Excellent setup for cine film conversion. I like it that you have explained in detail the stages and what programs / software / hardware was used. Thank you very much.

Amazingly well-done, both the hardware capture rig (wow what a lot of work!), and the various software steps.

The best film-video conversion system I have ever seen...great results

Well done. Excellent results. I have built a similar system but with the following differences that may interest others. Firstly I use a stripped down Eumig 610 projector. The motor remains but it is driven via a toothed belt from the DC motor of old electric screwdriver. Motor control is with a 555 timer adjustable PWM circuit driving a power MOSFET. The bulb is replaced with low wattage halogen (I don't adjust it). For the trigger I use a reflective optocoupler to pick up a white patch on the shutter. The transistor part of the optocoupler is wired across the push button of an old computer mouse circuit board connected to my PC using USB. This produces a mouse click each time the frame settles. The camera is an inexpensive HD microscope camera with USB connection to the PC. The capture & editing software are both standard.

this is incredible work! really well engineered and executed.

Absolute Beast Level my friend!! Your hard work pays off!!

This is just stunning! Great work, keep on it!

I am very impressed with the quality!

The result is amazing. Very good job. The diy car with bell (first movie from 1978) is great!

@diycool9442

8 жыл бұрын

Thanks! That's me and my brother in the diy car ...

Thank you so much. This is great! Thanks for taking the time to explain.

Fantastic job and the video quality is amazing.

This is absolutely amazing! Great work man! Been thinking of making something similar. I do a lot of embedded applications, I think it would be fun!

Amazing result!

excellant job ...scanning works great love your setup.

Super cool project build! Looking to build something like this myself

Outstanding work!

I felt the same feeling looking at the parade procession and the black white footage at the end as I did when i saw the turn of the late 1800's photography of the streets of paris made with a unique 4 color process AUTOCHROME LUMIERE. Stunning they really transport you to that time with the added detail!

Thumbs up! Top of the line work.

perfect quality!

Impressive!

Professionele aanpak.

Awesome! :-)

Is it possible to build one using a roller or capstan to pull the film through?

Genius !

Looking to build one of these and shoot 4k. Where can I find instructions or buy an already modified unit?

@eliashuch71

4 жыл бұрын

the Jpgs are already higher resolution than 4K, but I think you'll have to build it yourself or hire an engineer.

Excellent work! This is by far the best DIY-telecine i have seen! How did you wire the step motor? I´m building one of my own and thought of using your solution but i can´t grasp how you control the motor? I have a Velleman TI DRV8825 as stepmotor driver but i can´t get the motor turning. I have also thought of using a GoPro as camera since i can´t afford your kind of camera. Would that work? Please help!

@diycool9442

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the compliment! I explained a bit more about the stepper motor I used here : www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=60402&page=6#entry448731 The DRV8825 (or the A4988 driver , also from Pololu ) is a very good driver for this purpose. It gets the best performance out of the stepper and is easy to drive with a step and direction input. In another project I am using the same driver without problems. To get the motor turning you need to connect it to the DRV8825 (4 wires) and apply proper voltages to the DRV8825 (see datasheet) . Each time you pulse the STEP input the motor should make (part of) a step. If you apply a 100Hz blockwave the motor should step at 100 steps/s. What exactly is going wrong in your setup ? Is the motor making noise ? is it getting warm ? The GoPro image quality is OK. You will need to find a way to trigger the Gopro to take an image each time a frame is in front of it. Or record a movie with the GoPro and use software to pick out the unique frames afterwards. And you will need a lens so it can zoom in on the small 8mm image. Succes!

Great job! This is such a cool project! I had one question for you, how did you hook up the stepper motor and the variable speed knob? Thanks

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you. This is done by a bit of analog/digital electronics on a piece of stripboard. I could of used a small microcontroller instead, but I just wanted to do it the old fashioned way ... The original 150R potentiometer drives a dual opamp (lm324) VCO . This generates a variable frequency ( up to a few KHz). This signal is fed into a 4040 counter. Outputs Q2&Q3 are Xored (74LS86). This way two 90° shifted square waves are produced. These signals are fed to a NJM3772 Stepper motor driver. In addition I also integrated the original "reverse/off/forward" control knob. In "off" state the vco is stopped by a transistor. In "reverse" one of the signals to the steper motor driver is inverted (another xor port) so the motor turns the other way. If you use a microcontroller with an analog input, the schematic would be simpler : only the microcontroller and the stepper motor driver are needed ( and a bit of software...)

@jakecrossan838

7 жыл бұрын

DIY Cool Thanks! That is a really nice way to do it and still use all of the old controls. I am making a telecine machine too, and I was thinking about using an arduino, but If I can do it without one and use the old controls that would be great, and save a little money too!

Brilliant result from dedicated effort. The best footage I have ever seen and I have 15 years experience as a Telecine operator (Bauch FDL-60) transfering and grading 16mm and 35mm negative and reversal film. Looks like a WET GATE transfer with no dust or scratches, and absolutely butter smooth motion without flicker. You should get a lot of work for it, do you accept commissioned jobs?

@diycool9442

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Many credits go to VideoFred for his excellent avisynth scripts . Because my free time is limited and the conversion speed is relatively slow ( 3 frames/s) I only convert for relatives.

Your setup and showing of details is very fine, so that I decided to try something comparable with my old 8mm Films. Today I got my own projector, but it seems to be an older model, which I conclude from several details. Nevertheless, it should do the job. My question, did you do any lubrication of gears and transportation mechanism? I find a little bit too much friction. What materials did you use?

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Its a long time ago, but I probably just cleaned them to remove old dust and then applied some standard fine mechanic oil

superb! did you clean the film first or was it done with software OR was it just very well cared for??

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

A combination of both. I cleaned all film with Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol ) ( approved by Kodak : motion.kodak.com/kodakgcg/motion/support/people_and_planet/product_use/film_cleaning_solvents/default.htm). I did this by pressing a damp soft cloth to the film while I manually wound the film on an old editor. I also regularly cleaned the path of the film through the machine. This took away some of the dirt/dust. Then software dirt removal did the rest .It is part of videoFred's Avisynth file ( I used dirt_strenght=30 )

You need to build one for the National Archives. They have millions of feet, all original old films... they are throwing much of it away due to the fire hazards (flammable as it degrades, should not be thrown though) And they can not convert it with any quality like this. PRESERVE these old films.

@DoubleMonoLR

4 жыл бұрын

Something like this would be ideal for them, but very expensive presumably: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fYGGsbOEYpzPY6w.html

Thank you very much for sharing. You have done a fantastic job, probably the best I have seen. I am working on three telecine machines at the moment, all taking a slightly different approach. Two are using projectors and one is built from scratch. One I am working on uses a Sankyo 1000 like yours but I am taking a different route, I'll post mine when it's finished. I am about to replace the motor with a stepper motor similar to yours but I'll be driving it with an Arduino or a StepperBee. I do like your method though! I was just wandering what you are using to reduce noise and dust as your examples are about the cleanest I have seen! Are you using VirtualDub for this? Thank you once again for posting this.

@diycool9442

8 жыл бұрын

+Silvermachine7 Thank you for the compliment. Your movies already look very good. I especially like the colors and sharpness. To reduce noise and dust I used videoFred’s Avisynth scripts and tweaked them a bit. (see forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=144271) I used VirtualDubMod(1.5.10.3) to open the scripts. I also cleaned the tapes before transferring them. Using a film rewinder and manually pulling the film through a cloth dampened with Isopropyl alcohol. I am not sure if this really helped/was necessary though..

@Silvermachine7

8 жыл бұрын

+DIY Cool Thank you very much for your fast reply and for your compliment. I am actually now getting much better results than those examples. I will upload some more up to date ones in the near future. The Dresden example wasn't really a very good film to start my experiments on as the colours took a lot of work to get even close to correct. The film was extremely blue! I am transferring in real time at the moment as my frame by frame machine isn't quite ready yet. For Super 8 I'm using a Sankyo 700 which gives a very consistent speed being a sound projector ( the speed can be adjusted from inside the projector to remove flicker, even though on the surface it isn't variable speed). The camera I am using is a Panasonic Lumix GH2 and by using a feature this camera has for recording at 80% speed I get very close to real time playback without further adjustment. For Standard 8 I am using the Sankyo 1000 but at the moment the motor speed just isn't consistent enough for a real time transfer so it needs stabilizing. So hopefully this will be achieved by either a stepper motor or a DC motor run from an Arduino with a sensor, optical or magnetic to give feedback. I am cleaning the film pretty much as you do beforehand. Most of my corrections have been made in Premiere Pro & After Effects but the renders for 1080p take forever! Those I have tried in VirtualDub are much faster. I have come across VideoFred a lot when researching this, after taking another look his work is fantastic! I obviously haven't spent enough time digesting it, something I really must do now! Thank you once again.

Hi, is your Cosmicar/Pentax 25/1.4 C-mount TV lens compatible with Chinese cams that have the Sony IMX*** CMOS sensor? I have a 4k sony IMX317 and I use a 180x enlarger but I think the Cosmicar is of better quality. What do you think?

Do you have a list of parts and assembly instructions you can post.

Hi, you have done a very good job here. I converted a Bell and Howell projector last year with only a white led and using a 50mm Practica lens coupled to a machine vision camera via extension tubes. I used the original motor with a pwm module to control speed. I have since started to use a stepper motor controlled via an Arduino processor. My results are OK but lack the focus clarity that you have obtained. Perhaps this is lens limited as my old films come from a Bell and Howell and a Chunk 410 macro camera with similar results and wondered if you could let me know what make of 25 mm lens you are using, regards John

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Hi John, I used a Cosmicar/Pentax 25mm f/1.4 TV lens ( see www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2750354). Things I did to optimize the sharpness : 1. Proper alignment of the lens, perpendicular to the frame. 2. Good Depth of Field ( the 3D object area where the lens will produce a sharp image on the sensor.). A high enough Depth of Field ensures the complete frame is in focus. In a given setup, the more you stop down the lens (reduce the size of the lens diaphragm by turning the front ring) the higher Depth of Field will be. Alas, stopping down the lens also reduces the amount of light reaching the sensor. So it is a compromise. I always used f/4. 3. To verify maximum sharpness is reached, my software has a “high pass” mode. In this mode the life image is differentiated : brightness in the image indicates difference between adjacent pixels. I could then tune the setup until maximum sharpness across the complete frame was achieved. 4. There is also some sharpness improvement achieved by the postprocessing (Avisynth scripts). I also noticed a big sharpness difference between individual 8mm movies. Sharpness depends on : sensitivity/quality of emulsion , lens quality and skill of who recorded the movie ( typical camera had manual focus). Greetings, Pol

@johnmatthews9574

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Pol for your very quick reply. I will try and use your suggestions to improve my results. The Bell and Howell had a semi automatic focus, and my Chinon was only manual, so it will be interesting to see what results I get, thanks again, regards, John

hello. i am an artist that make work with multiple film projectors. is there a way to synch multiple projectors together - lock them together so they won't drift? would greatly appreciate any information. thank you.

@diycool9442

8 жыл бұрын

Sorry about the delay... ( holiday season) Could you give some more details about what you need ? e.g Do you have multiple copies of the same film and do you want them to play synchronous , Are you looking for a DIY solution or an off the shelf solution , how accurate should the system be ? ( keep synchronous for several hours ) .

Necesito...en idioma español.tengo proyectoras..

How are the films so clean? Did you edit the scratches out?

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

To process the frames I've used Avisynth with VideoFred's script and played around with the parameters. ( see forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=144271 ). This script contains image stabilization, denoising, and dirt (& scratch) removal.

Am I to understand that you removed the shutter blade on this projector?

@diycool9442

6 жыл бұрын

Correct. The camera can only take a picture when the frame is not moving ( it is triggered by a small magnet passing a reed contact). So the shutter is no longer needed to avoid moving frames being projected/filmed.

Hi Pol...amazing results...I'm blown away by this. I have exactly the same projector that I started a similar project about a year ago but had to put on hold. I have two questions: (1) How did you enlarge the gate? If so, did you need to remove the mechanism to do this? (2) How did you remove the 3 blade shutter? Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you, Dennis. It was a lot of fun building it. To enlarge the gate I removed everything that could be unscrewed. E.g. Quarz glass & holder, cupper protection plate, spring , thin black plate with two rectangular holes. Looking from the lamp side I ended up with bare alu. The only things that is gating the film is the large rectangular hole in the retractable film guide. I do not remember having to enlarge this with a file. ( A picture would make it easier to explain, but I do not know a simple way to show you one). To remove the shutter I first disassembled the drive axis (the axis with a pully on one end and a wormwheel on the other). If you unscrew some socket-screws the shutter can be removed easily. The trick is to not be afraid to unscrew something, but at the same time to take enough detailed pictures, in case you need to put it back together !

@DennisMondolo

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Pol, I took your advice and disassembled the drive shaft and removed the shutter. One tip for anyone attempting this is to ensure you mark the position of the cam and the circular metal piece with the bent edge with NON-removable ink...otherwise you'll not get the sprocket armature to perform the correct pulldown movements in order. With regards to the software you wrote, I'm going to be using an HD webcam as a base to ensure I can get images captured (and to justify to the wife to purchase a better camera), have you or anyone compiled the application to use Logitech webcams that could be shared?

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Indeed, the positioning is rather critical ... I haven't converted my application to be used with webcams. Should be possible by using AForge library or simular to control the camera from c#. Some features of the program will have to be removed : automatic gain control, conversion of raw image (12bit raw ->8bit bitmap) using gamma correction.

thumbs up, good work! aiming to build similar based on the Raspberry Pi HQ-Cam, with 4K raw output..unfortunately code isn't available anymore could yo maybe repost?

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Indeed , the zip seems to be removed. Here is a new link : drive.google.com/file/d/1p9QITwezSlyEFxOrnzpApl3ECpfdGa4I/view?usp=sharing

Hi,I have a question.Film rate is 18 fps, the video is probably 25. In what way have added the missing footage?Thank you!

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Hello, In the beginning I converted the super-8 frames (18fps) to 25fps as you mention. I used the MFlowFps function in Avisynth (part of Videofred scripts) This resulted in a smooth video, but sometimes artifacts can be seen. For normal-8 (16fps) even more artifacts could been seen. That is why I chose not to convert the frame rate. So my resulting files are now mostly 16 or 18fps avi files. This way you get the original feeling of the film and no artifacts. The only reason I see converting to 25fps would be needed is if you want to burn to disc, or play the file on a TV.

@kav8206

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you!Great job!

How did you adapt the projector to cold light?

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

I removed the halogen light and replaced it with a rgb led source I constructed myself. ( see image inside : www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=60402 , scroll all the way down to Post 12 February 2016 - 02:27 PM ) )

Just curious, Isn;t this camera a little overkill for 8mm? Wouldn't a crop sensor mirrorless be sufficient at 10bit color?

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Sure, when I made this most camera's only had 8 bit and that's not ideal.

Hi, your work is great. I'm also planning on doing the same job and I own the same projector you have, the Sankyo 1000 dualux. I found your video and you gave me a great idea: keep the original engine speed adjustment potentiometer and the original forward-off-reverse switch. Please, I ask you for help: can you show me an electrical diagram for the connections between the 12v selector-motor and the potentiometer? I would like to do it without fail.Thank you very much and congratulations!

@diycool9442

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I am not sure what schematic you are looking for ( is it the original schematic of the projector you mean ? ). In my project I used a lot of discrete components, but the easiest way to use the potentiometer and switch to drive the motor is using an Arduino. Connect the standard 3 pin 150 Ohm potentiometer to an analog input on the Arduino. For the switch you first remove all the wires connected to it, and with a multimeter you can easily find a number of contacts that open/close depending on the position of the switch. Connect the switches you need ( probably only forward and backward ) to digital inputs on the Arduino. Use a standard Arduino compatible motor driver (e.g. A4988 ) to drive the motor. ( a stepper motor is for me the best choice as the speed is very constant, but a DC motor would work to). You do not need al lot of code in the Arduino, just a program that reads the potentiometer value and switches and that then decides which speed the stepper motor should go.

@nicolablasco

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I thank you for your kind and quick reply! I don't use Arduino. My project foresees a 12v 120rpm dc motor, a mouse to which at the left "click" I connect a microswitch that receives the impulses and takes a picture for every second. The motor travels at 1 round per second.A project exactly like this (kzread.info/dash/bejne/fX5sqNSyaaXNlKg.html) I would like to use the original 150 ohm potentiometer (this is easy to connect) and the knob original with FFWD-STOP-REW functions but I don't know the connections.What are the cables to connect to the 12v power source and which ones go to the 12v dc motor? .Thank you for your interest!

@diycool9442

2 жыл бұрын

That is not a easy question... As I have at this moment no access to my setup I cannot try to measure it. A service manual would be nice but I also do not have this. You want to connect 4 wires to the switch ( 12V DC power in and two wires out to the motor controller). And it should be so that if switch=STOP -> no power to motor, switch=FFWD -> directly connect 12V to motor , switch=REW -> reverse connect 12V to motor. I am afraid the only option is to use a multimeter to discover which pins on the connector are connected depending on the state of the switch and in this way try to reverse engineer the connections you should use.

@nicolablasco

2 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Hello and thanks again. Yes, you're right: that's what I'll do as soon as I take the projector apart. I will have to write down which are the cables that come and go to the transformer and the power supply and which ones come and go to the motor. I will do some tests by connecting a 12v source and a fan. Thanks and congratulations!

Hi, Can you tell me where to buy the lens that fits the manta camera? The kind of lens necessary for 8mm cine film transfer. Many Thanks.

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Hello, I used a Cosmicar/Pentax 25/1.4 C-mount TV lens ( see www.efixmedia.de/photography/2010/03/04/cosmicarpentax-251-4-c-mount-tv-lens-review/) But you can use any lens that a)fits the camera ( C-mount for the camera I used) b) has a suitable focal length ( I experimented with some lenses ) and c) preferably has an aparture and focus ring. The goal is make the image cover the complete sensor area of the camera. I don't think 8mm telecine requires anything special from the lens. Any "normal" quality lens should do.

@jayvadgama5663

3 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Thank you so much for your prompt and precise reply. Much Appreciated. Jay.

I looked at your link to the LED light controller. Can you tell me what op-amp you used in the circuit ?

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Hello, I used a LM324 , but many other opamps will work.

@whoam42a1

3 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Thanks for the info, I shall be making one these in the near future.

hello Pol, i love your project. the c# code is not available on the site, am waiting still for 2 week for registration to be accepted. Any chance to share on github or other way ? am really really interested to try out your flow ! thx

@diycool9442

4 жыл бұрын

Sure, try drive.google.com/open?id=1cSebEFUxcR6rkT_a_bQ22V-4llxGdVgJ

I'd like to build something like this. I'm curious the reed switch is triggered by that long magnet on the rotating gear, right? Is there a reason that the magnet had to be that long? Also, the rotating magnet when it passes the reed switch, it doesn't seem to correspond with the opening and closing of the gate arm. Shouldn't that be what is synchronizing the recording camera? What am I not missing?

@diycool9442

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, the rather large magnet is indeed triggering the reed switch. No good reason why it is that long, just one that reliably triggered the reed contact. Could be much smaller. If you look closely (in slow-motion) at the part starting at 1:38 you can see that the magnet passes the reed switch when the sprocket arm is not inserted into the movie. So when the reed contact is closed a picture can be taken because the film is not moving.

@hausofwheat

4 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Ok, I think I was look at it backwards. Thanks for clarifying that.

@hausofwheat

4 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Me again. I was wondering, was it absolutely necessary to replace the motor with a stepper motor if the image recorded is signaled from the reed switch? What is the benefit of changing out to a stepper? My current dilemma is if I were to exchange the existing motor to a stepper, I wouldn't know what kind to get; I suppose torque, size and voltage would be a requirement. What other considerations? Any advice would be of great appreciation. Thanks.

@diycool9442

4 жыл бұрын

@@hausofwheat Hi again, The motor does not need to be replaced by a stepper motor. The problem is that my capture system currently only captures 3 images per second. So the motor must run about 5 times slower than normal. And the original motor could not do that. The advantage of using a stepper motor it that you have precise speed control and you can run at very low speeds (e.g. 1 frame / 10s ) to make debugging easier. But if your motor can run at low speed or if your capture speed is higher you can keep the original motor. You could also go for a DC motor with reduction, that will be easier to control then a stepper. It is difficult to advise which stepper motor to use, as it depends on the force needed to drive the mechanism, the reduction (how many turns of the stepper does it take to move the film a certain distance), the max speed it should be able to run at and also the driver you are using. I would assume a minimum torque of 0.1Nm. The current and voltage are not as important as long as your stepper driver can handle it. The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver is a good and cheap driver. Each pulse at the step pin makes the motor move 1 step.

@hausofwheat

4 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 , much appreciated. I think I am first gonna attempt to forego the stepper and go with a camera system that can be triggered fast enuff with the existing motor. I've been looking playing around with Arduino and Raspberry Pi and depending on the resolution, I think it may be the ideal solution for me. Thank you mucho!

but what is that program capturing the images

@diycool9442

6 жыл бұрын

I wrote the program myself because I could not find anything standard that could do it. Luckily the manufacturer of the camera has a .net framework to capture camera images. The source code for my program can be found here (in one of the posts) : www.cinematography.com/index.php?s=097db9176f46ed866add05f37b5f23e2&showtopic=60402&page=6

Hi, really good! The films look so clean - I do not see dust or scratches. How did you do that?

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

I cleaned all films with Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol ) ( approved by Kodak : motion.kodak.com/kodakgcg/motion/support/people_and_planet/product_use/film_cleaning_solvents/default.htm). I did this by pressing a damp soft cloth to the film while I manually wound the film on an old editor. I also regularly cleaned the path of the film through the machine. This took away some of the dirt/dust. Then software dirt removal did the rest .It is part of videoFred's Avisynth file ( I used dirt_strenght=30 )

@OliverSidla_SLR

3 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Thanks. I am cleaning my films as you say with a soft cloth and cleaning fluid, but the result is by far not as good as yours. I think probably when I was young, 13+ yrs only, I just did not take that much care of the films and they are just more scratched and dirty. I am using a very similar method with an industrial camera etc. My projector is modified to hold a macro lens and I am running it at 24 frames so that the digitization is faster. Its very interesting for me to see that you also take a lot of care to have the proper exposure, I am also fanatic about that. At the moment I am using a FLIR camera with 12-bit pixel depth and I am saving those raw images first, then I do gamma etc. during a post processing step. I hope to get more dynamic range captured this way. Thanks again, your digitization looks amazing.

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

@@OliverSidla_SLR Thank you. Cleaning is indeed no miracle, it can help with dirt and dust but does nothing with scratches ... To reduce the visibility of scratches the wet gate technique is sometimes used, but that went above my capabilities. I am jealous of your 24frames/s ... I had to watch all movies in really slow motion (3frames/s) , but is was kind of fun too!

Oh I did not know it is done frame-by-frame. I thought it is in real time speed and output is a one video file. What a tedious proces.

Hi, has it ever happened to you that some frames are moved? I built a 1rpm system similar to yours that shoots 1 frame per second. Over 3000 frames, about 15-20 are moved. Depends on what? How to fix it?

@diycool9442

2 жыл бұрын

Hello, while I was tuning the device I also got these "moved" frames (sometimes only a small move, sometimes even blurred images). You will have to debug your setup to find the real cause. it can be anything : mechanical issue, problem with the trigger, problem with the camera or timing latency. In my setup I remember these issues : a) mechanical issues : if the pin did not catch the sprocket hole correctly or if dirt accumulated. b) timing issues : because I used a windows application I sometimes got several 100ms delay between the trigger and taking a picture. I had to move saving an image to harddisk to another thread because sometimes writing a file to harddisk took "very" long.

@nicolablasco

2 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Hi thanks for the reply. What is the other thread you used to save the photos? I rule out a mechanical or trigged problem. Do you think using linux or an SSD hard drive can help solve the problem?

@diycool9442

2 жыл бұрын

@@nicolablasco The program is written in c# and that language allows you to split an application in multiple parallel running applications ( threads). The thread that receives the image saves it to a buffer in memory and another thread saves the buffer to harddisk. this way the harddisk access does not delay the image taking. I measured the elapsed time at different positions in the program, that way I could see where most time is lost and work on that. Using a more real time OS (Linux) will help to. An SSD should be faster, but even then Windows might decide suddenly to store something big ...

@nicolablasco

2 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Hi, thanks for your reply. I changed hard drives and got an SSD but the problem remained. I tried at a speed of 0.75 fps but unfortunately it happens occasionally a few blurred frames. I think that for now the only solution is to manually remove the shaky frames. Until I can understand why this happens. I use the lightest program for windows called Xploview to acquire and to merge the frames and create the video use ImageJ. Thanks again and regards

Hi, can you tell me what size and type of stepper motor you used? Many thanks.

@diycool9442

3 жыл бұрын

Hello, it is a standard Nema17 ( 40x40mm) stepper motor. ( 1.8° step , 5V/0.5A )

@jayvadgama5663

3 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 That is great. Thanks for your prompt reply. Much Appreciated.

Hi, where do I find this software? Thanks

@diycool9442

8 жыл бұрын

I posted my c# code in this topic : www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=60402 See my post 2016/02/13, Pol Fieldman. The other software I used, you can just download from the internet.

@KlingKlang81

4 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 I asked me brother-in-law to download and compile it, but he can´t get it to compile as it should. He says it generates compilation errors. Could you publish a compiled program please? i would like to start with this, but i cant code a line of code myself. :(

@diycool9442

4 жыл бұрын

@@KlingKlang81 Hi, I can share the program ( see link below), but be aware the program I wrote has only been tested on my own PC and with one type of camera : manta G125C. So you can expect problems that can only by fixed by changing the code. (e.g. Windows 10, newer .net version, drivers , .... ).I would feel bad if you bought a camera only to find out you cannot get it to work. About the code : 1. I took a windows 7 PC ( that I never used before for this project) 2. I installed the Vimba environment. See www.alliedvision.com/en/products/software.html#agb-modal-content-5496 . Click download Vimba 3.0 windows, choose "application devolpment" when you run the download. 3. Then I used the vimba viewer tool ( installed above) to check the camera was correctly connected to the ethernet network. It worked fine. 4. I copied the "release" folder to this PC (this folder contains the executable). See drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Tjy--hqT7Hng8OkePDhMvGTuQ2qqAybU?usp=sharing 5. I opened the release folder and clicked "AsynchronousGrabForms.exe", this launched the program . Have fun trying, but remember my warning above !

What projector is it based on? Nice job by the way.

@diycool9442

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you. It is based on a Sankyo Dualux 1000 projector.

Did you ever fine tune this fantastic project? Would like to see more and get more info if you have not shelved this.

@diycool9442

5 жыл бұрын

I used it to copy all of my own reels, and about a year ago to copy 30 reels of a family member with the device as it is shown above. It would be nice to speed it up a bit, but as I am out of reels ( and working on other projects) I didn't do so. What more info would you like to see ?

@jamescummings9681

5 жыл бұрын

Ballpark Cost? If available - Info to reproduce and not bug you! Plans, sketches, software, model#s. Interested in selling working Unit?

@diycool9442

5 жыл бұрын

A few hundred € for the camera ( second hand ) , and maybe 100€ for other components ( stepper motor, ...) . The projector I did not have to buy. Parts of the schematic and software is partially available on www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=60402 (search for Pol Fieldman). But I realize this is not enough to duplicate the project...

Sorry to bother you again. I know it is a while back that you made this wonderful gadget, but do you happen to remember if the photos lined up? Were they slightly out of line from each other - not all, but some? It's only that I have made a capture gadget (different from above) and the individual photos as slightly out of sync with each other. I can use software to stabilise them, but I was just curious. Thank You.

@diycool9442

2 жыл бұрын

Hello, normally the photo's lined up very well (the white sprocket hole in the images only moved a few pixels). But I have seen some bigger vertical jumps. Then I stopped the conversion and looked for a cause of the problem. Dirt build-up in the movie path and the depth the needle goes into the sprocket hole are two causes I remember. Could also be caused by taking an image just before the film stops moving. In the Avisynth script I used there is some stabilization , but that is not to correct for this issue but to correct for shaking during filming.

@jayvadgama5663

2 жыл бұрын

@@diycool9442 Thanks for your prompt reply, much appreciated. I will check out the film gate.

@diycool -- Hi - would you be open to a conversation with me regarding a professional production interested in hiring you and this system? Thank you!

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

I am flattered that you ask, but I am afraid I can't help you with that because of an acute lack of time. ( dayjob & new project: metal detecting).

What lens are you using? Is your sensor C-mount?

@diycool9442

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Patrick, It is a Cosmicar/Pentax 25/1.4 C-mount TV lens ( see www.efixmedia.de/photography/2010/03/04/cosmicarpentax-251-4-c-mount-tv-lens-review/) I have a small collection of lenses from different sources, this one had a suitable focal length and fitted the camera (C-mount). So no special reason why it had to be this exact type.

@patrickjenner3211

6 жыл бұрын

Ah, how big was the sensor you were using? I'm looking at using a Point Grey Chameleon3, which has a 1/3 inch sensor.

@diycool9442

6 жыл бұрын

The manta G125C camera uses a Sony ICX445 sensor, this also is 1/3 inch. I think the 1/3 inch Chameleon uses the same sensor.

Amazing, it seems you are from Belgium, what's the price for the camera and lens, and where to find? Thanks. The best DIY system I saw sofar.

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Belgium, indeed. I Guess "Mechelen", "Lokeren" and the dutch talking gave it away ... I was lucky I could borrow a spare machine vision camera with lens. Maybe you could buy it second hand. I've seen it for sale online for approx €300. First I experimented with higher resolution webcams, but I wasn't happy with the dynamic range of them . The 12bit dynamic range and access to raw images made it fun to work with this camera. Other machine vision cameras problably offer the same advantages.

@vintagetelecinediy3537

7 жыл бұрын

Bedankt voor je reactie, kun je me eventueel de coördinaten van de tweedehands site bezorgen ivm met de vision camera? Keep in touch. Om de kosten te drukken zou ik starten met een EUMIG 610D, die kan zonder ombouw 3/6/12 frames per second..

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

Gewoon op Ebay. Van het type allied vision Manta G125C zie ik er momenteel geen staan. Er is wel een mako G125C te koop ( 250$+60$ shipping). Heeft dezelfde Sony ICX445 sensor aan boord, lijkt me gelijkwaardig als diegene die ik gebruikt heb. ( ‘k weet natuurlijk niet zeker of die helemaal compatibel is). Als je minimum snelheid 3 frames/s is moet je er wel voor zorgen dat je volledige captatie tijd binnen de ca 250ms blijft (marge is nodig omdat windows geen realtime OS is). Dus : exposure ( voldoende sterke belichting) -> copy naar PC (Gigabit Ethernet) -> verwerking beeld + opslagen op HD binnen de 250ms. Anders ga je frames missen. Op mijn setup haalde ik normaal 3 frames/s , behalve op sterk onderbelichte stukken waar ik de exposure soms tot 250ms opvoerde, en dan de captatie snelheid iets lager zetten.

@vintagetelecinediy3537

7 жыл бұрын

Bedankt, hoe kan ik je een prive mail versturen?

@vintagetelecinediy3537

7 жыл бұрын

Indien ik het goed begrijp 'sync" je rechtstreeks je camera via je reed relais en gebeurt de transmissie via ethernet, niet usb??

I had buyed a Wolverine pro... Its not pro It is a beginner in this type of capture and color correction and speed Control and transposition from analog to digital...

are you capturing in real time? not a pun ;)

@diycool9442

7 жыл бұрын

No, I am not capturing in "reel" time... I recorded all my films at approx 3 frames/s. If tuned a bit more the speed could be increased a bit more (e.g. 5 frames/s).

This is the unit that I built:- kzread.info/dash/bejne/iaan3Lt_o8qderg.html