Using an anchor in the piston was magical. to me. Thank you!

Thank you for passing on the knowledge and insight!

Super helpful!! Thank you SO much. My problem is that no matter what method I use I can't extract the piston. It came partway out, to wear the seal could be removed but the second blue plastic ring is stuck. Hi even tried drilling a 3/4-in hole in a block of wood, then slotting the wood on both sides to make a very firm wooden clamp around that piston, I still cannot get the d@#ned piston out! Thank you for an excellent video!!👏👍

Excellent video David - many thanks

@davidcroxson8088

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Kevin, I am pleased you have found it useful.

Exactly what I was looking for as I confront removing the piston, which is, at this initial stage, stuck in place. Thank you for the thorough tutorial.

@davidcroxson8088

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, I hope you are successful and your car is soon back on the road to enjoy the fine summer weather.

Thanks David for such an informative blog. It has solved an issue I have with my master cylinder on my E Type. I watch a lot of KZread and this would be one of the best tutorials I have watched. Thanks again regards Ian Tanner downunder

Thanks David for such an informative tutorial on assembly and disassembly of the master cylinder. I have had a problem with mine for sometime. I now have the knowledge to fix it. I wish all tutorials were as thorough. Thanks again Ian Tanner Downunder

Excellent walk through of the XKE master cylinder. Great tutorial explained in detail with a lot of good tip/tricks for servicing this part. Great job.

David, thank you very much. I thought that perhaps I was incompetent in not being able to remove the main piston assembly. Your detailed description of the difficulty of removing it is very useful. Good to know it's just part of the process, like so many other jobs on these cars.

Very useful video. Thanks for taking the time to make it!

Some viewers may question my placement of the two secondary seal plastic bearing pieces on the piston. Some schematics show the larger blue plastic bearing next to the circlip whilst others show the arrangement of the two pieces reversed with the narrow blue plastic bearing next to the circlip. The former I understand is how the bearing was arranged originally and it appears that subsequent afternarket suppliers have swapped the arrangement around in theur later schematics. From my investigations I have been assured that it doesnt matter which side these two plastic bearings are placed - the key thing is that the concave rubber seal in the centre of the two plastic bearings is correctly positioned and as shown in my video with the concave face towards the lever end if the piston. I have therefore chosen in my video to show the layout as original and as I found my unit was assembled when I stripped it down.

I assume that when the brake pedal is pushed, the small secondary piston pushes against the diaphragm in the reaction valve to release vacuum in the back half of the booster which engages the slave cylinder. My question is, what causes the small secondary piston to retract back into it's bore once the brake pedal is released? It seems that a common problem with these master cylinders is the secondary piston getting stuck. In my case, the brakes on my car were stuck on. A possible contributing factor was that the retainer cup for the large spring was not behind the spirolox circlip when I removed it from the car. It was loose inside the rubber boot cover. I had the mc professionally rebuilt in 2014. I don't know if they assembled it wrong or if it came loose once in use. Thanks, this video is awesome!

Thanks for the really in depth video, great to see everything in such detail. I'm having problems getting my system to charge after a rebuild and I fear that maybe the outlet non-return valve not working and i note that in your video you mention that the trap valve has a little metal collar which mine doesn't have (now) - my valve is just a spring with a plastic cap with a small hole. So my question is, where the little collar sits, is it just a tiny round copper disc that fits in the top of the plastic cap that i could maybe remanufacture? (i definitely don't want to purchase a complete master cylinder just to get this valve). Thanks in advance, Mike

@davidcroxson8088

11 ай бұрын

I am reluctant to offer advice regarding any remanufacture or modification you may be considering as the braking components are such a vital safety element. There are a number of threads on the two Jag forums that may offer you advice and SC Components parent company Limora has a useful guidance sheet which may help and they may well offer more advice than I can give if you contact them. Google search link below: brake master cylinder trap valve from www.flyingspares.com SC Parts www.scparts.co.uk › pdfPDF Brake Master Cylinder with Air Control Valve Withdraw piston complete with bearings, seals, spring and retainers. Remove inlet and outlet port fittings, extract trap valve and spring. Release cylinder body ... 4 pages·2 MB

@user-fl4fd9ke1c

11 ай бұрын

@@davidcroxson8088 thanks for your response and advice, I'll chase up the leads with the companies you suggest - I have the original Jaguar part number for the valve in the outlet port but all the avenues I explored (SNG Barrett, Martin Robey etc) all had it listed as NLA. I've been an e type owner for 25 years now, so I'm used to things not always being easy 🙂

@davidcroxson8088

11 ай бұрын

Jodie, I discussed this with Powertrack Ltd whom I mention in my video and they say they often get enquiries for this part but are unable to supply unfortunately. Your best source is a scrap master cylinder if you can find one, try EBay, the usual Jag Forums and also Welsh Enterprises in Ohio who may have a pre used unit phone: Toll free - (800) 875-5247 Local - (740) 282-8649.