A little tip David, don’t rewind your film all the way into the canister when you’ve finished shooting, that way you can cut the leader off and start off the spool in daylight before you put it in the bag (there is enough film to do this before the first frame)… I do all my films like this and never had an issues… After you agitate your tank give it a couple of taps on the work surface to dislodge any micro air bubbles from the film surface.. Great to see this content from your channel. 👍🇬🇧

So awesome, thank you so much for sharing he process! I love my print from the 1990 film!

Great no-nonsense tutorial. Thanks for sharing!

So happy to see a video pop up over here. Thanks!

I don't plan on ever developing photos, but I still watched the whole thing.

@bytesizedengineering

29 күн бұрын

Me too

Thanx Dave!

When I was in high school many years ago, we would process slide film during lunch time. We would process at an elevated temperature. The faster you got started the better, as the toilets flushing before the next class would cause the hot water used to keep the bath temperature would start to fluctuate

@b6983832

24 күн бұрын

E-6 is very strict on temperature and time only with the first developer. All of the following steps are until completion. Of course, if the color developer temperature is very much off, there will be issues with the right color balance. More often than not, the color balance issues in this process are due to carryovers, and wrong pH of the color developer. Was this already E-6. or are you talking about E-4? When was your high school? I started doing color with slides (E-6 already, it was in the late 1980's), and the place was our school's unofficial photo club - basically the physical education teacher and I. We could use the school darkroom for free, provided we bought the chemistry, papers and our films. Later,, I did also some Cibachrome printing. As color negative film, and especially color paper for negatives (EP-2 process way back then, the predecessor of RA-4) was much cheaper, I soon changed to shooting more negatives. I still do, and print color in my darkroom/bathroom. I do shoot and develop slides too, but there is no more materials for making prints from slide film (other than scanning or using an interneg). I never got into digital. It would be without the fun developing and printing in the darkroom is for me.

Really interesting process indeed, Dave! 😃 But yeah... Digital photography for me. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I can smell this video. takes me back to the darkroom at college

A couple of years ago I developed black and white negatives by scanning them and inverting in photoshop. I tried to scan color negatives and used different gradient maps to make the image correct. I came close but I couldn’t find a gradient map that was perfect. I would like to know what you would recommend.

@SomethingAboutMaking

Ай бұрын

Yeah, it's really hard in photoshop. Really wish they have a "negative" option. I use a plugin called Negative Lab Pro for Lightroom Classic

was that an acual can opener or a bottle opener @ 07:43? Thanks.

David, have you seen Technology Connections video on film? It's also good.

@SomethingAboutMaking

Ай бұрын

I have! Love his videos.

I miss doing this. I wouldn’t wear gloves because I like the smell of the chemicals 😅

Oneth

Is your immersion circulator just sitting on the bottom of the tub, or do you have it attached somehow? I have the same model and always use the brace, but if I can just put it on the bottom of a pot that'd be a game changer.

@SomethingAboutMaking

Ай бұрын

It's clamped to the side and does not sit on the bottom.

You should have better control of your time and temperature during the developing step. One minute of extra time in developer means about pushing your film +1 stop (doubling the film speed). Pour faster (use a vessel enabling this - beaker, or bottles with a wider opening), and do not use time for washing your stuff when there is developer in the tank. You should immerse your tank in a water bath when not agitating. Wrong or inconsistent temperature means often color casts, or in worst cases, color crossover. Never use chemistry beyond its limits. It will produce bad quality negatives. Film is not cheap, but developers are not very expensive. This is a bad way to spare costs risking to ruin your film.

Amazing how to man! I just put out a 60 second short detailing how I develop black and white film at home. I know what you're thinking. "Oh a short, its probably some low effort video" But I spent over a month working on it. High effort for 60 seconds of content. Hope you can check it out my fellow film tuber!

Instructions unclear. Water boiled at 100deg and wouldn't increase temp.

@smiffy5467

Ай бұрын

He’s American and using Fahrenheit which is 212 degrees boiling point… His water is 38.9 degrees Celsius for all non Americans 😂

@b6983832

24 күн бұрын

+100°F is +37.8°C. This would be the standard temperature for C-41. For some reason, many simplified kits sold for hobbyists in the US market use a higher temperature with a slightly longer developing time. I don't know is this because of differences in chemistry, or is it because they assume people will do as this guy did in this video - letting the tank cool down on the table without immersing the tank in a water bath,