*UPDATE* - Max Off-Grid Charging Amps Test (Solar + Generator + Alternator) - kzread.info/dash/bejne/gKhnpaluocisZdI.html Wireless On/Off Switch Install - www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/ Shop the Renogy Website Via the LYRV Affiliate Link - renogy.sjv.io/KedOJ9 Renogy 40A DC-DC Charger on Amazon - amzn.to/2I5WgJP

Whilst some may give you stick about the drawing, it's content is perfectly to the point and is stylistically representative of my level of ability to understand this stuff!!! Bravo!

This was exactly the video I was looking for. We recently took a trip in our travel trailer and I noticed the truck would not charge my 2 AGM's while driving even though it would show an increase in voltage through the 7-way. After some research I found I needed a DC to DC charger to get the amps needed to charge my house batteries, and your video simplified the installation for me. The connection between the truck and trailer is where I was stumped. Anderson connectors, why didn't I think of that? LOL Thank you!

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome, you should see a big improvement on charging, cheers, Ray

I have learned a lot from you over the years. I use this DC to DC smart charger in my Class B. I used to have the EcoTrek system, but I had it totally removed, and I use Renogy lithium's with this Renogy smart charger.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Cool, thanks for the feedback. I've had good luck with the Renogy panels over the years. Price was pretty good for the charger compared to others on the market. Cheers, Ray

After carefully reviewing your sophisticated drawing I have come a fairly concrete observation. You need bigger TIRES! LOL All your problems would be solved!

@emersonkk33

4 жыл бұрын

LOL. I was thinking the same thing!

@jon.landry47

4 жыл бұрын

Those tires remind me of the “Kilroy was here” cartoon from WWII. And, no, I’m not that old.

@kharicoen7962

3 жыл бұрын

not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can watch all the new movies on instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend these days =)

@maddoxdrew3810

3 жыл бұрын

@Khari Coen yup, have been using Instaflixxer for since november myself =)

@mattinthehat22

3 жыл бұрын

Never seen a pickup with a 1:1 ring&pinion setup rofl

Really excellent, comprehensive video. Thanks! I picked up some tips on terminal fuses and breakers in this--much appreciated.

thanks again...looking forward to long term report.

Much better choice in connectors. Very good upgrade!

Thank you Ray That's a nice clean install!

So awesome! Just subbed. Great info to be had in this video and also I was asking about Anderson connections to the truck bed and low and behold I just saw yours! 2 birds with one stone. I’m here to stay.

Thanks for this very well done video. I really liked the parts where you showed the actual amperage on your meter and amperage on the other info display. I used the same dc to dc charger, 4awg cable and anderson connectors but I was able to run the feed from the Anderson inside the 5th wheel overhang to the dc to dc charger mounted inside that front compartment. I also used a chassis ground like you did and when the lithiums were low on power, the amp meter showed 39.7 amps. FYI, I have the same truck and same clampon meter. That meter is a mini but the amp jaws can still open just enough to go on a 4/0 cable!

Yet another extremely well-presented tutorial. Thank you

Hi Ray, seeing your drawing of the truck and trailer all I could think about was that theme song to the Flint Stones.... Lol

great system. a outher tip i used on a install was a voltage controlled relay tp turn on DC/DC charger trigger wire. set around 13.8V That way if alternator fails or engine stop no draw from start battery. newer trucks and cars use the computer to off set the voltage regulator using temp/time load etc. and is set for a start battery for long life. my ford came with 2 battery's and 2 alternators.

This makes a lot of sense and would be a great addition to a solar setup. I'll refer the Renogy Charger to the solar pros who will be installing and/or upgrading my RV system. Thank you!

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome, just make sure you're alternator can handle the extra load. Cheers! Ray

@HSkyler

4 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Thanks for the advice. If you have a few minutes check out Loloho's new video on a solar set-up. It includes the Renogy Charger. Very helpful information - for me to give to the solar experts! I'm not a DIY person when it comes to electricity. I just like to get a grasp of what I'm paying for. :-)

@fishhuntadventure

4 жыл бұрын

HSkyler Paying experts.... get references from people doing what you’re wanting to do. I worked for trailer place for a while. Behind the scenes proof of what I’ve always said: paying someone to install something so it works (even if the install “looks” good) is entirely different than getting it done well or properly. I can’t believe stuff I’ve seen people willing to pay for over the years! They just don’t know. They trusted an expert.

Thank you for another great video Ray. I always learn something from your videos. 👍🏻

*UPDATE* Max Off-Grid Charging Amps Test (Solar + Generator + Alternator) - kzread.info/dash/bejne/gKhnpaluocisZdI.html I test how much amperage I can pour into my 315AH Lion Energy lithium battery bank at if I combine my 30 amp solar controller with a 60 amp Intelipower charge converter and my new 40 amp Renogy DC-DC charger. The battery bank was at a 50% state of charge during the test and all chargers were set to 14.4V. In this informal test, it came out to right around 100 amps with all charging at the same time and around 85 amps with the generator and DC-DC charger from the truck alternator combined. All and all not bad. See the previous video where I tested out using a Bogart SC2030 solar charge controller as a DC-DC charger via a temporary cobbled together setup - www.loveyourrv.com/alternator-charging-mod-12-vdc-truck-bed-high-amp-power-port/

@ScubaSteveCanada

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Ray, in my Class B, I can charge my LiFePO4 batteries up 60A via the alternator, even at idle!! Comes in very handy during inclement weather (normally use solar). The BMS splits the 60A to 30A per battery. Current slowly tapers off as they charge up to 100%. Much better than running my noisy Onan generator. Between solar and engine idling, I haven't used my generator (boondocking since November 1).

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Joe, the whole point of the DC-DC charger is to isolate and properly charge the house batteries. The Renogy has a setting to use it with lithium type. As far as it goes the Renogy is one of the most affordable out there. Yes, spending a bit extra on diesel but saving it on the portable generator gas. Which is more efficient I don't know that would be an interesting test, but I know its a pain to haul out the portable genny, especially if the weather sucks. ;)

Charge while you drive? Makes a lot of sense sir. Thank you for your help. Have a great week.

Great video Ray, love all the info you share and hope to update my trailer soon.

That's the charger I use. It not only charges my batteries while I drive but I can also charge my e bike or other electronics while I drive and when I land everything is fully charged. LOVE IT. I almost never use my solar panels now.

👍👍👍 Timely video. I just ordered this same charger a week ago and waiting for it to arrive. As usual for you, this an excellent and very thorough video. Thank you for sharing👍👍👍. Happy trsils‼️

watched 4 dc to dc videos before this one. WOW everything i needed to know right here, filled my amazon cart as well thank you

@LoveYourRV

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. :)

@billhackley3540

2 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV one thing took a few rewinds to catch you mention grounding at the (pickup) frame. is that still working out, worried about issues down the road

@LoveYourRV

2 жыл бұрын

@@billhackley3540 No problem so far. It saved me the cost and hassle of a run of wire on the negative return. My trailer manufacturer uses frame 12V battery grounds for the same reason and I've had it for over ten years with no issues. Every few years I clean and retighten them. The truck manufacturer obviously also has the frame connected to the batteries or else my frame return wouldn't work. I think the big concern would be the type of vehicle and its construction. Some these days have very little metal in the frames or are not completely connected, but my pickup truck uses large steel beams running the length of the truck.

@billhackley3540

2 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV thank you i'll do the same, have spent a fair amount on lithium and low frequency inverter charger, have a fair amount in amazon still you've been very helpful. just got started in march with no experience

love it, this dc to dc charger sava us a lot of generator runing time..

At the end of the day I did run a full negative from the battery to the Andersen connector. I had the wire and said “what the heck”. Thanks for the feedback.

very well done, exactly the setup I'm looking for, you just earned a subscriber

The trailer we just bought has 3-100Ah Lithiums, 600 watts of solar and has the same Renogy DC-Dc charger so this video will be helpful wiring up my 06 Ram. Last time I wired solar etc was over 10 years ago and I used a Trimetric. (Think I'll use Victron in thhis new one) I noticed Bogart has a phone app now? That's pretty handy to be able to sit in the cab of your truck and monitor your RV batteries. Hope the Victron has that range. Also it's pretty cool you answer practically every comment, even when they ask the same questions over and over. 😉

Very helpful video, I am getting ready to instal 20a Renogy just like this.

Love the production of your video. I have a Pilgrim 5th. wheel and a dodge ram diesel on the hook. I built a very similar system with same type of parts about 2 years ago. Wish I had seen your video, before racking my brains out to make this system. I still do not have a solar system, because I find that in northern Alberta we do not get enough sun to make a huge difference and warrant the input cost. But, I do have a installed generator for extended dry camping. Now, I am building a large out-put Lifepo4 battery bank, Great video, keep up the great informative work. Good health and rving. Dave

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I recently added a wireless on-off mod to my setup www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/ Cheers, Ray

Thanks for the video Ray, I have been considering the same add to our RV; we dont have solar but also dont like to run the fridge on propane while in transit. Would be great to get to camp with full batteries!

Wow , good presentation Ray.

I put a off on switch that lights up when on. If you forget to shut it off , the lithium batteries will drain your start fry and that’s why I carry a Norco jump box when I have my camper on my dullay .

Thanks so much for this comprehensive video and list of components. It's very much appreciated.

@LoveYourRV

8 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

That mod is fantastic. Okay, on your daily brainstorming which I presume might come to you at night in a revelation *lol* how about figuring a way to evaporate water into your fresh water hold tank. Great job Ray love it.

@marysuetells9173

4 жыл бұрын

Use a dehumidifyer. It works!

@rhondaanderson2764

3 жыл бұрын

...condense water... 😏

What a smokin' mod (well, actually I hope not 'cause smoke would be bad, lol)!

Hi Ray! Safe travels!!

Thank You, you answered an important question for me…. I just received this DC to DC charger that I ordered, but then this week saw a video of a new version that has dual input for alternator and solar……so I was unsure how to couple this unit with solar, but you showed that you can couple them at the battery bank…..I was worried about reverse current shorting out the solar panels when the alternator or generator current started……thanks for easing my mind

Great stuff. You doing good. Wishing you and all forever safe travels. 🌟🙏🚐🌎

I really like the idea of the breaker up front and the quick disconnect between truck & trailer. Nice install. Ima go this way instead of the all-in-one from renogy bc I'm pretty sure my panels will be in series with too much voltage

@Roy-ij1wq

Жыл бұрын

Some users have experienced problems with the breakers overheating and tripping when they are mounted in the engine compartment. This is why I went with a fuse block and on/off switch.

Great video Ray!

❤Thanks for detailed info, links for purchase, and beautiful video

you are super good Ray, thanks. William in Montana.

Hi Ray - I did basically the same with an isolator & breaker from Hellroaring Technologies. Per their recommendation I ran 8 ga wire & have an Anderson Connector mounted next to my 7 pin connector under the bumper. The other half of the connector is wired thru a marine fuse (saw them on your rig) running to my single 200aH AGM battery & it'll charge from 50% to 100% in about 2 hrs of driving.

@gazjaz2010

4 жыл бұрын

yea ... thats the old school more expensive less effective way to go about it. as he mentioned, lithium batteries require a bit more finesse regarding voltage when charging.

this is one of the best videos to watch ,808 approved 👍

thank you im going to try it your wiring diagram all so solved my problem of how and wair to mount it thanks again

Great Tips, Good Stuff 👍 Thanks!

Thank you for a great video, good info. We like and understood your truck drawing 😊

I was going to do same thing with my semi Instead paying 5000 “EPU” Finally found right video

I recently purchased a lithium battery 170 amp hour from Big Battery. Comes with an Anderson connect rather than having the terminals exposed which I like, and it also has a shut off switch to turn the battery off from sending out any current. And for the price for 170 amp hours it’s like 900 bucks which is less than the Battle Born for one of theirs and has a 10 year warranty as well

Thank you!! Great explanation!

Very helpful video. I am installing a 60A Renogy DC DC charger in my 2019 Ram 3500 Cummins. I decided to use 1 AWG wire and ran a both wires from the truck battery to the trailer rather than using the chassis ground. More money but I felt better about it. I have a 240AH LiFePo4 battery that I built with prismatic cells and the battery manufacturer stated the 60A was a better choice. The Renogy charger is a great product at a very fair price. Costs more for the wiring, Anderson plugs, and breakers than the Renogy unit but all in all well worth it.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

60A is a good choice for the lithium batteries , just have to make sure that your Ram alternator can handle the extra load. On the input side of the charger it may be drawing around 70 amps. Cheers, Ray

@michaeldoherty2289

3 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV No worries Ray. My truck was set up at the factory for pilot car or snow plowing and has twin 220A alternators! I felt it was a shame to waste all that power! I really liked your video. It help me out a lot in my decison making.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome!

@michaeldoherty2289

3 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV I have a similar setup to yours with 400W of solar on the roof. We have never run out of power in the summer months often boondocking for weeks with no issues. I wanted to be able to run the refrigerator on 120V when on the road, and the solar alone didn't allow that. Now with the DC DC charger we will be able to do that easily with no power issues at all. Inverter or inverter/charger install is next. Working on how to fish the wires 3/4 of the length of the trailer in the closed frame to accomlish that in the next few weeks.

Good job with the project. I would suggest enclosing all your wiring in split loom to protect it from rubbing.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I chose cable with a double jacket that has an extra-thick outer layer but may add some loom in certain areas. Cheers, Ray

you are a stud. so knowledgeable

Nicely done!

Great video! Very informative!

Awesome job on the video.

Thanks Ray, you didn't say much about cost. I suspect you have as much money into wire as the cost of charger. That's OK as you do electrical installation correctly. Good Job.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Yes cable is a big cost as good copper wire is pricey that's why I tried to keep the gauge to 4GA, I have a parts and tools list in the description.

Pretty cool device!

Well done!

Great video! This is a huge deal for me. I have owned a fifth wheel and a travel trailer with 4 different trucks and none of them could charge batteries reliability going down the road. The battery positive in the 7 pin connector hardly does anything for the battery's in a trailer. Now I know why and how to fix it.

@superflycatchermtb

4 жыл бұрын

I'm with you...i ran a camper on my Ford Superduty for 5 years and could never figure why it wouldn't top up the batteries after 4-6 hours of driving. with 14ga wire running nearly 30 feet I wasn't getting more than a couple amps per hour through the 7 pin.

@Abeaness

3 жыл бұрын

I took Physics in HS (way too MANY moons ago) so forgive me for asking what might be a stupid question for those that are more electrically inclined - but - if the DC TO DC charger “BOOSTS” the charging capability, why do you need to run a separate and larger wiring setup for the entire route?

@Roy-ij1wq

Жыл бұрын

@@Abeaness Think of how much water flows in a small creek when the sun is shining. Then think about what happens when it storms and there is more water than the creek can hold. You end up with a flash flood. Its the same thing with electricity where amps is like the water current flowing in the creek. Only with electricity the byproduct of excessive current is resistance that causes heat to build and wires to melt. Another thing to consider is that a fully discharged lithium battery will eat current like a hog eats corn and can fry your alternator along with the wiring. Lithium batteries are suppose to have a built in battery management system to regulate current but not all BMS systems are created equal. The DC to DC charger regulates the amount of current and protects your alternator provided that the alternator is designed to handle the extra load.

Hi Ray any time you have 12v at the truck side of your charger it should be on. Run your trigger to the + side of the truck. Your ground for the rig side should go to the battery bank to get max amps to the battery bank. I am a retired car audio fabricator\installer 20 years.

Definitely go with a DC to DC charger, solar isn't dependable enough these days. Great video proving this, the charger was putting out 4times the amps as the solar.

@jussikankinen9409

7 ай бұрын

Too much screen time

Nice learning experience video. I often wondered what to do once I convert the RV from flooded lead acid to Li battery when traveling. That's a goal for next year. By the way, I have the same TM-2030 & SC-2030 units and the Renogy 200 Watt folding suitcase Solar panels. I connect those together with the same 4 gauge weld wire on Anderson connectors to the SC-2030. I don't boondock as much, nor longer than 3 days, so if I do get the DC-DC unit, it would just be the 20 amp and I would connect into that same Anderson connection point. Because portable solar isn't deployed during travel and the Bogart set would be matched to Li by then. Combined with the existing trailer connector output I should have ~ 25 amps max; good since I only have the 170 amp alternator and only 2 batteries max. In time, you may want to change that DC's output 40 amp circuit breaker. As you know and similar to the AC circuit breakers, they will handle full rated load but the 80% load is what code requires so you have a built in safety zone of 20%. So as for these DC breakers , I would recommend the same. Only load it to 80% , but it will trip over it's rated capacity. You never want to continue loading a circuit breaker to its full rated capacity as this would be asking for intermittent breaker trips and you might not know it. So a 50 amp breaker's 80% load would match nicely to your 40 amp loads. Happy Camping!

For just a little more dollars, I have a Abso DMT-1250 combination DC-DC charger, which handles 50 amps on a 12 or 24v alternator, and also includes a separate input for up to 500 watts of solar panels, optimized by an MPPT solar charge profile that can be adapted to AGM, Lithium, and even has a programmable profile for future battery custom profiles or if you want to limit the draw on your alternator. This solar port can also be used to wire in an AC to DC converter that will then be plugged into shore power. This Renogy is good if you don't want the extra flexibility.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Good deal for all in one, I saw Renogy had something similar amzn.to/38lh0ba but I have a solar system setup already with a 30 amp solar controller, so I can output up to 70 amps when combined, also have a 60 amp charge converter on-board for shore power, sort of like having the systems separate in case one fails. Cheers, Ray

Thanks for the video

Good info. Over my head but I watched. 🙏🏻❤️🕷️🐢🔥🐦🦋🦎🤗💜

They make a large trolling motor plug hood for 60 amps that’s what I did and the bigger one is super nice and I have a Bigfoot truck camper and mounted the plug inside front side of bed. They say if you use too big of wire that the lithium’s will draw a ton of amps and burn or wear out prematurely, that’s what I ran 6 ga and so far so good no warm or hot wires.

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

The DC-DC charger will regulate the max current flow into the batteries. Doesn't matter how big the wires are the max output is 40 amps of the charger in this video. And actually a larger wire on the input side of the charger will lead to less current draw as there will be less voltage drop so it will draw less amperage to make the same wattage transfer.

Very nice information.on my my 22 Dutchman 94 fifth wheel i did different charging sistem easy and cheap. I will make a video soon i got some time to spare..Just subscribed cheers from an Italian in Canada.

They have a higher amp trolling motor that is up to 60 and it’s just bigger for like 36 volt trolling motor that’s what I have and trigger wire goes to a switch so I can let every thing to warm up before I turn Renorgy 40 .

You need the big trolling motor plug works perfect for me wires are cool no heat .

@LoveYourRV

8 ай бұрын

These connectors work pretty good too amzn.to/3FTU71G I used one when I built my truck box power station kzread.info/dash/bejne/rKh9u7eAdrTVoqg.html Cheers, Ray

I See your summer project became the Spring project LOL I sure like how you connected the signal wire if we ever cross paths I’ll show you how I did mine kinda on the expensive side of things using the power wire in the tow lite plug

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, so much easier to get parts off Amazon USA then CA. :) and cheaper! so went for it.

@boulderwy3387

3 жыл бұрын

I just wired mine to the 12V wire coming from the 7 Pin RV plug. That output is switched on my truck and is only hot when key is on. So didn't require anything special.

@mw8846

3 жыл бұрын

@@boulderwy3387 Would you please provide details about where you connected to your 7 pin for the trigger? TIA!

Thanks for the video, I believe the gauge wire is based on distance and measured by voltage drop between the two ends of the cable. Saying the cable isn’t hot is a very poor measurement of what is going on. Beyond a horrendous undersized cable or bad terminal Other then that some amazing detail on installation

@LoveYourRV

11 ай бұрын

If the cable is undersized the DC-DC charger will keep trying to pull more amperage through it to output the 40 amps to the batteries so knowing that the cable isn't getting too warm is a quick and easy way to know that the cable size is adequate for the amperage passing through it. Too warm and you know there is a problem. Too much voltage drop means to much resistance which translates into too much heat.

You`re ready for the end of the world my friend period! Nice install i am impressed by all your system .I need to update if i want to keep up . Your drawing by the way is nicer than the new silverado HD i mean its really ugly. Cheers kept up the good work

Hi Ray, another great video. I was wondering why you didn't install the dc to dc in the truck for future flexibility?

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, the manual said to located it as close as possible to the auxiliary battery being charged and protected from moisture and dust.

Thanks for the video and it's very interesting! That oscilloscope is fascinating. I"m no electrician or even too mechanically inclined but I'd prefer that type of device over having to connect wires to do a test. :) Just a thought from a novice armchair fan! =D I heard there's a way some DC-DC charges can do the reverse also. Not sure how that would get done though, but it would allow the starter battery to be charged from leisure battery bank. Of course, it's not for every application.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure this one doesn't support the feature. Not a big deal though I carry a booster box and could easily jump start the truck then take it for a little drive to recharge the starter batteries. Cheers, Ray

@RiDankulous

3 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Very nice, thanks.

the limiter is good for if you are just idling

You also asked when you would use the current limiting feature. I have the 60 amp model and use it in hot weather and/or when I am using multiple accessories to take strain off of alternator. I also use it when my batteries are charged and I only want to run the refrigerator on AC

@Roy-ij1wq

Жыл бұрын

I should also note that you can install an on/off/on toggle switch in your fifth wheel where one switch sends power to D+ and LC, and the other switch only sends power to D+. I ran two wires from my coach to the tow vehicle and have the toggle switch on my dashboard so I can control it when driving. When the DC charger is pulling 60 amps it is causing the engine to use about 5hp to run it which makes a slight difference in fuel economy.

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

My 6.7 Cummins diesel doesn't seem to even notice the charger. I also have an optional oversized 220 amp alternator and bare-bones model truck as far as options, so there is not much chance of overheating normally. I have installed a wireless fob switch though, to have the ability to turn off the charger remotely if I want to. Usually, when I'm pulling steep grades, I turn it off. www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/

@Roy-ij1wq

Жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Very cool. I pull power from my running lights to power my backup camera. Can you configure the switch to power the running lights from the house batteries when you are parked? If so I could use my backup camera as a security camera when parked.

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

You could get a female 7-pin plug receptacle Example: amzn.to/3JRKRw8 and then wire in the wireless switch board so it can switch the running lights and 12V battery charge pin on and off www.ajtnt.com/portals/ajstruckandtrailer/7-Way-RV-Style-Trailer-Plug-Wiring-Diagram-2.png Then when you want to use it just plug it into the male end on the trailer. :) Personally, I just wedge a blade fuse in there to do it manually.

Absolutely despise Renogy but this seems like a nice little unit at a good price!

I forgot to mention it also has a 300 amp fuse built-in to protect the battery

Make a jumper cable with the Anderson connector and it is great for backing up to someone and giving them a junp

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Good tip, but I carry a better solution for jumping starting :) - www.loveyourrv.com/noco-gb150-battery-booster-review/

@rjl7765

4 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV I just viewed the video in the link here. And a bit confused ? You say your Cummins is a 7.3? Did you mean it is 6.7? BTW good informative video as usual. cheers

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

@@rjl7765 That was an older video from 2017 when I had an old 1994 7.3L Ford F350 - www.loveyourrv.com/big-baby-blue-1994-ford-f350-truck/ now I have a 2018 6.7L Cummins in a Ram 3500. Cheers, Ray

Hey Ray, great video. Thank you! Wondering if you could clarify one thing for me. The return cable (negative cable) from the input just connects to your truck's chassis right? Would this still work if I am doing this on a van and it's sharing a chassis ground with the house battery? Would love to save money on that negative cable.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Scott. Yes, It should work, as its working like that for me. My truck frame gets attached to my trailers when hooked up through the metal hitch to the pin box so its connected to the trailer frame and my trailer batteries negative are hooked to the trailer frame. So effectively both are sharing the same ground. The only caveat is the van frame and how well it will conduct the electricity, my truck has large heavy beams, thick frame, not many joins, so no issue. Some vehicles have more complex frames with lots of joined pieces and sometimes that can create resistance greater than using a dedicated negative cable especially if the vehicle is old and may have some corrosion. but doesn't hurt to try. Cheers, Ray

It runs my 12 volt AC unit on truck camper that’s why 6 gauge wire it’s so short wires .

Ray, can you measure the current going through the 7-pin ground? I've heard issues with overloading the small ground wire when doing additional charging.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

My DC-DC charger installation isn't using the 7 pin tow cable ground. It's wired with a separate 4 gauge cable from the negative input lug through the Anderson Power Pole connector and then down to the truck's frame that I utilized for a negative ground return to the battery/alternator. I did use the maker light circuit to power the relay that turns the DC-DC charger on and off, but the current is barely anything to do that. Cheers, Ray

I love the idea of just tagging onto the SCC output. So if you were in a motorhome I assume you would have just used the keyed ignition on lead for your trigger? This is so the dc dc charger doesn't drain your starting battery after your engines off.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

You can use any 12V trigger source you desire. What ever works best for you. Cheers, Ray

Charging limit is for battery size. A 40 amp charger will work perfect with 400ah battery. Or it could be used to limit the amp going to the battery an run other accessories.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Also, depends on the battery type. My old golf cart lead acid batteries recommended a charge rate of 15 amps, so I used to charge the 4 of them (combined 464ah) I had at near 60 amps. But my new lithium batteries are much different. Each 105ah battery has a max 100 amps charge rate and a 45 amp recommended rate. They can take a much higher rate of amps. So the 40A DC-DC charger would work well with just one. How do you limit the amps going to the battery? Cheers, Ray

Hola amigo estoy pensando en comprar este booster para mi autocaravana clasica pero estoy dudando entre el 20amp o 40amp, mi alternador supuestamente es de 55ah,cual crees que me vendria mejor que no afecte a la instalación electrica o al alternador? Espero su respuesta,gracias de antemano,saludos desde España 😊

I personally would put some wire loom cover it what ever it's called and put the wires that are outside in it. To help with weather and stuff.

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Good tip. I decided for the wire that runs under the truck I used stuff that is double jacketed. A tough inner wire covering plus a softer thick outer jacket for protection. I'll add some loom over that. Cheers, Ray

Hi Ray. As always, love your videos and appreciate you sharing. We’re planning to travel 6 months out of the year for the next two years. We expect to be moving weekly and boondocking in our travel trailer whenever possible. I already have a generator and plan to add solar, two lithium batteries and a 2000w inverter. Our greatest consumption of electric will be the use of a microwave and hairdryer Because we plan to move frequently, does it make more sense for us to skip the solar panels and just rely on charging our batteries with a DC to DC charger?

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Donn! Personally I'd want the solar before the DC-DC charger unless I planned to be mostly traveling and camping in cloudy areas. It really nice to camp and have the sun recharge batteries quietly all day long. Cheers, Ray

@dlt32

4 жыл бұрын

Love Your RV Thank you for your quick response Ray. Stay safe and healthy.

Just had one installed. Going on a cross country very soon. Thanks for all your knowledge. Looking forward to having full batteries while boondocking. Do you drive with your refrigerator on electric instead of propane? I seems like it should be no problem for the 40 amp to keep up with a 12 cubic. ice box.. Thanks again Bob T

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

So far I haven't, maybe I will at some point but honestly we have never felt the need to have the fridge running during travels as the food stays cold enough since we are opening the door. We don't travel much in high temps and travel days are usually limited to around 4-5 hours. Most times I also have something defrosting anyway. Cheers! Ray

Thanks for the video! Can you tell me what you mean by "spliced into the 12v for the side marker light" ? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to attach that trigger wire to, and how to do it. Thanks for the help!

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Another way of saying T-tapped into the power wire that supplies the marker lights. I used solder but there are connectors that are quite popular called T taps used in automotive wiring. amzn.to/3gVSzsX I used my marker light power wire as it was convenient for me since I always have them on when towing but any switched 12V power will do. A wireless 12V switch may be a cool way to do it. amzn.to/2QPLrn1 Cheers, Ray

@suzycashbuilds4297

3 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Ahh Ok thanks for the clarification. I was thinking I had to run it all the way back up to the bus' fuse box, but I see you are saying you just spliced right into the wire running to those lights. Got it. Thanks!

Nice setup! Two questions: Can the dc/dc charger be set to cut out at a particular input voltage? You have enough alternator and are unlikely to leave the park lights on, but in some applications it would be nice to ensure the start battery won’t over discharge… Never had li-ion, but I understand their C rating drops when below freezing and they can be destroyed by trying to charge too many amps when cold? Do the batteries have bms to protect them?

@LoveYourRV

2 жыл бұрын

No, it doesn't so most people will wire the trigger to the vehicle ignition circuit so only runs when the vehicle engine is on. Recently, I've also added a wireless remote to my setup www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/ yes, my Lion Energy batteries have a built in BMS that shuts off charging and discharging when too cold to protect the lithium cells. I did some tests using a deep freeze www.loveyourrv.com/lithium-rv-battery-deep-freeze-test-lion-energy-safari-ut1300/ Cheers, Ray

@JeffinTD

2 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Nice. Looks like a slick setup.

Nice presentation, I've been wondering what this dc to dc stuff was all about. My new truck came with a 400W max 120V outlet adjacent to the tailgate. I've toyed with the idea of using a 120V input charger in the bed or near the battery plugged into this outlet. I have a NOCO 7.5 amp charger that I carry to charge the truck battery from the LFP in the RV via the inverter (I've used that just once when I left the truck's internet on too long a year or two ago). But, it could also be used to charge to charge the LFP from the truck's 120V bed outlet (with ignition on). A larger unit with 20 amp or a bit more could also be used (need to assure less than 400W at the input).

@fredthompson2501

4 жыл бұрын

Mr Clark that not good idea. You would be losing to much power going from dc to a.c. to dc again. 400 watts inverter could be a modified sine wave not good for running chargers etc.

@fishhuntadventure

4 жыл бұрын

Fred Thompson That’s right! It’s too easy and inexpensive these days to do things like this cleanly and without extra stuff to do to make everything work (or worry about rain.)

@garyswitzer6867

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, what everyone else said, way too much energy efficiency loss. But a better option in my opinion is to use a DC-DC x 20 amp unit and for the 12 volts, tie into the back 12 volt wires to that inverter. They should be thick enough for the 20 amp unit.

I've been pondering using the truck for my negative ground also to save on cost of wire. Am i thinking correctly that from a grounding point on the vehicle chassis, i just need to do a short run to the input of the charger? My plan is to have the charger in close proximity to my house battery, so I'm not too worried about that side. I'll just run both negative and positive to the battery itself. It's a long way from my engine compartment to the location of the charger. Hopfully, i can save the majority of the cost for that run of negative wire. Thank you

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

A lot depends on the materials used for the vehicle chassis frame and various connection points but worth a try. My Ram truck uses large beams that run front to back so not many frame connections and everything is solid steel so works well as a conductor. It worked great for this Renogy and I recently tested an SRNE DC-DC on the same setup and works well. www.loveyourrv.com/testing-out-an-srne-50-amp-dc-dc-charger-mppt-solar-controller-combo/ Cheers, Ray

I have purchased everything for this setup but am curious about the ground wire from the engine compartment to the Anderson connector at the bed connection point. Does the ground wire go directly to the truck battery or to the frame? TIA!

@LoveYourRV

3 жыл бұрын

Most people recommend that the ground return cable goes back to the battery. But to save money I used the truck frame and its worked well. My Ram truck use long steel beams in its frame so I attached a short cable from the Anderson connector to the frame under the end of the truck bed. You can see my truck wiring install here - www.loveyourrv.com/alternator-charging-mod-12-vdc-truck-bed-high-amp-power-port/ Before the Renogy DC-DC charge I had played around with installing an spare solar controller but it didn't work very well.

In your video you show a buss bar with a clear plastic cover. Can you tell me where you purchased that particular buss bar from please?

@LoveYourRV

2 жыл бұрын

It's a Blue Sea Systems 5503 ANL fuse block with insulated cover www.bluesea.com/products/5503/ANL_Fuse_Block_with_Insulating_Cover_-_35_to_750A Got it from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun www.solar-electric.com/blue-sea-systems-5503-fuse-block.html I also use it as a holder for my inverter protection fuse. Cheers, Ray

Hey ray what terminal size lugs did you use on the safari 1300? And what size on dc to dc connector please. Thanks love all your videos stay safe

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, My Safari UT1300 battery bank is wired with 2/0 GA cables and lugs. I only have a 1000 watt inverter but sized the cables with maybe future plan to up that to a 2000 watt inverter. For the DC-DC charger I used 4 GA it puts put a max of 40 amps. Here is another video I did recently kzread.info/dash/bejne/gKhnpaluocisZdI.html tested the system using solar, DC-DC and generator power all at the same time. I used the DC-DC a few times on the drive home during rainy days it worked well. Cheers! Ray

Question. I want to run the same setup as you have ,but I want to install my dc to dc converter under my second row seating of my truck 🛻. Then use the Anderson plugs to make my connection to a fifth wheel or a travel trailer when I tow ..that way if I need to change from lithium to lead all I have to do is move my dip switches. Question is will I get the same voltage I need to the second battery 🔋 too charger it or will I get a big voltage drop.

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

It should work; you just may need to use a larger gauge wire to limit the voltage drop. The manual has input and output wire size recommendations depending on the length of the run required www.renogy.com/content/RNG-DCC1212-20-BC/DCC1212-204060-Manual.pdf Cheers, Ray

Could you do a short review or provide your experience with the 60A switchable breaker? Saw a few reviews on Amazon that they don't work as advertised, but I was planning on using a few for my DC to DC and sitting between my Solar Panels and MPPT.

@LoveYourRV

Жыл бұрын

No problems so far. I've also used switchable breakers in my RV DC power system without a problem. Have a total of 5 breakers from various manufacturers now. One of them is now 10 years old, and a couple others are around 7. I think the best is likely the Blue Sea brand, but you'll pay a bit of a premium for it as it's designed more rugged for a marine environment. amzn.to/3dXTSbc Cheers, Ray

Is there anything that has to be done to the truck pin connector, truck fuses to the pin connector, or to the standard 5th wheel cable? Thx for a great video!!

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

No, I didn't need to touch the tow cable on the truck. Cheers, Ray

Quick question on the wiring to the trailer light connection. On a Ford The #4 trailer pin usually is the Aux12V+ going to the trailer and is only on when the ignition is on. When I do mine, would this work just as well and not need to worry about the lights? Thanks for the great video.

@LoveYourRV

4 жыл бұрын

Sure, any switchable 12V source should work fine it takes very little amperage. I decided to go with the marker light 12v versus the ignition so I could let my diesel engine warm up a bit before turning on the DC-DC charger if I wanted to and it was easier than running a dedicated switch.

@markogaz

4 жыл бұрын

@@LoveYourRV Another option to think about. Thanks again.

At 7:21 you show your negative output to the chassis ground. Can you run that to your negative busbar or does it have to go to the chassis?

@LoveYourRV

5 ай бұрын

Sure, I just did it to save on wire and keep things tidy looking.