Thanks for the video. Videos are always better than instructions on paper.

When I purchased my 1992 E36 last year, it would start briefly when sprayed with starter fluid and the clutch wouldn't disengage - I got a great deal knowing I could fix it myself. When I removed the fuel pump - the hose and wire insulation were disintegrated, plastic and dirt were floating in the fuel tank, if I simply replaced the fuel pump it would fail quickly from the particulate in the fuel. I siphoned out as much of the old fuel as possible then poured 5 gallons of soapy water both sides of the tank - then I reached into the tank and scrubbed with a green Scotch-Brite dish scrubber - I needed to dislodge any pieces of plastic bits and dirt from the walls of the fuel tank without damaging the walls of the tank. I purchased a Harbor Freight drill driven pump (less than $5.00) to pump out the dirty water and repeated a few times with clean water and used a towel to dry the tank then flushed again - pumping the water into a white bucket - until there was no dirt in the water. I used a microfiber towel and a shop vac to get as much of the remaining water out as possible. The clutch issue was a master cylinder, it was difficult to replace since I am a big guy - I ended up removing the seat and took my time... I learned a few things Before replacing the failed Fuel Pump and Fuel Level Sending Unit 1 - If possible remove as much fuel as possible before starting the job, it helps if the car is drive-able to drive it until empty. 2 - Vacuum the top of the fuel pump and fuel level sending unit and surrounding area before removing them, this saves you from having dirt falling into the tank. I will be tracking my car so I want to do the fuel system upgrade but the Bimmer World Kit is $389.00 is crazy expensive for two fuel pumps and hoses with fittings...Since my car is an early E36 (1992) I already have the correct Fuel Pump with the external siphon hose - so I just need to buy another fuel pump, hoses, fittings and Power Connector. This upgrade will be one more step in prepping for the track This winter I replaced the brakes, installed wheel studs, front struts and rear shocks, springs, front and rear sway bars, front A arms, and bushings, Rear RTAB Bushings, and rear outer rubber bushings with spherical bearings. I installed a front x brace, fabricated a seat mount for a carbon fiber race seat and for now I have a harness bar - later I will cage the car. I completed fabrication of a mounting plate in the dash for the Battery Kill switch. To make it more reliable I replaced the water pump, radiator, radiator hoses, belt and belt tensioners, installed an electric fan, spark plugs, and plan to replace injectors later this year. I hope this helped

@Carpythesharky

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome info! Yes, if you have another pump lying around you can daisy chain them like this kit did. Since this was my first time doing it I went with the kit, but in the future I think getting a used pump would be totally fine and a great money saver. The hoses are cheap at your local auto parts store, and you only need about 6 inches of the bigger hose, whereas the kit gives you about a yard lol. Sounds like you kept yourself busy this winter, great to hear! Replacing the water pump and cooling parts is always a very smart preventative maintenance move. You will have an absolute blast on the track, I hope it all goes well for you!! Thanks for the comment.

I keep saying "Fuel Level Sensor." What I really mean is just the pump. You splice the harness into the PUMP wires, because you're adding a pump on the driver's side that didn't used to be there. So just ignore that I keep saying "Fuel Level Sensor." And replace Level Sensor with Pump :). The wiring is still exactly the same as shown, I spliced the harness into the pump harness correctly. I just named it wrong. Timestamps: 00:00 -- Start 00:37 -- Kit Overview 01:35 -- Step One: Prepare Fuel System 03:11 -- Step Two: Accessing the Fuel Pump and Thunder 04:16 -- Step Three: Removing the Fuel Pump 06:16 -- Step Four: Accessing the Driver's Side Fuel Sensor 06:08 -- Step Five: Removing the Driver's Side Fuel Sensor 08:00 -- Step Six: Installing the New Driver's Side Fuel Pump 09:27 -- Step Seven: Installing the Passenger's Side Fuel Pump 09:55 -- Step Eight: Running the Hoses and Connecting the Fuel Pumps 13:55 -- Step Nine: Splicing the Electrical Harness for the New Pump 16:15 -- Step Ten: Test the New Setup

Bro I can’t wait to do this to my e46 hopefully it will work... u are a genius awesome work 🔥🚀🚀🚀🚀😎🤟🏼

@Carpythesharky

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks man! It's fairly straight forward, and the instructions that came with this kit from Bimmerworld were really clear, I'm just someone who likes to see it as well. There are two turns at my local track that with ~1/3 tank of gas I would get starvation. Now I can run without any starvation until my gas light turns on.

Great guide! Does anyone know where to get that connector by itself? I have two fuel pumps already so I just need to gather the hoses, clamps, and that extra connector to wire it up.

Perfect, guy had a sandbag fall out of his truck in front of me had cars to my left and a curb to my right and an idiot tailgating me the jarring from the tank hitting the sandbag on the driverside broke the old siphon setup so sense it needs replaced ill be doing this

Would you know if one of the fuel pumps were to go out? Would 1 working make it go unnoticed?

@Carpythesharky

3 жыл бұрын

Good question. I can't say from experience but my guess would be that you will start to experience fuel starvation at low fuel levels again. Then you can pull the pumps and jump them real quick (I think the Bentley manual outlines this to test your fuel pump) to see which one is working.

I have a question guys... I have the exact same original setup (before this upgrade was done), same color fuel pump housing and same color fuel level sender housing, my problem is that the fuel pump housing has 2 outlets and only 1 outlet has the outgoing fuel line connected to it and the other is just left without anything connected to it, so because of this there is air coming out the tank so the pressure in the tank isn't stable (if stable pressure is needed in the tank that i dont know), Thats 1 part of my concern but after reading posts on forums with this same question there's guys saying that the return line hose has to go there and must be laying around there somewhere between the tank and the rear... but my issue is that the return line from the fuel rail back to the tank is connected on the left side fuel level sender so how do I resolve this? Should I cut the return line at the back near the fuel level sender and hook it up with a T Piece kind of joiner inbetween so I can have 2 return line pipes so the original 1 will remain at the fuel level sender and the other new pipe joined to the original return line can go to the right side to the fuel pump housing??? Is it advisable to do this or how do you guys suggest I do this???

@sivz87

2 жыл бұрын

This is a right hand drive e36 328i 4 door 95-96 model, it could be early 1995 or late 1995 model im not sure