You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzread.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

Ditto on the. comments. I am cutting 12mm strips and you showed me the safest way - Already had one fly! tut tut. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I really like the tips aimed at alternative solutions for the shop that doesn't have every power tool in the book. I just bought my first table saw and love it. I can't wait to join the guild next!

This is why I watch all your videos. I saw this a week or so ago, and today i need to refer to it! Cheers Bloke!

I really like your presentation. The problem defined plus multi-solutions in a quick and easy to understand fashion. Thx.

Love the quick tips Marc. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks Wood Whisperer. Helped me out so much!

I've been wondering how to cut thin strips these past days to do an upcoming job and then this video comes up! Amazing tips Marc, thank you!

Thank you for the simple yet awesome ideas. As always

Loving these quick tips!!

Thanks Marc appreciate the tips.

Great tip Marc! Thanks!

Very informative. Thanks, Marc!

Some great classical tips Marc. I had actually forgotten two of them. I generally use your "stop" method. I choose to use a feather board as my stop which provides the added advantage of kickback protection.

Very cool tricks! I'll totally keep them in mind :)

I like these tips! Thanks

Very helpful tips. Thank you. Great shirt. Coffee is the best tool I own...for sure. Douglas.

Excellent. Thank you.

Great one... ! Keep those tips comming !

Yay, Marc's back!

That was useful to learn. Thanks!

I use solution number 2, with the piece of wood with the hook on the left side. It makes the piece of the same thickness without moving the fence. (I only do this on my SawStop saw)

Great tips...and a shirt!

great tips!

Thank you!

love the third technique.

Great! Thanks

First two make me nervous, but I like the third one. I normally use a piece of masking tape on the table with a pencil mark. A positive stop seems more repeatable!

Great Video Marc. Cutting thin strips on the table saw can be a little scary (hands on top of blade, kickback, etc). I like and use your third method. Thanks.

Rockler's Thin Rip Jig is a neat solution. It locks into the miter slot that the bearing makes it so that you don't have to be quite so careful when you're moving the fence over.

I like you video. Thank you buddy.

The first jig is very cool be perfect for making strips for cutting boards.

Nice video and some great tips. I have to cut a lot of 2mm strips, so I looked for ideas and this video was perfect. After considering the 3 strategies, my preference and vote is for jig - technique #2 for these reasons: aligning a fence to accurately bump against the stop block is really fussy. I would have to nudge the fence with the material to the correct position. When I throw my lever to tighten the fence, it throws the distance off slightly, so have to re-nudge. I typically need to do this 3 or 4 times. Since I’m fussing with the fence, I need to turn off the saw between cuts. What a bother! Another advantage to the 2nd technique: attach a small block of wood to the top of the jig, to act as a knob which is better than the pushrod, and then you can easily guide and steady the jig (with your right hand) while holding your material in your left hand.

Oh wow! This is great...a little late because I already did my Rooster Art for Summers Woodworking (Brian's) 2x4 challenge.

I use a modified version of your last one. I clamp a board at the right distance and about a couple inches before the blade. My blade is really good but my fence is in need of a tuning so I usually have to sand one end a little bit for evenness and small whorls from the side of the blade on the previous cut.

Hello Mark and nice job to show us how to cut thin strips of wood ... I am a fan of yours big time , and i was wondering about one thing ... can you .... in general way i'm asking , can you make a profile on your router first , like round over the edges , and then cutting like this on the table saw ? and again repeate the cut ? or it is better to glue them on the edge of the board and then routing ? Thanks for the answer when you have time ! Cheers !

Thank you soo much. A lot less dangerous how I was about to do it.

Thanks a lot for the very nice tips, it is very useful~!! I am sorry to ask would you mind to tell me what is the magnet call? Gonna need one for sure.

All my cats have just run out the cat flap. It sounded like a machine gun going off.

Love the spidey poster!

I like the little magnet option, I never tought of that!

@mikes8839

4 жыл бұрын

As long is your table top is cast iron, if you have aluminum that is not going to work

I'd love to know how do you trim it after to get that final look

Hi ,Do you have any good ideas on how to adjust the fence on my delta 36-725 ? I have tried adjusting the screws for years and no bueno it still cuts thicker on one end than the other one.

I use the third solution, but I have a thin strip ripping jig from Rockler (though others make them too) that locks into one of miter tracks in the table.

If you want to conserve wood with this method, you could simply use a Freud demolition blade from home depot (or wherever). While meant for a circular saw (7 1/4), these blades have shockingly perfect cut quality and have a very thin kerf. Best thing is, they have value packs from time to time. Two blades for $15. I've been using them as the main blade in my table saw since I saw Mafe's tip on Lumberjocks. Very long lasting.

I cut a lot of thin stuff on the table saw. Unless it's very thin, I usually use a 1/4" thin strip as a push stick. That is, cut a thin strip that looks about like a yardstick (say 1/4"x1.5"x24"), and cut a notch in the end to grip the workpiece. When you cut strips less than the thickness of the push stick, the blade will mill the last 3 inches of the push stick down to the thickness you need. Works very well down to about 1/8" strips. Thinner than that and the end of the stick breaks off, so you would need to use one of the other methods.

How consistent are the strips in thickness compared to one another when constantly moving the fence for each additional strip and with a magnetic stop. I like the idea of a stop in lieu of a jig that I have to makeup.

Very cool solution. I don't yet have a zero-clearance plate, but one's on the shipping list. What kind of magnet is that you're using?

This is just great! Could you please just let me know what is exactly name of that magnet if I want to buy it on ebay. And another thing please... as I have just started, I have a problem with the wood moving away from the fence during the cut on already cut part. How to prevent that? Thank you !

Marc: Very nice job on the video. Your "teaching" style is cool, laid back and secure. Can you give me some tips or advice? Just trying to do some beginner level woodworking. I have a basic (lower level) table saw (Dewalt -- only about a 2 sq ft table) and a small band saw (for small to medium jobs). (1) I need to cut short pieces of wood trim with a triangular pattern (to be painted and used for setting up door-window sensors on a couple of windows). How does one cut a triangular piece (triangle lengths 3/4", 3/4" and about 1.1") and overall length 3"? (2) Any book, article or other resource on how to get a basic foundation of woodworking? (3) What kind of stain, polyurethane, or lacquer would you use for clear satin finish on natural pieces of woodwork (display boards, artwork frame, etc)? Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.

You can use a 7-1/4" blade in the table saw for a pretty thin kerf for this kind of thing. Obviously you are reducing your max depth of cut but I can just make it through 8/4 stock, if it's already planed down to 1-3/4", in one pass. Anything thicker than that and you should be using the band saw anyway. I have a variation of the second method where the jig fits over the fence and sits over the stock so there's no way it can lift up on you. Only practical on short stock.

@JustMakeIt

9 жыл бұрын

Having a 7-1/4 and an 8-1/4 40t lying around has saved my butt a few times.

slick!

ty! great solutions to buy and build. needed it for a new order! SoFloCoastal

I like it, I like it a lot.

What are you using for a push stick? Brand?

Good info I made a jig just for that. and did a video on it.

You should also have mentioned to use a zero clearance insert in your table saw when making these types of cuts so you don't accidentally drop one of those thin strips between the blade and the insert and have the potential for the blade to throw that piece across your shop. I actually leave the zero clearance insert in my saw all the time now, it makes for a more stable surface pushing material through the saw anyways rather than having the standard insert with a wider blade opening.

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

William Todd I guess I made the mistake of assuming everyone should already have a zero clearance insert. Good point.

@nicholassmerk

9 жыл бұрын

William Todd Yep, I've dropped pieces through my saw...

I like your shirt marc!

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

Joe Walters Thank your sir. My buddy Scott bought for me a few years ago. One of my favorites!

@tooljunkie555

9 жыл бұрын

The Wood Whisperer​​ your welcome! It'd be a favorite of mine as well..i Was hoping you'd say your store has em' :)

How can I cut those thin strips the other way? So the end result would be a piece 3/16 × 1/4 × several feet long? Any ideas?

Personally, I like the second way the best. Commercial push blocks are quite expensive (and I don't even know if they are available in Slovakia) and the third method requires a magnet (with will not hold on my melamine board of my self-made table saw table (circular saw turned upside down) and my self-made fence is not so easily to move exactly another 4 mm or so. You mention as a drawback the limited length of the strips you can make with the second system. What is the max length (in your eyes, considering that not everybody has your skills/experience) for the thin strips to make in the second method?

Wish I had seen this earlier. I cut a bunch Sunday the first way you mentioned. Next time I will do it better. Thanks.

0:46 what is dicey?

👍

What magnet is that?

Yeah, good stuff. I use a zero clearance insert, thin rip blade and a jig but I appreciate the info. Rather use the table saw for this than the bandsaw mostly because my bandsaw is a POS.

I like the third way too , can you provide a way that works on a non magnetic table saw top

@JH-mo1nt

4 жыл бұрын

I'm facing the same on one of those dewalt portables, thinking an adjustable stop that uses the other miter track will do the trick.

My strips are wonky when trying to make wood mosaics . They don’t join properly . How can I correct that. ?

Marc - do they not make thin kerf tablesaw blades for this purpose and if so about how much of a difference would it make?

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

Robert Tucker They do make thin kerf blades. The difference would be the exact difference in thickness between the thick and thin kerf blade. :) In the end, it could help you get an extra piece out of a board by saving a little on each cut.

@RoborobsComputers

9 жыл бұрын

makes sense. - thanks for the reply.

I'm new to this so you may have addressed this in the past: I noticed in your videos that you use your bandsaw frequently to do ripping. What are your reasons for this?

@woodwhisperer

7 жыл бұрын

It can be much safer than the tablesaw. At the table saw, if the wood decides to move and bend in on itself, it can pinch the blade and cause kickback. So on really long or rough stock, it's much easier and safer to rip at the bandsaw where kickback isn't an issue.

@PeterPounders

7 жыл бұрын

Yup. Just finished watching the Calendar episode. Thanks!

when you get close to the blade in your 2nd process and are worried about your fingers, take a long piece of wood and put a screw in the end. this will secure the remaining piece without endangering your fingers

Your last method only works if your saw top surface is ferrous metal. Mine is not so magnets do not stick to it. I like the second method since you never have to readjust the fence. Less to go wrong moving it.

Is that a 60t blade? I asked because it looks so smooth! I was told a 200t blade will cut it so it won't need any sanding to glue...

@woodwhisperer

8 жыл бұрын

That's just my regular 40T blade. A 200 tooth blade will likely cut incredibly smooth, but is also a lot more likely to burn.

@krank2kold

8 жыл бұрын

+The Wood Whisperer ok thanks man. I guess a 60t will do it

There is a fourth method that I use a lot. set the fence to the thickness you want, move the blade all the way down, put your stock on there, then clamp a scrap block above it, above your blade. take your workpiece out, and raise the blade until it just cuts into the scrap block. set up a featherboard, and you're good to go to safely cut hundreds of teeny tiny strips. Push the last bit through with another piece of scrap.

@hansdegroot8549

6 жыл бұрын

I'm afraid I do not understand this fourth method :-(. Where do you place the featherboard? If on the side of the fence, don't they mind each other? If on the opposite side of the fence, is it not necessary to move the featherboard after each cut because of the fact that the plank of wood of which cut the thin strips becomes less and less wide after each cut?

I like the second method, but I can cut thin strips of 1/16 thickness right on the fence side all day long, with a trick my wood worker mentor shown me. hint : Well glued Formica on the pushing block. the only thing is, once there is 1/4 " of wood left it becomes dangerous. And lets not forget the Zero clearance insert is a must!

I like the magnet trick, but what about us jokers that have aluminum for a table top? Any suggestions would be grateful.

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

Robert Barcus The video showed an alternative suggestion. A 2x4 and a clamp. :)

@robertbarcus1963

9 жыл бұрын

Thank you much and love your smart ideas, keeps me coming back for more of you awesome videos...

@harrykline3998

9 жыл бұрын

Robert Barcus Robert, you can also buy a stop block that secures to your t-track. I bought this one and love it: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048J720U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

@robertbarcus1963

9 жыл бұрын

Harry Kline Thanks for the tip. I'm getting one of them:)

Dude. I can't find that magnet. Where'd you buy it??

@woodwhisperer

8 жыл бұрын

amzn.to/1UXf7TT

@jofritz

8 жыл бұрын

+The Wood Whisperer thanks!

At about 1:40 in this video WoodWhisperer is holding a yellow accessory in his left hand. Can someone identify it and describe how it's used.

@fsckedagain

6 жыл бұрын

magnetic featherboard.

Yes thats working indeed, but if the surface is als,…….. than is a magnet unuseful.

I ment . Aluminium

why can't you just use the third method without the magnet?

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

En Zed because you have to reset your fence perfectly every time. The magnet indexes the cut each time.

@eneasadiku9836

9 жыл бұрын

The Wood Whisperer Oh right, makes sense. Thanks.

The Wood Whisperer what woodis that at 2:04

I've been cutting strips as thin as 0,5 mm on my table saw. This video correctly identifies the problem : pushing them past the blade at the end of the cut. I've always been able to shift my position during the cut so that I can PULL the work piece & the strip out from behind the blade. If I'm not planing the strips afterwards, but still want decent accuracy, I use 'feathers' to press the work piece against the fence. The solutions presented in the vid seem overly complicated...

@woodwhisperer

9 жыл бұрын

barkebaat How so? These are solutions to a fairly challenging issue. Curious how you might simplify them.

You must have got a number of tattoos (sleeves) in the past 2 months.

Note: do not use your power tools to skin cats.