Curved Stairs - Part 1
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
In 2004 I visited an amazing building in the state of Illinois called the Nauvoo Temple. Inside there's an incredible spiral staircase traveling many floors that inspired me to someday do something similar in my own home.
Nine years later after I had gotten married and we were planning and designing our house I drew a round staircase that would be freestanding on the inside stringer.
I built a round wall and began bending the ¼” sheets of Lauan plywood, which I cut into 16” strips, and attaching them to the curved wall using Titebond Original Wood Glue, applied with a paint roller and 18 gauge 1” x ⅛” crown staples. One. Layer. At a time.
Once the stringer was 2” thick, there wasn't much reason to continue making the stringer 16” high. 2” was plenty for the treads to rest on. so carefully plotting each rise and run on the stringer, I cut out what I could with a circular saw and finished it with the Sawzall.
All remaining 16” strips of Luan plywood were cut down to 8” and the process continued. at this point it was about making a curved 6-inch-thick beam A total of more than 15,000 staples were used to hold the laminations together.
From here it was downhill. My brother and I cut the risers and treads from 1 ⅞” thick LVL’s then using more Titebond Original and Simpson SD-6 screws, screwed them all together, from risers to treads (from beneath), and from treads and risers (from above) and both treads and risers to the stringer, and it was solid. While I was building the stringer I was worried about it being bouncy… Not at all.
It was a journey from educating myself, to design, to build and completion, but it was well worth the work.
In time the round walls were covered with drywall and painted, but now, over 3 years later, we’re finishing the basement and the wall has been removed and it’s time to finish this project once and for all.
I’m keeping the treads that I installed originally. They were glued down and they’re not coming off. So, using a template I’m cutting each tread with a multitool and sawzall.
(music plays)
At this point I am ready to begin adding more curved pieces of ¼” Luan, which I’m ripping into 16” strips, to the inside of the stringer. More Layers, More Titebond Red, More Clamps, More Staples.
Now originally I was planning on removing these pieces once they were all installed and finished, and taking them to a local cabinet shop to be stained. Ultimately I had a painter come and apply the stain, so using so many layers at this point was a waste of time. I could have skipped to the final layer of ¼” MDF with this alder veneer.
Using a sawsall I’m cutting out each of the treads and removed any excess material from the bottom side.
I’ve traced and scribed to get the shape of each shoe (which is where the ballastars attach) and now cutting each of them out on the bandsaw.
I’m fairly worried about the knewel post at the bottom of the stairs being knocked loose in the years to come after I’ve gone to all the effort of installing it, so I’m going to use some ¼” steel plate (just some scraps that I had) to build a bracket that will let me bolt the post to the concrete.
This is the shape of the bracket that I’m bolting down, and I started cutting it out on the band saw, which when I broke my first blade, and then threw my last blade, I thought to myself “Self, why aren't you using your plasma cutter?”
We I actually had never used the plasma cutter before, it was just sitting on the cart, So I made the remaining cuts freehand with the plasma and IT. WAS. INCREDIBLE. It really made short work of the steel...even tho the quality of the cut looks like it was my first time using it, because i was.
These two pieces of plate will be separated by 6” or so but they need to be lined up, so I’m drilling all the necessary holes at the same time to bolt it to the concrete.
Inside the wood knewel post there will be a steel post that will be Welded to these plates, so it will pass through the top plate and be welded to the bottom plate.
This pipe is 1-⅝” OD and spans the gap between the top and bottom plates around the perimeter. The concrete bolts will be installed down and through these pipes. In some cases I’m banging it around to make sure that the piples are centered up over the hole on the bottom plate to make sure there’s clearance for the shoulder of the screw, and to make sure there’s room for the socket that I’ve got to also get down inside the pipe.
Just to make sure I don’t ever regret not securing the post well enough, I’m going to add two more concrete screw for the heck of it. . There’s no kill like overkill but once this thing is bolted down and covered up there will be no way secure it any better, so it’s now or never.
Music:
Ben Sound - Happy Rock
www.bensound.com/royalty-free...
Motocross by Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
• Topher Mohr and Alex E...
Пікірлер: 45
Beautiful! Something to be proud of. Great job! I was a carpenter contractor for 3 decades, 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s. Back in the 70’s I took on a job that had a sweeping spiral staircase, got wider towards the bottom. Having never built one before had me a little nervous to say the least. I didn’t even know anyone that ever built one and of course this was before PC’S and the internet. This was really weighing on my mind. The guy that taught me the trade had given me some good advice when I first launched out on my own having only built crackerbox type houses and now beginning to get into custom built homes. He told me if I ran into something complicated don’t try to think about it just start and it will work itself out, this was great advice and served me well but a spiral staircase, having NEVER done one was quite the challenge. Then one night I dreamed I built a spiral staircase, I was so into it in the dream. The next day I new exactly what to do and I built the spiral staircase just like I did in my dream. Turned out beautiful! I really believe it was Devine inspiration as this was the case a few times later as needed. Never had the opportunity to build one again but now I knew I could with a little help from above.
@emmanuelhamisi3050
6 ай бұрын
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Ive been looking for the curve staircase concept. This was an excellent video on just that. I also want to tip my hat to you sir as you're an artist and tradesman combined. Thank you for taking you're time out to share a massive project.
You are a super organized BEAST. Was waiting to see more videos. Thanks
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Haha thanks Jesus. Working on the next video today actually.
Nice job man and beautiful finish
"No Kill like over Kill" love it! Cant wait for the next video
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Did you like the back to the future bit?
I love the Back to the Future bit!
Beautiful😍😍
You have a beautiful mind brother.
You have to pull when using a plasma cutter. They have “drag tips” for you to drag not push. Your cuts will come out so much better.
You came back to videos, thats great.
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Working on Curved Stairs - Part 2 right now :-)
@restoreiteasy3873
5 жыл бұрын
Just keep up, you are having a great channel.
@jonathonphillips5832
4 жыл бұрын
Restore It Easy joatnh
Nice project,
its great to see a skillful operator in action. I once worked on a three storey Victorian house in London which had a single string from top to bottom. Do you know how they twisted this into position?
15,000 staples! Damn!
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Haha!
I think over kill on that metal landing thread/newel post anchor, but ok.
I don't understand why you needed to add more curved plywood for the stringer? And also why you cut every single tread? I get why you cut the first one to add the steel reinforced newel post. But the rest?
Can u let me know how did you frame under the stairs and you used Drywall flexible? Is there any vibration when your coming down? Mine is the main staircase
I see you removed studs from one side
You just Like Me
Класс лайк мендан.
What's the labor price on thise project 🤔
please can you advise me.....the bending ply was ripped in long sections ....how did you determine the angle of the riser to ensure the curve was correct?
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
I am happy to help. Can you please rephrase the question? I'm going what you're asking.
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Maybe you meant to ask how I determined the angle of the stringer?
@brianlouw1187
5 жыл бұрын
yup ...sorry was not concentrating.....yes how does one determine the angle of the stringer and then translate that to a cut on your ply
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
How far along are you on the project? Is it all on paper at this point or do you have a hole in the floor already and you're building the stairs? As for the angle: The angle of the stairs is dictated by the geometry of the framing...You have to consider the headroom as you ascend and descend, as well as how much travel you have, etc. To answer your question simply, I ripped all the pieces of ply down to 16", then once I figured out the angle I just tacked up the ply at the proper angle and then drew a level line across the bottom the show me the angle. Then I just chopped off the triangle, and that was the angle. I then removed that piece and set it down on the floor. Drive some nails into the form wall as guides so that when you're gluing up the ply you put it at the proper place. Have people there to help you and go to town. You don't have to be tight tight where your layers come down to the floor. Just get within an inch on the bottom with your pieces, then every 3 or 4 layers just cut it off with a skill saw, and then you're all done just put a piece of treated under it. Are you going to be attaching your ply layers to the inside of the form wall, or outside, like I was doing?
@brianlouw1187
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you....i have a manufacturing facility and were requested to do a circular staircase with a central spiral stringer......if you give me you email i will show you what we eventually managed to do .....but we we made SO many mistakes along the way and you seemed to have a really easy way to do it......we had an outside circular brick wall against which the architect and engineer designed a rolled steel outer stringer plate bolted to the wall.....this plate was bridged to our plywood spiral stringer with flat treadplates on which we attached 45mm shaped treads......we battled with the laminating of the spiral....hence the question..
What did you do with all the spring clamps you bought
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
What do you mean?
@juanmarta2945
5 жыл бұрын
The Concrete Box you said you bought all those clamps for the stairs project, i thought after finishing the project you had now too many haha of you don’t know what to do with them you may wanna sell them to me, just wondering
@TheConcreteBox
5 жыл бұрын
Oh no I use those all the time for just whatever. They have them for cheap at...pretty much anywhere.
@aissaelbahwa916
5 жыл бұрын
iwa
I want both sides open. I'm on a few forums but nothing specific to curved stairs Any guidance where to go? I'm only on FB for social media, but I'm absolutely wanting to join a real forum..
@scottwright388
6 ай бұрын
I've built free standing open both circulars. The width of the stringers adds strength as well as thickness. I would also add a center stringer, and make sure the stringers are anchored securely at the foot.
Dude 15 thousand staples big yikes
Real craftsmen can built whatever they want, and it doesn't have to be connected to any any professional techniques or industry standards. Earning a living at it is a whole different story. For that one needs to work for someone who is already doing that. Unfortunately you'll also learn all the ways to short-cut and produce an inferior product to what you would do for yourself. Two thumbs up on this although coming from a former, retired professional, your Diy project bears little resemblance to anything actually being produced today or in the past. Still looks good though.
1) Do not run band saw blades so fast.! You were pushing hella hard, I could see. 2) Use oil with it. If it was really 1/4" thick, remind yourself of step 1. 3) Using oil or lubricant, make sure it is constantly lubricated. Keep an oil can with you. 4) wear PPE! 5) Stop running it so fast! 6th and final critique use oil on pretty much anything metal. Especially the band saw and hole saws... night and day difference. Youd get fired ever running drills or any of that without lubricants. Bit breakers are bit buyers as they say... Cool build. 😎 i would have bought better clamps at the end... i see the real craftsmen. Gluing both sides, clamping final with goo-out and screwed finished.
@TheConcreteBox
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips!
This not built good