In case anyone is wondering; the recommended grease to be used on the rubber boot is ‘Staburags NBU 30 PTM’. This is taken from the actual technical service manual for these bikes. It acts as a waterproofing agent to stop water ingress into the driveshaft assembly. Excellent video buddy, much appreciated by all.

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info, watching the video and the kind words. Stay safe

@ArcanePath360

Жыл бұрын

I questioned BMW about this to see if they sold it, because it's so hard to get in the UK, and they said they just use standard grease. They had never heard of it. This was Bahnstormers.

@billwaterhouse5894

Жыл бұрын

I thought the NBU 30 was for the splines and the Kluber lubricant was for the rubber?

@clayfarnet970

11 ай бұрын

Nice detailed work. Thanks

I have watched a few FD maintenance videos now. I would have thought this was way out of my comfort zone, but videos like yours give me confidence. Thanks from Canada!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Make sure you have the correct tools and everything else you need, then just take your time. You’ll be very happy with yourself when you’ve completed the job and be more confident with future jobs. It’s a learning experience and your hip pocket will love you. If you get stuck or have any questions, feel free to ask and I’m really glad the video helped you gain confidence.

Securing the center stand to the front wheel is an excellent idea. I will be sure to use that moving forward.

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

I’m really pleased that you got something from the video and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.

One of the better final drive videos on KZread. Not many mention using threadlock as on the caliper and paralever arm screws as standard. For info I used a foam ear plug to temporarily bung the speed sensor hole, worked a treat. Excellent video, well done.

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and for passing on the great idea of using the ear plug for the sensor hole. Stay safe.

@arai4176

Жыл бұрын

Brilliant mate! Absolutely brilliant. I was about to postpone this until next oil change but now I can continue my weekend plans. Many thanks to both if you for the time it takes to put this video together and the helpful hints, tips and tricks.

Will bookmark for reference. Comprehensive coverage + in my opinion your wire method is the most logical compared to others wrestling with it. Glad I ran into this, I'm due for this maintenance this spring- Thank you for posting

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Hope it helps out in your upcoming maintenance and thanks for taking the time to comment and watching the video. If you need any help during the job, let me know and I’ll do my best to help. Stay safe.

@lennykibbs260

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thank you stay safe as well

Awesome explanation and tutorial. I own a 1250GS '19, and I did it in the 40K kms service and it was in good condition also, was made by a BMW garage (not by me). Now I'm reaching 60K kms is time to do this job by me and this tutorial is very helpful and great explained. Thanks!!

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Really good to see that you’re getting some kilometres on your 1250GS. I’m fairly sure, considering that you had the inspection done at 40K, that there will be no nasty surprises waiting for you. Just take your time when do the job and if I can help in way, just drop me a message here. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. Stay safe.

Totally agree with that small amount of lubrication on that torque lever bolt. Twice I’ve had dry squeak sounds from that bolt area which I can only put down to dry surface friction. Checked the torque setting & it was fine. Lubrication done, no squeak. About to do mine again, which I tend to do probably twice a year. Thanks for your vid. 👍🏍

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

I'm pleased to see that there was method in my madness and you are living proof that the bolt requires a very small amount of lube on assembly. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

Best video ever. Your attention to detail is remarkable , even use a red soft wire. I have done this years ago so i know how. But your video explains it so clearly. I had to learn by making mistakes. 🤣🤣 You also explain very clear in fantastic English . Thanks a lot.

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for your kind words and also for subscribing ☺️. There will be more videos coming but COVID is certainly hindering riding and subsequently maintenance. In the meantime, stay safe and have a great Christmas and New Year.

Excellent video, many thanks! High moly grease is essential for the spline, and the lithium grease a really good idea for the rubber boot.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked the video and thank you for your kind words.

Thanks for explaining in detail.I need to change the drive shaft rubber boot.Very helpful video!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you found the video helpful and thanks for taking the time to comment.

Thank you. Very sharp videos and bright. Makes me feel confident I can do this too. BMW wanted 150chf (150usd) for this lube job.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your kind words. Make sure you have the tools and the two greases ready to go and then organise a day where you can just take your time and go at your own pace. By completing the job yourself, you will get immense satisfaction as well as getting to know your bike better. If you have any issues, drop me a message and I’ll do my best to help.

Appreciate you sharing this - very useful!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful and thank you for taking the time to comment.

Perfect video. Exactly what I needed.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for taking the time to watch the video and commenting.

Thanks for this video, I have done this job a few years ago and was looking to refresh my memory, very clear and easy to follow. Thanks mate...best wishes from England

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for your kind words, watching the video and taking the time to comment. If I can help in any way don’t hesitate to drop a line. Hopefully you’re coping ok with the heat…..we’ve got it to look forward to in a few months time. Stay safe.

@grantridout1884

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider we all look forward to a bit of warm weather but the last few days have been pretty tough especially at night, not many houses here have the need for a/c, cheers mate

Thanks for sharing this mate, awesome instructional video 👍

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. Stay safe.

Super clean! Hope mine is doing that well :) Thanks for pro video.

Very good indeed, some nice little extra issues to think about and use from your video, well done

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. If I can help in any way when you do the work on your bike, let me know and I'll do my best to assist. In the meantime, stay safe and thanks for watching the video.

Thank you! Just bought my first R1200RS 2016 with 72000 kms on the clock, I bet this needs doing, and now I know how! Cheers from Sweden!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Pleased that the video will be helpful. If you need any help or advice when you’re doing the job, let me know and I’ll assist where I can. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

@doolar

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider I did the work two days ago, and it was long overdue. The splines were corroded and there was almost no movement. Cleaned up and lubricated, all with your video as a reference. Thanks again, and for the reply!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Excellent news and pleased everything went well.

Very informative and very useful, thank you.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you found it useful and thanks for taking the time to comment.

Great video, many thanks i will be able to tackle this job myself

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you found the video of use. If you need anything clarifying don’t hesitate to get in touch and I’ll try my best to help.

Well done video! I did my 1250 and was curious how it would look after 20k miles, I was pleasantly surprised it was in good shape. I put on some additional grease and closed it up, great video!

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for the kind words and that you found the video useful. Also very pleased that your final drive was in good shape and needed no remedial attention. Stay safe and enjoy the 1250.

I like your tip to secure the front wheel to the center stand!

@TheMotorradRider

5 ай бұрын

Glad you like it! Stay safe.

Many thanks for a very useful video. Just a small point on your needing three hands - I’ve overcome the problem to some extent by using a bottle jack to support the final drive when removing or installing the paralever bolt - hope that helps. Thanks again.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Great advice and thanks so much for sharing. Thanks for watching the video.

This is such a good video. I hope I do not have to do this often but it certainly eased the way.

@TheMotorradRider

17 күн бұрын

Many thanks for watching the video and glad it helped you out. Ride safe and stay upright.

appreciated as doing the job is one thing, sharing how to do it is another...

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words Gunga Din. Here is a link that should take you to where I purchased my tub of grease from here in Australia:- www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/Morey-s-Grease-Tub-suits-Polyurethane-Bush-Kits-500gm-Container/ZPN-03676 . Any white lithium grease from a tub (aerosol version does not seem to quite as good of a job) will suffice. Details of what I used and relevant torque settings for the job can be found between roughly 23:23 and 23:35 in the video timeline. In the next couple of weeks I will be producing a video of changing the air filter and replacing it with arguably a more efficient type if you're interested. Again, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

Very very good Video thanx from France good tips

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

Excellent video. Thank you!

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video and your kind words. Stay safe.

Very good video!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching the video and for taking the time to comment.

Well done, thank you! Recently purchased a 2007 Colorado, USA police bike R1200RT-P with 72,000 miles. Runs like a top, but I am determined to go over every nut and bolt. Very thoroughly done job, well explained. Another KZread Aussie has a Police Bike, just like mine he recently cannibalized to make an ultra-light! McLeod's Daughters has left me with a great affinity for all things Australian ;-)!

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Many thanks for your kind words. It sounds like you have had a really good buy with your RT-P. It will have had no expense spared on the servicing and at 72k miles, nicely run in and should provide you with heaps of great rides. Good to hear about your affinity with all things Aussie……..a really good thing to have 😉. Have fun with the bike and thanks for watching the video as well as taking the time to comment. Stay safe.

Thanks TMR I actually did this job on a 2008 GS and unlike yourself I did struggle to get the spline re engaged. Now own a 2018 GS so I am pretty your knowledge and video's will help me maintain my bike. Needs to a British pension is not that great.

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Many thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. I’m sure you’ll have many great adventures on the ‘18 GS and doing your own maintenance not only saves money but allows you to learn about your bike’s idiosyncrasies. Stay safe and upright.

Great video. I just did the spline maintenance and everything went fine. The spline was in great condition. I've used the Honda M77 paste on it. Thank again for your advice. Keep on filming.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Excellent news and I’m really pleased that you found everything in great condition. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. More videos will be coming.

Great video! Thanks for sharing. Planning to service mine today and will reference these steps. Especially liked the fact I can do this and keep the final drive oil in there, which I recently replaced. My only comment on the video is that I think the torque value shown for the rear mud guard at 21:32 are incorrect. I've checked two different sources online and both call this the "Spray Guard" and list the torque value at 8Nm, not 20Nm. One called it "Spray guard to rear wheel drive", the other called it "Spray guard to bevel guards", but both list 8Nm.

Thanks from Sweden. Very well and pedagogically explained. I am about to start doing this tomorrow :) /Anders

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Anders, you are too kind. If you have any questions or run into any issues let me know and I’ll help as best I can but most importantly, just take your time.

@steelwire666

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks for your support. The job was completed in less than 3h. Was a bit anxious about reconnecting the shaft. But it was kind to me ;) It went very smoothly. Thanks again :) Now I have way bigger confidence in doing things "on my own" (as you mentioned in the video) I´ll keep watching your channel. Cheers!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

That’s great news and I’m really pleased things went so well for you. Thanks for watching the channel and make sure that you stay safe both on and off the bike in these very strange and uncertain times.

Awesome video! Thank you. The tabs broke off my rear boot, so I will have to replace it. Will lube the splines while I am in there. Your video made me think I will be able to do it myself :) Cheers from South Africa

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and watching the video. If you have any issues when you do the work, drop me a line and I’ll try to assist. Stay safe.

@GreaseAndGravel

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks, I really appreciate it. Ordered the boots from BMW today. Cheers

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

@@GreaseAndGravel Excellent. Keep in touch.

kudos for the symptoms first off the top i could not figure what i was doing wrong from 2nd to 3rd i kept missing and when on a spirited run in the highway (lots of that around me) once i couldnt get it back engaged untill i was in 1st gear range 20 mph other times it would just rev and i could usually get it the second try final drive fluid was horible gearbox wasnt as bad very satisfied with my handy work cheers!

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Stay safe.

Thank you for an excellent video. At the beginning of the video (0:40) you mentioned that rusted splines can cause hard gear shifting. I experience clunky shifting in the low gears. I know that is a common issue on early (2013) LC models, but I plan on lubricate the splines and hopefully the gear shifts will be smoother. I have to say I hesitate a bit doing this myself if I accidentally can loosen the splines in the gearbox end of the shaft if the splines in the FD-end are seized due to corrosion. I understand you use thread lock (medium) on both the paralever bolt and on the bolts for the brake caliper. The specifications I have found specify high strength thread-locking compound (Loctite 2701) or new bolt with micro-encapsulated thread lock. The caliper bolts are specified with no thread lock at all.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. If you do have seized splines and you inadvertently pull the gearbox end of the shaft off, it is held in place by a wire spring clip and should push back in place without too much hassle. Regarding the thread lock. I have used Loctite 243 on many applications and this one is no exception. Having been working on machines for over 40 years I am just passing on how and what I do but the choice is most definitely yours but if you elect to use high strength thread lock, it will make the next inspection harder. Many thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

@nikoscosmos

2 жыл бұрын

Did you see improvement?

@paltorvbraten9604

6 ай бұрын

@@nikoscosmos No, I did not.

@nikoscosmos

6 ай бұрын

@paltorvbraten9604 spline lubrication is a complete groupthink myth and a cult as there isn't any sliding of the splines due to the paralever design. However if lubrication prevents corrosion of the lower universal joint, then I guess it may do some good.

Very cool your video very well explained I have a gs 1200 rally adventure I am a mechanic but I will do the maintenance on mine I am Brazilian

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words and watching the video. By doing your own maintenance, you get to know your bike and it can also allow you to help others in difficulty. Stay safe.

Great Video.👍

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to watch the video. Stay safe.

Very in-deep video thanks for the effort and sharing your knowledge, now what about the other front end spline output from engine side transmission?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

The gearbox output shaft splines and drive shaft splines are locked in place by a spring clip and do not move unlike the lower final drive end. They are also considerably less prone to rust due to their proximity to the engine/gearbox. A sharp pull on the drive shaft will release the spring clip and then the shaft can be removed if required. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

Thank you very much for the video, this is really helpful. Would you be so kind to shed some light on a situation when there is rust present, how would you go with cleaning the rust?

Liked and Subscribed... Thanks.

Thanks for a great video. Called 3 different BMW dealers in the US and they all stated that this Maintanace is not really necessary. So... not sure what to believe. 😔

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

I totally understand your dilemma. What I suggest is for you to do a search on the Net for “BMW rusted drive shaft splines”, “GS seized final drive” or such like and find the plethora of cases of severely rusted drive shafts owners have encountered on their machines. Why? Because BMW don’t think it necessary to service the FD splines. I want my bike to run trouble free for as long as possible and for me to have peace of mind on a trip that at least my unit has been serviced and has less chance of failure. The newer machines, mine included, have been upgraded by BMW to painted drive shafts and a little bit of lubricant in the splines to prevent seized shafts. What does that tell you? Frankly, I don’t care what the dealers say as I and countless other owners check (and lubricate the splines) on a regular basis as part of the maintenance schedule. If you live in a location that is wet, cold or has salty roads or you do a lot of off road work, I would strongly suggest you check your unit but ultimately the choice is yours. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment.

thank you❤️

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome and hope you find it useful. Stay safe.

Excellent! Thanks for this. Any chance you might know what diameter plug suits the speed sensor hole.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

The diameter of the plug that I use for the speed sensor hole is 10.5mm. Hope that helps and thanks for watching the video and your kind words.

Very good video and well explained. Subscribed. I think that for someone doing it for the first time it takes at least 2-3 hours. Those of you who tried it know it for sure. I think that this kind of check of the shaft shoud be done although you live in a dry and warm area. My question regarding this is when/with how many kilometers done? Thanks for your answer.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

It all depends on how, when and where you ride. If, like me you do little off road work and live in a dry(ish) climate and that I had already checked the spines, I would not be worrying about them for a couple of years or 20K klms. If your riding involves heavy off road work, creek crossings or you live in a damp or tropical climate and close to the coast then I would consider performing the check at least annually. I must stress, this is my opinion only and should be taken as such. If you wish to perform the inspection more frequently, you will not do any harm and you will have peace of mind that everything is 'good to go'. Hope this helps and thanks for subscribing and taking the time to watch the video.

@RRRRefuelRideRace

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks for this. I hopefully live in the area where there is little snow and when it is raining I do not ride. I agree with you, doing a check it is always spot on and it is harmless.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

One thing I should add is, if you do the check and find that you have the updated painted drive shafts such as those in the video, that obviously reduces the corrosion issue. Now don't quote me on this but I THINK that the painted shafts and grease to the splines, were fitted by the factory from MY18 onwards to address the corrosion issues. If yours is 2018 or younger, I would still do the check for your own peace of mind and spray something like ACF50 (tinyurl.com/k34byt) into the FD housing for some added protection. It can't hurt.

@RRRRefuelRideRace

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks for this. I will probably buy a new bike in 2023, R1250RS or any similar model to this. Anyway I like to have things in order and ready to use carefree, that`s why I will check it anyway like you mentioned.

I don't even own an R1200RT yet and I still found this very interesting!

What brand of grease did you use.... great video by the way keep them coming....

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

I used Castrol Spheerol LMM for the splines and Morey's white lithium grease for the boot. All the details of torque settings and greases used (including thumbnails), can be found towards the end of the video (23:23 to roughly 23:35). Thank you for watching the video and your kind words of encouragement. I have been moving house over the last few weeks and hope to be getting some more videos underway very shortly.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Try this link.... it should get you there. www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/Morey-s-Grease-Tub-suits-Polyurethane-Bush-Kits-500gm-Container/ZPN-03676

You said it’s a 2018, how many miles? Yours looked very good inside. Thanks for the video!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

3301 klms (2051 miles) and yes mine was (and is!) very clean, unlike some that have been shown on various web sites with equal (and lower) kilometres that have extremely bad rust issues. Apparently, just because BMW installed painted or coated drive shafts in the later model bikes does not mean that they are immune from the rust issue either, as allegedly, not all splines were greased properly on assembly at the factory. If you live in a harsh environment e.g., near the sea, where roads are salted during cold weather or heavy rainfall, it would certainly pay to keep an eye on this area of potential rust to prevent the problem escalating. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. There will be other videos coming soon.

Good informative video, Can you not grease the front spline at the same time, I think the front floats in & out like the rear you could pull the Gator back and get some grease in there

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Your question has been raised and addressed many times previously in the comments. A brief summary is that the the gearbox end splines do not move and are located by means of a wire spring clip. The location and warmth from the gearbox prevents problems but feel free to check out the splines if you so desire. Hope this helps. Stay safe.

Question - The rear shaft section did not drop. What can I do? Maybe is fused. Then I should not touch it.... any advise. Thanks. Great video. Is a 2017 GS and no rust inside.

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Rotate drive shaft so the U-joint yoke is horizontal, i.e. it pivots up and down. The weight of the FD should pull the pinion from the end of the U-joint. The up/down alignment keeps the U-joint from binding. If there is no rust then also try rotating the brake rotor (disc) backwards and forwards, stopping sharply at each direction change to help break any binding of the splines. Just remember, when it does drop, it will do so very quickly so be prepared. Thanks for watching the video and for asking the question.

Excellent video but you never greased or serviced the front splines near gearbox?Thanks

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and you are correct. As I mentioned in previous comments, the reason being is that the gearbox end rarely, if ever, cause problems and are not required to move due to being secured in place by a clip, unlike the FD splines which MUST move and cause issues if they do not. I appreciate you watching the video and taking the time to comment.

Nice video. Subscribed! Any issues or suggestions regarding spraying ACF-50 in there?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and subscribing. ACF-50 being the fantastic stuff that it is, will, IMHO, help prevent any corrosion of the steel parts and the internal surfaces of alloy swing arm casing. I spray much of the bike with it and consequently the bike has absolutely no corrosion. Hope that helps.

@nbramsey6719

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider 👍🏼 I do have some but so far only used around the acreage for locks and gate hardware, etc. Does the ACF-50 interact with the greased spline areas (if you happen to overspray)? And on the outside of the bike, does it leave a sticky film or residue that would pick up dirt or dust? Is it safe on plastics if oversprayed? (Sorry for all the questions!)

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

No problems about the questions. ACF-50 is designed and manufactured for the aeronautical industry to prevent corrosion particularly in hidden and hard to get to areas (inside wings and behind bulkheads etc) so therefore has to be safe for all types of surfaces. If for example you apply it to cabling but close to an electrical connector, the ACF-50 will eventually migrate towards the connector and prevent any future corrosion and arresting any that is already there. It will not damage or degrade the insulation of the wiring as it is inert. The same goes for overspray with the greased spline.....it will not affect the grease. With regard to dust pick up, that's a good question. After riding through dusty conditions my engine that is nearly all black, shows dust stuck to it but is it worse than if there was no ACF-50? I can't honestly say! I wash the bike as normal and it comes up beautifully clean. I have black cross spoked rims on the BMW and they have a roughish black finish to them and ACF-50 or not, they still pick up dust like there is no tomorrow........even when sitting still for a month!! The secret, and believe me this takes some getting used to, is to apply sparingly, very sparingly! I have a cloth that I have used solely for ACF-50 that is now so impregnated with the product that all I have to do is wipe the cloth over the item to be coated and that's it......job done. The ACF-50 actually travels and disperses itself over time and works really well when applied slightly warm. DO NOT APPLY TO BRAKE CALIPERS or ROTORS for obvious reasons 😳 I use it on the chromed spokes and nipples of my Bonneville wheels and have noticed no significant difference to dust pickup but absolutely no corrosion of the said parts and they are notorious for rusting. I would have to say, for me, I'd rather have slightly increased dust pickup and no corrosion (particularly in areas that you generally cannot get to) than no dust but the possibility of some form of corrosion. Sorry for the long winded reply but hope it helps you out.

@nbramsey6719

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thank you for your reply. Very much appreciated! I’m going to start using it more. Stay safe!

Thanks for this. I have a 2014 RT and I'm dreading looking at it, since the bike did not seem well looked after. I've got 23k on it now.

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help. Take it slowly and methodically and you’ll be fine. Keep in touch.

@ArcanePath360

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Much appreciated. Good to know, thanks. It's a job I will tackle when I have a week off I think, just in case something goes wrong. Will molly grease be okay to use on the gears? Was thinking of just laying it on with a trowel so to speak.

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

@@ArcanePath360 Moly grease will be fine for the splines. You don’t need to be too heavy handed as a little goes a long way. Clean off the old grease as thoroughly as you can and then get a decent dollop of fresh moly on a gloved finger and apply thoroughly around the splines on the shaft. Do the same to the splines in the carden joint and you’re then ready to start reassembly. Keep in touch.

@ArcanePath360

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thank you!

@ArcanePath360

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Well it turns out I didn't even need to grease it, the splines were practically new with a white grease still in good shape on them. I just dabbed a little moly on, and put back together with NBU30 grease on the accordion. Was very surprised there was no rust at all, considering the condition the bike was in when I bought it

Thanks for making the video. I’m picking up a GS next week and was wondering if lubricating the union joint was a good idea? I had an R1200RT where the final drive failed at the union joint. I’m actually pretty lucky as it was at motorway speed. Is using lubricant on the union joint a problem?

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to watch the video and hopefully you found it useful. Secondly, congratulations on the GS. Excellent choice and you will certainly enjoy it. Moving on to your question. The universal joints are generally sealed and lubricated for life and don’t require maintenance unless, like for example, Toyota Land Cruiser universals that have grease nipples fitted to them allowing specific grease to be applied at service intervals. Your RT may have had the universal joint break due to seized splines putting excessive strain on the universal joint causing catastrophic failure. This is my opinion only. In a nutshell, keeping the final drive splines lubricated will allow the final drive universal joint to work within its specified parameters without any additional requirements. I stress again, in my opinion. Hope that helps, stay safe and enjoy that GS.

@radiocrash

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider thanks soo much for that detailed reply means a lot 👍 I look forward to more content. Cheers

Very informative.. How much free play should the final drive have ? Thank you..

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

When you check the rear wheel with the bike on the centre stand, I believe that there can be anywhere between 25mm - 50mm (1" - 2") of movement (free play) at the wheel rim. This is due to 'take up' of slack in splines, gears and suchlike. However, in my opinion and I stress that it is in my opinion only, if you check for lateral (axial) play at the rear wheel and also when trying to move the rear wheel forward and backwards (radial) but not rotating the wheel, there should be no more than 1mm (0.04") movement and preferably 0mm. If there is excessive movement detected, it could be a sign that bearings are showing signs of wear and need attention. If you have any concerns and don't feel confident in diagnosing, I would suggest getting the FD professionally checked for your own peace of mind. Hope this helps and thanks for taking the time to watch the video and asking the question.

@patrickporter788

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your early response. That was a relief to hear. I didn't realise that it could be 25m -50mm rotation. I will check now for side movement but I think it's ok.. thanks again. 🏍🏍🏍

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Glad I could help to put your mind at ease.

Wonderful video, particularly for a newbie who is about to start doing his own "out-of-warranty" services to stay close to the bike's health and save some cash. Two stupid questions - It seems that the moly lube is applied to the splines but not to the u-joint pivot-points themselves, is that correct? Also, I assume the point of this is that the spline joint needs to "travel" (i.e., shorten or lengthen) as the paralever moves up and down and so that's why it needs to stay lubricated - is my understanding correct?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

You are correct on both counts. The uni joint needle roller bearings are “sealed for life” and generally have good life expectancy. The splines need to move to avoid harsh riding characteristics and other issues (harsh gear changes in certain circumstances). Good to hear that you’ll be doing your own maintenance. You will really get to know the bike and get so much out of doing things yourself. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment and ask questions.

@JohnB-wd4my

3 жыл бұрын

Stuck with front spline partial disengagement: Well, I finally got around to having time to try out this preventative maintenance and ran into this (big) problem: When I removed the paralever bolt and rotated the final drive downward to disengage the spline, it seems to have pulled the whole drive shaft backwards from the forward spline - in other words it looks like the forward spline disengaged, not the rear spline. I cannot move it forward again, so I cannot get back to starting position. Now I have to figure out either how to resolve on my own or how to get the bike back (on center stand and without rear wheel...) to shop for professional attention. Ah, the joys of "working on my own bike" at the beginning of my just started semi-retirement. Any quick comments or suggestions?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Jack up the swing arm so it is more or less level and secure it as horizontal as possible. Fold back the boot as best as you can. While protecting the case/frame use a large screwdriver or similar to lever the end of the drive shaft off of the transmission output splines. It can take quite a bit of effort as along with possible corrosion, you will probably be fighting the resistance of the wire clip that holds the shaft in its normal position. By keeping everything as horizontal as possible, you will be minimising resistance on the splines. Let me know how you go.

@JohnB-wd4my

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks for the quick feedback, I will give it a shot in next day or two.

What about the front spline? I have seen them rust as well. Have you ever experienced standing water in there?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

I personally have not seen the fronts rust but just give the shaft a firm pull when the FD is dropped down and that will release the securing ring so that the shaft can be removed for inspection (unless it’s rusted on and then it’s more difficult ☹️). I have ridden in very heavy rain for long periods and there has never been water in my unit. Hope that helps and thanks for watching the video and asking your questions.

Hi sir, thanks for this precious info. Last year, I bought a GS1250 2022 which I never use offroad or on salty roads…only rain occasionnally. My question: in order to prevent rust on the rear spline, should I regularly apply the appropriate grease on the boot…how about the front spline? Prevention is my philosophy! Thanks again! Marc, Quebec Canada. 😉🏍

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Congratulations on your GS. You may or may not be aware that BMW have apparently fitted a one way valve to the drive shaft housing in an effort to prevent the corrosion problems of the past and I’m fairly sure that your bike will have one fitted. IMO however, there is no problem, if for nothing more than peace of mind, in checking the lubrication on the final drive splines and periodically checking the sealing properties of the boot grease. As has been mentioned frequently in the comments section, the gearbox end splines don’t generally cause issues due to heat from engine and gearbox, their location in the housing and that they are not required to slide as per the FD ones. Hope this helps and thanks for watching the video and asking the questions. Stay safe……and warm.

@marcfalardeau6058

Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much sir, I do have on my GS a one way valve on the drive shaft housing…therefore, no worries! Regards, Marc 😉🏍

@marcfalardeau6058

Жыл бұрын

Hi sir me again, I have just learnt your GSA and my GS have a recall from BMW( manufactured from 2018 to december 2022 more than 18400 bikes around the world) It seems to be a software issue on the gearbox causing a possible rear wheel block. I will speak to my dealer tomorrow…by chance I am not riding it is winter time. Ride safe sir! 😉

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Hi Marc, many thanks for the “heads up” re the software update for the gearbox. I queried BMW Australia today and surprise surprise, they know nothing about any pending software update for my bike. I contacted the dealer about it and likewise, they had no knowledge of it either. You mentioned in your message 18400 bikes between 2018 and 2022 which got me thinking. You being in Canada and that number of machines, indicates that it may be unique to your part of the world so I did a search and it seems that my supposition could be correct. It is mentioned in a couple of places that if landing after being jumped and the rear wheel is going significantly faster or slower, the sudden change in speed upon landing can snap the output shaft from the gearbox. The software update is alleged to fix the problem. How it is supposed to do that eludes me……BUT I am not a BMW engineer and I may have interpreted what I read incorrectly. Mine goes up to the dealer in a week and half to get the one way valve installed. I hate taking my machines to dealers but this is one occasion where I cannot avoid it. Good luck with the update and can you let me know if it is for the snapping output shaft and if not, what? Thanks in advance. Stay safe.

@marcfalardeau6058

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider I got the info yesterday on youtube channel, Kraken’s garage and adventures…his latest posting. Check it out. Good day sir! 🏍😉

Can I ask, What about checking and greasing the drive-end of the drive shaft?

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Your question has been addressed on numerous occasions in the comments. Thanks for watching the video and stay safe.

Ok 👍 Brasil 🇧🇷 Sou Fs motos

When you perform this maintenance, and you have gone as far as you have to go to get this maintenance completed, is there a reason why you didn't just remove the entire universal drive shaft and lubricate the splines on the front part of the universal drive shaft? I plan on doing this maintenance on my 2022 BMW K1600B Grand America this winter, and I would like to know if there is a good reason not to remove the entire universal drive shaft.

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for asking the question but this has been addressed many times previously in the comments section so I’ll steer you there for the answer. Stay safe and enjoy the GA.

Do any other motorcycle shaft drive designs require similar maintenance?

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Most driveshafts require some form of maintenance if you want them to run problem free. Thanks for the question and watching the video.

Easy job to do, common sense to do when you change the final drive oil.

@TheMotorradRider

4 жыл бұрын

Totally agree. It's a good little job for those just starting out doing their own maintenance and building a tool kit. Successfully completing the work would be a great confidence booster for future projects that they may have thought they were not capable of tackling.

Hi! I thinking about paralevel bolt, what do you thing to tight it down after we put bike on wheels and sit on it? It is a rubber bushing inside it? When we tight it when the bike is on central stand, we make „0” position on stand, not on wheel, so they can damege quickly. What You think?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Good question. I think you will find that the paralever brace bolts are torqued by BMW using the method I have used in the video. If you wish to do as you suggest, which appears logical, it would probably work but I personally prefer to adhere (as much as I can), to correct factory methods. My video is provided as a guide only and therefore feel free to modify methods as you see fit. Thanks for watching the video and for asking the question.

I've seen lots of videos on lubing the final drive splines, but why do I not see videos that include the transmission end splines. Isn't that equally important?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Firstly, thanks for watching the video and taking the time to ask your question. The answer to that question is simple......no. The reason being (and this has been mentioned many times on this channel and many other KZread channels) that the gearbox end are 'fixed' splines only and are held in place by a spring clip so that they do not move. The final drive splines however, ARE required to slide and if they don't, can affect the ride quality of the machine as well as causing potential damage to the drive line....hence this video. The gearbox end also benefits from getting heat and also protection from being so close to the engine/gearbox mass thus significantly reducing potential issues, whereas the final drive end is susceptible to water ingress from a possibly poorly sealing flexible boot, condensation build up and being more exposed to adverse conditions (river crossings etc.,) Hope that helps. Stay safe.

Can you not use copper grease for the spline as that's what we use on tractors

@TheMotorradRider

8 ай бұрын

Firstly, thanks for watching the video. Re the copper grease. If you’re happy to use copper grease that’s your choice. I have been on the spanners for >40 years and only used moly on splines and slides and will stick with what I know and what is recommended by the manufacturer. Again, your bike, your choice. Hope that helps. Stay safe

What about the splines on the front side gearbox end of the bike?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

The front splines rarely cause issues and are not required to move unlike the ones on the FD end.

I need to take courage for adjust the valves, this realy make fear. But right now i only have 15.000km. Think about this when a got 20.000km

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

It’s not a hard job and you will more than likely find that the valve clearances are spot on when you do check them. If you are worried about doing the work, practice on the little jobs like the final drive shaft lubrication to build your confidence before tackling the valves. Prepare yourself, take your time and you will be fine. Thanks for watching the video and for your kind words. Stay safe.

Hi good video but my shaft has pulled out from the engine end. Is this a major problem to re-attach it?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and for watching the video. The gearbox end of the shaft is secured on the gearbox output shaft splines by a spring clip and should relocate easily. Apply a small amount of grease (after cleaning the splines as best you can) before refitting and making sure the spring clip has located. Hope that helps and stay safe.

@computerillustration

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Hi, I sorted it thanks, it wasnt easy but put some string through the front UJ (as you recommended for the rear one) to lift and direct it and kept the back end up and horizontal with more string, then tapped with a rubber hammer when just about aligned. Four hands helped! Couldnt have done the job without your help!

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it went well. Often the splines align easily at the gearbox end but sometimes luck is just not with us and the UJ and shaft don’t want to play well together. 4 hands can be helpful as well 😉. Stay safe

They were completely seized on my 3yr old GS. Bmw couldn't split them using heat, and a slide hammer! They Quoted £2300 parts and £260 labour, to fix. After a lot of complaining BMW coughed up the parts as a 'Good Will' warranty claim. So this can potentially save you ALOT of money, AND the ride is so much smoother now, the splines are no longer seized!!

@TheMotorradRider

3 жыл бұрын

Those figures are frightening and show just how important this procedure can be with just a little time and effort from the owner. It was good that BMW helped out with the bill (as I believe they should considering the age of the bike at the time) otherwise that would have hurt the hip pocket big time. Also, most people don’t realise how much harshness seized splines introduce to the drive train and consequently the quality of the ride, until the problem is rectified. I’m really pleased yours got sorted and appreciate you taking the time to share the costs with others so that they can appreciate the potential expense if neglected.

What about the other end of the drive shaft? Shouldn't be checked and also greased?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

First of all thanks for watching the video and taking the time to ask your question. This has been broached and answered on many previous occasions in the comments. The reason that the gearbox end splines do not need checking is that they are rarely, if ever, exposed to moisture and they are not required to move unlike the final drive end which are required to move, can be exposed to moisture and if they don’t slide, can affect the ride. Hope that this clears up your question. Stay safe.

@ahsisti

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Thanks for your time to answer. I just got my 1st GS Adv 1250 and I will use your videos to do my maintenance. Thanks again and greetings from Brazil.

Like brand new, many miles ?

@TheMotorradRider

2 жыл бұрын

3500 klms

Hi there, I've watched this a few times and I've been able to re-couple the rear drive, but the paralever bolt is always a few centimeters out, so I can't screw that bolt back in, Is there any way of closing that gap? Cheers!

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

Hi, I’ve not experienced that problem in all the times that I have performed this task. The two reasons (and I stand to be corrected by the experts) that I can think of why your paralever is out of alignment is that the cardan joint has dropped at an angle to the shaft and the splines are binding. It may appear that everything is located correctly but at the very last second during the alignment process, it (the cardan joint), may have dropped slightly causing the problem. The other reason could be that the output shaft from the gearbox (the shaft that the cardan joint slides onto) has become unclipped from the gearbox end and has moved out towards the rear of bike. Simply gently pulling on the output shaft will determine if this is case or not. Hope this helps and let me know how you go.

@f220spyder

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Hi again, thank you for your response, I have checked the shaft by pulling on it, and it does not slide out, The splines seem to align and connect as I can rotate the brake disc and can see the shaft rotating, One previous attempt saw the shaft knocking against the top of the housing on rotation, so perhaps the splines are connected, but not enough?

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

@@f220spyder The last statement certainly indicates to me that the cardan is not going onto the splines correctly and causing the misalignment. Check the splines on the shaft and cardan joint for any debris that may be causing a binding issue. A very small piece of debris can create a problem.

@f220spyder

Жыл бұрын

@@TheMotorradRider Yep, you were absolutely right, the teeth on the universal joint side needed to be cleaned out with a small pick, regreased everything and spent an hour working it back together, Thank you for your help!!

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

You are most welcome and I’m really pleased you fixed the issue. The really good thing to come out of this is that you are certain that the splines on both shaft and cardan are in tip top shape with minimal backlash. You’ve done a top job and thanks for keeping in touch. Enjoy the ride and stay safe.

Wouldnt be easier if BMW just added a grease nipple without having to strip completly

This video was posted in 2020, it is now 2022 and there is a major recall for these bikes for the same issue!! LOL Way to go BMW for using recycled parts in all of your vehicles and motorcycles. Hayes calipers and not Brembo was and still is another bad decision by BMW MOTORRAD. Hey BMW Executives, Stop cutting corners for profit.

Now that I seen how easy this job actually is if I ever get another bike it probably will be a GS1250

@TheMotorradRider

Жыл бұрын

You wouldn’t regret a GS. Great bikes and solid reliability. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment. Stay safe.