This is incredible! Struggling to get everything working on my 8bit board and wanted the silent drivers so bad! Just ordered the v4.2.7 and I can’t wait to follow your tutorial and get it up and running! Thank you so very much for this video!! God bless and warm regards from sunny South Africa 🇿🇦

This really helped me with wiring mine together, but with klipper and a different touchscreen. Got me up and running, so thank you for that!

Great video tutorial. Is there any update to the firmware plz ? Maybe fixing the gcode button ?

I fighting with the 500 mw laser module upgrade all gcode and slicer issues. but great video maybe firmware upgrade might be in order ?

for the non-silent board, it's enough to replace the IC on the mainboard, cost 3-5$ (but needs hot air gun). I replaced all the fans on the board including the one on the powersupply the printer is absolutely silent now, a friend took the printer home and is printing day and night again. I switched to CNC because I need a higher accuracy for my projects at the moment.

You are doing some awesome stuff here man! I wanted to upgrade the firmware for my E5+ and really wanted to make it quieter cause the way it comes, its pretty noisy. The v4.2.7 board is way cheaper that the v2.2 silent boards for some reason and I figured I there has to be a way to use that one instead. Because of this video, I'm def gonna pick up a v4.2.7 board and a z motor splitter for the double z motor situation. I'm also gonna use your hot end strain relief cause its for sure the best one I've seen so far. Running Marlin 2 is gonna be sick too. Thanks!

@amp9438

11 ай бұрын

Thanks. For me the V2.2 silent board was like x3 price of the V4.2.7 plus it's still only 8-bit. You can usually get good deals on the V4.2.7. Although cheaper I'd completely avoid the V4.2.2. boards as they have a random choice of stepper drivers (silent & non-silent). Also for z splitters you can buy them on eBay & Amazon etc quite cheaply.

@ilVendicator

10 ай бұрын

@@amp9438Update for ya, I got it all swapped out and it’s running great using your files. I did find out that the cheap z motor splitter needed a couple wires switched around because Z was moving in the opposite direction. I have the updated version of the E5+ that came with rge 500 MW PSU and all of the wiring changes were the same for my setup that you did. Was able to do it all with all the original connectors and a small amount of soldering but I’m sure someone could get away doing all this with a few butt splices. Anyways, the only issue I have come across is that when I try to disable auto bed leveling, it says it stored the setting but still runs the auto leveling each time I run a print. I previously just manually leveled the bed and let it rip because it takes forever to actually probe the whole bed every print. Idk if I’m missing something to make it just run a print without leveling each time. Thanks again for doing all the hard work for this upgrade and then putting all the stuff out there. Saved me a lot of hassle and money lol. I know for sure I would have fried a board or two trying to get it hooked up correctly.

@amp9438

10 ай бұрын

You could try checking your start GCODE in your slicer to see if it's always running a G29 as this will attempt to test bed each time. My firmware has #define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 which means it should load the last levelling settings each time without have to do it again.

@ilVendicator

10 ай бұрын

@@amp9438 You were right on the money, prusaslicer had a G29 in the start gcode. Removed it and it’s all good. I was unaware of the gcode that pulls the old level data, pretty cool. Thanks again! For a side note, with the new setup being so quiet, I couldn’t tell when the printer finished a print even sitting 10ft from it. I noticed there was a speaker connection on the touch screen board when I was working on it and found a JST connector speaker on Amazon that plugged right in and it appears marlin automatically sets up beeps. Now when prints are done, it does a quick little chime 👍

@amp9438

9 ай бұрын

Hi that's great to know about the speaker mod. Thanks for sharing

Hi I did this upgrade and I also used your firmware which worked out very well. I also kept the OEM screen however I would like to make some small suggestions the firmware does not have auto refresh sd card enabled that would be nice also if you pause a print with the screen the print will not resume with your firmware other than those 2 small things I have not had any other issues .

@amp9438

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. Will see if I can get round to updating it and publish a new version.

I also have a ender 5+, glad i found this. I also had the cr touch issue with the wires being crossed. But I have 2 additional fans it looks like? Black and red wires one running to the case fan and the other is a fan by the extruder. But i still have the yellow/blue wire fan. Any chance you can shed some light on how to deal with this? Can i make a 2 to 1 connection for a fan port? Edit: i missed you plugged it into the board power bar thing But which fan is stripped and put into the board by the power connections? Does it make sense to put the case fan into the power block and the extra one connected to the print head into the board? Editx2: you do mention its the fan for the hot end. So you dont want that variable? There is an extra spot on the board that can either be the case fan or that fan.

You are the best~!! I just build up same as your printer here !! It work omg!! I have question how to calibrate E step on current printer?

@amp9438

9 ай бұрын

I think for the E5+ you have to do it via GCODE using something like Pronterface. Quick Google shows some suggestions.

Please help me! Your *.bin is working fine, but I changed the carriage and the hotend moved 20mm to the left. So it became necessary to make my own *.bin To start with, I downloaded Marlin 2.1.2.1 and your configuration files from Thingeverse (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) I changed the name of the processor to STM32F103RE_creality and tried to compile the *.bin but I get errors in the terminal. What am I doing wrong? Help me please.

Does this version have power loss recovery? Trying to get it setup on my ender….Tested it by unplugging power during a few test prints with my current firmware but I never get a prompt to resume printing once I restore the power

@amp9438

10 ай бұрын

I have it disabled in my version as it generally causes issues with blobs on each layer due to the delay in saving to the SD card. You can try enabling it in the firmware in Configuration_adv.h by uncommenting #define POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY. But I haven't tested it myself. Also it might also be possible via command in your start GCODE

Good morning, Thank you for your video, it is superb and motivated me to make this modification too :) So I followed your tutorial by following your video. At first I thought everything was perfect, but I noticed that there were sometimes artifacts on the screen. Sometimes I can't go back to the previous menu with the back arrow, especially on the manual heating menu when I put the bed on heating, however, I can still change the temperatures. The only way to unblock this problem is to restart the printer. Do you have any idea what my problem is? Because I don't see how to do it... After several tests, I noticed that this only appears when the heated bed is heating. I will try to replace the mosfet and/or the power supply.

@amp9438

5 ай бұрын

Hi. Not had any issues like that. Maybe it's a problem with the power supply? I know early ones had some issues (non Meanwell PSUs).

@philippelarcher7417

5 ай бұрын

Hi, I'm back here to answer. actually my problem was an additional regulator problem to convert the 24v from my printer to 12v for two fans (DC-DC LM2596s). When I removed it, everything returned to normal. thank you a lot for your tutorial, that works perfect 👍

Hello can you help me i got 4.2.7 board but i got the new lcd 24 bit touch screen i got problem with software

I have a massive issue with the 10 pin cable. Are you not able to just use the existing cable? I understand the clip on it is backwards but could you not cut a small square in the plastic and make it connect the original way round?

@Duros1394

13 күн бұрын

Ok I seemed to have done this I filed down the plastic nub on the 10 pin header and just inserted it backwards. Saved the crimping

I have two E5P’s with silent boards and BL Touch; “Flotsam” and “Jetsam”. Jetsam used to be my stable one, but somewhere, the Z offset got set to 10mm adjustments and I have tried everything to flash, reinstall, check wires, etc to fix it. As soon as I select, “0.1mm” in settings, then back out of the settings menu, it defaults back to 10mm. This means during printing, I can ONLY adjust it in 10mm height increments. Very difficult to adapt to. Even with auto-bed leveling, this can only be done to a minimal degree of satisfaction. Got any ideas???

@amp9438

4 ай бұрын

You usually have to save the settings for the printer to remember the settings via a M500 command which saves the settings to EEPROM. You could try it yourself using a terminal with something like Pronterface to see if works. If that doesn't work you can save it to SDCARD as well but think that would be a firmware change. Are the printers using same/latest firmware? It's possible it's not enabled in the version you have.

I got my Ender 5 plus and started printing, my first benchy I noticed I'm getting these annoying blobs/ zits and can't do anything to fix them, l've used brand new filament, used a good quality San disk micro sd and played around with settings, is my printer defective and should I return it?

@amp9438

11 ай бұрын

It could be caused by power loss recovery. You could try disabling it by adding start GCODE M413 S0 in your slicer. Otherwise might be retraction settings

@osgoodblack6464

8 ай бұрын

Sure you don't have to much moisture in the filament?

@hayk9069

8 ай бұрын

@@osgoodblack6464 yup got a filament dryer and still the same

Hang on wheres the steps on how you put these files into the printer?

How does it work with the stock touch screen

@amp9438

11 ай бұрын

The touch screen runs it's own firmware and sends GCODE commands to the mainboard which is configured to communicate with the screen similar to how it works with the USB port. So for the wiring you only need 5v to power the touch screen along with ground and RX & TX lines for the serial communications.

@anthonyaviles8665

11 ай бұрын

@@amp9438 so basically its a plug and play and connect because i was going to use a regular screen like the one on a ender3 woth the knob on it instead of a push button on it

@anthonyaviles8665

11 ай бұрын

I am using a th3d screen upgrade so i dont have to do the screen upgrade

@amp9438

11 ай бұрын

In that setup the main board is actually driving the LCD but I configured my version of Marlin to rely on the LCD having a serial connection and sending commands. But either will work depending on how you configure the firmware. There are links to my config in the description.