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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-b...
Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 we're going to be installing BMW's turnover ball under bed gooseneck, part number BWGNRK1016. Now this is what our goose neck is going to look like when it's installed. It's going to allow you to hook up to your gooseneck trailer, and has a tongue weight of 7,500 pounds, and a gross towing capacity of 30,000 pounds. The safety chain connections are retractable and spring loaded, so when you're not using them they spring down to be flushed, stay out of your way. When you're ready to use them you can just pull them up and make your connection. The included ball mount can be flipped over and stored upside down, and this way you've got full truck bed access.
You do want to verify on your particular truck, depending on the options you have, that the ball will not come into contact with any steering, drive line, or other components underneath. Additionally, you want to verify on your vehicle's owner's manual to ensure you're not exceeding any of its towing capacities. The handle that comes with it allows you to quickly lock and unlock your ball by giving it a simple twist.Here you can see our ball underneath in its stowed position. The entire assembly is a steel construction with a gray powder coat finish to resist against corrosion. It comes with all the hardware you need to get it installed.
There is some minor drilling. Let's show you how to do that now. We'll begin our installation by removing our spare tire. Now it's not necessary to remove the spare tire, but it will significantly give you more room to work and see what you're doing.Next we'll need to mark and drill out a four inch hole for our gooseneck in our truck bed. You want to refer to your instructions for the appropriate position where you're going to mark and drill.
The distance from the edge of your bed is going to be dependent upon the length of your bed. So we've got a short bed here, so we've marked it. We're now going to drill out our four inch hole. We'll now clean up our metal shavings, and then use some clear coat around the edge to prevent any rusting corrosion.Next we're going to remove our heat shield. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket to remove the bolts at the back and the front of the shield.
We can now take our heat shield down and set it aside as we won't be reinstalling it. Now we're going to cut out a notch on our passenger side just above our joust bumper. We're gonna use some tin snips to start here, and this will allow us to slide in our rails up above our frame.We can now slide in our front cross member. We want the smooth side to be towards the front and the side with the holes in it towards the rear. Then you can slide it towards the front of the truck. We can then slide in our rear section, and we'll finish sliding that over until it's roughly centeredWell then need to rotate our rear cross member so that it's upright. The holes are offset on our beam here, so we need to make sure that the holes are closest to the frame, so it's the bottom not the bed. So we're going to rotate again this way. To assist with rotation you tend to use an adjustable wrench to grab it and help you twist it. We can now slide it all the way back.Now on our front cross beam on the driver's side just above our fuel tank, we're going to pre install one of our bolts. Now the eight bolts that are identical, those are going to be the ones that go into your cross member. So we'll set that bolt in, we'll use the rubber O ring that comes in the kit to help keep that bolt in place. This just makes it easier to get your center section up and get this bolt in place due to the limited space from the fuel tank being there. We'll now raise our center section in place, and it may be useful to have an extra set of hands to help you get this lined up. Trying to make sure that hole lines up with the hole that we cut in our bed. We're going to use the shorter bolts to attach our front cross member and the longer bolts to attach our rear cross member.We'll now line the bolts up in the frame, take our center section and slide some of the hardware through. We're now going to get one bolt started on each side, so for the rear cross member we're going to use a bolt with a lock washer and a flat washer on it, and we're going to get that threaded in straight into the cross member. Once you get one started on each side will make it easy to hold up the rest of your hardware. The one that we had in our front cross member, now we we're just using to support it. We'll now put the correct hardware on that, which is going to be a bolt straight through the front member, then ou