Constructing a Classical Ballet Tutu (Part 6: Assembling the Bodice) - The University of Akron

Costume Designer Irene Mack-Shafer, of The University of Akron Dance Company, demonstrates the construction of a classical ballet tutu. (Part 6 of 7)

Пікірлер: 23

  • @DannyJane.
    @DannyJane.5 жыл бұрын

    As an historical costumer I recognize a lot of these techniques. I am surprised that they don't use a serger to do their flatlining since it's really fast and prevents delicate fabrics like organza from fraying. In most cases something that takes as much of a beating as a tutu I'd think would be made much stronger. My guess is that she wishes to reduce bulk as much as she can. Likewise, I never use rigelene for an historical reproduction. Now I've seen woven rigelene before, but in sewing stores I usually find it in a wire-like shape surrounded by a casing or formed into it. For her purposes, this form is much better since she's making so many tutus. It's probably cheaper and faster, but for any other project it doesn't give enough support. For historical garments I prefer spring steel, spiral steel, or synthetic baleen. Baleen would work nicely since it comes in many thicknesses, but it's expensive and you have to make a casing. Casings can be made out of the seam allowance, but she needs to measure time spent on each garment and efficiency still points her back to rigelene. It shortens the life of the garment though, since it will eventually fray and poke through fabric. If I were there I'd mention some costumers "flame" the ends of rigelene with a match or lighter to melt the edges and forestall fraying.

  • @nevroth
    @nevroth8 жыл бұрын

    Wow!! I need one of those hams!! Way better than the edge of my bed LMAO. The plexi-curve is also amazing. So easy to use although I wonder at it's rigidity. Meh doesn't need to be steel bone or anything anyways lol

  • @DannyJane.

    @DannyJane.

    5 жыл бұрын

    I have several for different purposes. I have two, one larger than the other, for pressing curves and one specifically for pressing sleeves. Since sleeves are not common in tutus, she may not use them.

  • @hollygemma8236
    @hollygemma82365 жыл бұрын

    Are there different ways to attach bodice to tutu? I have seen pictures where the bodice is separate and connected with buttons and this way where it is sewn on. Which is correct?

  • @milyruiz6331
    @milyruiz63312 жыл бұрын

    me gusta

  • @lgballet_laura_gregory
    @lgballet_laura_gregory8 жыл бұрын

    hello. what material is used for the lining of the bodice?

  • @frankflank916

    @frankflank916

    8 жыл бұрын

    muslin

  • @dougcross99
    @dougcross996 жыл бұрын

    How do you put together the lining with bodice? The lining will still have to be flexible, but the bodice is often made of non-flexible material. Once I sew together the lining with the bodice, doesn't the lining loose all its flexibility due to the stiffness of the bodice? How does the piping come in to play?

  • @BrokenMonocle

    @BrokenMonocle

    5 жыл бұрын

    This is an old comment, but I'm just now watching these videos. I've never done dancewear, but I've done bridal which has a lot of overlap. The bodice fashion fabric and lining are cut on the bias, so it retains some flexibility when lined. The bodice remains fairly stiff to keep it from twisting or wrinkling as you move, and the boning helps keep it from bunching at the waist. The idea is that you move inside the bodice instead of the bodice moving with you, so it's closely fitted, but not like spandex fitted. Piping is just a nice finish for the neckline.

  • @mtilsonfl
    @mtilsonfl7 жыл бұрын

    Do you ever snip curved seams to allow for the curves of the body? The video doesn't seem to show this being done.

  • @uakron

    @uakron

    7 жыл бұрын

    I'm just a videographer, but I happen to know the costume designer. Here is her reply: Most generally, the center front bodice panel is snipped about every ¾ inch. If the curve in the adjoining side front is not too severe, I only clip half the depth of the seam allowance. When the curve is very curvy, I do staystitch the center front panel and clip to 1/8 inch from the seam line, nearly the depth of the seam allowance. Additionally, the side seams and side back seams may need to be clipped especially if the seam allowance is more than 5/8 inch. I do try to snip those seams less than half the seam allowance depth to allow for future size adjustments. Otherwise, there is no point to allow that much seam allowance.

  • @suzannedoherty1185
    @suzannedoherty11858 жыл бұрын

    how do you create a basque???? Iam trying but it is all wrong???!!!!!!!!

  • @uakron

    @uakron

    8 жыл бұрын

    I am just a video producer, but I happen to know the costume designer, and she gave a very detailed answer. I hope it helps: The simplest way to create a basque that fits the dancer is to start with a rectangle of paper with these dimensions - length = circumference of dancer at the desired line of the tutu skirt + 1 inch X width = distance from waist to the desired line of the tutu skirt plus 1.25”. Please look at the example picture included. Once you have your rectangle, place it around the dancer’s body, taping the ends together. It should sit snugly at the lower edge of the paper, placed 5/8” below the desired line of the tutu skirt. The upper edge will stand out around the body at the waist level. Now, begin shaping the paper to the dancer by creating a series of folds in the paper. There will typically be deeper folds across the back and shallower folds across the front. Please reference the included drawing. You will be ready to cut this pattern out of cloth once the paper is lying flat against the body. Tape down all the folds. Untape the center back where the ends of the rectangle are being held together. You will now have a shaped rectangle that looks like a smiling rectangle. Use this as a pattern to cut a piece of SAMPLE cloth in that shape. Place the center front (Find the center front by folding the paper in half, short end to short end. Mark the fold line with a pencil.) on the straight grain of the fabric. Now repeat the previous steps. There should only be small adjustments to get the fabric to lay flat against the body. Pin any adjustments. Then, use a string to tie around the body at the waist height and another string to tie around the body at the desired tutu skirt line. Stand back and make sure the strings are sitting level as the dancer turns. Adjust the string to make it sit level around the body if needed. Then, once level, use a marker to trace the string lines. Remove the fabric from the dancer. Use this as your final pattern to cut the basque out of lining and fashion fabric. Be sure to use the markered string lines as your guide, measuring 5/8” to the outside of each as your seam allowance. I also like to allow 2” on each end of the basque for hook and eye tape and adjustments later on. Now you’re ready to sew the basque. I prefer to stitch the upper edges, right sides together, in a 5/8” seam, then clip and turn. Press a crisp edge, not allowing the seam to fold in on itself. Then, topstitch 5/8” down from this edge, creating a casing. Feed ½” elastic through this casing with elastic measuring the same as the dancer’s waist. Secure the ends. Serge the short edges and the lower edge together. Next, use covered piping (commercial or piping that you cover out of matching basque fabric) and apply it at the lower stitch line with the piping seam allowance lying in the basque seam allowance. Now, stitch the tutu skirt onto the basque matching the center front and center backs.

  • @suzannedoherty1185
    @suzannedoherty11856 жыл бұрын

    what kind off foot was she using for the piping?

  • @dougcross99

    @dougcross99

    6 жыл бұрын

    A zipper foot.

  • @aabi__lajevardi
    @aabi__lajevardi7 жыл бұрын

    how do i can s ponche bob

  • @mariahbarbosadaconceicao7619
    @mariahbarbosadaconceicao76192 жыл бұрын

    Esse curso é pago?

  • @charmeusedeparis962
    @charmeusedeparis9623 жыл бұрын

    this top head seamstressis very skillful :)

  • @acornofsherwood
    @acornofsherwood8 жыл бұрын

    What is that type of boning called?

  • @uakron

    @uakron

    8 жыл бұрын

    +Michelle Mclaughlin I'm just a video producer, but I happen to know the costume designer, and here's her answer: For the bodice we use Flexicurve Polyester Boning. In the tutu skirt we use plastic coated steel hooping, or hoop bone steel.

  • @alejandrapina1177
    @alejandrapina11778 жыл бұрын

    muy bueno pero no habló inglés

  • @aabi__lajevardi
    @aabi__lajevardi7 жыл бұрын

    sponge bob

  • @alicecuesta2526
    @alicecuesta25263 жыл бұрын

    This bodice is for a little girl. For adult more panels