If you were only replacing the seal you could have marked the pinion nut & the flange & then worked out from the mark on the old nut how far from the thread start on the new nut you needed to make a mark. Or alternatively used thread locker on the old nut & put it back so the marks lined up. That of course assumes the preload was correct before hand! I’m enjoying this series, I have a 1968 +2 & will at some point have to replace the seals (currently not leaking). I also have the CV conversion from Mick Miller, which was the best money I have spent on the Elan. I’m also really enjoying your tooling to remove bearings etc & to break the taper. It seems a shame that the maker of the preload tool didn’t open up the centre, so that you didn’t have to take it off to tighten the pinion nut. One question on the rear handbrakes, the two little tabs that bolt on are they supposed to be sprung to keep the pads off of the discs, mine had no spring in them?

@georgekerr265

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There should be a compression spring slid over the handbrake adjusting rod to keep the handbrake pad levers from exerting any pressure on the disk when the handbrake is released.

rather than buying the preloaderr, couldn't you have used a bolt through the hole and the digital scale? cheaper and just as effective?