Jack, thank you for posting this very important video. I have owned a ‘98 vfr800 (Honda, of course) for 6 years now. Today, I was going back on some vfr forums discussing important issues with overheating of the R/R from OEM stock. I had forgotten to mention that the previous owner had installed a computer fan on top of the r/r on this bike. I’m sure glad that I came across your video, here. I got it through your website. Not any other way. Have a wonderful weekend.

Thanks so much for the video! I never even noticed the casting marks, was close to getting ripped off of a fake one as it was being shipped from Germany so I almost believed them

Just purchased my FH020AA from Roadster cycle and it amazing quality 👌 I live in the UK 🇬🇧 and I'm so happy with my purchase Thank you Roadster Cycle ❤

Good to know. I got lucky buying a used one from a Yamaha r1 off Ebay, for my VT1100 Shadow. It works so much better then the stock Honda regulator. It runs a lot cooler and sends more power to the battery even at idle with all my accessories on! I'm going to buy one for my 1300 VTX too!!

Thanks Jack! All good useful information.

You helped me a lot. Hugs from Brasil.

Hi, thank you for the video. Do the numbers on the back besides the model number(FH020AA and then 2.7 or similar and a letter) mean anything or as long as the R/R is a FH020AA in particular it is good to go? Thank you.

Thanks for the heads-up.

From 🇬🇧 i thank you sir 🙏

and that"s why i ordered it from you guys :-) greetings from Belgium

Very informative. Much appreciated. Thank you so much

@Roadstercycle

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome. I am tired of people getting riffed off on Ebay and Amazon. f

@porraniihara

3 жыл бұрын

@@Roadstercycle Nice and thoughtful of u.

Hi Jack , I have 73 Norton commando positive earth , is it possible to hook this up with out changing the bike to neg earth ? if so is there instructions to do it correctly in your kit from your website . Cheers .

The back is not stainless steel. It's unobtainium. You can tell it's unobtainium because of the way it is.

Вроде у меня всё как вы написали и рассказали, ну на выходе + - регулятора без нагрузки 2 вольта всего а на входе с генератора каждая фаза на холостых по 25 вольт регулятор стоит на снегоходе это проблема с регулятором????

Anyone know if the SBT regulator/rectifiers are as good as the original Shindengens? I'm having a real hard time getting a genuine one.

Hi again is there anyway you could post the readings for forward and reverse bias tests of a geunine shindengen fh020aa , I got two from eBay that I believe check out , but during the forward bias of the postive terminal I’m getting 090 which I believe is .09 which is way off, and both are reading this way. Is it possible that the new lithium battery I bought doesn’t work because of the BMS on it? Or am I looking at two faulty regulators? I’m getting good continuity and resistance on my stator,.

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

On my website are the Mosfet tests on my help videos.

hiya jack i have a 2006 triumph daytona 955i witch mosfet would be the best one for my triumph i only have LED head lights and i ride it hard on track work .thanks jimmy

@Roadstercycle

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Jimmy, I would go with a SH847, it would give you a little more HP on the track and runs your stator cooler. Read my website for more info. Roadstercycle.com

hi just curious to know how, why, when one of these regulators gets broken. For example does it happen when a replacement battery is assembled swapping by mistake positive with negative? What happens inside when one such regulator is broken? is it possible to repair it by just opening it and replacing just one of its internal components? thx

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, I've only had 4 bad real FH020AA Regulators be bad in 12 years and I believe it was from reversing the battery cables. There's no way to open one up to replace anything inside as they are potted with a really hard type of plastic. I've tried to take one apart and it's a mess and you end up destroying components as they are so small and surface mount type. Waste of time and effort.

so i bought a bike with an FH010BA. I can't find this part no anywhere - has it been updated or is there a new corresponding unit?

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

I have not seen a FH010BA in years being sold. Look at your connectors and see if a FH020AA will plug in. That may be your only option now.

Hi Jack, u might know what kind are the Polaris Ranger 1000 R/R ? comparing mine to Sh847 it look nearly the same, i've also heard that they are Series one... can be?

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

The Polaris is most instances run a SH775. Iy is a 27 amp series R/R. I used to sell them until I got the SH847, never looked back after that since the SH775 had high RPM cutout issues.

@kashubelua

4 жыл бұрын

​@@Roadstercycle Great thanks for the reply, i will use it with a really modified low amp consummtion bike, an oldschool one with encased stator and LIFePO4 cell powered, all benefit! i wasn't completly sure but you are trustable, so i give u all credit. I ve also heard about sh775 eratic malfunction above 9000, so that would only impact in race bike condition i guess. there is an interesting video out there comparing the LED checking method of different R/R unit, pointing out that led checking is not standard now. Mine give 610 (a bit high) only with postive to negative RR and negative to all three RR stator imputs, so as a 847 shindengen. Nice work Jack.

can you please advise on with mosfet upgrade kit i will need for my Hyosung GV650 2008 Carby Model and if extra wiring and brackets will be needed. Thanks im advance. P.S... do you ship to Australia please?

@Roadstercycle

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, Yes I ship to Australia all the time. Just contact me through the website. Roadstercycle.com

i have FH020AA, all info which you told is same But my Shindengen back is not stainless steel - it is aluminium. So is my Shindengen fake?

@Roadstercycle

11 ай бұрын

Send me a picture of it to jack@roadstercycle.com

On Amazon, most of them are the fake ones. There are no casting marks at all and they don't show the back, so you can't see if it has the stainless steel back on them. I think there's maybe two that are actually the real deal on there and the price is higher, of course. So ya, do your home work. I got lucky with a used one off Ebay from an R1 Yamaha and it works so much better than my stock regulator did!

Is it safe to assume anything on eBay and Amazon for $40-50 is a knockoff? Looking for something genuine for a 2013 KTM 690 Enduro.

@Roadstercycle

Жыл бұрын

That is a yes. A lot adds say direct replacement but that only means it will plug in. Be Leary of eBay and Amazon cheap R/Rs, I've replaced hundreds for people over the years.

What do the letters mean? I have seen ones FH020 on BMWs with BA and CA. What's the reason for different letters?

@Roadstercycle

Жыл бұрын

From what I understand they are manufacture numbers, where, when, what factory.

I have a the regulator, but puzzled on how to connect this to the 2001 vfr800fi Or where to get what I need in the uk

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Hi James, You can get it from my website Roadstercycle.com where there is drawings and info for installing my kits. They are upgrade kits so you have to do a little work, it's easy though.

@prawny12009

5 ай бұрын

The plug on vfr has 2 lives, 2 earth's and a voltage sense wire. One live runs to the headlights the other via a fuse to the battery, you can either wire to the battery and loop the lives in the original plug or connect the regulator to both lives instead. The earth can again either go to the battery with the original earths joined and connected to the frame or battery via a ring terminal or connect the new wire to the original pair.

So which one to go for on my newly purchased (and first) 2001 VFR800 Fi?

@Roadstercycle

5 жыл бұрын

Stock lights and no race days the FH020AA will be the best way. If your going all LEDs and /or doing race days unplugging your headlights, then the SH847 is the only way to go.

@EVILSPAWN1003

5 жыл бұрын

@@Roadstercycle LED taillights,heated handlebars and an aftermarket gear indicator. No track days. Still SH847? Oh and do you do int`l shipping?

@Roadstercycle

5 жыл бұрын

@@EVILSPAWN1003 In that case the FH020AA would be fine. Just LED tailights don't change much. I ship all over the world. www.roadstercycle.com

@EVILSPAWN1003

5 жыл бұрын

@@Roadstercycle Great. Thanks

Is there a way to tell now as they look the same to me seems china have upped there game in copying ive been offerd one locally and this one seems different as in the sealant behind the plugs is gray not black but all looks same other than that

@Roadstercycle

29 күн бұрын

On my website are the FH020AA Mosfet R/R test procedure which will give you the numbers that will identify a real Shindengen Mosfet compared to fakes using a multimeter.

Sorry, but i'm still confused. Does the SH847 a MOSFET regulator or not, and HOW to buy that one model on ebay; is it possible or not? Thanks a lot.

@Roadstercycle

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, The SH847 does not have Mosfet transistors inside of it. It uses SCR diodes. I've never seen real SH847 sold on Ebay. The only place I know where to get real ones is at Roadstercycle.com or a Suzuki dealer.

@quars3528

2 жыл бұрын

@@Roadstercycle Thanks, i sent you a mail.....

Interesting info. Note the backing plate is aluminum NOT stainless. Aluminum has way better thermal conductivity than stainless steel; 235W/(m⋅K) vs. 15W/(m⋅K), respectively

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you, it's been noted a few times already, my mistake of course. It is polished so nicely I believed it to be stainless. It's also very interesting that if it's aluminum how does it stay perfectly shiny after years out in the rain and ocean areas without becoming nasty.

@rvfrick2355

4 жыл бұрын

@@Roadstercycle aluminum readily forms a very thin self-limiting protective layer of aluminum oxide when exposed to air. Aluminum foil for example, maintains its appearance due to its self-forming oxide layer. That is, it maintains it appearance for the most part in a kitchen environment. There are industrial finishing processes such as anodizing which electrically promote and form a thicker and more resiliant oxide layer. I don't know for certain but Shindegen may use this process in the manufacture of their R/Rs.

FWIW - copies now even have the stainless bottom now

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Yes you have to be careful. They are getting trickier. When you test a FH020AA Mosfet the numbers you get should be something close to 0, 0, 0 490, 490,490 0, 0, 0 118, 118, 118. Temperature make the numbers change a bit but they should be kinda in this ball park. If you get numbers that are very close to each other (not the zeroes) then they are pushing a normal SCR diode regulator not a Mosfet. That's from my experience. If you get all six numbers about the same value, then it's pretty much an SCR diode type 60s tech. I've never found or figured a way to check the SH775 or SH847 except on my bench test machine as they always read zeroes with a multimeter when they are good.

FH001 looks almost exactly like the FH020AA but doesnt have the stainless piece on the bottom, works just as good.... Yamaha Royal Stars & R1s from around 2001 & up.

Is an FH020 (not AA) a real model?

@Roadstercycle

2 жыл бұрын

I've never heard of one without the AA or BA marking

the back is not ss , it is alum.

@Roadstercycle

5 жыл бұрын

John, Thanks, I stand corrected, it may be aluminum, I'd swear it looks like stainless though. The fakes have aluminum now too but attached very shoddily, not perfectly clean like a real one.

I have a 2017 MT09 with the code FH020AA Would the MT07 part number SH821AA They look identical and also far cheaper on eBay for a used genuine unit Thanks

@Roadstercycle Hello Jack, I've sent you an email a few days ago. Could you please respond when available.

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, just found it again. Just forgot to respond as I saw it on my phone and it was a novel and did not have time to read it at that moment.

So which one of them is fake

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

All mine are real genuine Shindengen, compare them to the one you may be thinking of purchasing so you don't get ripped off.

4.30.20. I did a 1984 Honda GoldWing GL1200 engine removal for a friend who purchased the bike with the PM alternator not charging. It was not putting out any ac voltage on any of it’s three phases! The new stator was putting out 70vac @ 3k rpm between all three phases. I did some research and found out about the SH847 regulator an had my friend purchase it from Jack @ RoadsterCycle. It’s a lot of work installing a new stator In a four-cylinder gold wing, it’s also false economy to put back in a stock type regulator. I also bought a four-cylinder Gold wing and my Stator was putting out 70vac @ 3K RPMs, so I decided to spring for a SH 847 regulator also. If you own a bike that has a permanent magnet alternator then do yourself a favor and put one of these series type regulators in it instead of the shunt type. I highly recommend and suggest you purchase your regulators through Jack @ RoadsterCycle.

@Roadstercycle

4 жыл бұрын

Wow, Steven thanks. I try to help everyone with charging issues.

@stevensapyak7971

4 жыл бұрын

Roadstercycle 4.30.20. I only give out an endorsement to those people who actually deserve it and you sir most certainly deserve it! You wear your honesty on your sleeve and you obviously show your passion for what you do! I have a background in industrial electrical instrumentation work, I have a three year apprenticeship with schooling at a local college 38 years ago. So I know the real deal when I see it. You deliver value plain and simple.

Even the knock offs from china, still look exactly the same.