How do you build curbless showers? Does the new materials make it more likely that you would want one in your home?

@draconicwindbane2056

5 жыл бұрын

Good old fashioned pan liner or schluter! You guys do amazing work

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

5 жыл бұрын

Draconic Windbane Thank you, we try. 😁

@cwb124

3 жыл бұрын

Well after watching yours and Schluter videos, I'm doing it just like that. Quick question. What happens if the shower pan drain hole falls right on top of a joist? Would I be forced to cut my schluter pan so that the ends are no longer equal distance from the center of the drain? I imagine that changing by 2"-3" wouldn't be a problem?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

@@cwb124 you’d want to move the pan over one way or another. If a level perimeter is important to you I’d have a custom shower pan made. Built With Foam is a great place to order from and they have fast turnaround. They will make a custom pan with the drain located where you need it. The perimeter would then be the same height all around.

@chasearjun2744

3 жыл бұрын

Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can stream all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been watching with my brother for the last few days xD

Best tutorial, great job, and thank you

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Are you doing something like this now?

I will be putting in my first.thanx for the vid

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching.

Question: is the objective to have the edges of the shower tray level with the Ditra studs for the rest of the room? Is the Schluter tray presloped?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

5 жыл бұрын

+Beech1900pilot Yes, the goal is to have the top of the tray even with the top of the Ditra. The Schluter pans are presloped so we don’t have to worry about the middle of the pan holding water.

Great Job. What camera did you use to record with?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

I use a GoPro Hero 5 and 7. The 7 is new, so this is likely the Hero 5. It’s very durable and does a good job.

My new building has the I beam joists made of OSB. I doubt I should take any of that material off like you did here with just over 3/8"??? That would compromise the strength of the joist??

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

5 жыл бұрын

+The Invitation You would be correct. I Beam joists cannot be cut down at all. If you remove the 3/4” plywood subfloor exposing the top of the I Joist you can sister lumber to the sides of the joist. Once you have the sides built out flat you can then sister lumber 3/4” down from the top of the joist and cut strips of plywood to fit between them. This lowers your floor 3/4”. Most foam pans are 1” at the perimeter and if you then lay 1/4” thick material in the rest of the bathroom you have a curbless shower.

@theinvitation4945

5 жыл бұрын

@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Thanks. I think my fail is that I've purchased the Prova pan. It's got a 1.625" profile. So my bathroom floor with 1/4" tile will be 7/8". I think the flooring just outside the bathroom is 3/4"

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

5 жыл бұрын

+The Invitation are you doing the job yourself? If you haven’t started yet you can always order a custom pan that is no more than 1” thick. Rodkat (have to Google him) makes custom pans as well as USG (durock manufacturer). Both will make pans to your spec including drain location and will also be quick turnaround. Worth checking out if you have a few days.

@theinvitation4945

5 жыл бұрын

@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy I had thought the Prova was going to be much cheaper esp considering the 11% Mendard's rebate, but I just speced out the Schluter (1 1/8" profile). It's about the same cost. So thanks for helping me think through these details. I hope you are getting good business for your trade. Peace

Nice

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

Жыл бұрын

Thank you

I question the deflection on that floor, not sure that those 2x6 are rigid enough for a tile installation

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

According to a deflection calculator 2x6 floor joists can span eight feet. These are spanned around 7 feet if I remember correctly. We were actually just at this house a couple months ago to look at another project. Everything looks like it was just installed yesterday.

I'd like to see example of this using linear drain. Getting ready to gut my 76 yr bathroom

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

I find it hard to do a curbless with a linear drain. Some guys put the drain at the door and slope the floor up from there. The water then runs toward the door and some will escape. Putting the drain against the wall requires a deeper floor recess. It can be done, just a bit more tricky is all.

Why didnt you us ditra XL to make up the difference?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

2 жыл бұрын

The height at the doorway didn’t allow for the additional height. Taking less than 1/4” off the floor joists isn’t enough to be considered a notch according to our local building inspectors.

So, I wouldn't have cut the joists down. You want the pan edge to be 1/4" above the plywood. Then when you install your underlayment, ditra, or hardibacker, your tile floor will be same height as the edge of the shower

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

Ditra is 1/8” thick. There’s a solid hardwood floor at the transition of this bathroom. Cutting less than 1/4” off the top of the floor joists doesn’t change their deflection and load, it does allow us to use regular Ditra and have a flush transition at the door.

@ryannastaj

3 жыл бұрын

So, how would one accomplish this without cutting the joists. The issue I see is the straightness of the cut with the hackzall.. so if the pan is ¼ above.. can't you slap something ¼ plywood down?, So then how would you transition to for eg; Pergo+LVP in the rest of the bathroom floor? And then, a transition strip at the br door???

@hereticxxx9317

2 жыл бұрын

@@ryannastaj use ditra xl, its 5/16" thick

Using. A router will be easy and quick...byw why doing that if you have a waterprofing underlayment you can instal directly over the plywood [ waterprofing first] wi th a little slope where the drainage is....

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

This is how we build showers. Doing it like this gets us a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer. Doing things differently may work and will likely lose the associated warranty as well. Thank you for commenting, I appreciate it.

How do I get a custom pan made?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

There are places that sell custom pans that work with Schluter and other manufacturers. Built With Foam out of Houston, Texas does a great job and they’re very fast turnaround as well. Otherwise if you can order a larger pan you can cut them down to fit your shower. Thanks for the comment, I really appreciate it.

Are those 2x4 floor joists?

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

If I remember correctly they are 2x6 spanning about 6.5’ between beams. The may be just under 6’ between supports, I don’t remember for sure now.

If you're "sistering" a joist to regain strength, you need to go from beam to beam and put a lot more fasteners in it. The sistering you did here accomplished very little, if any, added support. Ideally, you would have sistered them with another 2x6 that is cut down to the same dimension and then shoot 2 rows of nails staggered at 12"-16". You'll probably get away with it in this case, but keep this in mind in the future.

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

4 жыл бұрын

We aren’t cutting into the joists enough to change their load ability. The 2x4 is only to hold up the plywood. The building inspectors in our area aren’t concerned with notches less than 1/2” deep. We cut this down about 3/8 which is roughly 1/8” more than we need.

@tsmall07

4 жыл бұрын

@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Understood, which is why I said you'll probably get away with it. I was just pointing out that the sistering was not effective in adding strength to the joists as you stated in the video. More for the benefit of people watching this video and thinking this is the proper way to sister a joist. I'm a home inspector and I see improperly sistered joists all the time. It would have been better to say that the 2x4s are there only to hold the plywood rather than to say that they make the joists stronger than they were before. Accuracy is important.

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

4 жыл бұрын

I agree and understand your point.

@billymacktexasdetective5827

Жыл бұрын

@@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy Instead of cutting the floor joists, why aren't you using Ditra XL? You aren't removing 1/2" of width on a load bearing member where I live, unless of course you skip the building permit. My local inspectors would laugh at me if I tried this...

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

Жыл бұрын

I’m just repeating what my local inspectors told me. Anything less than 1/2” and they don’t count it as a notch. Your inspector may be different.

Yeah your not supposed to cut out that foam on the tray

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

3 жыл бұрын

The drain cutout?? It’s definitely able to be removed, that’s why it’s perforated like that. Plumbers can set the drain and I could set the pan around it and be compliant if a licensed plumber is necessary. As long as everything is set in mortar correctly there is no issue with it being done this way. Thanks for commenting, I appreciate it.

I can’t see through the guys back.

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry

Plumbing does not meet code

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

4 жыл бұрын

+Jamie McPherson Thank you for commenting. The drain connection at the main trunk isn’t approved, and you’re right it would likely fail an inspection. There is a vanity, laundry and stool above the shower connection and showers don’t have many solids go down the drain. I’m confident the odds of a clogged drain pipe are very low. Do you disagree?

@jamieplumber

4 жыл бұрын

The size of the drain is fine and blocking is not necessarily a concern. You are not allowed to have a TY fitting on its back and after the p trap you installed a 90 degree elbow pointing down. By doing this the shower is no longer vented. Next time install a wye fitting on the side and have the horizontal section after the p trap go into the wye. You are allowed 135 degrees of charge before your vent. This design is also assuming the larger drain your connecting to is a “ wet vent”

@jamieplumber

4 жыл бұрын

The reason why you can’t install the piping the way you did is because the water in the p trap could potentially be siphoned out and allow sewer gases to escape

most fucked up floor joists ever

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

2 жыл бұрын

I’ve seen worse

This is not right man.

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

4 жыл бұрын

What’s not right?

Shitll crack

@friendlyneighborhoodtileguy

2 жыл бұрын

Why do you think that it’s going to crack?