Of Malaga’s “Best Things to See and Do”, Malaga’s Castle Gibralfaro should be on one's bucket list of European travel adventure. Its popularity rivals the Moorish Fortress Alcazaba, Malaga’s Cathedral, and the Picasso Museum, and is one of Andalucia’s Costa del Sol's treasures. Constructed in the 14th century, mostly by Yusuf 1, it was the Nasrid Kingdom’s final line of defense to prevent Christians from installing cannons on the mountain and bombarding from above.
Included in the defense plans was the “coracha”, a walled corridor that connected Gibralfaro to the Moorish Fortress Alcazaba below, and allowed the military to move securely between the two, as well as food and other supplies. Nevertheless, in 1487, a three month seige of the castle led by Catholic King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, forced the Arabs to surrender or starve to death.
The “way of the Coracha”, is a path outside of and parallel to the walls of the fortress and castle that brings one to the top of the mountain. It is a bit steep and can be difficult if one is not accustomed to at least a bit of strenuous exercise. Nevertheless, hearty older tourists accustomed to walking get by taking their time using walking poles.
Regardless of age or condition, the path is best taken with shoes having a good grip. Much of the way is paved with slate. On a rainy day the slate becomes quite slippery. On summer days between about 1pm and 6pm it can be very hot and one should carry water and wear a hat, or take the bus. There is a lot of walking once inside the Castle with many stairs, so save your energy.
Note that bus 35 takes one from the south side of Alameda Principal all the way to the Castle. If walking uphill is not your thing or it’s a rainy or very hot day, take the bus up. Once you have toured the castle, you can decide if you want to walk down and take in the views from an ever changing perspective.
The path begins near the far south end of Calle Alcazabilla, just past the entrance steps to Alcazaba. Look for Juan Temboury street which goes uphill and turns into the way of the coracha.
The walk up this path can be done in 30 minutes, but allowing for stopping for the views, taking photos, and an occasional rest, it’s more likely you’ll spend 45 minutes, The view from the breathtaking “Mirador de la Coracha” about 3/4 of the way up is a great place for reflection and photos.
If you do an afternoon visit, you may want to time your visit to arrive at the Castle about two hours before the stated closing time. This will offer the easier walk down the coracha and a stop at the mirador to watch the sunset. It’s is a memorable experience and a popular way to end a beautiful day. Tourists of all ages stop to watch the sun set over the mountains to the west with a spectacular view of the harbor, the Mediterranean, and Malaga.
Having noted that the Castle should be on one’s bucket list of things to see and do in Malaga, in all fairness it should be noted that the main attraction of Gibralfaro is the spectacular views. There is not a great deal to see inside the walls. If one must choose, one should probably tour Alcazaba. It also has great views, but the experience amplified with exposure to the palace, the beautiful gardens, intimate patios and water attractions.
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