you should make more videos. this is really nicely explained. you learn a lot from making gear, and having people who have, tell you about it.

Ingenious!!!!!! Love it. Hope FS folks see this. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for this great video! It is so nice to bump into stories or videos and see other people doing the same I do, modifying equipment trying to find the best result. It is the combination of all those great ideas that gets you to your almost perfect solution which can be different for anyone of us :) Some thoughts witch mite be interesting for others, I modified the original Red QR release handle. It is designed in a way it grabs hold on anything near it which is in fact the real problem with accidentally opening the chicken loop. Therefore I grinded off a lot of excess material without reducing its strength and since then it never opened unintentionally and works perfect.

Great job !!! Really nicely made flux of info, great job at sequencing the presented parts from down the loop all the way up to fly-lines. Overall a better job then actual brand-presenters are doing !!! Keep it up and have fun with it !!!

Nice video! I actually did the same thing with my Flysurfer bar a year ago. I love it! The amount of depower is so great specially with hydrofoiling. The oversheeting option on your bar was new to me. Smart move :) I use my bar on all my kites (Flysurfer, ozone, F-One).

Greetings from Belleville, Ontario, Canada. Great video, clearly explained. I just picked up a used Sonic 2 for snow kiting and first thing I noticed was a lack of Oh Sheet handles like I have on my old Pulse bar. The loop handles on the Pulse make it really easy to anchor the kite to an ice screw. I’ll follow your example and modify the new bar, maybe put a clamcleat on it too. Cheers!

I have thought about the leader lines in the past as well. For training I make my flying lines 1m shorter and change out the part that rubs so I am not changing all the lines all the time. The only downside with your thicker lines is that its more drag. Like to see what everyone else is doing to customize their bar. Thanks for sharing happy riding.

good video, very informative. thanks

Thanks for the post, informative and well explained 👍🏻👍🏻

oliver flew to outer space with this setup and never came down again hence the 1 video. haha

For the longest time the trim system line was bothering me getting tangled... Cut it to have 2cm spare now... Ill have to reach up but at least no more 1m of line getting in the way.. surprised you like having it there

Nice

Very nicely done Oliver! One question. Have you chosen to use the sleeved rope in the end due to it being stiffer and less prone to tangle compared to the grey unsleeved dyneema? I imagine grip/friction in the grey dyneema would be no issue with a 4:1 compared to for getting a good grip when pulling in on a ordinary 2:1 ?

Hi Oliver, very nice bar and nice system Will be possible to order for you something like this but withaut bar only the line sistem? Thanks Paul

nice! So how much did cost this set-up?

Hey, thanks for your Video Mate! I like your style alot. May I ask if you updated your design in the past 2 years? Im considering some upgrades on my side too and would be curious for yours. Some Q: You measured 3.90m leader lines. Why 3.90m? Ive calculated that with 60cm bar/30m Lines/smallest 4m Kite, you would need that, but no regular 6-16m Kite on 24m Lines will have an intersection further out than ~2.3m. So, I consider to use 2.5m Liros Slide Protect XTR ontop of some Liros DSL or PPSL (sheeted Dyneema already) for extra stiffness of the lines. What do you use?

Hey Oliver greetings from Wasaga beach Ontario Canada. GREAT Video. I also make my own bar setup recently I made a copy of Greg Drexlers kite bar for the cloud kite from Board riding Maui . I really like your modified flysurfer bar as I agree with the shortcomings. As I also have a kite buggy , Popeye the welder has a good video on tieing the brimmel knot which as you know is key to making your own dynema lines and modifying your bar! It seams you have two ways of flagging the kite ,one by hand and the other with the original ring at the chicken loop is that correct? One on the back line and the other on the front is that correct?

@ojyk

4 жыл бұрын

Hi James, thanks for the info. I'll check out those guys. Yes two systems. The normal 5th line attached to the front line and a leash. And the oh sheet on the steering line. I'll do some more videos at some point showing how to use the oh sheet and how I attach it all to my sliding spreader bar.

@urloa

2 жыл бұрын

@@ojyk Hi Oliver Greetings from Spain. I dont understand how do you use the front-line safety. Is conected to a secondary leash? In that case for a total release you would have to pull three systems, QR + suicide + front line. I woul only use the suicide mini leash attached to the second leash ¿? Could you explain please? Thanks for the video

@ojyk

2 жыл бұрын

@@urloa yes full kite release would require releasing all 3 systems. What I tend to do is put a normal long leash onto the ring on the end of the 5th line. Then connect the chicken loop to my harness. Then I launch the kite and head out into the sea. Once I am out at sea I connect the suicide leash to a ring on the front of my harness. Then at the end of my session, before I get back to the beach, I release the suicide leash. That way I am never on land attached to the suicide leash, only when out at sea. It's a bit of an unusual setup. Probably too complicated for some people, but I like the flexibility and security of it. I don't want to be out at sea with a kite on the 5th line by mistake. Chances of a successful relaunch are slim. So this system reduces the risk of swimming. Hope that answers your question.

@urloa

2 жыл бұрын

@@ojyk yes! Thanks I understand now why use three systems. Maybe a bit complicated, but if you are experiencing unexpected releases... Worth the effort. Take a look at infexion QR systems to avoid unexpected releases

Really good explained how you build what you did and why, super with all the links where you bought the lines etc. The green side of the bar is suppose to be on your right side so you have it correct, also smart to colour one of the bar ends for extra safety. Question, to me the Ronstan Sheaveless compact blocks looks neater then the rings, any thoughts? www.ronstan.com/marine/shocks.asp

@ojyk

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Yes they look really nice. I guess they will do just as good a job or maybe better. One issue with these low friction components is if you get sand in them, then they get scratched and the friction goes up. So it's important to stay away from sand.