Diy in tank surge tank. chevy c10

Making a solution for a problem. Developed an in tank surge tank using a single electric pump and a single venturi pump in a stock carbureted gas tank to prevent fuel starvation while going fuel inj.

Пікірлер: 10

  • @lurchmeister6759
    @lurchmeister67597 жыл бұрын

    do you have ,more info on how you built this thing? any videos or photos of the guts to it? TIA

  • @gadgetdeez7069

    @gadgetdeez7069

    7 жыл бұрын

    It's fairly straight forward.. it's a can, with an umbrella valve covering 4 tiny holes in the floor of the can.. This acts as a 1 way check valve that allows fuel in the can equalize with the fuel level in the tank.. Google "Umbrella Valve".. I used a crankcase umbrella valve for a harley, since they are resistant to petroleum products. Then, the fuel pump I used to run the system AND my engine was an aeromotive Stealth 340Lph.. I believe it was pump 11541, but not necessarily critical so long as you can find a sock that is compatible for your surge canister and pump. www.aeromotiveinc.com/new340/ That then feeds the engine from what little fuel is in the surge canister. The unused fuel returns from the fuel pressure regulator in your fuel rail or corvette filter, however you have your setup plumbed, and returns to the surge canister through a Radium engineering venturi jet pump. www.radiumauto.com/Venturi-Jet-Pump-Kit-P760.aspx The outlet of the pump is routed to a 5/16? brake line I bent 90*. The exit of the pump needs a little hose on the end of it to work correctly. The 90* bend in the outlet also creates a swirl in the can, so if there is any air, it immediately surfaces, rather than getting blown down toward the fuel pump pickup. This return fuel, returns through the venturi creating a vacuum in the inlet. on mine, I installed a 90* elbow pointing downward, as I didn't have room to install it as a "Tee".. The now 90* inlet to the jet pump is routed to a 5/16" tube that is ran through an interference fit hole in the bottom of the can. it peeks out by maybe a 1/16" or so, just so it doesn't randomly come out, and the interference fit makes sure that theres no excessive fuel leak between the tube and the bottom of the can.. a slight leak is ok, but the idea is to keep the can full at all times. so the smaller the leak the better, but dont go epoxying stuff. I've found epoxy or other sealers to cause unnecessary trouble later down the road. so now that the jet pump is plumbed to a tube just outside the floor of the can, the return fuel from the engine returns to the can, and creates a vacuum on the inlet of the jet pump, which also sucks fuel from the fuel tank to join return fuel exiting the jet pump and this is what fills the can. The can fills till it overflows into the fuel tank. To prevent the suction tube of the jet pump from starving, I drilled/tapped 3 1/4-20 holes in the bottom plate of the can before welding it all together.. I installed some screws in the threaded holes and tack welded them in place so they don't back out.. I trimmed the threaded side down to about 5/16" long and installed a piece of 1/4" fuel hose on each bolt that was just a hair longer than the bolt to prevent metal on metal contact so I don't end up with holes in my tank later down the road. removed my fuel sending unit from the hat of my tank, removed an unused vapor line, and re-purposed it for a mounting hole for the l shaped bracket I made to attach the can to the hat with a single bolt. This bolt will also serve as my fuel pump ground. Take measurements, and tack bracket in place. The old sending unit signal terminal was removed and replaced with a nylon bulkhead for the fuel pump power lead. I'm sure you could just use the old sending unit terminal if you really wanted, but I don't want any risk or shortage of fuel, so I opted to upgrade it with a proper terminal setup. After that was done and installed, I got a 5 bolt universal GM 0-90 ohm fuel level sending unit. (Since this was going in a chevy truck. Your sending unit resistance values may be different) and adjusted the sending unit to fit my tank. and installed it in the tank in a different location. Make sure you have room to mount it where you want before cutting a hole in your tank. Tank mounting, body work, straps etc may be in the way. consider this before cutting a hole.. ideally, for the least amount of slosh in the gauge, try to put the float as close to center of the tank as possible. Just a tip.. When setting up your fuel level sending unit and they have you taking measurements for Full/empty.. Full is NOT measured from the top of the tank itself.. "Full" or the "TOP" of your tank should be measured from the bottom of the vent tube inside the tank.. When you fill up, the vent tube will shove gas backward into the nozzle to auto shutoff the pump when full. They do this to leave room for expansion inside the tank.. If you measure the top of your tank instead of the bottom of the vent, your fuel level will never read full..

  • @jeffreyholloway7767

    @jeffreyholloway7767

    6 жыл бұрын

    hi man. i think this is a fantastic setup you have. i would like to try it, i just have two question how far from the bottom is your inlet to you main pump positioned? and do you know if that umberella valve ok to use with higher octane fuels?

  • @iceship1
    @iceship18 жыл бұрын

    So how did you so it..

  • @d_rock_t
    @d_rock_t5 жыл бұрын

    Im trying to build something similar to this. Do you have any pictures of your venturi setup?

  • @gadgetdeez7069

    @gadgetdeez7069

    5 жыл бұрын

    Its literally just a radium engineering 20-0180, a short piece of hose on the pump outlet with a 5/16 brake line bent to direct fuel away from the pump pickup. And the pump siphon is connected to a piece of 5/16 brake line that is slightly flattened toward the end to prevent it from pushing all the way through a tolerance fit hole in the bottom of the sump. The siphon tube sticks out of the bottom of the sump by maybe 1/8" or so.

  • @d_rock_t

    @d_rock_t

    5 жыл бұрын

    @@gadgetdeez7069 thanks for the reply. I wondered if you were using a radium venturi. After looking around I think im gonna try the holley hydramat. Id have about as much money plus a ton more time versus just using the mat. Thanks anyway.

  • @hectorortega9131
    @hectorortega91316 жыл бұрын

    why the sparks on the motor brushes dont ignite the fuel????

  • @gadgetdeez7069

    @gadgetdeez7069

    6 жыл бұрын

    Hector Ortega every internal combustion fuel injected engine has an in tank fuel pump like this. Fuel actually flows through the pump and keeps the motor cool. For there to be fire, you need 3 things. You need fuel, heat, and oxygen. Because the fuel pump is COOLED by fuel, there is no heat, therefore no sparks. Because the inside of the pump motor is completely flooded by fuel, there is no air. If you dont have heat and you dont have air, there are 2 of the 3 things required for fire. So it is impossible to have fire or explosion.

  • @EldonBeix

    @EldonBeix

    5 жыл бұрын

    @@gadgetdeez7069 - Additionally on this Question, Liquid gas will not ignite it must vaporize and mix with Air to become volatile.