Competition Climbing Tips - Indoors at The Depot Gym

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In this video, we have two of our competition specific coaches, Ollie Torr and Jen Wood doing a session on the latest comp boulders at The Depot Climbing Centre in Sheffield. Ollie is a long-time outdoor climber, but spends a lot of time coaching national and international athletes, whereas Jen is an international comp climber herself and also a trainer! As well as representing Great Britain in bouldering, she was also British Speed champ in 2018 - a bit of an all-rounder!
Tips and tricks covered in this episode:
1. Standing on volumes
2. Lower body dynamic problems
3. Fingers in bolt-holes!
4. Jump style problems & options
5. Route reading prep vs en-route intuition
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Пікірлер: 39

  • @Klemmi.
    @Klemmi.4 жыл бұрын

    "... then it's just a normal foothold, if you believe in it!" I am definitely lacking faith... Great video! =)

  • @smuir6104
    @smuir61044 жыл бұрын

    This is one of the best videos you've made, I like how your analytical mind goes to studying her style vs. yours, and I see the learning. I think that is one thing I have noticed in our sport, is that we tent to be quite humble, and willing to learn all of the time. Where in other sports I don't see at as often.

  • @hydra66
    @hydra664 жыл бұрын

    love your ability to break things down and reflect at the end

  • @sophie4051
    @sophie40514 жыл бұрын

    Grrrl power! Love it

  • @NathanBetts
    @NathanBetts4 жыл бұрын

    Those Sheffield blocs always confuse me. Often the ones that look easy turn out to be absolutely nails!

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    Nathan Betts Bouldering don’t we all know it! 😁

  • @MrJaneco84
    @MrJaneco844 жыл бұрын

    Nice to see can show an old new tricks. Lol way to go Jen & Ollie.

  • @910suck
    @910suck4 жыл бұрын

    More “vlog” style videos

  • @miel_ap
    @miel_ap4 жыл бұрын

    If you only include right audio channel on your next video, we can comfortably watch 2 at once! :)

  • @matthaeusschlaml6742
    @matthaeusschlaml67424 жыл бұрын

    man depot centres look so neat and nice. Really got to make my way over there more often.

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    matthaeus schlaml yup they’re all very nice!!

  • @leoingson
    @leoingson4 жыл бұрын

    Lots of little gems + showing some weakness = nice!

  • @calvintse274
    @calvintse2744 жыл бұрын

    Does anyone know where they get their music that put in these videos?

  • @ljp3639
    @ljp36394 жыл бұрын

    I want to improve my finger strength using Hangboards, however I haven’t got that much Experience with them, therefore I want to ask if would you recommend power endurance work to start with or shall I go for weighted hands directly.

  • @KrystofRemes

    @KrystofRemes

    4 жыл бұрын

    Hangboarding generally is safer than any campus style training. For raw finger strength hangboarding is best imo. It also makes tracking finger strength gains very easy. Im not sure how much finger strength you would actually gain from power endurance training, i think you would just risk a pulley injury.

  • @zhalzel

    @zhalzel

    4 жыл бұрын

    Maybe by "power endurance" he means repeaters? That's a pretty safe intro to hangboarding

  • @haragusvlad3220
    @haragusvlad32204 жыл бұрын

    Nice shoes Ollie! are those some Unparallel model?

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    Haragus Vlad they are!

  • @ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy
    @ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy4 жыл бұрын

    Would you say this type of bouldering will also help you with outdoor climbing?

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    Definitely!!! There are so many unique movement styles and body positions that are in many ways "harder" indoors. You will then find the movement outside easier, relatively.

  • @910suck
    @910suck4 жыл бұрын

    What model of shoe is that? (Ollies)

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    EZ Unparallel Regulus

  • @910suck

    @910suck

    4 жыл бұрын

    Lattice Training looked pretty flat... wouldn’t have guessed it. Thanks

  • @2doggyman
    @2doggyman4 жыл бұрын

    Question: I am interested to know how does one becomes a coach? What approach would you suggest? I don't have a degree in Sports Science or anything related ang going back to school full time is out of question. But with the years I have accumulated a whole lot of knowledge on nutrition and training and I am still eager to learn more by reading new research papers (and watching your videos :P). I love to help others in their climbing training and for now I do it for free for friends and family and I had really good feedback on the programs I did for them. But now I would be interested to go further and maybe start coaching as a job. Do you have any tips for me? Thanks a lot and love all your videos!

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    It's simply a.case of taking your time to build up your experience and knowledge in the background. Try and shadow good coaches, ask lots of questions, read lots, be prepared to question others but also be questioned yourself and ALWAYS keep an open mind!

  • @Music-kq1iu
    @Music-kq1iu4 жыл бұрын

    Lattice Training

  • @DwayneHoover94
    @DwayneHoover944 жыл бұрын

    Great content but audio is difficult to understand. Too much mumbling.

  • @judahkeelin5441
    @judahkeelin54414 жыл бұрын

    @Lattice Ive just climbed my first V8 after less than 6 months of climbing, do you think it’s possible for me to be the next Alexey Rubstov?

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    FiveStarKiller in 6 months?!?! That’s impressive! 💪💪💪💪

  • @judahkeelin5441

    @judahkeelin5441

    4 жыл бұрын

    Thanks! I’ve been climbing 10 plus hours a week for most of it so I’m pretty sure that’s a big factor lol(couple rest weeks thrown in)

  • @judahkeelin5441

    @judahkeelin5441

    4 жыл бұрын

    Any recommendations for how to build up my tendons to prevent injury?

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@judahkeelin5441 slowly, progressively and with plenty of adequate rest. Many people rush this - it's a process that takes years and you have to be patient. Worth it though!

  • @judahkeelin5441

    @judahkeelin5441

    4 жыл бұрын

    Will do, thanks

  • @moneymaken9232
    @moneymaken92324 жыл бұрын

    The audio with headphones is the worst, only one has their voices, hard to listen to

  • @jack-ux6wn

    @jack-ux6wn

    Жыл бұрын

    Sounds fine to me

  • @TheXeeman
    @TheXeeman4 жыл бұрын

    shes built like a TANK

  • @druiddialga
    @druiddialga4 жыл бұрын

    Fix the audio next time

  • @LatticeTraining

    @LatticeTraining

    4 жыл бұрын

    John Lindsay what is it about the audio you don’t like?

  • @noenaame2856
    @noenaame28564 жыл бұрын

    I didn't care about the drills and that anyhow. Content > some noise

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