That was explained so well. Excellent video.

@PanelsUpSolar

21 күн бұрын

Let us know if there is anything we can help with.

Excellent information!

@PanelsUpSolar

Ай бұрын

Please reach out if we can help with either solution.

Great teacher, nicely explained ! I am trying to wrap my head around all the various components of a Li setup in a van and this really helps!

@PanelsUpSolar

2 ай бұрын

Be sure to check out the next video that we are going to film today (Apr 25, 2024) for a new build we just finished. Multiple charging sources is really helpful in ensuring your system works well for you.

@karinwest919

2 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolar , I definitely will!! thanks for alerting me !

So if my LifePo4 batteries in my class c motorhome are fully charged at home on shore power before leaving on a trip and then by the generator before returning from the trip(or moving/traveling) I should not be worried at all about over heating the alternator? The alternator charging of the house batteries would be minimal?

@PanelsUpSolar

8 ай бұрын

If you have heavy gauge wire there is a possibility that required current to the batteries could be high as they are going to match the voltage of your starter battery and alternator. So it would be maxing out your alternator when the battery is climbing to that voltage. For a class c, I recommend going with the li BIM as it will allow you to maintain the stock features of boost assist if the starting battery were to go dead but also adds the ability that if the house batteries are receiving a charge through solar or being plugged in, the Li BIM will close the contact to the chassis battery for an hour to maintain the starting battery regularly as well.

@JohnnyBegoode-ox6ct

7 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolarso would maxing out the alternator for possibly 15 minutes occasionally be ok or bad? Sounds like it would be ok…?

I need help. Im trying to charge a 300 ah li battery's with my chasis battery. Ive decided to go with a dc to dc controller. And a switch in place of ignition. But my question is, does the dc to dc charger protect my car battery? Or do i need something else. I want it to.charge my li battery but not drain the chasis battery. I will long be running a 12v car fridge, and possibly a 12v rooftop ac

@PanelsUpSolar

Ай бұрын

the DC to DC charge controller can be set to automatically shut off if the supplying power source drops below a designated voltage. www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/index-en.html

My RV IS in the shop now and I’ve purchased lithium batteries but the shop told me installing those will ruin the Firefly system and burn the alternator it’s a Tiffin Open Road. So with this I can charge the battery while driving but the FIREFLY System is the light switches do you know anything useful I can look up to understand what they mean by it not being compatible with lithium.

@PanelsUpSolar

6 ай бұрын

The firefly system does not allow the system to be configured for the Lithium Charge Profile so the inverter/charger does not properly charge the system. The charging from the chassis battery would also not be able to go through the Firefly system. But it can still be accomplished. You should go through the shop that you bought your batteries through and get their recommendations.

Great video but man.. This stuff is killing me.. I’m an electrician but it’s like trying to understand Korean lol I’m just trying to add a second battery to our 4Runner.. potentially in a pelican case so we can remove it and use it like a generator. Do I really need to splurge on the dc-dc charger or can I use a red arc isolator? I do intend to have solar panels for backup but I assume the majority of the charges will be from the alternator or just topping it off in the garage. I’d gladly pay you for your time if you’d be willing to walk me through what I’m trying to accomplish here. Potentially through email? Or whatever you feel comfortable with.

@PanelsUpSolar

7 ай бұрын

If you are just charging a single battery, then setting up a simple charge circuit should not be difficult but you would want to make sure you do it so It doesn’t have the potential to cause any issues. The dc-dc charger will allow for a little better control to the charge as it will be able to charge with the correct profile. The Redarc with its built in MPPT is decent all in one solution but there is not any reason that a separate controller would work and maybe be just a little more flexible if you are going to keep the battery portable.

@ChristiannTyler

7 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolar awesome thankyou. I’m just trying to get all my parts together I’m currently looking into some different monitoring devices. I see a lot of options that monitor the input/output of a solar system but do you know of something that will monitor the input from the alternator as well as when it’s being charged via solar panels? I’m looking at the renogy 500a battery monitor with shunt and/or the DROK voltage/amp meter. Not sure if you’re familiar with any of these products or if I’m explaining this well lol but figured I’d take a shot and ask. Just want to be able to monitor what’s coming in and going out when it’s hooked up to the alternator and when it’s out at camp on the panels.

@PanelsUpSolar

7 ай бұрын

A simple Victron SMartShunt will be able to monitor the batteries from you. It won't necessarily tell you where the power is coming from but will tell you that it is flowing in or out. We have them in stock and ready to ship. Then as you grow the system, the Victron products will all talk to each other and if you get to a more comprehensive system you will be able to see a lot of detail. @@ChristiannTyler

I still feel at the end of the day the DC-to-DC charger is less stressful on the alternator. I wish Victron would come out with a 12v charger that’s a bit higher than 30 amps.

@PanelsUpSolar

7 ай бұрын

They did, www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger. Will be available soon.

@vincecarluccio5018

7 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolar Wow! Thanks for the info. I was not aware of this. Looks like it'll be available around April.

@tedutley859

4 ай бұрын

I'm also waiting in line for the orion XS. 50amps for hours of driving vs a BIM that hammers on the alternator for 40% of the drive. The ability to see exactly what its contribution to the house bank is not trivial, to me.

@PanelsUpSolar

4 ай бұрын

@@tedutley859 700 watts added to the average alternator is still going to be a heavy load. Especially if running it through long lengths of 4 awg wire. The communication portion is certainly going to be a nice addition for sure.

@tedutley859

4 ай бұрын

@PanelsUpSolar I have 180 amp alt, and 2/0 cable from alt to house batts. 4/0 to inverter. Not too taxed, buy I just can't get behind the BIM.

People keep saying "lithium will suck up as much power as the alternator can give it" regardless of what both theory (I=V/R) and empirical testing tell us. In practice most relay setups run *NEG return through the chassis* , introducing so much resistance that charge acceptance is quite mild. I have collected data on over 40 such installs (good, bad, and otherwise) and the average of the initial acceptance observed is *0.32C* , *0.2C* across the flat middle of the voltage curve, then tapering to *0.1C* at the upper knee. (the V delta decreases as bank voltage rises toward alternator voltage). *Real-time example* - my 150Ah LFP bank is at 58% this morning. I just started the engine (180A alt @ 14.2v) and observed a charge acceptance rate of 28.52A, or *0.19C* . Definitely not 150A (1C), which is what the BMS would otherwise let the bank suck from the alternator. Now if one /wants/ the lithium to "suck up as much power as the alternator can give it" the way to get that is to run a fat NEG wire back to the starter batt. Some people do this for practical purpose (e.g. 2nd alt with with external reg), and some do it for marketing scares (cough VICTRON / STERLING cough). One last point: at moderate charging rates LFP will charge to ~100% at 13.8v with less than a half-hour of Absorption. I typically disable my VSR at 13.7v and let the solar finish off the bank at 13.8v. Cells stay supremely balanced with this mild charging, like 6mV delta at 100% SoC.

@PanelsUpSolar

9 ай бұрын

Regardless of how you have your system set up the statement about lithium batteries still does not change. If your goal was to make a connection between the two you would want it to be the best it could be. When you started your engine and you measured your input to the battery, did you measure the output of the alternator? Do you know if your alternator was already maxed out and maybe the 28.52 amps was all it had to give?

@fratermus5502

9 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolarI know the rated output of the alt (180A) and the chassis load on the alternator (clamp meter). > If your goal was to make a connection between the two you would want it to be the best it could be Clearly not the case, or everyone would be running copper cable 1 foot in diameter. Maybe gold. > the statement about lithium batteries still does not change. Physics does not change: I=V/R

@PanelsUpSolar

9 ай бұрын

@@fratermus5502 Sorry I was believing this was a realistic conversation with some logic added for good measure. I assumed that with all the numbers you were throwing around that you knew that the rated output of the alternator and its true output were two different numbers. I also was under the impression that you realized that a lot of motorized RV's that were designed to have house battery charging from the alternator already come standard with the "fat Negative" battery cable as a requirement. They are configured that way to help overcome the restive challenges both in long wire runs and internal battery resistance. When a lithium battery is introduced, they have very little internal resistance so they can take a much larger charge from the charging source. Sometimes that current level is not sustainable for extended periods of time. Will it let out magic smoke? Possibly, but more likely it is just going to cause your alternator to reach its end of useful service at a much faster rate than originally designed.

@fratermus5502

9 ай бұрын

@@PanelsUpSolar If you do not understand the difference between rated output and measured output (both important to your question about whether or not the alt had capacity to make more current) then I give up. I do not believe you are discussing the matter in good faith. Good day sir.

@PanelsUpSolar

9 ай бұрын

@@fratermus5502 I do understand the difference between rated output and measured output. What you did not mention in your splatter of numbers is where you measured the amperage charge that you were seeing. You also did not mention a total output of the alternator to include engine electronics without the lithium batteries pulling a charge. You also failed to mention at what RPM you were running the engine at. And for you to think that I had anything but good faith in the sharing of information says more about you than me. I have seen the results of people running their alternators at a high output and low rpm and have seen some failures with some being more dramatic than others. I am simply providing information on two methods that people can utilize to assist in protecting their equipment. There is no scare tactic or flaming engine bays trying to get someone to purchase something that is not needed. Perhaps you could make a followup video that shows where my information went wrong. Obviously you feel like mine is misguided.