I am a mechanical engineer. This was a good video clearly demonstrating why a torque wrench needs to be applied after a torque stick has been used. I feel everyone should pay close attention to Sherwood. He is on each lug nut briefly as to not to over torque the fastener. The purpose of the torque stick is to get you within range of the final torque. Preferably below range. For further information on the subject I recommend watching the Torque Test Channel, October 7, 2022. They briefly address the topic of the electric impact guns with torque sticks. They also provide great video footage of torque sticks in motion using high speed cameras. There are a number of factors involved establishing proper torque: thread friction, friction between the lug nut and wheel, lubricated studs, dry studs, etc. I feel the manufacturer provides a torque specification for a dry stud (not lubricated) and the car resting on the ground. Look at the torque stick as a spring. The function is based upon the material of construction, cross sectional geometry and length. My compliments for getting the kids involved. This country is short of tradesmen with good troubleshooting skills. It is great to see young people working with their hands and getting dirty.

@fitch8363

6 ай бұрын

Exactly. The Torque Test Channel has a couple of excellent videos on torque sticks and their limitations. What I write below summarizes their findings: The torque stick doesn't replace a torque wrench, it just lets you zip on the nuts tunnel the first pop of the wrench without over torquing. When Sherwood first put the nuts on to a couple of impacts, that was the end of the torque stick's usefulness for those nuts. After that the torque wrench should be used. With continued use the torque stick will wind up and exert greater and greater torque. As your data shows, this effect is intensified by the higher impact frequency of the electric impact. Torque sticks were originally designed for use with air impacts. So just zip the nuts on until the first one or two impact hits and quit, Use the torque wrench after that.

@Conservator.

6 ай бұрын

Great posts from both of you, thanks!👍🙏

@dporrasxtremeLS3

2 ай бұрын

This WAS Awesome! Thanks!

@mcqcjc8409

2 ай бұрын

'' I feel the manufacturer provides a torque specification for a dry stud (not lubricated) and the car resting on the ground. '' What kind of mechanical engineer torques cars wheels with car resting on he ground? Secondly u can overtighten bolts and nuts by up to 40% without any visible damage - maybe it would make damage if u changed your wheels 1000 times each .

I am a shop owner and really appreciate the “care factor” of your team. Especially, when you clarify they are on flat rate. Your team focuses on the “why” and works together. I would be your customer if I lived in GA.

As a technician myself, I have also adopted the light impact style with a torque wrench follow-up. It is a good method, and the other techs in my shop have also adopted this (sometimes against their will lol). If I remember correctly torque sticks are supposed to be used in the same manner, however they are supposed to stop you from going over. You still have to properly torque the lug nut with a torque wrench. I've seen them being used as a crutch so to speak, and I've heard many techs over the years say that is good enough. I don't believe that and I'm not going to. Torque wrench on a lug nut is the ONLY way in my opinion. I also primarily use Air except when i'm working outside. I personally think the electric impacts are really heavy and they just don't give you the feel that an air impact does. Everyone is different, maybe one day I'll switch, but for now im sticking with air. On the other hand all my other air tools have been replaced with electric tools. Awesome video! Thanks for all that you do to keep the automotive industry honest, and help spread the message that a lot of techs/shop genuinely want to do the right thing!

👍Great video! 100% correct way to tighten lug nuts is with a calibrated torque wrench and never with an impact directly. From my experience I NEVER TRUST A SHOP anymnore! On Honda products grossly over tightening wheel nuts will 100% warp rotors, wheel flanges. Not instantly but over a few months people will start to notice pulsating brakes. I can only imagine over the years millions of unsuspecting customers had to have brake jobs because of the work done by incompetent or dishonest shops. When wheels are tightened to specification, Honda rotors don't warp. The same is true of most vehicles. Most all shops just ram it down to 250+ lb ft with a gun , call it good, and say torqued wheels on the invoice. My wife's Honda Odyssey got a flat from a road hazard and I went out to change it. Could not get the lug nuts loose even when a bystander and I together tried to loosen it. It just twisted the lug wrench. I had to go home and get my Snap On breaker bar with a long cheater pipe to get the wheel nuts loose. When I got home I loosed all wheel nuts with a impact. I could barely get them loose! Then torqued properly with a wrench. I just put new premium rotors and pads on my Rigdeline and they worked perfectly. That is until I had the 2 front tires replaced. Within 3 months the front rotors were warped. Then I realized and checked the lug nuts and they were grossly over tightened. The invoice said "Torque wheels to spec." I have been burned to many times by crappy work done by shops from cross threaded drain plug, over tightened oil filters, over tightened or loose spark plugs, bad alignments, you name it. Virtually everything a shop has done has been loused up in some way or another. I do all my own maintenance and repairs now, Saves money but more importantly it is done correctly. Unfortunately from my experience the automotive repiar industry's has a reputation of doing poor quality work and taking advantage of unsupecting customers. "Trust but verify" is a saying that also applies to anyone having work done to their vehicle or they will likely get screwed.

Even in this day and age many still don't follow basic procedure like correct torque and clean, flat mounting surfaces. The few extra minutes not only separates you as a professional, but eliminates untold problems down the road. (Or sooner). Good video. Al

I've been taught when using torque sticks to watch when the socket stops moving and not to keep hitting it past that point or the impacts can actually overtorque it.

Back about 40 or so years ago the local tire store, and others I'd wager, used the impact to run the nuts up and then check the torque with a torque wrench. On my way home the rotor was warped. I drove it that way understanding that the wheel was "torqued". Having had drum brakes on all 4's before that the impact gun was never an issue. Interesting video. Thanks. P.S. I'm over here from South Main. One thing I have to say is that eye protection is a good thing when you're using an air impact. P.P.S. Air impacts only.

Uk guy here. Been working on old land rovers for years. I use a low power electric gun with an impact socket to snug the wheel nuts down, then use the torque wrench.

We own a tire shop (Ingham Family Tire) here in Mason, MI and purchased torque sticks thinking they'd save us time on the installs. Thankfully we have enough sense to not to take "as advertised" at face value. After running through a series of test, we have concluded that torque sticks are (1) Unreliable in the amount of torque being applied, and (2) On multiple occasions torqued dangerously low compared to the stick's rating. For example of an 80 ft lb torque stick, we were reliably (at 150psi, the spec for the sticks,) torqueing down to only 46-65 ft lbs. After the series of tests we ran, we concluded that torque sticks are garbage... Dangerous (due to under-torqueing,) and add liability (due to potential over-torqueing or under-torqueing). Stick what has been tried and true: Use a torque wrench, and ensure you have someone else double-checks your work.

Electric impacts have a higher impact rate which doesnt allow the torque stick to flex back properly, which is what causes the overtorque compared to air impact guns

Thanks for taking the time out of your weekend to so this. My default method was impact them on loosely, lower the car then go around it twice with the torque wrench. If the nut didn't move, it'd get backed off and then done with the torque wrench. Eventually went to torque sticks with the Milwaukee electric. Definitely didnt feel right compared to having used torque sticks with air many years ago. After a bit of testing had concluded that electric beats too quickly on the torque stick and will definitely lead to going a fair bit past the rating of the stick. Have reverted back to original method and i sleep better at night! 😅 I'd be curious to see what torque stick manufacturers have to say about using the more modern electronic impacts on them. For now, I'll join the club and spend the extra minute or two and know it's done right. 🙂

Ive been a mechanic for 36 years…, 100 percent agree with you! Quality, safety first., I snug them and then hand torque the wheels( The correct way) keep smiling

Twenty years ago when I owned a shop, we used torque sticks. I bought a name brand, don't remember which, from one of the guys in a tools truck. The first instruction that came with the set was how to calibrate the impact gun. The sticks are only accurate when the input torque from the gun is at a specified value. If the input torque is too high, the stick twist will not be able to absorb the excess torque. An aside: I think your run an excellent operation. I'll bet for you "The Right Way" is the "Only Way".

Good job. You are a dedicated mechanic

I agree with your system 100% just drive by a tire shop and listen to the way they tighten wheels and we could go about the stories of wheel lugs we have replaced because of over torquing not to mention rotors keep up the good work I’m encouraged thank you very much god bless

@ronaldshank736

11 ай бұрын

Agreed they pound the heck out of them, I took a car to get a set of tires and they started yell break out the heat wrench, I said your not using that on my car are you? He said yeah you got locking lugs, I said the keys in the trunk with the spare, he said we can't find it, so I showed him it was on the lug wrench 😂

Another method to perform the test is to use one of the snap-on products that track and capture "peak torque" measurements. Products like Snap-On TorqCheck (a torque wrench calculator) or Snap-On's ControlTech Micro (a really smart torque wrench), can truly simplify the test. All that needs to be done is do a calibration run with the Snap-On tools to identify true torque versus break-away torque for the tire lug. Torque the lug down to a specified value then set the snapon wrench to a mode to capture peak torque. This way, you'll know what the break away torque is upon loosening the lug. Note the original actual torque and peak torque differences for this is what you subtract from the measurements taken for each torque stick or torque stick/impact wrench combination to arrive at actually torque. Once you know that, just use the Snap-On torque wrench to drive the torque stick to your target value. If the if the torque stick under test 'taps out' prior to the Snap-On tool, then it is under torquing. If it taps-out after the Snap-On tools, then it is over torquing. The by loosening the lug using the Snap-On tool (set to peak torque mode), you can subtract the breakaway torque difference learned in the first step above. That will be torque sticks accuracy in comparison to the Snap-On tool. I do not work for Snap-On or own any of their tools (way to pricey for a DIY'er). Nor am I a automobile or service repair expert. Just an old engineer that loves to solve problems. I'm hoping Snap-On would lend you one of these torque tools so you can enlighten us with your findings. Many thanks for your wonderful videos... marcel

Haven’t watched video yet. But as a shop owner it’s torque wrench only for us. Going to watch!

Had a Goodyear dealership "forque" me yrs. ago and strip 3 studs, I hand thread, use a 3/8"speed handle and torque to manufacturers specs. Another GOOD Video! It adds 1 min per wheel! Your dead nuts ON as Always! Keep up the good work!

Thanks for this. You don't appreciate torqueing the lug nuts on properly until after you've had a wheel come off at freeway speeds because the studs all sheared off like I have had. Fortunately, I had 19 other wheels (10-axle semi), but it was a little nerve wracking seeing a 500-lb wheel rolling down the road past me possibly causing an accident on the dark, steep canyon freeway I was on.

Great to see Tristan & Michael learning from the master! 👍🏼

im a certifed marine tech. In our shop we do the same. elec or air gun run in the nut. than torque wrench. Trailer than gets road tested if all good upon inspection it is retorqued than vessel is washed and detailed.... nowadays with alloy and special types of materials the wheels are made off. Proper torque to spec is required. They aint steel wheels of yester years, back than i used air and still got my full set off snap on sticks still in my toolbox (aint used them for 20yrs).

I wish we highlight that the importance of proper torquing is really about Customer Safety. Most lug nuts I've encountered are OVER torqued because of lack of attention or proper use of tools. When a lug nut is over torqued, it is simply impossible to loosen using the tire iron provided in the car's spare tire's kit; it's usually a cheapo, 12-inch long straight bar with lug socket size. I've been on the side of the road helping friends and family try to take off their flat tire using the car provided tools - mostly failures resulting me my having to go home and return with better wrenches. Imagine doing this on a cold, northeast night - just sucks. My comment on the experiment is KEEP IT SIMPLE. As an engineer, I'd love to see the result using a simpler test: The stated video objective was to "test and compare torque sticks" (I'll abbreviate using t-stick and t-wrench for brevity) Take a calibrated t-wrench, one tire lug, pick one tire lug hole on the wheel and the t-stick you want to investigate. Drive the t-stick with the t-wrench and observe when they each reach the intended torque. Keep adjusting the setting on the t-wrench until they both reach the 'click or beep'. When they do, you'll know what the t-stick's actual torque accuracy is. Do this a few times to get more samples but do not change or introduce anything else into the experiment. If they 'click/beep' at different times, then loosen the lug nut and set the t-wrench to a lower or higher value until they sound off at the same time. The resulting torque value is how much the t-stick differs from the original targeted torque setting. To find the "break-away torque" value for that particular bolt and lug hole setup: (1) Torque the bolt to a set value, (2) paint the head of the lug nut/bolt to help see when it moves (3) slowly increase the torque setting on t-wrench until it "clicks/beeps" at the moment the bolt started rotating. (4) Repeat this several times to know what the break- away torque value is for that combination of lug nut/bolt, and hole. This way you can reduce the impact wrench results by this value The combination of t-sticks and impact tools will be different so each paired combination of these needs to be separately tested as you did. Reduce the value measured by the calibrated t-wrench when the lug first moves by the break-away valued learned in the prior step. I have professional experience designing tests (military products); I understand that it is important to eliminate as many variables as possible that could change the test outcomes - keeping it simple is vital for consistent and dependable results. Hope this helps..m Cheers..marcel

@marcelvillaflor6312

Ай бұрын

My comment on the experiment is KEEP IT SIMPLE. As an engineer, I'd love to see the result using a simpler test: The stated video objective was to "test and compare torque sticks" (I'll abbreviate using t-stick and t-wrench for brevity) Take a calibrated t-wrench, one tire lug, pick one tire lug hole on the wheel and the t-stick you want to investigate. Drive the t-stick with the t-wrench and observe when they each reach the intended torque. Keep adjusting the setting on the t-wrench until they both reach the 'click or beep'. When they do, you'll know what the t-stick's actual torque accuracy is. Do this a few times to get more samples but do not change or introduce anything else into the experiment. If they 'click/beep' at different times, then loosen the lug nut and set the t-wrench to a lower or higher value until they sound off at the same time. The resulting torque value is how much the t-stick differs from the original targeted torque setting. To find the "break-away torque" value for that particular bolt and lug hole setup: (1) Torque the bolt to a set value, (2) paint the head of the lug nut/bolt to help see when it moves (3) slowly increase the torque setting on t-wrench until it "clicks/beeps" at the moment the bolt started rotating. (4) Repeat this several times to know what the break- away torque value is for that combination of lug nut/bolt, and hole. This way you can reduce the impact wrench results by this value The combination of t-sticks and impact tools will be different so each paired combination of these needs to be separately tested as you did. Reduce the value measured by the calibrated t-wrench when the lug first moves by the break-away valued learned in the prior step.

When I worked for Honda, a field service engineer told me personally to use torque sticks that were either made by Honda or made specifically for Honda. Then to use the preset torque wrenches. I was given a 90ft lbs torque wrench for the smaller lugs (I think for all the ones that used 19mm) and I think it was 110ft lbs for the bigger cars. I never got torque sticks but would tighten the lugs at the lowest possible setting on my air impact and would then torque with the preset wrench. I still use air to this day. Call me old school but I feel more comfortable with air.

thanks for this. our volunteer shop trusts the torque sticks on a 1/2 milwaukee cordless. i'll be sure to advocate for a change back to air and following with a torque wrench

I still use an air 1/2 impact. All others, 3/8 impact and ratchets I use both air and cordless, I still use the air occasionally just because I have them. Here in the rust belt the back side of aluminum wheels on vehicles a few years old or older, have to be cleaned every time the wheel comes off or they don't get torqued correctly, either useing torque sticks or torqueing by hand. The corrosion that occurs between the wheel and the rotor actually will make the lugs tighter in some cases too.

Loved this video and I viewed it tonight after buying some new tools recently. Sherwood, you absolutely nailed it, , , er torqued it! I was taught how to torque by locomotive engine mechanical engineers early in my career as a railroad diesel engine instructor. Great bunch of guys trained me at a locomotive manufacturing facility. I also did a side-hustle as an auto mechanic and loved both jobs. The mechanical engineers told me torque wrenches then were about 70% accurate back then. At age 68, about two weeks ago (before I knew of you and subscribed to your channel), I decided it was finally time to try a cordless impact gun. I bought one from Amazon that was compatible to Makita batteries along with a package of torque sticks. The gun was nowhere near the torque advertised and neither were the torque sticks. When I followed up with my torque wrench, I got the same results you did. So, I returned the torque sticks. Since the gun was more of a snugga dugga gun and less of an ugga dugga gun, I returned that too and got a cordless gun with bigger ugga duggas! Love the new cordless gun. I love your channel! Glad I found you guys in the past two weeks. Best Wishes and Take Care, Tom

I’ll add my technique: use a torque stick and impact gun to get you close, but not over, the targeted final torque quickly. Torque sticks are not highly precise instruments, so size down when using them to account for impact gun differences in impacts per minute, hammer mass and how that particular impact gun will interact with a given torque stick torsional stiffness. 1. Select a torque stick one size below the target torque spec. Meaning, use an 80 ft-lb stick for a 100 ft-lbf torque target. 2. With the wheel off the ground…Maintain a light trigger finger on the impact gun…meaning, immediately stop applying torque once you hear/notice a sound change/stick movement change as torque is being applied. Applying torque past the sound change point overrides the torque stick value due to factors like impacts per minute of the gun and resonant torsional frequency of the stick. Those extra seconds of applying torque past the sound change/movement change point are the source of over torquing. 3. Put the wheel on the ground and Finish off the correct torque value with the torque wrench…meaning take the torque from somewhere around 80 ft-lbf to the 100 Ft-lbf target…works every time. I imagine once you get the feel for the proper trigger release point, you can try using the correct size torque stick (not sizing down) for the target torque, but you have to experiment first since each impact gun and torque stick combination will likely produce different final torque values.

Hi I enjoy watching your videos I found the same thing when I loosen the wheels but I think it’s our reaction time waiting for the digital reaction to stop,I found the click type to be more consistent because when it clicks the torque wrench doesn’t apply torque for a second I’m a 40 year technician

I had a lot of issues with lug nuts coming loose even with a torque wrench on aluminum/alloy wheels. Those wild changes in measurements I believe comes from wheel flex. Now I torque them on the lift with the wheels just touching, shaking the wheel to make sure it centers. Torque them again with it on the ground. And then drive for 5 minutes and then check the torque.

Great content. I use my Makita XWT18, on setting 2 for lug nuts. On my Rav 4, I use a 65ft-# stick to tighten, drop the car down, then use a torque wrench to click up to 76ft-#. Works great.

First video I've seen from you guys but I definitely like what I saw and will continue to watch your content. Other videos on torque sticks I've seen they tell you to let go of the trigger once you see the nut stop moving and, on electrics, put the wrench on the closest setting to the rating of the torque stick. I guess maybe this helps to make sure you don't go over the rating and keeps it more consistent.

Still use 1/2" air, tighten lug nuts on speed one, ( approx 80 ftlbs ) then hand torque, checking for some movement of lug nut while torquing. Pretty old school, but it still rocks...

so 16 yrs in the tool business. Here are 2 things that everyone should realize. Torque sticks do not work with a cordless impact due to the clutch. They are designed to work with air impacts. 2nd, if you actually read the instructions on a torque stick, you are supposed to regulate the air pressure to 90psi. so you should have a in line regulator on the bottom of your gun or on that air line end. The reason for both these rules is torque sticks use tensile strength to stop turning and applying torque and instead the beam starts twisting.

i watch a lot of you tube channels and have learned a lot your channel does the very best explaining. i watch watch wes work, Ivan at PHAD and Eric south main auto and some others you are first class and so far always respond if i have a question thanks so much for the hard work and effort you put into this. i have a few youtube videos have a hard time making the time to record. i enjoy draw testing. will always remember the first draw test was one of the newer VW Beetles took a while to understand the wiring but found and fixed. i still have couple air tools but hardly ever use them

Snug 'em, torque 'em. Rest easy.

Seen lots of ugha dugha, and sticks. Never seen torque wrench on a lug nut. I always tighten by hand. My rorors always get changed with brake repair.

I do all of ours except for our aircraft tugs when tires are put on. Every time the company does it and I’m not there I have at least 4 bad studs. I know so many guys who for decades said the same as what you’ve heard mostly because they don’t understand the reason for torque specs, they only get a part of it, and refuse to learn new things

Great video always wondered if I should buy torque sticks speed up work but for me be sticking to torque wrench ❤

I use the newest Matco air impact on the second lowest setting and do my initial tightening on the lugnuts with the closest rating torque stick to the vehicle’s spec. Obviously using either equal to or lower than spec. Never over. I usually get about a quarter turn out of the torque wrench before it clicks. Seems to work well for me.. I’ve found that with most modern impacts if you use torque sticks with them cranked all the way up you’ll over tighten the lugs every time.

Gentlemen I really appreciate your video! I'm always happy to see other tools. I've always wondered about torque wrenches. I do my own work on my car. I was trying to figure out recently why the torque specs say 59 ft lbs. Then 120 °. I was looking at one example of almost 181ft lbs. Only after a 60° turn. For a lower control thrust arm. As researching this. I found that a torque Adapter has only a 2% variant. I don't use either air or electric impacts. Id love to have them. I'm wondering if you put a air or electric impact tool maybe a better way? Thanks again for your time and video!

It takes a little longer but my shop finger tightens. Our air guns have "adjustable air restricters" on them so the tighten enough to center the wheel and we hand torque after. We started doing this years ago primary because we got tied of being accused and having to repair free damaged studs taking the wheels off to do other stuff after a "tire center" rotated the tires last. Wheels put on properly come off properly. We also tried using tourque sticks at one point only to find they were inaccurate.

If I use Milwaukee wrench I snug it with the wrench and final torque with a torque wrench. Some milwaukee guns have different settings when tightening a fastener.

First off, I don't even own any torque sticks and never will. Wheel torque, or improperly torquing, is one of my pet peeves. Seen way to many people ugga dugga them on then go around and "click" with the torque wrench and call it "torqued". Granted, I will remove wheels with my air gun and protective socket but going back on I don't use air. I use a speeder and socket to seat the lug nut by hand and then everything gets torqued by hand in 2-3 steps. I've been wrenching for 35+ years and that is how I've always torqued wheels on. Secondly, I commend you for getting the kids involved and teaching them properly. Mike

I use my snap on 1/2" air impact everyday. Electric only when i gotta do a job outside

When I sold MAC tools I refused to put torque sticks on my truck. And I will not allow anyone to use them on my vehicles. That has led to some arguments over the years.

I have air impact for when its needed but most of the time with hondas atleast my milwaukee 3/8 or 1/2 imapcts are fine. Usually use 1/2 to remove lugs and put the 3/8's on 2 to snug the lugs then hand torque on the ground

Maybe a beam type torque wrench should be tried when removing the wheel for testing purposes

I’m dealing with the issue right now of a tech not torquing my wheels correctly. After 25 plus years as a driveability tech and hotline tech and finally an instructor at UTI. I am disabled and wheelchair bound, I had a tire replaced at a shop and not only did it not get balanced correctly as I have a shake at higher speeds it developed a brake shutter and it has never had it before. The thing is it doesn’t show up right away most times and I have drilled and slotted rotors to help dissipate the heat. I know it was caused by improper torque of the wheel. It’s a 2004 Toyota Sequoia and also before the slip on rotor days we could get away with impacting wheels on because rotors were huge slabs of steel.

Every time I take my car to a "reputable" tire shop, and they install the lug nuts with torque sticks, when I take it home, I find the torques are WAY over the recommended torque. If anyone would need to CHANGE that tire with OEM lug wrenches, they'd never be able to get them off. Thays why I ALWAYS retorque my wheels after bringing it home.

When you're torquing with the impact you're torquing running torque. When you go back and check the torque with your torque wrench you are checking breakaway torque. Breakaway torch is always much higher than running torque. That is why I went twerking critical components such as connecting rods or aircraft engine components, we have a very specific sequence. We first start by talking to 50% that's running torque. Then we moved to 75% running torque. Then finally 100% running torque. When you go from 75% running torque to 100% you keep moving the torque wrench from 75 to 100% without stopping. Now, if you go back and check that torque, you're checking breakaway torque which always going to be much higher. If you wanted to verify your torque bar versus your torque wrench you would torque with the torque bar, Mark the location of the nut in reference to the stud. Back off the nut with your torque wrench to 75%, then torque to 100% and your marks should line up.

i am not mechanic and i had been using same stubby 3/8” to loose and lightly tighten it and use torque wrench to all my hondas 19mm 80ft lb 22mm 95 ft lb

All I know is that I carry a battery operated rattle gun in my car as I have arthritis & removing & tightening up the wheel nuts on the side of the road in the wind/rain/day or night whatever the gun stops at is tight enough for me & I know that the wheel is not coming off.

My question is how often are you recalibrating your torque wrench’s? I worked on helicopters in the Marine Corps for 20 years, and our torque wrench’s were recalibrated once or twice a year. We also had to zero out the torque wrench after every use, and if the torque wrench ever got dropped it had to be recalibrated again.

I recently started using a torque wrench. At work we have those exact torque sticks except its astro pneumatic branded. I found with ours the torque sticks was lower compared to my torque wrench(1/2 SK Torque Wrench click type).

I understand that they work when used with air tools because they were designed with the hammering frequency of the air impact tools, the electric impact tools have higher frequencies and will not work correctly, they tend to over torque when using an electric impact, a way to mitigate is to set if possible the electric impact on the lowest speed and choose a torque stick thats a bit under the number u want to reach so u wanna torque to 100nm choose a 90nm stick and set the electric impact on lowest speed ... Or something along those lines experiment and see what works for ur tools.

I was taught with the air gun to put it on the lowest setting when using the torque sticks.

I use the Milwaukee fuel 1/2" I actually start with my 1/4" drive then snug it down with the 1/2 " and finish with my 1/2" CDI torque wrench. I pretty much rely on the 1/2" inch to remove lugs. But definitely electric and I use the husky 3/8 drive ratchet for light work.

I must have some awesome torque sticks that purchased from Harbor Freight. They consistently under torque. My lugs always require about a 1/8 turn to hear the torque wrench click.

I can't believe how off the torque sticks are I really don't take too many tires off I'm only a weekend mechanic I'm mostly working on my racer but I still do friends or family vehicle repair I'm HVAC by trade but in any trade that you want to do top quality work it's testing tools just because it says it does something that doesn't mean it does and could cost you in the long run and even now there are still good tradesmen that take pride in their work and do a professional job

Forget the impacts for setting torque. Use them to snug the nuts - way below the final target. Hand torque to 50%, then again at 100%. This will remove variables like imperfect threads and grit on the mating surfaces.

as an ase master tech I really enjoyed watching the kid 🙂

I just wanted to say i learn alot from you guys and i enjoyed this experiment and i cant wait to learn more from you guys i already watched every video you guys posted im 23 and i just opened my mobile mechanic business in chicago also currently going to lincoln tech and its shops like yours that inspired me to get into this business with the honesty and the knowledge and im greatful to learn from you guys and in every video ypu post i learn something i wouldnt mind seeing more experiments or diag videos those help alot even tho i enjoy all the videos but keep up the great videos i cant wait fo the next one

@theroyaltyautoservice

11 ай бұрын

We appreciate that man! We think you’ll like the next video with a blinker issue on an Acadia. We will see you on that one! Thanks for all your support and we wish you nothing but the best on your business endeavors!

@dckiller1129

11 ай бұрын

@@theroyaltyautoservice we all appreciate you as well for teaching us all the right way to do things and yes that would be something i would love to see cant wait! and thank ypu im doimg the best as one can i actually follow ypu on tiktok you guys motivated me to start my tiktok josephs mobile mechanic so again thank you glad you guys made a youtube!

Very interesting.

Thank you for confirming that the way I do it is the best way.

I have been using a 65 lbf-ft torque stick with an air impact on low, then hand torquing (to 80 or 103 depending on which car) after dropping the car down on the ground. I now have an electric impact driver with selectable output force, so I will use that on medium (no stick), then hand torque.

I know what the issue is with the torque sticks during these tests, the air impacts are being used in a high impact mode, directions should’ve stated to reduce the torque on the gun to reduce the impact torque through the stick.

Could part of the reason for the erratic readings when checking the tightness torque be what I heard (dry non lubricated squeak) when you free spun the lug nuts? Maybe try again after having lubricated all of the lug nuts? Just thinking out of the box.

For a 80 I use 65 torque stick then finish with a torque wrench 80. That way you prevent over torquing.

As for air vs. electric, I still use air for the majority of my work. I do have a few cordless Snap-on and Milwaukee tools but I'm still old school and prefer air in many applications. Mike

Yeah i'll still use torque sticks, but i use them as backup, i'll run down the nuts with them and stop at the first time they bounce back (don't keep hammering at them). Then i'll retorque them regardless anyway I'm a one man band sole trader, have a little workshop. Sometimes, when you're under the pump, phones ringing, people dropping in/interrupting, etc, etc things pass you by Personally, i've never actually forgotten to torque wheel nuts, but ive certainly thought "damn did i torque those" (cause i've been running around, things blurr together during the day sometimes you just can't recall the vision in your head of torquing that particular cars wheel). Its usually just as the cars driving off too. Have called customers back before and got them to drop by just so i can check for my own piece of mind lmao Atleast with the sticks, if i do "actually" ever forget, they're still done up, mightn't be exactly torqued right but that wheel ain't falling off from hand tight nuts. Though i have taken to doing a quick once over of everything done on the car as per work-order to confirm everythings done, everythings where it needs to be, everythings fastened, wheel nuts torqued, etc

A couple of years ago I had a flat with my 2012 corvette, had it fixed and I was on my way. Decided to have my brakes done the next day and went to my trusted mechanic and said I seem to have a vibration now that I didn't have.When the idiot tire guys put the wheel back on it was so tight my mechanic used the term it 'spread the metal" on the rim and threw it out of balance. He said it was very common on aluminum rims when they bury the air gun on the lugs. He did the brakes, torqued the rims to spec (100 ft lbs) and it rode smooth as glass.

Aircraft mechanics / technicians get paid by the hour. Thanks for the vid. I will start zipping on my lug nuts with a 3/8 pneumatic.

In this video they proved that electric gun has higher frequency of impact so it doesn't allow the torque stick to retract enough (retracting is required for the torque limiting feature)so the torque stick doesn't do its job correctly with electric gun - you end up overtorquing. Should be fine with air impact. kzread.info/dash/bejne/fIqNksduo8e9qJc.htmlsi=wAzMrGj5OgVrDsy1 Another takeaway I got from another source - a seasoned master tech who now teaches diagnostics at a local college - torquesticks are not very accurate in the number rated but they bring about uniform torque around the wheel, which is key for good health of brake rotor, and proper rotation of the wheel. also able to finish torquing while car still on the lift.He swears by them used with air impact. Again what you guys do is the best (torque wrench), but flateraters just look for shortcuts, otherwise can't make a decent living. Kick the can of removing the lugnut to the next person.

EXCELLENT TEST !!!!! IN THE SHOP, ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION, SPECIALLY USING AIR TOOLS ????????

Thumbs up to getings the younguns involved

I always use a torque stick under my torque spec and then use a torque wrench to finish

I use name brand tools I do not cut corners when it comes down to torquing down wheels. I use electric to put the wheel on but I use a torque wrench to finish. I use air on everything inside the shop except in the vehicle.

Was the Milwaukee gun set to the third or 4th position? I know when you loosen in the 4th position it will slow down when less torque is detected. I’ll test tightening in 4th setting tomorrow to see. Always use the second setting and never had a problem over tightening studs. Comes in around 150 ft lb with fully charged 9amp hour battery, depending on short or deep socket. Cool video

@toddhietpas684

5 ай бұрын

I use second setting on my Makita 1/2" for tightening as well.

i use the milwaukee 3/8 mid torque battery for lugs for first tightening

I've never had much faith in torque sticks. Too many variables involved such as how long was the stick in service, varying strengths of impact guns, and air line pressure consistency. When seating lug nuts I turn my gun down to the minimum setting. I follow up with the torque wrench set to manufacturer's specs. I always recommend that people buy a good torque wrench. Avoid cheap torque wrenches that have the knurled lock knob on the end of the handle. Those knobs work loose during the torque sequence.

Last time I read the directions on torque sticks they said not to use electric impacts. That might have changed

i think, is one more thing that we have to consider. Short or long socket? An old tech told me,that, for torque wrenches, Short sockets makes the jod,more accurate. But ,I haven't test this theory yet.

I am a DYI. I have a cheap Ryobi impact in the truck of every car and a torque stick... (my Toyota's have a 75 ft-lb for subaru 90 ft-lbs) for on the road emergency better and guessing. At home... always use a Torque wrench.

Can u show the difference between impact andd chrome lugs and short and deep and the different tool speeds

I'd like to see an experiment on how extensions affect the torque wrench. Extensions are necessary when using flip sockets or for dually wheels.

@CodycoWeb

11 ай бұрын

Extensions do not effect torque because you are applying torsional force and it is transferred to the socket and the nut as you twist the wrench. It may take more rotation but the torque applied is the same. Force applied to one end is equal to the force applied to the socket on the other end it just takes more travel of the wrench applying the twist. Hope that makes sense

@jeanenviedapprendre

11 ай бұрын

@@CodycoWeb I have to disagree. Multiple times I've been unable to remove a lug nut with a long extension. Removing the extension or choosing a shorter one allows the nut to come off effortlessly. The extension was absorbing some of the torque from the impact. It's probably why torque sticks are so long.

@Nakkilauta

11 ай бұрын

@@jeanenviedapprendre you are not impacting with the torque wrench.

I really wish my shop did this I see guys in my shop everyday put on lug nuts with the new milwaukee and lay on it then when it comes back I have a hell of a time getting it back off. I had it out a few weeks ago with this one tech and I yelled over to him and said ok now I know why I cant get half of my lug nuts off on my cars this is what happens when you work at a dealership with mostly kids there

Air will always be king in the shop imo. Cordless is nice on the go but if I have access to air I’m using it. Rather then using a torque stick just I just turn the power down on my IR 2235 timax to get everything snugged up and then do my final torque with a torque wrench. Makes no sense in fiddling around with a torque stick if it’s not gonna be accurate.

I use air and electric but I only use a torque wrench to for all lug nuts

I wish all mechanics were trained as well as granddad is training that young lad. I use a ½" drive 24" breaker bar to break the lugs and then to spin them loose. I spin the lugs back on with my fingers, snug it lightly with the breaker bar and then do 2 or three passes to final torque with my ½” drive Icon digital electronic torque wrench. I'm able to do this pretty quickly, vs how quickly it could be done with torque sticks and impact guns. I have forged magnesium wheels with aluminum lug nuts on my car and will not risk them to lazy monkeys operating rattle guns. I would trust my car with you guys.

Thank You Well my torque sticks are now scrap metal. I thought it was me with the cordless impact and torque sticks.

Only good thing about the torque sticks. They will give you a even pattern so you could go back with the torque wrench. That’s all they’re good for.

torque needed to loosen should be around 80% of applied torque to tighten

High-Speed Video INSIDE Impact Wrenches: How They Work kzread.info/dash/bejne/qoWu07Cnh6qYYdY.html

Well it takes more breaking Force to tighten it then to loosen, you're adding more tension and if you're loosening the tension is being released quicker that's why it takes less force. The only caveat to that is if it's rusted. I wouldn't let the kids do too much with the power wrench using power tools will cause impact stress injury on your joints, a lot of mechanics get it if they constantly useing impact wrenches so advisable to use it as less as possible don't be using them all day every day in adults it can cause Arthritis limit your time of use at least have one day free every other day if you're constantly using them on a daily basis. You'll get a more even torque if you spray the bevel of the bolts or wheel with some WD40 first.

Something else is a torque wrench is only as good as it’s calibration. I’ve seen some off my 40% from improper storage alone

im an air guy. i cant tell you how many wheels we have had loose from others that use a electric and dont double check torque.. scary actually.

I was always told they are only to get them run down then you torque.

What brand pants is the boss wearing - I'm looking for a new job and like those

@theroyaltyautoservice

11 ай бұрын

Truewerk pants.

I still use air at my house. Love air tools

They are 10 pounds off foot pounds if you use the gun and that gun starts chattering they’re supposed to be tight and then you put the torque wrench on it you’re gonna find they’re gonna be 10 foot pounds off and you don’t wanna hold your hand on the torque stick while the impact is tightening, I was told by a representative that torque stick to chatter