You are completely right about the number of weft threads per inch being reduced, but it gets even worse. The yarn they used for the weft went down in quality of cotton fibres used; that is shorter and thicker fibres. They also reduced the twist in the weft yarn to make it bulkier and help disguise the number of weft threads. All this made the weft yarn very weak and that is why it wears out so quickly these days. You used to be able to buy denim that had been 'Sanforized', a mechanical process that pre-shrunk the denim before it was made into garments and lowered the shrinkage down to 1-2%. I actually worked at a factory that had one of the last Sanforizing machines in existance. Great show and accurate as always ; you're a gentleman and a philosopher!

This is slowly becoming my favorite KZread channel. Nuanced watch content along with just enough offsetting culture and lifestyle content.Not just a guy in a t shirt and backwards wearing baseball cap buying all the Rolex sports models.

Eye opening video for a beginner like me, style break 👏

You are a true Renaissance man; culture, history, music, artist and you sew. I’m so very glad to have found your channel.

Tim! Great job and awesome Denim history...I know many people believe denim was discovered in North America but what an eye opener. I love history and you hit the Mark this morning for me. Keep up the goodness dear sir!

Cool jacket, and that you casually made your own 😅 amaze

Loved this video. Would love to see more like it and if it isnt a huge ask can you maybe post the final drawings? I'd like to see if my tailor can copy them. Btw I have a friend in the textile business here in Pakistan who occasionally does contracts for brands like Zara and H&M. The cost cutting is crazy with every last rupee(around 0.5 euro cents) per unit being negotiated over. (disclaimer he follows labour regulations as much as possible and has occasionally lost contracts to manfucaturers in south east asia)

This prompted me to dig out my Lands End 100% cotton field jacket. I bought it 9 years ago for a trip to Egypt, and it served me well for that trip and another. I haven’t worn it for a couple of years, but it’s perfect for an overcast, slightly breezy day like today - so I’m wearing it!

@idid1866

4 жыл бұрын

That's the same place I ordered mine, some years back!

Tim, interesting about the lower quality of today's denim. American cowboys used to favour blue jeans, like Levis 501's and Lee Riders in the 40's, 50's and 60's because the denim was so tough barbed-wire would not penetrate the fabric when they were putting up fences. I'm old enough that I remember as a child how tough denim was. Better than cotton and linen is high quality Italian cotton, silk and linen, amazing! Also, I think you need some desert boots to go with your safari jackets.

Thanks Tim, enjoyed that 👍😊

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

@michaelbedford8017

4 жыл бұрын

@@CasebackWatches There is a way you might avoid collossal dry-cleaning bills. Shrinkage in nearly all textiles is caused by fibre-migration: When washing, the cloth gets wet and the fibres move around and then get locked in a smaller configuration. I would suggest washing such a jacket on the wool programme/short spin cycle. When it comes out, put it on and stretch around a bit. Then put it on a coathanger and leave it to dry in the garden or just hanging in your room (absolutely do not but it in a tumble dryer, and preferably not a hot air closet) I live in Sweden and I guess you have a similar laundry set-up.

Strangely not only do I enjoy watches, I have a great interest in clothing styles and fabrics. So, your channel just got that much more enjoyable. Waiting eagerly for pronouncements on whisky. Just as an aside, as I grew up, jeans were often referred to having been made from serge denim (i.e. a heavy cotton fabric in the style from Nimes). This full reference appears to have gone by the wayside and denim is now used alone.

Always an absolute pleasure to hear you share you knowledge and experiences, be it about watches or clothing. I think you will find that many watch enthusiasts are, coincidentally, also style enthusiasts. I am sure I speak for many of us by saying that we would be very, very happy indeed to see more of this type of video, any fashion tips from such a well dressed gentleman is always welcome. And man, I just have to say, this is a criminally underrated channel.

Aloha Tim !!! Close, holy cow, most boring topic, and yet, I watch this video three times, how you do it ? I LOVE’IT, thank you for entertainment, keep doing what you doing.🏄‍♂️🏄‍♂️🏄‍♂️ 🤙🤙🤙 P.S. I want to dress like Indiana Jones because of you.🤣🤣🤣

Its more like 40 or more years ago for good jeans, 1980’s at least, love the jacket, I miss my old Safari Jacket I bought at the original Banana Republic back in the 80’s when they actually sold that sort of stuff and had old jeeps and jungle and desert motif throughout their stores

@walterlee4796

4 жыл бұрын

Btw I believe you can still buy one from J Peterman

Great stuff!

Try the Tilley Endurable hats, they are incredible!

Even though the surplus M65 army jacket is worn by a fringe crowd in Europe, I believe it may be worth mentioning. I had one when I was much younger, and it was by far the most comfortable with tons of pockets and extremely sturdy

Superb. Thanks very much for this one.

You look so relaxed on this channel. Great information. Thank you.

Tim a polymath, good on you, loving the content mix 👍

I picked up some old Swiss denim trousers from Ebay for about £10 or so. Really good quality much better then any jeans I've had before. They are quite soft but thick and hold together really well. Loose fitting which is good for any physical job so you can squat in them without ripping them. I think they where for engineers in the millitary.

Warp and weft. I learn something every time I watch one of your videos! So interesting! Thanks Tim

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Also there is a variation in the quality of cotton. Egyptian cotton is the best. I bought an Egyptian cotton towelling dressing gown on a trip to Cairo just after the Revolution. So if you can get your jacket made, try and see if they can supply Egyptian cotton.

Yay! Thank you, very very interesting video with a ton of great stories behind it, btw much contrary to my expectations - now I hope you continue doing videos on garment styles and fabric like this. And De Nîmes, what a linguistical treat! Bravo! 🙂

I hope you do an episode about Perfecto jackets.

Love the detail and due diligence you do on your work. Can’t wait to see the finished product! 👍🏻😵💨

Perfect first episode. I want to see more!

Excellent video and glad to see you are expanding your catalog of topics. Thank you for your continued excellence and content!

Truly a polymath, most impressive 👍🏻 Cheers Tim

I think the Carhartt Jacket is the one Matthew McConaughey in wearing in Interstellar. Also Dickies Trousers are still the way to go if you are looking for good quality fabric for a great affordable price. Expecially the Shorts are amazing for summer.

What a wonderful video! Watches are a part of overall style, and it's really cool how you pursue yours!

Style break, good name for these videos Tim. Keep up the good work

Tim that really is a beautiful jacket you have reconstructed.

Tim, great topic. My favorite style are the jackets from the North Africa campaign that you mentioned. Check out the old 60's TV show Rat Patrol for a great selection of WWII desert uniforms on both sides. Very cool that you are making your own jackets.

yo i was literally thinking about picking one of these up yesterday. GREAT timing!

I'd love to get my hands on a proper safari jacket. I like the new series Tim, keep it up!

Tim, Thank You for this video. Very interesting. One thought with regards to cotton garments and shrinkage. Another option is to wash and dry ( in a machine once ) and for each follow up washing, wash in cold water and hang dry. Cold water washing will not add to shrinkage. The hot drier will. So hang dry is the alternative to eliminate the shrinkage issue.

May I suggest Tim, from my training in the "rag trade" many years ago that the difference in quality between cheap cotton fabrics and expensive is the length of the fibres, long staple cotton is more expensive than short staple and this effects the durability of the fabric.

Good vid I like the name too. Sorry Tim I did not get back to you with some name suggestions for your clothing series.

Congratulations, my dear Sir. Your already fine channel has just gotten even better. Might I suggest christening your tailoring and sartorial segments "Caseback Couture"... or perhaps even "Caseback Culture" for a more varied field of topics. You've created an outstanding channel with a style unique to you. Gut gemacht!

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot! I'm really glad that so many people like this new format. Will be a pleasure to continue.

Great video Tim ! Very informative and entertaining an effortless segue into "classic " style ! Congradulations !👌❤

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Glad you like it, thanks!

pls more thats it...

Carhartt jeans and work bracers “suspenders” are tip top. Got mine on Amazon and shipped to England and ended up cheaper than the local Marks and Spencer including shipping. Also much better quality than Marks and Sparks.

Yes, I did know that Denim is an American bastardisation of serge deNimes. Did you know that the original warehouse that Levy used on the San Francisco wharf was number 501. Hence the name of the jeans.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Didn‘t know that, interesting!

What-you don't like "Caseback Couture" for your sartorial segment? I think it's perfect branding for your creations, too. Does anybody else here like that name?

"How hard can it be?" .... ... .. . . . . . I like the hubris. There is something recognizable about it.

Recently discovered your channel. Really enjoying. I especially like when you weave history into the items. Hoping to see an episode on men's glasses. I like the ones you wear. Where can one find them?

I have just done my laundry, I have 2 pairs of shorts (maybe chino I'm still learning) one is a style brand one (j crew) the other is more high end (banana republic purchased at a consignment store) the j crew is always wrinkled especially In the waistband, the other is not. I was just thinking to myself as I was folding them, why is that? I took a look and the unwrinkled ones are 100% cotton the others have 2% elastane. Fun fact, high quality pants and shorts will use silk liners (even for fake pockets) to keep from tugging your hair and riding up your underwear (tip from a very old alpha m video). Also with high humidity silk is conductive, it can interact with your phone. Silk used to make the cores for spark plug wires way back when battery cases were wood (and could discharge into concrete) and crankshaft bearings were leather. Have a great week all.

Afternoon! You're right about Jeans, 50 years ago a new pair of Levi's would stand up on their own. Have you looked at the Zambezi jacket by Orvis? Out of production now I think, difficult to buy used as the sizing vary so much, like Carhartt they do come up large..

I don't want to wear the jeans of my youth anymore. They were getting comfortable only after one year of constant wearing (and suffering). Of course then the fabric was thin and vulnerable to rip. Today I just save this first year.

Interesting series and video! I would love to see some videos on styling your clothes around watches! - Han

Nice job, sir! I never thought I would watch a video about clothes with such an interest. (I never thought I would see a video about clothes at all!) Anyway, given that you have been wearing a NATO, these days, would you consider the idea of making a review of NATO straps in a nearby future?

Jeans are half the thickness they use to be...they are using nylon blends, stretchy material!

I stopped wearing denim jeans over the years due to the fact that it doesn't last the same way as poly cotton would and it would also age well over time.

Suit Supply had a very retro themed safari jacket in the last outlet clearance selling very cheap. I wasn’t allowed to buy it ☹️

Honestly I feel like I’m the only guy that never wears any jeans, I literally don’t own a single pair and don’t plan to. I mostly wear khakis, chinos and dress pants in beige, navy blue, charcoal and that’s pretty much it.

And that worker produces many jackets each day, therefore he/she is highly skilled and experienced in order to produce that quantity of product in that period of time.

Hi Tim, Looking at this (finally) by your recommendation in your latest q&a. My mum's a seamstress, but I think she'd disown me if I asked for a bespoke field or safari jacket (nice).Kudos to you, Sir. I hope you won't find it offensive, but the shoulder straps are named, ' epaulettes '.

@CasebackWatches

3 жыл бұрын

No offense, thank you 😉

Looks like something worn by Armand and Mickaela Denis or Hans and Lotte Hass in the 1950's. Good though!

As I expected, this "Style Break" series is very interesting. Please carry on. Note 1: is that the Seagull 1962 "Plan B" on your wrist? Note 2: the word "jeans" also has French origins: it comes from "Gênes", French for "Genoa", because the fabric later used for jeans trousers was a Genoese cotton fabric (hence "jeans") dyed with "bleu de Nîmes" (as you remarked), or a French imitation of that Genoese fabric, depending on the fonts.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

1. Yes, it is. 2. Interesting! Thanks for that.

You can get a true late 19th Century Reproduction Safari Bush Jacket from Historical Emporium.

Question - what is the purpose of those shoulder straps/epaulets/whatever they're called? I've always wondered, never known. Cool video. I like this project.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

Think of a military waist belt, held by a diagonal leather strap over the shoulder. They put it under the epaulet and locked it there with the button. Today some people use it for camera straps etc.

@TechnoLawyer

4 жыл бұрын

@@CasebackWatches ohh. That makes sense. Thank you sir.

I enjoyed watching your video! Nice jacket! But one info is wrong, weft and warp is mixed up. (Warp ist der Kettfaden und weft ist der Schussfaden). And your shoulder straps are made of a twill fabric. Not canvas. Cheers.

I'd like to ask what about the lining is it a big no no if it is made of poly? I bought great Burton field jacket from a thrift shop, it's 100% cotton but the body lining has some polyester and sleeves lining is fully made of it.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

With poly lining I've never had a problem. If you can choose it's mostly better to go with viscose, but that's rare.

Tim, why your colleagues do not produce pleated trousers anymore? It's so difficult to find them in the stores. I cannot get why the flat front trousers have become such trendy. The pleated variants are much more comfortable. And if you ask me, I would say that they are also much more classy. Just look at Leo Dicaprio in the Wolf of Wall Street, with those white pleated trousers. Isn't it pure class?

@CasebackWatches

2 жыл бұрын

You're 100% right. I tailor my own trousers with a pleat and it is a way better look than flat front. But people want to appear slim at any cost I think.

@a000ab

2 жыл бұрын

I had a feeling that you have the same taste in this regard 😊

Really loving this series Tim. Just curious, why is your camera off centre? Your eyes are always slightly off centre, like looking a bit left and above.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

I have a slight strabismus. So if I focus on the camera, one eye is aligned, the other a bit off. Nothing I can do against this, I'm afraid, so we have to live with it! ;-)

@ArnavSenguptaPlus

4 жыл бұрын

@@CasebackWatches Ah, makes sense now. Keep the content coming!

Back in the early '60's,Levi 501 jeans were A)"shrink to fit" B)14ounce denim C)inseams were always selvedge.Now A)"one wash" B)12 ounce denim C)no selvedge inseams,you can have selvedge inseams but at double the price.I'm wearing mine now but they don't feel the same as the '60's version and why this "one wash" rubbish?I will not buy anything such as "stone washed" jeans.Why pay for something that's had the crap beaten out of it and is therefore half worn out by the time you get it?

Great vid, tnx. But please look in the black hole when you're filming. Now it seems you're looking at something that's at the left of me.

@CasebackWatches

4 жыл бұрын

I have a heavily damaged right eye and on some days its worse. If you look closely you may notice that one of my eyes focuses on you and the other one on the tropical bird on your left shoulder. 😉

@FirstDonkie

4 жыл бұрын

@@CasebackWatches Aaaah, so that's where the shit on my shoulder comes from... Keep up the good work!

Deuteronomy 22:11 "Thou shalt not wear a garment of diverse sorts, as of woollen and linen together." Leviticus 19:19 "Neither shall a garment mingled of linen and woollen come upon thee." I don't think these laws are enforced much these days, so you'll be OK. ;)

Bitte schaue in die Kamera wenn möglich.

Even 500e Dior jeans ended up like a swiss cheese in 1 year. Better buy raw japanese denim jeans

@Walem_B

4 жыл бұрын

@O BOZ brah! I only wear bally footwear for formal shoes, price is up there with gucci and prada but quality is outstanding. Not really familiar with their silk cashemere offering but I have no doubt that its great quality. Regarding denim you should try naked and famous jeans. Its like 100-200$ jeans but its raw japanese denim, fits perfectly. Comparable to designer brands and still affordable. Theres pairs I own since 10y+ and they re still fitting perfectly and very thick. Plus raw denim takes life with time, wear and tear so each piece becomes unique.

Jesus H Christ Tim . Are you homeless now ? Wife kick you out ? I hope you are not doing drugs ? What happened to the dapper man we all knew ? Lol.