FINALLY RELEASE THE FILES!! You can find all the files I designed for this build available on my Thangs page now: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally

@SHOLAR_RACING

3 ай бұрын

Do you have the files for the toolhead? I’m getting ready to do the mercury 1 on my ender 5 plus and I’m going to be using the orbiter 2.0 with the revo quick change. Thanks for any insight

Now that the hype for Bambu style printers is settling down and with more access to high speed multi material printers, I love seeing pimping older printers. It feels like modding cars or computers. Honestly, this build looks great. I really enjoyed the video 👏🏻

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

Honestly at ERRF this weekend some folks and I were talking, I likened printing to cars. We will see a lot of people moving forward happy with their Civics, while some of us will keep on buildinghotrods.

@05Petedriver

7 ай бұрын

Exactly the sentiment I expressed the other day on a FB group. Someone was whining about people "wasting their money modding their printers, just go buy a Bambu" on an Ender 3 page. I told them to think about it like buying a Camry or building a hotrod or kit car. That for some folks it's about the building.

@granthultman2914

5 ай бұрын

@@05Petedriver As a Voron fan boy I compare myself to being one of those people who builds tiny ships inside bottles... it's not for everyone but it's my hobby! Cool video!

Awesome Job. I had that same extremely slow response problem with my 5+ - Mercury 1.1 conversion with a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo and Pi4. On occasion I got a low voltage warning and also a throttling warning. It seemed to be a problem with this Pi4 that I bought new. I tried everything to fix it. I switched it out with the Pi4 on my Ender 6. The problem followed the Pi to my 6. I tried a new class 10 MicroSd card. Fresh install of rasbian-lite / Mainsail. Multiple power adaptors. Powering it through the USB-C. I even bought the Meanwell RS25-5 110vac to 5vdc power supply just like yours. I this time tried powering through the GPIO pins. Same problem. I tested the output and it was exactly 5.0 volts. I found a thread on reddit where someone was having the same problem. The only thing that fixed it for them was to increase the supplied voltage to 5.7 volts. The Pi4 is rated for up to 5.5 volts so this person was pushing it a bit. Supposedly 5.5 volts did not cure the problem but 5.7 did. I turned my voltage on my Meanwell RS25-5 to 5.6 volts and it runs perfect now. Nice and snappy like my other Pi4. I'm not sure why this one seems to need a little more voltage but I figured I had nothing to lose as it just wasn't any fun when it was taking forever to respond to any input. I agree on the EVA 2.4 not being the most appealing tool head. I found the EVA 3.0 to be quite a bit more eye pleasing. There's a special version of the EVA 3.0 customised for the Mercury 1. jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/ Any chance you will be sharing any of your designed parts? I'm mostly interested in the Z chain setup assuming it would work with the stock 5 plus bed. Thank You for all your content and help.

@Duckferd

10 ай бұрын

5.7 might be ok depending on the length of wire, because there is also voltage droop (you would have to test voltage output at the end of the cable).

@riktanius

9 ай бұрын

I am using the E34M1 and it is great. The setup is really fleshed out and includes ABL options for nearly every option out there. Highly recommended. I also am hoping to see those parts out there, as I am building out another M1 and would love to reinforce my machine.

@217RockStar217

6 ай бұрын

Thank you SOOO much for that link!!!

I love the "it's so reliable let's tear it apart" lol

Fantastic build and video. Still loving the new focus on longer videos. Always a great watch. Thanks, man!!

How convenient, I just finished my Mercury One build a couple days ago. Was going to do the serial request today or tomorrow. I love the Mercury One.1 and Hydra Mod, and since it was my first DIY build it'll always hold a special place in my heart

I have an Ender 5 Pro with a Microswiss Direct Drive/All metal hotend, but haven't used for a couple of years. I dusted it off, added a Sonicpad and had a horrible time even getting it to extrude right. Got mad and bought an X1 Carbon. But I don't want to throw the Ender 5 Pro out. This is inspiring me to build it up as a Mercury One.1, especially now I have a reliable printer to print the parts for it!

Wow. Super nice and clean setup! Video came just in time! I am going to do the Mercury one.1 mod on my ender 5 plus as well! Inspired to do it!! Love your contents! Awesome job! 🎉

Machines looks great! Can't wait to see future videos on it!

Excellent work! Cannot wait to see your follow-up video.

It's beautiful! I enjoy these build videos, keep em coming.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

Thank you very much. Glad the suffering is worth it. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

I have always struggled to see a use for multicolor prints because I am not very interested in printing figurines but I can admit it looks vastly better with the black accents versus how I imagine it would be with only the pink you chose. A+ grade on your modded parts too, I can only imagine the hours in F360 that are behind those little touches. Awesome Vid.

@Duraltia

9 ай бұрын

Single Tool Head 3D Printers with MMU capability are not just handy for Multicolored 3D Prints but are also a boon when it comes to 3D printing parts that require Supports as they allow you to print the _Support Interface Layer_ ( the last 1-2 Layers between the Supports and the actual Part ) with a compatible but different secondary Material that will still _stick_ to primary Material used for both the Supports *_AND_* the actual Print but will not _bond_ to it even when used without the usual 1 layer clearance Gap thus resulting in decently smooth finishes on the Underside and by _only_ printing the SIL with a different material you'll omit the need of constant and very time intensive material Swaps ( not a concern for an IDEX but that's a different story ) until you reach the layer where you actually need it.

@richpaul6806

9 ай бұрын

As the other commenter pointed out, it can be very handy for support material. Another use would be to have text in a contrasting color. I plan to print out some trays soon and I would like to label them so I know what is in each one. Without multiple colors, the text would be nearly impossible to read. I could use some nail polish or paint on the raised text but the second material will not wear off over time.

Dude this thing is mega, nice job man! I really liked the color and that wiring job is on point!

You just gotta love the 100% plug'n'play nature of the Duet hardware with their superior canbus (can FD) protocol on the LC-1 toolboard

Was looking forward to this!! Thank you!

Beautiful build!

Hey Mandic you did a really nice build, I like a lot of the color you used, I build my with almost the same part the Revo Six, Orbiter V2.0, Manta M8P with CANBus and hydra the only think is I have to used the same heater bed due to Fabreeko don’t have that bed plate for months a been looking in the page and always said out of stock, your were lucky to get one. I like the combination you use for the Z Endstop and bed level with Knick’s. I like to see future video above the programming and the fine tune made on it. Great video keep post more about this build.

Love the pink one! I got my Mercury one.1 for at least 2 months now. For now with other 13 printers on top. Mercury one.1 is my favorite.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

I’m excited to use it and give it a thorough run, but my initial impressions are super positive.

FYI, the SKR 3 EZ has an onboard IC that supplies 5V at a high enough current to power a raspberry pi. Just tap into any free 5V pin on the board (like on the EXP ports, or WiFi adapter, detection ports, etc) and your pi will be powered automatically once you turn it on. No need for a separate PSU! I’m doing that on my build and it works perfectly.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

I'll use the 5v rail on the board for LED strips at some point on this build. I tried using the EXP port for UART connection to the Pi on ReAniMaker and had no luck at all with it, so I didn't even start down that path this time.

@fgil45

6 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally Clean DC for each device separately is much better, for me, in audio it is very noticeable

Grate wiring, can't imagine how long it took to make it look so nice! I had similar CAN issues and just switching over canboot solved this problem instantly, also klipper build version have to be the same for both motherboard and toolhead boar, over all I agree that documentation for CAN could be better. For response time have you tried running UART instead on USB between RPI and BTT, I see you have screen connected via GPIO pins and per expirinace I know it might be occupying the UART pins but if not Id try that, if not you can also try different cable let say if you use USB2 try USB3 and opposite with correlated ports. Good luck with that build hope to see finished version of it as it's looks amazing.

love the color choices! I actually made my Voron 2.4 (350mm) and MPCNC to be Hot pink. One of my favorite colors!

really nice Video, gave me some ideas for my own Project ! Keep up the nice work :)

Damn , I get so motivated to push my builds further after watching this.

The cable management is insane! Would really love to see a video tutorial about how you did them.

That is a beautiful build, sir. Excellent work!! I contemplated doing this with an Ender 5 Plus.. that I sold. Maybe another day.

Great machine! It was nice to meet you at ERRF.

Love that inverted electronics bay. Been wanting to do it on my Trident

This was a great video! Inspires me to spend more time on my printer!

Nice build!🍻

Man, that looks awesome👍👍. about 19:08 you talked about the wiring. Great wiring looms. So tell us, how many zip ties did you go through all because of that sneaky little wire you didn't see when you made the ties🤣🤣

@MandicReally

5 ай бұрын

100+ 🤣🤣🤣

I really want to see an enclosure built for it like how people have made a P1P companion cube etc

Late to the party but klipper feeling slow on this machine might be due to a slow microSD card. I had that problem and once I got a fast microSD the Sandisk Ultra or something, the golden ones, it's as fast as it gets.

Do a update video and post some of the links to the parts you used.....I so bad want to see this finished

Would love to see a video on the beds. I was looking at getting one for my E5+ but wasn't sure if it's worth the cost. A detailed video of the differences and benefits would be great for everyone.

Great build.

Trinamic drivers shouldn't have trouble with cooling in their normal lay down StepStick configuration. This is because the IC die is bonded to a thermal pad at the bottom of the IC enclosure, and then soldered and via stitched to the "back" side of the PCB, so that's copper and tin channels, which is the top side, where the heatsink is attached, so thermal impedance of the heatsink connection is fairly low. On the top side of the IC, bottom side of the StepStick board, the IC is covered with an enclosure made of black epoxy which doesn't allow much cooling, very high thermal impedance. A large heatsink doesn't exactly go to waste. I know it looks weird and inefficient heatsinking the IC like that through the opposite side of glass fibre plastic PCB, but it is really an engineered in solution and performs heaps better than it looks. Indeed the intended use is worse, with cooling just into some large PCB planes. Still, i prefer to have some airflow through underneath the drivers, just a little bit. Even just convection airflow. I'm not too picky about it.

The exact video my Ender 5 plus needed made. Bravo

Pink and black, like it!

I would love to see more on the Orbitor with the revo. I recently put a revo cr on my ender 3v2, and have been thinking about an orbitor extruder for it. honestly a video explaining how the canbus works and the works would be amazing! thank you!!

@MandicReally

8 ай бұрын

I run a Revo CR & Orbiter V1.5 on my original Ender 3. I showed it on my Revo CR review. kzread.info/dash/bejne/pomTl8ydmNjRdcY.htmlsi=iEpeMtj0ntf3Vi8N I doubt I’ll have a chance to do a canbus video. It’s a complicated topic to explain in a non-dry manner, and videos like that result in me becoming tech support for the entire audience. Which just doesn’t work out well. Sorry. Quite a few folks have covered it pretty well and companies are working to improve it all the time. Hopefully someone updates it soon to be easier and I can justify that.

The CAN bus is designed to be highly immune to interference. So the extra shielding is not all that needed. Certainly doesn't hurt. If anything it would help reduce EMI from the printer itself to the outside world.

@MandicReally

2 ай бұрын

CAN Bus is only as immune to interference as the quality of its cable, twist on the cable, and shielding it has. Nothing, to my knowledge, in the signal is particularly designed to handle noise. That's why cables like this exist. The one I used is specifically for moving components running CAN Bus communication. When I worked on cars the CAN harnesses were twisted & shield with grounding along their run. If anything they are MORE susceptible to EMI than any other signal wires on a 3D printer. In the design of CAN systems it is common to NOT run the Power Delivery along side the Signal Leads, as that is the most likely way EMI will be introduced. We cannot avoid that on 3D printers, so we have to mitigate how we can.

@jeffm2787

2 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally So they are not immune to common mode noise?

Cant wait for a Compair and contrast between this and Bambu Lab X1. Print quality and speed wise. I know this rig is best for large bed.

Why pins + toothed idlers isn't standard for every printer ever still baffles me. Just upgraded my voron using them and the build process is much simpler than fiddling the screws.

Dude those corner brackets......i need those. Plz kind sir.

dude your videos are great. keep it up

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

Thank you very much, we are working on the exact formula moving forward but won't be stopping videos for sure.

This video is awesome thank you. I have been using it as my benchmark for upgrading my ender 5 plus to core xy my only question is can you provide a link to your modded part prints I really like the beefed up belt adjustment and the LED mods you did to the EVA.

Amazing mod! Love the colours dude. So well done.

I’ve been waiting so long for this video!

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

Me too. 😅😅😅 Started this project wayyy too long ago.

I usually don’t love pink but the light pink and black theme looks really nice.

Hey, I just saw you a few hours ago at ERRF! Didn’t get to chat with you, first time I walked by you were mobbed and the second time you were chowing down on a big bowl of noodles or something, definitely didn’t want to interrupt that 😁

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

Hope you had a good time at the show at least. Thanks for letting me chom a bit. 😂

I'm using the U2C and the EBB36 on my Voron Trident and I like the combination.

Hi there .. i want to buy a CoreXY 14” cube volume printer, modern speed no record breaking intended Im up in line for the Prusa XL (after 2 years) but apparently its not what people was expecting therefore I’m not going through with that .. what would u recommend ? Thanks

Just got finished(well I wouldn't say finished but its printing) with my merc 1 build. I love what you have done with yours. I like your design for the z cable chain and wago mount. Are those available for download?

@Ricjamz

8 ай бұрын

Ditto

anywhere to find the cable chain mount for the Z axis?

I’m wandering how big is the penalty of keeping x motor on the gantry while upgrading everything else. I feel like difference would be not as big as people think.

the slow commands are due to the pink long frequency. Try blue it's shorter.

To start with, that thing looks dope. But what's even left of that ender 5, extrusions and a bed mount? Second, are the slow commands only related to thing on the toolhead? Because if that is so, the toolhead can board might be bad, and not the main- or can adapter board. Also, ModBot already did a video on thermistor vs actual bed temps recently, but he focused on that there is a difference. Maybe you can look into methods to work around it?

@MidMadn

10 ай бұрын

I had the same problem and I wasn't even using CAN. I am now and the problem was there before and also after. Only thing that got rid of it was increasing the voltage from 5.0 volts to 5.6volts.

@Idiot_Engineering

10 ай бұрын

@@MidMadn Who's voltage? the Pi's? 'cause if so, damn, that's out of spec.

25:05 that Z homing is so smart omg

The synthwave was a very nice touch, man.

I’m liking that display mount.. I’d like to drop it on my ratrig v-core! Klipper screen has documentation on rotation.

@MandicReally

4 ай бұрын

Those files you asked about are FINALLY on my Thangs page: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally

Any fix for the slow klipper instance? my ratrig is horible like that!

Have you posted those brackets anywhere or could i get your stls for them? i really want to relocate my front bar

@MandicReally so I have an Enders 5 plus and I want to build it up like your E5+ before the rebuild. Do you have links to your parts? Thanks in advance for the help.

Are your designs available for download by any chance?

There is a din rail fan mount. It's for the octopus but works for anything. Also there is a mod by a discord member for a z end stop switch. I personally feel the hotend cooling fan is super over kill.

god bless this video, this going to help me a ton

Great job Alan, really like the build! One FYI, from a guy with a half-built Mercury 1.1: if you gut the Z-axis and get rid of that entire smooth-rod infrastructure, you can move the bed around in the frame, front-to-back, and get more build area. I replaced mine with a mish-mash of 3d-printed parts, and some modifications of other parts from the Voron world. I'm able to do 360*360 on the X/Y now. I'm still going to end with a dual-Z bed, but I personally don't think the Hydra, or any 3-point system, is worth the hassle, but that's just IMO.

@riktanius

9 ай бұрын

can you show what you have done? Do you have a build log somewhere? I am curious

@bartacus3521

9 ай бұрын

@@riktanius No sir I don't, it's gathering dust ATM. Got too busy with other stuff.

I'm experiencing same klipperscreen rotation problem on Bullseye. Using old stable Buster image solved this for me.

For the laggy Pi4 - Switch to something like a Sandisk Ultra Fit and change the boot method to USB (Available in the Pi Imager). Micro SD cards are garbage for running an OS, which could be the problem. Second, does that Pi have a heatsink on the chip and a fan to cool it? If not, then I would consider adding those as your build plate is heating up the surrounding air, and may be causing the processor to slow down due to high temps.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

Heat sinks on the chip, memory, & usb controller and a 40mm fan constantly blowing directly on the board. The Pi runs cool even with the bed hot. I run my 2.4 off a SSD via USB, but almost all of my other machines run off SD Cards without issue. Some off this exact same model SD card. 🤷🏻🤷🏻

@kieran977

10 ай бұрын

+1 for checking the SD card, or at least doing some diagnostics to check its read and write speed

@ollierinko9387

9 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally Could just be a case of a monday-model SD Card. But, the best option would still be to run an SSD over USB. Or better yet, swap to something like a Banana Pi and use an m.2 nvme drive.

Hi Alan, Any possibility to buy some of the STL you made for this build? Thanks!

Is there an enclosure that is compatible with a Mercury 1.1 conversion?

Hi there and Merry Xmas... Having a voron was always a dream for me and that why I ended getting an ender 5 plus (thinking once things more stable mod wise I would upgrade it) I have upgraded the hotend to a microswiss and twice got cables out to fix issues (that to let you understand my basic level) Do you think such an upgrade is something of my skills? Are there any complete upgrade kits that would turn my ender like yours ? If so which? Thanks again and keep the good work!

Hi, could you share your ideas and models for cable management please? Also if i could ask to explain wireing for this build sińce there is literały no info about on ZeroG website about wireing :/

Besides the frame braces, Eva, and the zero-g files, what are you willing to share? I have the 7” touchscreen that I’d love to modify your 5” mount and make it fit. I’m already running a modified stealthburner and a front mounted rail on the X gantry. I also re-did the skirt to house fans, if you’re interested.

This looks amazing man.. I've seen a few Ender 5s for sale around my area, some pretty cheap. If this is a reasonably priced upgrade cost, it might be worth the pickup. Your videos are cool man. Learning a lot. Are all those awesome accent pieces available somewhere? All those parts you made yourself?

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

The accent pieces are my own designs, I have not yet released them. I need to clean up the files a bit when I can make some time. Hopefully sooner rather than later they will be available. My corner braces are available now on thangs: than.gs/m/22154

I'd love to do one of these but used ender 5s go for too much in my area. Is there an "official" BOM for the parts required in addition to the kit for those of us considering building this as a "scratch built" new printer? I'm not afraid of cutting, drilling, and tapping.

beautiful build!! Can you tell me the link of pink fillament polylite-ABS?

Isn't the delay the command buffer at the controller, not klipper? At least that's what I think the delay is between octoprint/serial and marlin. Designed my own corexy from scratch. Wish I would have bought a pre built but at least I can say I made my own 3d printer 😂. Not going to lie, I'm jealous 😅

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

Octoprint / Marlin works in an entirely different way than Klipper does. Klipper processes the G-Code on the Pi, so the parsing of commands is quicker. The MCU is just a pass through for I/O. So the commands are not processed by the controller but rather by the Pi. This SHOULD eliminate that bottleneck, but it could be an issue in some odd way all the same. I cannot eliminate that issue but it should not be an issue with Klipper.

@naps1saps

9 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally oh yeah I do remember that. I tried implementing klipper but wanted 2 instances for 2 printers and couldn't get it to work as docker instances with serial connections and gave up.

ps. would u choose thise over a voron 2.4?

Response time - what is bandwidth? Also check USB cable -i have problem when using my ender 3 with klipper, very slow reaction -change bandwith and usb cable help

@MandicReally

6 ай бұрын

1,000,000 and same USB cable I order for a lot of my installs. Running the same one to a U2C on my 2.4. Gonna recompile and setup fresh soon. Then maybe switch to USB operation of the EBB36.

That flow rate is wild

Funny coincidence. I've been looking at doing this exact mod to my Ender 5 plus. Did you also "investigate" the Zero G Hydra 3 point conversion? I would really like your take on that too. Love the way you present your results and experience, by the way.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

I didn’t have any interest in the hydra at the onset as I intended to build a rear electronics enclosure. But after I switched away from that I’m quite tempted to do the Hydra. That said, I haven’t done anything with it and don’t have the parts to say anything about it.

@joseholguin436

10 ай бұрын

I converted mine to this one, and then decided to take it one step further and modded the kinematic bed from the rat rig, and the XY system and hotend form the vzbot AWD! It's a monster!

@jacobmurray3621

10 ай бұрын

⁠@@joseholguin436do you have any of the mods for the rat rig uploaded? I was planning on doing something similar eventually wanna do a tool changer. They are working on attaching a VZbot Goliath Hotend to one as well.

@MidMadn

10 ай бұрын

I personally find the stock Creality 5+ Z system to be stable and consistent as long as you have separate drivers on the Z motors so you can take advantage of Z-Tilt. I have no desire for the Hydra mod. If it was a regular Ender 5 or 5 pro with the cantilever bed - I would be all over the Hydra. @@MandicReally

Would you mind sharing your config files for this build im work on a very similar build with my ender 5 plus

@MandicReally can you post the kipper config files?

Hi I hope I can help you I have been in the same boat with my btt tft v 24 I v tried to rotate in to portrait mode gave up like 5 times and than I found on a forum that to rotate it you have to recompile the firmware in portrait mode (there should be a repo for that on btt) and you have to put a text file on the sd card or whatever you try to flash the firmware with the title reset.txt this will hard reset the firmware so the touch screen should work, at least for me it did. Btw great work there it looks amazing 🤘

The screen might be interfering with processing on the board, i had a pitft50 with 4g rpi4 and the wifi would not work with them bolted together, emi could be the problem

worth a try: last time i had poor raspi performance ended up being a badly binned SD card. easy test if you have a spare floating around.

If that screen is like the 7" Raspberry Pi touch screen. Inside your /boot/config.txt you need to set the rotation. The hang up is it is not "display_rotate=1", it will be "lcd_rotate=1" as it is coming out of the display flat ribbon and not the HDMI. Additionally for the 7" Raspberry Pi screen, you have to comment out the "dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d" section. Otherwise the touch screen does not work when rotated. Fingers crossed it's just a simple setting issue.

Out of curiosity, did you post the corner braces, your build is quite nice.. I have a couple of these, was thinking about doing them the same.. did you ever get the lcd to properly go portrait?

@MandicReally

3 ай бұрын

All of my files are on my Thangs page: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally The screen I have not rotated yet, ha. It is still that way. I'm going to try and revisit this sometime soon and see if we cannot correct that on a stream or something.

Nice job! I just did this conversion myself, actually. You wouldn't by any chance be willing to share your corner braces would you? I would love to remove the front bar for the same reasons. Thanks in advance.

@MandicReally

10 ай бұрын

Yes, those are available on my thangs page: than.gs/m/22154 I’ve yet to test the effect of the removed bar. I have an add-on that puts a bar down lower and out of the way, I’ll test that Vs no bar for the next installation of this series.

@Armor3dprinting

10 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally youre awesome, thanks!

One thing to add E5Ps is backlash nuts on the z screws, I added some POM ones and Z tilt adjust in Klipper takes maybe a single attempt before its done, the brass ones wobbled terribly and drifted on power offs

@MandicReally

4 ай бұрын

I didn't draw attention to it, but I did install some POM Anti-Backlash nuts, you can see them at 25:38

@afkafkafk

4 ай бұрын

@@MandicReallyperfect, your build is basically perfect

@afkafkafk

4 ай бұрын

@@MandicReallyHave you had any belt grinding issues on your build, I built mine ages ago but been having issues with belts riding up on the pulleys and shredding my gates belt

@MandicReally

4 ай бұрын

@@afkafkafk No issues for me. I'm fairly sure somewhere along the line they improved belt alignment as one of the design updates before it came out of Beta.

What spool holder are you using? Did you design it?

Hello, maybe you have files for printing this model somewhere

for the orbiter v2 i believe there was 2 versions 1 for .35 amps 1 for .85 amps but i could be wrong. not that it cant be a bad motor but also could be that :)

How did you wire the orbiter runout sensor on the ebb36? Thinking about making this upgrade for myself.

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

It wires to the I2C port on the EBB36. I’m having trouble finding the info I used to wire it But the I2C has 5v, Gnd & 2 signal pins you can use for the unload command button / sensor signal.

Any chance you will be releasing the corner plates?

I've got a pi 4b on my Klipper, and I've noticed that the emergency stop is *instant* but sending any other command to it, like 'cancel_print' will take a while. I've been assuming that it's still running a *ton* of commands that have already been sent, and it has to get through that queue before my command takes effect. This is probably less of a problem on a slower controller because there would be fewer commands in the queue. That's my pet theory, though.

Great video. I was hoping you would show compiling thr firmware.

@MandicReally

9 ай бұрын

Klipper compiling is really straight forward, but tedious enough that it would big down any video it’s included in unfortunately.

@tacodorifto

9 ай бұрын

@@MandicReally i started reading more on the project and realized its clipper. Im good with everything else but firmware. Great video. Ive now watched a few. Ive learned a few things from you. Im rewiring a cr10max and i used silicone wires. So i guess im gonna have to redoit To ptfe.

Would you share the link for the z chain mount.

Hi Mandic, thank you for making this video. You inspired me to do this conversion as well on a used Ender 5 Plus I got for cheap. Would you be able to share the vector file of the electronics cover that you made? I'd like to make a cover as well to protect myself from the electronics, thank you so much !

@MandicReally

6 ай бұрын

The zero-g team has files for the electronics box panels. I just made ones with my own laser that I could only fit a certain size of material in. If you order from someone like sendcutsend, they won’t have that restriction and the Zero-G panels will do well.

I had the same issue with portrait orientation. There is a code you can add to the config.txt in the boot folder on the Raspberry Pi that sets up the touch screen orientation as touch matrix is completely separate to the screen orientation. I can't remember the code off the top of my head now, but it was somewhere on the Raspberry Pi official website.