What a great video ! Thanks so much ! Crystal clear. Not sure how to adjust the throttle stop screw on my 1996 F-350 with the 351 Windsor. Gonna install the Standard brand TPS tomorrow. Its really superb how you answer questions from comments ! EXCELLENT !!

@MazdaB3K

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for the comment! I don't remember if I put it in this video, but you can adjust the throttle stop screw using a multimeter as long as you have the new TPS attached. You can backprobe the signal wire going to the TPS and it will give a number in volts. I don't remember the range but you should have a certain number with the no throttle. Adjust the throttle stop screw until that voltage number is achieved. I had to do that with Ty. In fact, I think I made a video about that... kzread.info/dash/bejne/qqVqx9pymbnNZM4.html

Liked and subscribed. Well done brother. Ill be doinh this this weekend. I replaced the iac but my idle still pulses and damn near dies out. Been putting off the TPS but i know thats what needs to be done. Thanks for the video

@MazdaB3K

7 күн бұрын

Thanks for the sub! TPS isn't horrible on this truck. Just make sure you get the idle position on the sensor right.

@mre912

7 күн бұрын

@@MazdaB3K thanks bro

Awesome video!!! Thank you!

@MazdaB3K

11 ай бұрын

Glad the video could help you out.

Hi buddy! Nice video! I have an issue with my f150 4.9 After 30 minutes drive it starts to idle roughly, i replaced the module that is on top of the driver tire, relays, distributor, map sensor, and the intake air temperature sensor. Check my iac valve and have 11 ohms of resistance, but when the truck starts to fail if i unplug the iac valve nothing happens, even without it starts really well. I almost forgot, when it starts to idle rough i turn off the truck and wait 30 secs and turn on again and starts awesome. Didn’t know the fail at all, I’m hoping thats not an ecu issue :/ Have a great day (sorry for my bad english)

@MazdaB3K

11 ай бұрын

Generally if you unplug an IAC valve and nothing happens to engine operations the valve is bad. It is very important that you replace the IAC vavle with a Motorcraft one if you can get your hands on it. Ford engines are very picky about their IAC valves and do not like the 3rd party ones. Since the issue is rough idle, I'd check on the following: 1. Check the electrical connection for the IAC Valve. Inspect for corrosion, damaged wires, loose contacts, etc 2. Trace those wires back to the ECU. Make sure you don't see anything burnt, broken, etc. 3. Make sure your current IAC valve is cycling correctly. Take the valve off but leave it plugged in. Put the key in the run position. If you are fast enough you should see the IAC valve move as it does a self-test. Alternatively you can do a Key On Engine Off(KOEO) Test via a scan tool to check this. 4. Check for vacuum leaks. As this seems to happen once the engine is warm, something could be opening up with heat. With the engine cold but running, you can spray some carb cleaner around various connections to see if you get a change in engine sound. Be careful doing this. Once the engine warms up you can't do this as you could start an engine fire. Also, carb cleaner will eat through plastic and rubber lines, so spray wisely. 5. Check the capacitors of the ECU. Remove the ECU and then carefully open the lid. Do you see any capacitors (cylinder looking things standing up from the circuit board) that look burnt, bulging or have dried puddles of goo around them? I'm assuming you have a 90's Ford. Bad capacitors are the number one cause of ECU weirdness on that era of Ford. I'd try working through that list and see what you find.

Sometimes I’ll floor it and it will sputter for 1 second and take off with no tire spin and some times I’ll roast the tires for 10 feet and no missfire is this the tps

@MazdaB3K

5 ай бұрын

Very much could be. It's worth doing a few checks and seeing if the voltage reading on the TPS is out of spec.

I see some sort of tiny rubber seal down in the hole below the old TPS sensor attachment. Does anyone know what that seal is for?

@MazdaB3K

10 ай бұрын

If you email me a pic at mazdab3k@gmail.com I'll take a look at it.

@knightowl2016

10 ай бұрын

I figured it out. lol, It was a circular piece of plastic that had broken off from the original TPS plastic apparatus that is attached by screws to the throttle body. But also, since one of my screws broke off, I've been unable to find a replacement for them in Canada. Which means an extra cost to have them shipped from the States.

@MazdaB3K

10 ай бұрын

That... is poopy. Have you checked www.rockauto.com to see if they have any Canadian warehouses they ship from?

@knightowl2016

10 ай бұрын

@@MazdaB3K After receiving my 2 screws in the mail, it turned out they didn't even fit my 1990 ford f250 throttle body. Waste of time and money. It would be nice if they included 2 new screws with every TPS. However, after digging through various old screws in my garage I've collected over many years, I eventually found one that fit, even though it was a little shorter. Added a tiny lock washer and "voila". Put it together and installed the throttle body to the engine. Thanks for the video, which made it so much easier for me to reassemble. 🙂

@MazdaB3K

10 ай бұрын

@@knightowl2016 I'm really glad the video helped. I just had to replace another TPS, same era of Ford on a project I'm filming right. I actually referenced my video because I'd forgotten how to do it lol

How would I remove the linkage to the accelerator?

@MazdaB3K

3 күн бұрын

If I remember right the throttle linkage is a ball type linkage that should pop off if you pull the linkage opposite of the ball.

@stankonatananic-pp9pv

2 күн бұрын

@@MazdaB3K Thanks! Very helpful!

I have a 93 F 150 with the 351. It’s idling crazy high, and goes down to normal when I unplug the IAC. I replaced it with a new IAC but still has the idle problem. Sometimes goes to normal, sometimes still way too high. Drives decent but if you floor it, it doesn’t feel like it’s opening up. TPS?

@MazdaB3K

7 ай бұрын

If when you unplug the IAC or choke off the air to the IAC and your idle returns to normal, you still have an IAC problem. I've gotten bad IACs out of the box before for this era of truck. Make sure you get a motorcraft IAC if possible. Many of the aftermarket ones just will not work with 90's Fords. Make sure the IAC is getting the air it needs and you don't have any sort of vacuum leaks on the flow to the IAC. I'd also grab an OBD1 reader and check for codes.

@larrythomas3624

7 ай бұрын

@@MazdaB3K Thank you! I hate to admit it, but I didn’t know an OBD1 reader was a thing! I have OBD2, but I thought otherwise it was paper clips and counting flashes. Ordering the OBD1 immediately. I am wondering if the new IAC is crap. Really helpful, thanks for the advice and for just replying!

@MazdaB3K

7 ай бұрын

I try to reply to every meaningful comment that is posted to my videos so no worries. The OBD1 port should be located up near the firewall on the driver's side of the engine bay. More specifically, there should be a bank of relays in the area (fuel, towing, EEC) and the OBD1 connector should be near them. The vehicles are a bit younger, but I had to go through two IACs before I got one that worked right for my 2001 Ford F250. I managed to find the motorcraft one in that case. For my 1997 E-150, I had to go with an Autozone Duralast IAC, which appears to be working for now. A basic IAC test you can do is to remove the IAC from the throttle body and flip it upside down so that you can see the actual valve. Cycle the key in the ignition. If you don't see the valve move during the little self test it runs then, the IAC is bad. When you get your OBD1 reader in, it should perform a similar test when you do a KOEO (Key On Engine Off) test. One thing to keep in mind is the OBD1 isn't that great for trouble codes. It will flag stuff that is flagrantly broken, but stuff can break and it won't trip a check engine light. I had a '94 Ranger with both O2 sensors bad and there was no code from the computer. Your best bet is to get a known good valve from somewhere and swap it in for a quick test. I did a bit of digging for you and I have sourced a motorcraft IAC for your year and engine: www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/ford/f150/fuel_injection/idle_control_valve.html?rp=idle_air_control_valve Also at RockAuto: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1993,f-150,5.8l+v8,1122107,fuel+&+air,idle+air+control+(iac)+valve,6072 Let me know how it goes for you.

@larrythomas3624

7 ай бұрын

@@MazdaB3K Way above and beyond!! Thank you again! That is super helpful. It’s irritating to buy a new part that that doesn’t work out of the box, but it wouldn’t be the first time. Subscribed, Liked, and anything else positive I can find to click! Thanks again.

@MazdaB3K

7 ай бұрын

No worries, I'm happy to help. Best thing you can do is spread the word about the channel and just watch videos. Watch time is the main driver of revenue that allows me to work on more stuff which I can then make videos about. Optionally I also have super thanks turned on, which allows you to donate to me in a few different ways. I also just turned on channel memberships which helps. Truly though just spreading the word is more than enough.

I can’t get my holes to line up on my tps and when I move them to line up it idle to high please help me I have taken this on and off two times now still have high idle

@MazdaB3K

Жыл бұрын

Are you sure that you don't have any vacuum leaks or anything causing the high idle? The TPS can also be adjusted via the stop screw. If someone messed with that screw in the past the correct position of the TPS could be too high. That was exactly the case on my brother's truck. We had to adjust the stop screw to bring the TPS back into a normal range for idle. In order to figure out where the TPS is in its range, you can use a multimeter to check voltage going into it. At idle, the TPS should read somewhere between .95-.99 volts. Another thing to check into is timing. We had the engine slightly off time, off enough it required the TPS to be too high in order to idle, but close enough that the truck would start but it had no power. Once we fixed the base timing the truck went from idling at around 850 rpm to 2.5k rpm because the TPS was way too high. After adjusting the stop screw to bring it back to .98V the truck now idles back at 850 rpm again. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.

@stevegeorge3903

Жыл бұрын

​@@MazdaB3K how do you adjust the timing?

@MazdaB3K

Жыл бұрын

@@stevegeorge3903 Ooooo... that's a loaded question. The most simple answer is on something with a distributor(dizzy) you loosen the hold down bolt located next to the dizzy shaft then slowly rotate the dizzy clockwise or counterclockwise to advance and retard the timing. Normally this would be done with the spout connector disconnected so that you can work on your base timing. As you are rotating you would use a timing light connected to the number 1 spark wire to set the timing by referencing the timing marks on your harmonic balancer. This all assumes your timing is close enough the engine will run. If you needed to set initial timing (engine not running), that involves lining up the timing marks on your harmonic balancer and then aligning the dizzy as needed. This can involve removing the dizzy enough from the block that you can swing the cam gear around by rotating the button(rotor). If you need to set timing and and can't trust the timing marks on your harmonic balancer, then you have to pull a spark plug and find Top Dead Center (TDC) of cylinder 1, then align the button on the dizzy to where your cylinder 1 spark wire connects on your dizzy cap. Not sure which aspect of set timing you need to know about. I have a video about replacing the spout connector so you can find it and disconnect it. I also have a video that very briefly covers removing and replacing a dizzy. I also intend to make a video on how to set base timing when you can't trust the harmonic balancer. I hope that answers your question.

@stevegeorge3903

Жыл бұрын

I watched the one on the spout timer . I found that when I was doing the TPS. I read somewhere if you unplug it and you still don't have anything when you floor it it may be the pick up coil. I've got a 87 Ford Econoline 150 with a 302 and it's been giving me fits. Just about the time I think it's safe to put the engine cover on it starts falling on it's face. It's got good spark but to get it running in the morning I had to rig up a little catch up bottle to a hose to the intake to squirt a little gas in and it takes right off. It just started falling on it's face when you push it to the floor. Shoot I could go on forever I want to take anymore of your time. Thanks for your videos I enjoy them.

@MazdaB3K

Жыл бұрын

@@stevegeorge3903 Hmm... is your Engine coolant temperature sensor working? On computer controlled engines that sensor acts as the choke. If your choke isn't working that would affect the ability to start the engine. Before you check anything though, you need to verify your base timing. My brother's truck would idle fine but had 0 power, it couldn't even move on flat ground at full throttle. We checked the base timing and found that it was waaaay off. It was close enough for the engine to idle, but that was it. Once you verify base timing, then you can start troubleshooting sensors and the like. Have you put a timing light on your balancer when it's running to see what timing you are set at with the spout connector disconnected?