Wish they would've showed this from the get go lol. Thanks for sharing

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

No problem 👍

Thanks for the video. It's something I've been wondering and I've seen the lip designed into the belay loop section but hadn't seen that the button was a rocker. I think given the aspects you've mentioned it will be safe enough since you'd need 3 things to go wrong - press the button far enough in the right spot, wiggle past the belay loop and lift the side plate. In every situation I can think of (which are admittedly fairly basic) at least one of those things isn't going to be happening.

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

Glad the video was helpful! That's the basic premise of why I feel comfortable using it.

I’m getting one for tree work and will just have a little biner behind the attachment point

Awesome content! Thanks!

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

Glad you liked it!

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

We love your content also!!!

Beeners can open from route friction as well - even screw type. I don't see a major risk here. Using the traditional attachment comes with it's own risks - non locked beener, rope twisted mistake in rope direction.

Basically zero chance I would trust this for LRS without a biner through that loop. Could still use the belay loop attachment point and put a small biner through as a backup.

Appreciate the conversation points! I’ll stick with a triple lock carabiner on my Grigi style devices. Do you have any concerns of excess wear on the belay loop?

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

I wouldn't have any concerns. But I generally don't keep my harnesses for as long as most people, just because we're always getting new ones to test. I've heard from the Edelrid designers that they did extensive testing and didn't find any difference compared to a carabiner. But only using it for a looooong time will tell.

you can put a carabiner tru the pinch metal ring while connected to belay loop: you'll still have the devide close to the body and have ZERO chance of opening it not even intentionally. You'll have to remove FIRST the carabiner and then open the PINCH

@TrueHelpTV

2 ай бұрын

but will it have enough displacement when it partially opens and then is halted by the carabiner to let the sheath of the rope bind into the PINCH and then be able to damage the rope during say a 4-6KN fall. Or will it give just enough clearance on the cam to let smaller ropes break the coefficient of friction and fall. My gut says people get hurt on these as is, and it deserves a screw gate or spring loaded pull pin added.

Well, yes - it took him a fraction of the time it takes me to detach my belay locking biner, and he barely twisted it, not at all the 90 degree rotation as described by Edelrid. And in actual use, devices are simply not under any tension, most of the time. Just watch others in the gym, and see slack hanging, devices limp on the harness. Another long video shows the interviewer casually removing a loaded Pinch from the belay loop with no twist, just an inch of slack in the loop. Worst, earlier in the video the company rep admitted their earlier design had a three-step release, but dropped that as being "too complicated." Which is precisely what the UIAA has advocated for every belay carabiner, in order to minimize the chances for accidental opening. First Law of Rare Events: If anything can happen, it WILL happen. If this isn't rectified, I predict recalls, or else lawsuits.

My concern would be that one opens it when feeding rope and pressing on the cam where the index finger is on the lip the middle finger is right where the bottom is.

@vitoralves422

2 ай бұрын

if you thumb is on the Cam it would also be on top of the sideplate, preventing it from opening unless you block the cam some other way

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

That’s what I was concerned about as well, but when using it the mechanics of how the device moves when using it make it practically impossible for that to happen. In theory could it happen, yes. But as soon as you put the device in the system with a rope and your hands on the rope, it becomes difficult to manipulate the device in a manner the makes it possible to press the button and have the device not pushing against the belay loop. But everyone has their own levels of risk tolerance and shouldn’t let anyone else (including us) tell them what is “safe enough”.

They also recommend in the manual that you can add the locking carabiner on top of this so there’s two functional locks. You can have redundancy in your belay clip. Kinda neat.

This is fine for its main purpose of belaying the leader, its questionable when belaying the second as I often find the gri trying to sideload on slabby anchors. I would not carry this on every trip, as for instance long easy multi pitch simulclimbs, this scenario I wouldn't trust it as much as a gri

@mrtriathlondude

24 күн бұрын

This device is able to be clipped at 90° angles, so that may solve the issue of side loading while belaying from the top

Seems like it might be awkward to rack and unrack without using a biner. What was your impression of that aspect?

@WeighMyRack

2 ай бұрын

I've found that it's pretty easy and quick to get used to it. It's definitely different, but the muscle memory gets developed pretty fast.

Just to be clear, the question is: can it be opened with that button while the cam is loaded, e.g. engaged: rope holding my climbing partner hanging in the air? Note: accidents come not from "proper belay technique". When in doubt you can use a biner just like with any other device...khmmm.. seriously??!

Everyone has tried and failed to replicate and improve upon the Gri Gri. Hasn't happened yet.

@WeighMyRack

Ай бұрын

So far, I actually like the Pinch better than the GriGri. Attaching the device to your belay loop actually does make a difference in belay experience. Maybe not for everyone, but I applaud companies who continue to make attempt to make things better for climbers.

@skillbugbeet

Ай бұрын

@@WeighMyRack I dont blame anyone for trying, but I don't believe anyone will steal the market share that Petzl has.

Dear God this is Death -15 year Radio Tower Specialist *@Edelrid you should add a little spring loaded pull pin on the gate so it can't swing open unless you pull the pin to release the swinging side while simultaneously pushing the button. To preserve the ability to make it a one handed operation, the pull pin could have an added feature where you pull to release the gate, but you can pull then twist the pin to lock it in the open position. Relying on the rope to be what prevents the gate from swinging open should the button get depressed means you're now also relying on the stiffness and diameter of the rope in addition to the weight on the rope which might actually make it easier to flip the gate off the rope, or if its taking a side loaded fall and needs the rope to save the day because now your alignment to make the feature even work is gone on a side loaded fall with a panicked person death gripping and squeezing the button. PLEASE add a secondary lock feature that requires the user to enact a force to the device which is opposite of the button. IE you need a force from the left to push the button, you need a force from the right to pull the pin.. no nobody will death grip it during a fall and open it, or side load it, button pops and the gate bypasses the rope and swings open.. But hey, I would love to play with one if youll send me one to test and send you some ideas.

"On accident", is that an Americanism?

"Every device has its own modes of failures" why is this so normalized with climbing gear? For all its flaws, the one thing the Revo got right is having the only failure mode be catastrophic destructive failure. If you're going to bring a new device to market, why not try and fix all the existing failure modes that are out there? Ex. Grigri requiring an override of the cam while paying out quickly, or the Vergo failure mode where a carabiner wraps around it weird. It is nice that you can just attach with a carabiner like normal I guess, but then what's the advantage over a grigri? Left handed operation I guess?

@plasmasquid

Ай бұрын

Petzl Neox seems to do all of the above