Thanks for making this. You filled in some of the holes that the Atlantic British guys didn't mention. Like the fuel rail difficulty and the suggestion to remove all the plastic off the sides.

awesome video Evan, the dealer did my supercharged 5.0 under warranty, and if i remember they had over 40 hours into it including supercharger nose cone thats a BIG job, and you made it look like it isnt.

The only thing the video is missing is the startup before the job and after the job. That would have been satisfying to hear the difference!

@kelvinward801

5 ай бұрын

YESSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!! Start her up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of the best JLR tensioner repairs to date! A lot of very good tricks/tips along the way. Neighbour and I are 20 man-hours into this on a 2011 full size Rangie. You’re correct; proper tools are KEY. The full size Rangie layout is a tad different and the drivers side access to the aft most valve cover bolts and injectors is a challenge! After the cams are locked, it’s downhill and not too bad. Recommend: 1. Installing new injectors, especially the aft most due to the harder angles when removing (we cracked 4) 2. REPLACE the front AND rear coolant crossover pipes while there. These are HIGH FAILURE items made from crappy 2 part plastic. I’ve done 2 of these and the front crossover literally cracked/disintegrated when removing (Poor engineering/costing!) Be sure to lube the O rings when re-installing...they can easily get buckled when going back into the block. These parts are a high percentage coolant leak issue on the 5.0’s. 3. Have an assistant if you are not a professional mech. An extract set of hands was critical when we removed the valve cover and injectors on the drivers side (Full size Rangie)

@kevinmartin4543

3 жыл бұрын

Hey that’s Funny Todd! I’m actually doing the same thing with one of my neighbors! Great Video. Far more informative than the AB 1hour video-although the AB vid is still helpful. Agree with everything Todd says.

@elNenio

2 жыл бұрын

You forgot to mentioned the VVTs they're the reason the timing goes bad...

You're one talented guy. Thanks for these videos. It's a great public service. Keep it up!

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching! Glad the videos are helpful for others!

Brother this is the cleanest LR engine I've ever seen. This is a super great video as well.

@evandoeseverything174

6 ай бұрын

Thank you! I hope the video is helpful for you!

Man you made this look so easy.. excellent work

Bro you the man, no way I could attempt that, respect

Excellent video, great job 👍

Great video and yes I just bought a 2011 5.0 litre V8 and yes I researched and related that this was an issue so I guess when the time comes your video will be my friend well done on what looks like a big job but achievable with patience! Thanks

@ReapDaCreap

2 жыл бұрын

How has it held up? I want to buy one with 107k miles

@jtr499

Жыл бұрын

@@ReapDaCreap mine has 180k miles, still runs great but very prominent rattle at idle. I am currently getting prices on this repair, its not looking too promising as no one but Range Rover wants to work on a range rover in my area.

I have a spark plug puller that obviously like the rest of good ones have the magnet in top and nice rubber gasket to hold injector and protect from cracks. I replaced my injectors as so as I bought both my L322 and L405 with new NGK IRIDIUMs of course and will say full size so much easier to work on, the sport is compact.

Nice video thanks for putting it up

I GOT A FEELING THT U R CERTIFIED MECHANIC . I WISH I CAN WORK ON MY RANGE RV SVR . GOOD 👍 !!

Excellent job

Nice work man, this will really help me a lot, I’m going to be doing this in the next few days.

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Glad it was helpful!

@mw3designs340

3 жыл бұрын

How did your install go? I am starting this next week.

@jeann8247

2 жыл бұрын

@@mw3designs340 Hello Mw3 Design.. I plan to do the work on my LR4. How did your install go? I saw your post submitted about 5 months ago. Any challenges?

Very good job well done

Getting the fuel rail off is loads of fun

"Good job Ford I would say". Thanks for the video.

Nice video. I would add that one should absolutely put a piece of cardboard or thin plywood in front of the radiator to protect during the job. All it takes is one ding to ruin it. It is more of a pain to replace than the timing chain.

Awesome video. Not it's time for mine but I'm going for it. I've done the 300zx twin cam Nissan and many many others. But I did all those with no locks ever. The locks are a must for this I see. @ 69k I'm hoping to get by a while

@tjwrongwaymead8374

3 жыл бұрын

I mean it's not quite time yet. You can see the chain inside the filler cap. If my right side tensioner is bad then should I feel movement in the chain at the top left side. Cuz it's rock solid

Evan, I can't thank you enough for this video. I am still waiting on a few parts to come in before I do this job. I might be asking you a few questions during my job. My LR4 sprung an oil leak, and I thought it was the Vacuum Pump Gasket. Changed that gasket but still have a leak coming from higher up.

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Always glad to help. It takes a while but with the right tools and some patience I'm sure you can get it done! The leak may well be coming from the lower timing cover (around the outside edge of it) or from the crank seal in the lower timing cover. You'll be able to inspect it once you've got it off during the timing chain/tensioner job. I didn't replace mine when I did the job, but perhaps you may want to just to eliminate that as a potential leak point.

@mw3designs340

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 I just noticed in the shop manual that there are two different timing chain procedures, one for INA and one for Tsubaki? How does one know what chain they have before they dive in?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@mw3designs340 Jaguar changed the pitch on the cam sprocket teeth early on (from 6.35mm to 8.0mm) when they brought the 3.0 and 5.0 engines to market. Unless you have a very early 3.0 or 5.0 Jaguar you will have the 8.0mm pitch. Every Land Rover with the 5.0 V8 has the INA 8.0mm pitch timing chain setup as it is more robust. Both timing chain setups are interchangeable, and if you go to buy parts today for a vehicle that had the Tsubaki 6.35 parts (cam sprockets, crank sprocket and chains) you'd be wise to upgrade to the beefier setup.

@reaxions

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 For clarification, per your comment, what part did you not replace when you did yours and why did you not replace it? Thanks!

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

@@reaxions I did not replace the cam sprockets/variators. They are about $400 each (would require 4 total) and mine seemed to be in good working condition. Also, if they fail they just become a bit more noisy, but no risk of catastrophic engine failure due to being out of time.

Thanks, very professional very clear!!!! I have 2011 Range Rover supercharger, how we do this in this week!!! Can you give me the link to buy everything tha i will need to do the job, Thanks..

thanks for filming this. I'm trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself...

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

Glad it could be of some help! Let me know if you have any specific questions if you decide to take on the job.

@Jarek13

4 жыл бұрын

don't do it

@SM-yi9lv

4 жыл бұрын

Jarek Maras Would you have a shop do it instead?

@Jarek13

4 жыл бұрын

@@SM-yi9lv (crying) No not that either.

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jarek13 Unfortunately I think a lot of independent shops will take on the job without having sufficient experience with the 5.0 motor or without knowing some of the subtle (but critical) things to do to ensure the timing is spot on when it all goes back together. All the specialty tools you need are expensive, no doubt, but very important to do the job right. I spent about $600 on all the tools, and another $1800 in parts. I was quoted $9500 for the job at my local Land Rover dealership...no thanks!

Nice Job, I hope your back is still in place after finishing this job

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

Haha thanks! Stuff like this keeps you limber that's for sure!

Nice video. Very informative. I wish you can do my 2012 LR4 though ;-))

Hi Evan, how can I get this tool, I have used 2010 RR sport SC V8 5.0 2010 and my mechanic can’t pull the injector because he doesn’t have this tool

I have a 2010 xjl supersport coming up to 80k miles soon and was going to get quotes for this very same job.. excluding parts what would be in your professional opinion be an honest hours in labour time for this job.. ps you made it look so easy doing it.. great work..

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the compliment! Glad you enjoyed the video. If you can find a good independent shop that has done the job a few times, they should be able to get it done in 10-12 hours.

@stewarthumphreys8960

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your reply.. I'll start by getting some quotes.. cheers..

Great video! I appreciate you taking the time to share and help others. I also was quoted $10k from the dealership and decided to undertake this myself. I'm part way through performing this repair and overall everything is going really well.One thing I'm struggling with is the workshop manual says it is important to install a new friction washer before reinstalling the crankshaft pulley (pg. 2407 of the pdf). Looking around for parts I don't see a crankshaft friction washer. Do you know if the workshop manual is referring to the crankshaft front seal? Thanks again for any help.

@Andrew-jv3zs

4 жыл бұрын

Also, forgot to ask if you have any tips on how you cleaned out your injector ports. Mine were really dirty as well. Did you inspect them with an endoscope or something to confirm no debris fell down into the engine.

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

@@Andrew-jv3zs Glad the video is helpful for you! The friction washers are located on either side of the crank gear sprocket. They're very thin so it may not be obvious that they're there. Part number is LR010696. To clean the injector holes I used a brass tube brush set from Harbor Freight and a little denatured alcohol, a little brake cleaner. Don't scrub too hard, as you don't want to scuff the bore. With some microfiber towels and a vinyl tube I attached to my shop vac I got all the junk out. No scope into the combustion chamber. Best of luck with your repair!

Whre did you get the tool kit from?

Always always do the proper or recommended removal. I have do work on these AJ133 motors and didn’t remove stuff like you did lmao and let me say I struggled and fought for hours like a stubborn dick hahahah. Learned that lesson.

If you are not replacing the variators and remove the cam instead to let the chain out, do you need to re"wind" or preload the variators to the 20 ft. lbs.? Can you just reassemble making sure the marks match before pulling the pins?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, you should always preload the variators when reinstalling the chain. The purpose of applying the torque to the variator and then tightening the screws is to put tension on the chain between the variators in addition to the tension on the chain provided by the actual chain tensioners/guides below.

Another question Evan. Which way did you rotate the engine to double check the timing? Easiest way for me is to go ccw since the crank bolt is reverse, but I'm afraid the chain will skip a tooth since the slack will be on the non-tensioned side. If you went cw, how did you spin it?? Thank you.

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Do not turn the engine CCW, you're correct that the chain won't be tensioned and can slip off, and the fuel pump chain can/will do the same thing and you do not want that! You'll have to get the crank bolt tight enough that you can spin the engine CW without the bolt coming loose.

And for testing.. you should have run the engine with the starte since you need to prime everything with oil then check the timing again..

Awesome work just question I want to do valve cover gasket do you need to remove injectors or you can take out valve covers without disturbing them.

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

You need to remove the injectors in order to take off the valve covers.

Man I need a video on how to take off the S/C :( This was great though!)

@andyorton5539

3 жыл бұрын

I have the specs to do this if you still need it.

@olaomishore

3 жыл бұрын

How much do you think is a decent price to pay for this job? I have a 2012 hse and it’s overheating and I also need to fix the head gasket. Total parts, roughly $1,100 . How much guesstimate for labor?

@gatdammit

3 жыл бұрын

@@olaomishore It's quite a job... probably going to be 6k at the low end and north of 10k at the highest... assuming they find something else and things you may just want to take care of since all the covers are off. The parts aren't that bad, but it is the labor that you're paying for.

Great video. How was the sound before & after the new timing chain installed? Can you do my??? Thank you you

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Honestly it sounded like a diesel before, and now all you can hear is the mechanical fuel pumps. Unfortunately I just wrench on my own vehicles in my spare time, but a good independent mechanic will be a lot cheaper than the dealer.

Your video is a big help! Hey do you know, once the new chain is on if you turn the engine several times will the chain marks line back up everywhere correctly or is it the type engine where they never line back up?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

The timing marks will not line up again if you just rotate the crank one or two revolutions. However, the timing tools (cam locks and flywheel lock pin) will fit in place when the engine is back at TDC. The marks on the chain are really just there as an installation reference that things are in correct time when as goes back together.

Thanks for the video! Do you happen to have links for the items you purchased for the job? Or descriptions of what to search for? Thanks!

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

The majority of the items are part of this kit: www.roverparts.com/engine/timing-chains-belts/TCK5030/ Atlantic British (roverparts.com) carries the specialty tools needed as well. You can find the crank bolt and crank friction washer part numbers elsewhere here in the comments section, those parts will have to be purchased from a dealership or elsewhere online.

Hi Evan! I have a 2013 Range Rover sport non supercharged. Any way to tell if the crankshaft bolt is clock wise or counter clockwise? It’s to rusted to read the numbers on the screw

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Everything after 2010 (from Land Rover) should be the reverse thread bolt that you turn clockwise to remove. You can always call your local dealership with your VIN and have them verify the part number though (LR011952).

Hey bro, does the harmonic balancer orientate a specific way where the 6 bolts attach to the flange that the crank bolt holds on?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, it is keyed to the crankshaft so it will only fit on in one orientation.

Hey Evan, question do you know what is the right sequence to tighten the head cover screws and torque ? I cannot find this information anywhere.. Than you again.

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

The valve cover bolts are torqued to 10 lb-ft. The torque pattern is available in the workshop manual. I'll try to explain it here for the left hand cover. Just mirror it over for the right hand side. "Inner" and "outer" here refer to the engine, so inner is closest to the V or center of engine. 1 (middle row third from back of engine), 2 (middle row fourth from back), 3 (inner row third from back), 4 (outer row third from back), 5 (middle row second from back), 6 (middle row very back), 7 (outer row second from back), 8 (inner row second from back), 9 (outer row very back), 10 (inner row very back), 11 (middle row fifth from back), 12 (middle row very front), 13 (outer row fourth from back), 14 (inner row fourth from back), 15 (outer row fifth from back), 16 (inner row fifth from back), 17 (outer row very front), 18 (inner row very front).

Can you recall if the fuel line over the passenger side valve cover just swivels out of the way, or did you have to forcibly bend it?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

You do need to force it out of the way, but it's a sturdy stainless steel line so it takes some force. You shouldn't need to permanently bend it though, just enough to wiggle the valve cover past it.

Nice video man, ill do the same job on my 2012 RR Sport Supercharger and I have two questions... on the kit from AB it comes with three chains with guides ... and the video I just saw two chains being putting in position... this third chain has position also ? because I saw some marks on that ... And the second question is if you have interest in rent your set of tools to me do this job... would help me a lot ... Thank you so much in advance.

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

Hi Marcio. The third chain in the kit is for the fuel pump cam. Unless you suspect your fuel pump is out of time (you can check this with the LR fuel pump timing tool), there is no need to replace the fuel pump chain and guide. The the fuel pump chain guide is simply spring loaded, so not much that can fail on it. Unfortunately I do not rent out my timing tools, but there may be places online that do.

Great video and information is helpful...I am looking to see if you can elaborate some more on how to apply tension on the cam gears, inlet and exhaust valves....thanks for the video...

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Sure thing. You only apply torque to the inlet cam sprockets using the supplied tool in your timing tool kit. You apply the torque counterclockwise for both banks. You'll need two people, one to apply and hold the torque to the cam sprocket with the special tool (torque to 35 Nm), another to actually torque down the cam sprocket bolts (torque to 32 Nm). When you apply and hold the torque to the intake sprocket, tighten the bolts on the exhaust cam sprocket first, followed by the bolts on the intake cam sprocket. Hope that helps!

Did you replace any other parts besides the fuel injectors while doing this job? Water pump, thermostat, etc.? And where did you buy your tools for this job? The price I saw in your comments seemed much cheaper than British Atlantic. By the way, I watched the British Atlantic video of this job and I thought yours explained the timing position much better!

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! I did not replace any other parts aside from everything required for the timing chain replacement and the injectors. I bought the timing chain/guide replacement kit that Atlantic British sells that included the valve cover gaskets, etc., but had to order the new crank bolt and friction washers from the dealer. The only tool I purchased from Atlantic British was the fuel injector removal tool, and that was after my first one (from eBay) failed. The other tools I purchased from either eBay or Amazon.

@ryhendo9767

3 жыл бұрын

You want to do the plastic cooling pipes under the intake or SC

so... when can I drop off my 5.0L supercharged to get this same service done by you? please advise, thanks

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear you're having the same problem, it is way too common on the 5.0L engine. Unfortunately I just wrench on my own cars. Any good mechanic should be able to get the job done for you though with the tips in this video.

Hi evan. I’m new to your channel. I just wanted to know how many Turn did you do on the crankshaft in direction of engine rotation until crankshaft timing pin can be installed. The last part. Thank you

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

There is a single hole on the flywheel for the crankshaft timing pin, it is accessible once every rotation of the crank shaft. After you've installed the timing hardware, you are supposed to rotate the crankshaft 2 complete revolutions before you refit the cam locks to check engine timing is correct. When the cam locks fit correctly, the crankshaft timing pin should also fit correctly. Hope that is helpful.

Thanks for a great video. Did you have to code your new injectors, or was it simply a matter of plug and pray? Thanks

@evandoeseverything174

7 ай бұрын

You do not need to code in new injectors.

@nonion2003

7 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thank you.

Congratulations on completing what I believe is a very difficult job! Did you have to remove the AC condenser or just the radiator? Thanks

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, the AC condenser comes out with the radiator, so unfortunately you must recharge the AC system with refrigerant once you get it all back together.

@sergiomovsessian49

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 OK, that's not a problem for me. Thanks!

👍

At 12:05 you show the play in the chain, is this because of the tensioners, or are the variators out of adjustment? How difficult is it to get the chains themselves out and new ones back in? I have a nasty oil leak which seems to be on the passenger side, and the truck hasn’t been driven much. Not going to lie, this job is very intimidating, and I’ve been procrastinating it almost a year now. Today I finally started it, and with only an hour and a half in I have made good progress getting some stuff removed. Any Rover fanatics in Upstate NY that want to hang out in the shop and lend a hand.

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

The slack you see there is due solely to the tensioners/guides being severely worn. My cam sprockets/variators were not out of time (ie I was not getting any codes for cam position/crank position correlation errors). I understand the job seems intimidating, but with a good set of timing tools you can knock it out! Best of luck and feel free to post up any questions if you run into anything.

I'm just starting this job on a full size Range Rover SC. I'm getting low compression on the entire drivers side bank. Any opinions out there on the cause? I'm thinking cam phaser stuck causing valve (open) crossover. Thanks.

@evandoeseverything174

Ай бұрын

Yes the engine could be out of time causing low compression, or a failed head gasket could also cause the low compression. Head gasket failure would be accompanied by other symptoms though like burning coolant, overheating etc.

@marktimmons7418

Ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Right. We’re on the same page. Thank you for the response. There’s none of the symptoms you describe of a head gasket, but I’m not counting anything out yet. I’ll update this comment with what I find to maybe benefit others. Later.

These engines are not like BMW engines that has no key on the crank cog and VVT gears, right? If so, why need to loosen the 3 bolts on each VVT gear and retighten them? As long as the timing marks are aligned, timing is good assuming all timing parts are now (or no stretch on the chain if reused) I would think. And if so, no need to insert the locking tool on the back of the camshaft and hence no need to remove valve cover (if u agree with the assumption that chains don't get stretched and no need to replace them). Then the whole job is a lot easier when u don't have to remove everything on top of the valve covers.

Hi, I had to get of the cylinder head of bank 2 (injectors were stuck due to offroad, wanted to repair valve cover gasket). Chain/Tensioners very are already done and are fine and new. We put everything back in nice and smoothly - but I have problems with the timing only on that bank 2. Bank 1 was untouched and there are no timing problems. Question: Can I set the timing only on ONE bank? Or do I have to open valve cover on bank 1 also? I fear, that the injectors are stuck there too....

@evandoeseverything174

10 ай бұрын

Whether just bank 1, bank 2, or both are out of time, the engine should be reset to correct time with access to the crankshaft. So the procedure in this video should be followed.

@gseum

10 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 thanks for your answer - I did this now already, machine is working fine again. I thought about the problem and was getting the same conclusion: Problem with one bank is, that you have 2 revolutions of the engine to get the correct top dead center - so if you do only one bank, the chance is 50:50 to get the correct position.

Can only one person do the Timing Chain job? I'm by myself. I have a 2012 lr4 with 105k miles. Any reason should I replace the injectors or water pump too? Can you also list where you found all your parts ?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

The only thing I needed two people for was when I torqued down the cam sprockets. You need two people (or at least I did) to have one person applying the correct torque to the actual cam sprocket (which puts the correct tension on the chain), while the other applies the correct torque to the cam sprocket bolts. No reason to replace the injectors unless they're old and crappy, hard to get out like mine were. The water pump is right there and it would be easy to replace it then, but I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it. I sourced all of my parts from Atlantic British except the crank shaft friction washers and the new crank bolt. Thanks for watching my video and I hope it's helpful for you!

Hey when you went to put the valve covers back on did you use the alignment tool for that I’m currently fixing the right side and found where the tool Jaguar/Land Rover 303-1446 alignment tool just curious if I need to use this because it’s $100

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

I did not use any alignment tool to put the valve covers back on. The gaskets help seat the valve covers where they need to be pretty well.

@michaelberger6255

Жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 yeah after looking at it I decided to just do it her car is a 2011 Jaguar xj 5.0 which is the same as ur engine how many miles did u have on ur engine when u did the timing chains hers has 120,000 give or take and the chains where still tight I was having a fuel related issue and both valve covers are leaking so I replaced the right hand side because the oil was getting on the alternator and high pressure fuel pumps on that car it was a utter nightmare

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

@@michaelberger6255 My LR4 had 135k miles when I did the job. You're spot on though those high pressure fuel pumps can cause some headaches!

Hey bro, my 5.0 sport non supercharged has rattle noise since 2-3 days ago. It was built in either nov or dec 2012. All the paper works call my truck 2013 model. I heard that LR fix the problem in mid of 2012. I'm going to bring it to the mechanic next week. Do you thing the mechanical warranty would cover this? I still have 10 months left. Thanks

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately although Land Rover changed the design of the timing chain guides in 2013, the problem has persisted to today with the 5.0 and 3.0 engines, particular at higher mileage if they haven't had the oil changed regularly. The rattle could be other things but your mechanic will be able to figure it out. No telling if your warranty would cover it, that'd be dependent on the policy.

@metromotel

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Just brought it to mechanic this morning who specializes in Jaguar. He listened for 5 minutes and suspected the noise came from water pump. He said he only dealt with 3 timing guide issues so far. BTW, i'm from Christchurch New Zealand.

Hey, Thanks for uploading such a detailed tutorial. my 2010 LR4 with roughly 100k miles has the rattle. My understanding is the chain is not usually the issue, its just the tensioner and guide. You mentioned the zip tie method. I understand not as much is being replaced but at only 100k miles, would it be overkill to do a full chain job like you're showing or should I just do the guides?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

So long as the engine is still in correct timing (you don't have a check engine light for crank/cam position sensor correlation errors or misfires) you can just replace the guides and tensioners, no problem. You are correct in that the chain is not typically the issue. Sounds like you've caught the rattle/problem early enough that you can just do the zip tie method.

@kl3vr

Жыл бұрын

@EvanDoesEverything thanks for the response. I dont have any of those codes, its just noisy.

@kl3vr

Жыл бұрын

If I'm only planning to do the zip tie method and with the mileage about 100k, what other parts should I replace while I'm there? Water pump, hoses, thermostat, plastic bits? It's a new to me LR4 and I got it for a song but I have no service records...

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

@@kl3vr I'm a firm believer of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." so it's really up to you, but you will have good access to the water pump and belts should you want to replace them. The stuff that you remove to gain access for the zip tie method is just ancillary stuff, no real wear items.

I thanks to you and your video I was able to do my timing chain repair. I really appreciate you making this video. I have a question. When I finished the job my L405 started right up and runs great. However I’m getting a CEL and when I pull the codes it’s giving me 4 codes. P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019. All 4 codes are camshaft position correlation. Is there something I need to reset to clear these? I’m nearly positive I set the timing correctly. I followed your vid, locked the cams out, put the crank in the safe position, and all timing marks lined up with the chain, VVIs and chain guide. I’m not sure how to clear these codes. I tried with my scanner, and also disconnected the battery. Is there anything I’m forgetting? I made a video on my page if you wanna take a quick peak. Thanks in advance for your input.

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Peter, I checked out your video and firstly let me commend you on torquing the VVT/cam sprockets and their bolts by your self! That's tricky to do without two people! I saw that you mentioned you had already replaced the cam position sensors and crank position sensor before doing the timing work, which was the first thing I thought of after reading your comment. Unfortunately with those ruled out, the engine is most likely just slightly out of time. It could be that your cam locks where not quite tight enough or the flat of the lock was not actually engaging all the way across the slot on the cam, or when the chains went on perhaps you were a tooth off and ended up with slack between the crank and cam (all slack should be between the crank and cam sprocket on the tensioner side only). You may only be a degree of two out of time, which the VVT units can make up so you certainly won't cause any engine damage, but you may need to reset the timing again to get rid of your CELs.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Evan, you are right! I took it all apart yesterday (in 12 hours) and realized the timing is slightly off. I wish I would’ve realized this when I set it the first time but what are you gonna do. The timing marks lined up on the VVIs but were about a link and a half off the mark on the timing guides. The first time I set it I didn’t use that specialty tool bolted on the camshaft to wiggle the cam back-and-forth to set the cam lock. After doing so this time I realized how much play you can actually have in the cam even with the lock in, and if you wiggle the cam back-and-forth you can really get it locked out properly. So this week I will reassemble it and report back if I fixed my problem :-)…thank you for staying engaged and answering my questions. I really really appreciate it and you made this fixed possible for me with this video and the knowledge you’ve passed along. Cheers brother.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 So I just finished it. I had to completely disassemble it and re-time the motor. As it turns out, I timed the cams 180° off. That was a learning experience I hope I never repeat. The numbers on the back of the cam shaft were barely visible after I cleaned them really good. I had them face in toward the motor. THEY NEED TO BE FACING OUTWARD 😂 whoops. I thought I had them set that way the first time. I didn’t. It’s all good now and imagine, no CEL 🙌🏻👍🏻

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

@@petercunningham5820 Great to hear! Sucks to spend all the time re-doing it but know you saved literally thousands doing it yourself. Great job man!

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks brother. Have a great weekend.

Hi there. Would you be able to rebuild a 2011 RRSS. It’s misfiring and does not drive emit then 20 mph. I have to manually shift in order to pick up some speed. Error code says mistiming

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

It does sound like the timing is off if you're getting crank shaft/cam shaft sensor timing correlation errors. Unfortunately I just work on my own vehicles, but you can DIY the timing job if you've got the right tools and some free time.

@emer_tiri

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Yes. Timing is off. Timing chain has to be replaced. Yeah major job and will take me a long time to do it myself.

What model year Range Rovers have the timing chain guide issue?

@evandoeseverything174

11 ай бұрын

The 2010-2012 Range Rovers, LR4s, and Range Rover Sports all may have this issue. Land Rover changed the design of the timing chain guide rail and tensioner slightly in 2013 to remedy the problem, but, still some 2013 and on Rovers (to present day) have this issue.

Thanks again for the great video. My question is did you replace the vvt cam gears or can they be cleaned?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it! I chose not to replace the VVT gears. I just thoroughly cleaned them while they were off.

@scottweaver5327

2 жыл бұрын

Ok thank you for getting back to me

@seacrestfpv8412

2 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Why not replace them? My issue is the previous owner did this job and he did replace them (with oem apparently) but there is cam/crank correlation issues and misfiring this started immediately after he did the job…

@evandoeseverything174

2 ай бұрын

@@seacrestfpv8412 They are quite pricey, about $500 each for OEM parts. I only wanted to replace them if they appeared badly worn, which mine did not.

Question... For the left side timing cam cover, how did you remove it without breaking that coolant "T" tab that bolts onto the cover?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

I'm not quite sure which part you're talking about, but I can say there are no tricks to getting the left side front timing cover off. I just removed all of the hardware and pulled it off after the left side valve cover was removed. The front timing covers are pretty well stuck in place from the silicone sealant on them, but once you get if freed up a little they'll come off, and you don't have to bring them way forward to get them off, so no issue clearing the large plastic coolant T. Hope that helps. Let me know if you're still having trouble with it.

@JJ-iz5ql

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 appreciate the help. At 15:30 you can see the tab im talking about. So top left you see the black plastic coolant pipe, and slightly to the right is the tab which takes a bolt that goes through it and bolts onto the front face of the timing cover. All hardware is off and there is no space between that tab and the timing cover.

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@JJ-iz5ql Ah I see what you're talking about now. Once you remove the hardware there you should have enough wiggle room with the black plastic coolant pipe to free the timing cover from its dowels (you can also see the dowels at about 15:30, they protrude only about 0.25"). I don't remember that being an issue in particular, and I don't remember having to really force that coolant tube hard out of the way, so if it seems like it's holding the timing cover in place it's probably not, and probably just that the cover is a little stuck on the dowels still. I used a rubber mallet to lightly tap the timing covers off from the top, or at least to get them started and then pry with a plastic pry tool.

@JJ-iz5ql

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 i work at a snail's pace.... I was able to take the cover off! I just tugged on the bottom left of the cover and it popped right off. Appreciate the help! EDIT Disregard the following, I got the bolt off :) Now onto bigger issues..... That crank bolt seems waaaaay too tight. I'm tugging on it to the point that my special socket is about to skip and its not budging. Im assuming its reverse thread correct? I cant really see the top of the bolt since it all looks rubbed off but I can kind of see a number 2 on there... So maybe its a 12 meaning reverse. It's a 2012 if that matters.

But why they say that you need to change the flexplate if the pin lock of the crank flexplate is in and the woodruff key is not on 6 ocklock? Does it move out of place over time? It shouldnt? So what should you go after? They square on the flexplate or the 6 oclock position if they dont match?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

The woodruff key on the crankshaft will be in the 6 o'clock position when the engine is in proper time AND when the engine is 180 degrees out of proper time. You can also verify the engine is in proper time by looking at the marks on the backs of the camshafts (the little square indentation should be on the bottom). The crank position sensor locking tool ensures that the engine is in proper time, unless the flexplate has been installed incorrectly by the factory or during an engine rebuild. That's what Land Rover is trying to say in the service manual.

@jamilshakfah533

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 So we found the issue....the crankshaft has a little pin sticking out to match the hole in to the flexplate, so you cant install it wrong. Land rovers seems to not have that. So should we install timing based on the lock pin on the flexplate or woodruff key at 6 oclock??

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@jamilshakfah533 When the flexplate is locked in place by the crank position sensor tool, the woodruff key should be at the 6 o'clock position. If that is not the case, it would indicate that the flexplate was incorrectly installed. In that case I would base timing off of the position of the camshafts and the woodruff key at 6 o'clock, and lock everything down using only the cam locks and the locking tool that fits where the starter mounts.

What is the zip tie method, what does it aim to do? Estimated time and cost of that ?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

The zip tie method leaves the valve covers and everything under them in place, only requiring you to remove the front timing covers. You zip the cams together to "lock them down" while you remove the timing chain tensioner and guides. You CANNOT replace the timing chain with this method, only replace the tensioners and guides. Shop time is more like 8-10 hours, instead of 20. kzread.info/dash/bejne/rGV5lsOho5C5eKw.html

I need this tool

Evan great video. Question I have everything installed and timed. How many rotations of the crank until you got everything back in alignment?

@evandoeseverything174

9 ай бұрын

If things are properly timed, two complete rotations of the crank puts you back at where you started. In other words, after two rotations of the crank the camshafts will be oriented so that you can once again put the lock blocks on them, the crank shaft will be oriented with the key in the 6 o'clock position, the flywheel will be oriented such that you can refit the locking pin. The marks on the chain WILL NOT line back up with the timing marks on the guides though.

@bouavonechanthamala5420

9 ай бұрын

Awesome thanks Evan. Great video and thank you for your time

@bouavonechanthamala5420

9 ай бұрын

Evan last question. Before starting up the vehicle, did you install everything 100 percent before cranking the engine over or did you partially start up before you installed the fan, radiator etc…..

@evandoeseverything174

9 ай бұрын

I installed everything completely before starting the engine. Always good to check and then double check as things go back together that you're not forgetting a connector or hose clamp, etc. somewhere. @@bouavonechanthamala5420

did you have to drop the oil? or just the coolant ?

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

You'll lose most of the oil when you remove the vacuum pump on the front of the engine exposing the fuel pump cam. I just topped the oil back up after putting things back together, never actually removed the oil drain plug. But hey, it's not a bad time to do an oil change if you want.

11:48 notice the chain mark off by a tooth? Mine had the same thing on both banks.

@evandoeseverything174

4 жыл бұрын

The marks on the chains will not necessarily line up every time the engine is in the safe position. For example, once you set the timing correctly and align all the marks, if you rotate the engine 2 revolutions (which puts it back to the safe position so you can check for proper time again by installing the cam locks), you'll find that marks no longer line up. To think about it another way, when the crank and cams complete 2 revolutions, that does not mean that a single link of the chain has traversed the entire path all the way around the crank and cams. The marks are there so that you can ensure the chain is properly tensioned and no slack exists in between the crank/tensioners/guides/cams where it shouldn't.

This is a dumb question but when you remove the crank position sensor to install the lockout tool, how do you turn the crank to get the motor in the top dead center position to get the lock in? Do you just turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar from under the car while trying to instal the lock tool or is there another way? I'm about to start this job this week and was just thinking about this. This is my first "time" ever doing timing on a vehicle :).

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, just get a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise to rotate the engine. Much easier to do with the cooling fan out of the way.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks!

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Another question as i'm in the middle of the job now. So I have it all apart. I was able to put the fly wheel lock in, cam lock on the driver side in, but on the passenger side the intake cam is clearly out of time ( about 20 degrees). What should I do to get it back in the proper position so I can put the lock in? Take the VVI off or chain off and rotate the cam back so its in the correct position, then install the lock? The mark on the chain is about 2 links off the mark on that VVI (The marks on the chains line up with all the other marks on the VVI's). How does it get like that? VVI slip or is it possible the chain jumped?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

@@petercunningham5820 It is definitely possible that the cam jumped time a bit. You'd likely have DTCs (check engine light) that indicate crank/cam position sensor correlation error. The timing kits come with adapters that attach to the cams (they bolt up to the cams just like the VVT cam sprockets would) so you can move the cams as needed. You will need to remove the VVT sprockets to do so though. So long as you're at TDC and the flywheel lock is in place, you're good to disassemble the top end and reset everything back into correct time using the timing tool kit.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 This is exactly the info I was looking for. THANK YOU so much for answering. I REALLY REALLY appreciate it. Does that mean the VVI gear is bad or can I just reset the timing, set the torque again on the VVI gears and be good to go. I'm installing all new guides, tensions, and chains.

Hi Even, do you have a list of all the tools needed for this job? Links to the tools you've purchased?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

I don't have a complete list of all the tools, but I can say I spent about $1200 in parts and about $500 for the specialty tools (injector puller, timing/cam lock set, and crank pulley puller/installer set). The specialty tools were purchased on Amazon and Atlantic British (for the fuel injector puller). The rest of the tools needed were just your basic metric wretch and ratchet sets. I also needed one large jack stand to reach up and support the crank shaft lock tool as I removed the crank bolt, my smaller jack stands weren't tall enough to reach. A breaker bar certainly helps with the big bolts!

@bozste1813

Жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Do you know if there are part numbers for upper L/R and lower timing cover? Or did you use hi-temp rtv on all three?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

@@bozste1813 I used high temp RTV on the two upper timing covers. The lower timing cover (Land Rover part #LR011995) has a rubber seal built into it. I did not replace that part and just reused my old one, but in hindsight I wish I had replaced it. They run about $200.

U said it sounded like a diesel truck when u were moving those chains. They had play on them. Was it like a ticking noise

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Yup. The high pressure fuel pumps are always a bit noisy too, but that will emanate from the lower passenger side of the engine. The timing chain tick is heard toward the front of the engine and sounds a lot louder.

@benpuentes8838

3 жыл бұрын

So i heard as well it might b a manifold leak whats ur input on that

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@benpuentes8838 The timing chain tick is loud like engine knock. An intake manifold leak would not cause a similar sound, and would most likely cause a check engine light due to lean conditions. Exhaust manifold leak could sound like clicking, but again nothing as loud as the timing chain sound at the front of the engine. Timing chain problems often throw check engine lights for correlation errors between the camshafts and crankshaft. I'd start by seeing if you've got any CEL's.

@benpuentes8838

3 жыл бұрын

No check engine light at all it runs smooth and horsepower is there

Evan, do you happen to have the part number(s) for the friction washers?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Sure do, it's LR010696.

@JJ-iz5ql

3 жыл бұрын

Are they the same for the crank and cams?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@JJ-iz5ql The friction washers are only on the crank.

@JJ-iz5ql

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 copy that thank you for responding. I'll be giving it a shot this coming weekend, but I plan on doing the easy method :/ so just guides and tensioner. Im praying the chains are fine

where did you buy the the timing chain from.

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

I bought all the parts from Atlantic British.

Thanks for an awesome video! I need to do this job soon... A few questions; Does the AC need to be de-charged or is there any way to avoid that? Tips on that part? Also, anyone have more thoughts on ebay tool kits? AB is SO expensive for a 1-time job! Thanks again!

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Any shop that does AC work will recover the refrigerant for just a few bucks. You can vent it to the atmosphere with no harm to the AC system, but it is technically illegal to do so in the US. I think most of the ebay tools are just fine, but I did find that the higher quality injector puller from AB was needed because the cheap version of the tool (from Amazon) broke after pulling just 2 injectors. You may have better luck than me though.

how much did you spend on parts i have codes timing

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

I spent about $1900 on parts, and about another $500 on the specialty tools. I know that's still expensive, but a far cry from the $11k I was quoted for the job at my local Land Rover dealer.

Does anyone have part numbers for the crankshaft friction washer, crank bolt, and fuel injector seals? I have a 2013 RR Full Size SC 5.0L

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Crank friction washers are LR010696G. Crank bolt is LR011952. Fuel injector seals/rebuild kit is LR037089G.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thank you very much. How many Crank friction washers do I need?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

@@petercunningham5820 You will need 2.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks again for the expedient response. I appreciate it.

I can’t get both sides of my cams to line up to install cam tool. Did I do something wrong

@evandoeseverything174

4 ай бұрын

Are you referring to the intake and exhaust cam being misaligned on a single bank, or you can't get the left and right bank (each side of the engine) to be lined up together? It's possible that your engine is out of the correct timing and you'll need to move the cams.

@mistrfixit987

4 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 yes, I can’t put can lockers on at same time. I had no codes when I took it apart.

@evandoeseverything174

4 ай бұрын

And you've got the locking pin in the flywheel?@@mistrfixit987

@mistrfixit987

4 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 yes

How much would you say this job cost you to do in parts and specialty tools?

@evandoeseverything174

7 ай бұрын

The parts/fluids were about $1500, and the specialty tools were about $500, give or take.

@DecosGarage

7 ай бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 wow not bad! making me really consider taking this job on. i know i can do it just not sure i feel like it 😂

Hey Captain America I have a 2012 LR4 I purchased from someone out of state as is I was told the car sat for a while because the previous owner turned the car off after white smoke. Now my dads mobile mechanic came and tried to turn the engine from starter motor hole and told me engine doesn't turn that its most likely seized. Do you think it can be timing chain or something else instead any suggestions?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Hard to say without knowing the history from that previous owner, but it could be that the head gasket failed and there was coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. That leaking water/coolant could have dried up/rusted/left corrosion inside the cylinder bores and on the piston rings while it sat for a long time leaving it seized when you tried to start it. Could also be that the motor lost timing and a piston hit a valve and bent it. I'd try a breaker bar on the crank bolt and see if I can get the engine to turn over at all, with a bit more force, perhaps if you can get it to rotate then you can check if the timing is correct.

Can anyone recommend a special tool kit to order to do this job. I have to do this on my full size 2013. Gonna order the timing parts kit at AB for 1,100 bucks. I have a hard time spending 1,200 bucks on their specialty tool kit for this one time job for me.

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

I purchased the timing tool kit and crank pulley holder/puller tool kit from Amazon. I would recommend buying the injector removal tool from Atlantic British though, as my first one from Amazon very quickly became useless/broke.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks good to know. I see AB has an entire kit of specialty tools needed to complete the job but they want like 1200 bucks for it. Thats a bit spendy for my blood considering i'm only gonna hopefully need it once. My indy shop quoted me 7K to do the job yesterday. Ouchhhhh...No thank you. I'll do it myself.

Hi there, this may not be the smartest question but, on a '11 V8 LR4, to replace the Left side Valve cover gasket is it necessary to lock or to even touch the camshaft at all? Also, at 10:50 and 11:03 on your vid. there is a nipple looking plug facing out towards the back by the last bolt/screw location I believe it's part of the head cover?! do you know what that is the part department and even the wholesale side of the Rover dealer didn't have a clue. I have leak on that part and not really anywhere else on the valve cover. sweet video and thank you much in advance for any tips, sir

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

Nope, if you're just replacing the valve cover gasket, there is no need to lock the cams or anything, you won't be touching anything timing related. If you're referring (at 10:50 in the video) to the black plastic hose that runs down and around the back of the engine, that is part of the evaporative emissions system. That tube specifically is part number LR015391.

@rayrezakeramati3408

Жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 thanks a bunch for taking the time and responding. I'm actually asking about this one round looking thing almost like a nipple looking thing that has threads inside with no bolt or nothing in it. Or maybe the valve cover is just leaking over this round dowel thing making it look as if the leakage is coming out of that thing. I believe it's is a part of the head unit. Either way, thanks bud😎

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

@@rayrezakeramati3408 Ah yes, then I think you're referring to the unused threaded hole that is part of the cylinder head. Most likely some oil has gotten in there from the valve cover gasket leak, making it appear like that's leaking, but it is just a threaded hole for a bolt or a stud, no way oil can leak from that.

@rayrezakeramati3408

Жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 I thought so too. Thanks for confirming that for me. Cheers..

@rayrezakeramati3408

Жыл бұрын

​@@evandoeseverything174 sorry for asking so many questions but you're very on point unlike most everyone else! So as you pointed out in the Vid. I ran into the A/C lines being in the way and all ugh! did you do the A/C evac or did you recover it in a tank. I do have this manual it says to record the recovered oil and apply.. how intense was you experience with this? I'm assuming you did your own right? Thanks aagin bud!

Did you replace the chains, or just the tensioner s?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

I did replace the chains. Not too much more of an expense and very easy to do while everything is apart.

@MWIIIDesigns

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 I am ordering the kit for my 11 LR4, have a pretty good oil leak from somewhere, thinking it’s the timing, valve covers or both.

Where are you from? I'm looking for someone to change my chains.

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

I'm from Missouri, but unfortunately I only work on my own vehicles. Hopefully the video can guide other DIYers or even experienced mechanics that haven't done the job before though.

Hi Evan, Been going through a couple of videos on LR timing chains, tensioners, head gaskets and the DIY lads out there got their game on but I have to give it you on this one ☝🏼 quite something. Quick questions though on a few issues I’m experiencing as a first timer (been working my way back after replacing the head gaskets on my 2015 3.0 V6); a) I’ve set the timing dead on with the marks on the vvts and guides on two occasions but when I turn the engine to confirm, it seems to be slipping off at some stage and doesn’t align. What am I doing wrong? b) I’ve noticed that as I turn the engine, the tensioners pistons have slight up n down movements with noticeable tapping sound on the guide. Is this normal (I’ve tried to pull on the guide when pulling off the pin too) or should I replace them? c) What happens if the tension on vvts is not set properly (I had my wife pull on the tool with breaker bar as I tightened the three bolts. Should we use a torque wrench? I hope you can get me some clarifications on these as I need to finish this project ASAP. It’s been a month since I started (the head and valve job took two weeks at the machining shop and I’ve also got a few shipping delays with bits and pieces (parts).

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Michael! Hope the video is helpful for you if you ever need to deal with the timing chains/tensioners.

@mikiowino

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 sure…. I’ve considered to change the tensioners (keep popping up and down when turning the engine) I hope it’s what causing the lose of timing in the process. What are your thoughts on this? Also should I go genuine or I can work with some of these affordable timing kits on eBay. What’s your take on them?

@evandoeseverything174

2 жыл бұрын

@@mikiowino A bad tensioner can absolutely cause the engine to lose timing. If the engine is out of timing, you will likely get a check engine light, with a camshaft/crankshaft position sensor error. I have only read bad reviews on the cheap Chinese timing components (eBay, Amazon, etc.), and have never tried them myself. I believe that for something as critical as the engine timing, only genuine parts should be used.

@mikiowino

2 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 thanks again. I did change my tensioners and the timing was always on point. Was just never sure if the number of revolutions (engine turnings) it takes to have the timing chain marks align again, so I was worried after turning a few times and they never seen to be aligning again which made me suspect the tensioners.

@petercunningham5820

2 жыл бұрын

@@mikiowino I"m sure you have your answer already but you need to turn the crank CW 2 revolutions.

You forgot to change those VVTs cam phasers.. they're the reason why these timing goes bad.. remember these are the same engines made by ford ecoboost 2.0

How much would a job like this cost the owner of the vehicle?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

My local Land Rover dealership quoted me $8,500 dollars for the basic job, $11,000 for the job with a few ancillary parts (new water pump, fuel injectors, ect.) replaced while everything was apart. Instead, I spent about $1,500 on parts and another ~$500 on specialty tools and did the job myself.

I can’t find any documents regarding fuel pump timing… for some reason it got screwed up when i was rotating crank shaft… oops.

Can you do this to my car?

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

Sorry, but I just wrench on my own vehicles. A good independent mechanic may be able to do it for you a lot cheaper than the dealership though.

At 15:14 the one thing everyone fails to record. Pre. Tensioning the sprockets

@mrsteel10213

3 жыл бұрын

Can you please explain the pretension process . I’m lost in this procedure, like you move them up to 32 NM and then tighten the three bolts?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@mrsteel10213 Yeah it takes at least 2 people (and 2 torque wrenches) to do it right, and I didn’t have a 3rd person to record video. You are correct though, put torque on the camshaft sprocket with one torque wrench, then while holding it at the specified torque, have another person tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to the specified torque with the other torque wrench.

@mrsteel10213

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 Does intake have to be done before exhaust or vice versa or just any ordinary order. Thanks for the information. Lastly this gets done before removing tensioner pins? Thanks a ton.

Good job until the injector installation! I was shocked to see you are using the puller to install the injectors which made me think that you didn't use the teflon seal shrinking tool/installer. The injectors will go in by hand if you are using the proper injector seal tools, meaning the teflon seals must be pre-shrunk before installation. The actual tool kit is inexpensive and is a must when installing the injectors. By installing the injectors in with the puller and seeing how you hammer them in I can't help be worry that your teflon seals are compromised!

@matthannah4621

3 жыл бұрын

I've always used the seal shrinking tool to push the injectors in... pull them right out of the second shrink and immediately insert. works nice. I've had issues with building my injector seals and then letting them lay around. That Teflon seal expands. Really needs to come right out of the second side of the seal tool and pushed in immediately

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

I put in brand new injectors, the teflon seals are already installed on new injectors and are the correct outer diameter for install (I checked with the seal gauge tool). Have put about 20k miles on the vehicle since with no issues.

Parts numbers please!!

@evandoeseverything174

Жыл бұрын

This kit has all the OEM parts you need to do the timing chain job. There's quite a few parts/part numbers but they're all there. www.roverparts.com/engine/timing-chains-belts/TCK5030/

there is an on going class action lawsuit against JLR on the affected models with timing chain issues, every single owner should get involved and let the land rover stealership fix their shit product.

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, I hope the suit is successful and allows the repair to become heavily discounted or free at the dealer, though I'm not banking on it. It is a sadly flawed design on an otherwise great motor. How did a whole team of engineers find the steel tensioner pin pressing on an aluminum rail long term acceptable!?

@sstrey174

3 жыл бұрын

Hey do you have a link to info on the suit?

@evandoeseverything174

3 жыл бұрын

@@sstrey174 www.kgglaw.com/practice-areas/product-liability/timing-chain-class-action/

@harryj1081

3 жыл бұрын

@@evandoeseverything174 agreed man. If you go to class action organization website you could see bmw recently just had a similar timing chain problem in certain old model sedans and convertibles. It definitely worth the try. BMW was reimbursing full expense at dealership repairs or partial expense on third party. But it also depends upon mileage of the car.

God this looks like a nightmare.

Oil gas

I wish they made these cars have a removable subframe for the whole engine cradle. Would make it so much easier just to remove the engine to do this job lol its such a bitch to do. I just spent the last 6 months doing this on a 11 lr4. 👎 and these cars aren't worth the cost of what it costs to do this job lol ridiculous!

@motoroadrunner9589

10 ай бұрын

Oh and another tip for anyone not at a shop doing this. Replace everything you can. Gaskets every bolt and sensor. Don't wast time with the old shit

Not that mechanically inclined, so for me, solution never buy a Range Rover or anything with this type of motor.