That is one of the most confusing demos I've ever seen . You mixed sooo many parts together can't tell what goes where .

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Funny, I intentionally recapped both kits twice so folks wouldn’t get lost.

Kevin - Great video. I have a 69 Charger that is extremely similar to Brazen (512 Indy Head Max Wedge Holley EFI TKX etc.). I finally need to replace the rear main seal as I have been driving it for about 10 years now. (It's evolved a lot since then, lol). Anyway I did order the Mancini rear main seal updated version you showed here on your Hemi build. This was a VERY good video with great content. Keep up the great work!

@moparconnection

Ай бұрын

Very cool! I’d love to see your Charger!

Me and a buddy used the Mancini. Billet rear main seal kit but one thing we did different was we clocked both seals off set from the parting line if the engine block and the main seal holder on a 451 BB stroker we built for his 69 Plymouth road runner because the original seal holder started to leak shortly after we had the engine dynoed . Those 50 year old aluminum die casted rear mail seal holders can shrink over time and can have porosity in the casting that you cant see that will cause them to leak . I worked for many years at a aluminum die casting shop and a casting cam shrink some over time where a billet piece of aluminum will not nor will the billet have any porosity in the aluminum. I just found this channel that popped up on my KZread feed so i will be watching more of your videos for sure . If i remember 440 source sells a billet rear main seal for the R & RB blocks but im no sure how wll they are made .

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Appreciated! And yes the old cast seals are also very brittle and can crack.

Used it on my 440 build. It’s a point of pride to build a monster engine. Another point of pride entirely when it doesn’t leak a SINGLE drop.

@moparconnection

Ай бұрын

Bingo! This guy gets it!

Use the rope seal in the orig style it's available from 440 source and mancini

@moparconnection

3 ай бұрын

Please don’t. The new billet design is demonstrably better to the original rope design.

Thanks for the video I thought I was losing it. bought the race main seal holder from Mancini without the large seal. Well I now understand. Motor is in car and this will be the 3 time re-sealing. Am I going to be able to coherse that larger seal around the crankshaft? any tips All along I thought it was the side seals. You recommend installing dry no sealant?

@moparconnection

4 ай бұрын

It’ll absolutely slide in - it’ll be a pill to do it upside down inside the car but not impossible.

So it wasn’t clear on final install of mre220 kit with dual side seals. Do the side seals go in dry, with assembly lube, or rtv???

@DanimalZ32

2 ай бұрын

Was wondering the same thing. Need to install mine as well.

@moparconnection

2 ай бұрын

They go in dry and then get a thin coat of RTV before install.

All the close ups were blurry, but it looked like everytime you put the seal half in the retainer it was backwards 🤷🏻‍♂️

@moparconnection

Ай бұрын

Zooming in can make the images pixelated. It’s a free KZread channel, we don’t have the budget for $100k cameras like Roadkill. 😁

thanks

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

You're welcome!

FOCUS!!!!!

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Yeah, the auto focus on the lens didn't do a very good job. Oh well.

That "Heavy Duty" rear main seal can be purchased separately. It is made of Viton and is known as a Top Fuel/ Fel Pro 2947. You can even get it through Auto Zone. Those "square" side o-rings are not easy to find if you need to replace them. Indy Cylinder Heads recommended using an 1/8" o-ring. I went to a hydraulic repair shop and ended getting an 1/8" o-ring with a fairly big diameter to cut into 4 pieces. Edit... I watched to the end and noticed you posted the part number. Sorry. But unless you order $100+ from Summit... you have to pay shipping. Auto parts store don't charge for shipping.

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Yes, we literally put the Summit listing in the video at the end.

It would be great if you could get your camera to focus!

@moparconnection

22 күн бұрын

Thanks for watching!

ELIMINATE THE SIDE SEALS FILL IT WITH RIGHT STUFF USE THE VITON REAR MAIN SEALS ..

@moparconnection

Ай бұрын

👍🏻

Back in the day the side seals were supposed to be soaked in diesel fuel just before assembly...It caused the side seals to swell and I never had any issues with seals leaking... I always prefered the old rope style just soak it in oil and install...

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Yes! Those were when they were made from actual rope!

I'm always waiting on your videos ... I need help building my 67 plymouth barracuda

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

That’s so cool for you to say.

Some seals leak on the RB engines because the seal fit in the aluminum carrier are not concentric with the crankshaft! You need to check that by measuring everything. I used the stock carrier with a "Viton" seal and no problems.

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

I’ve never encountered a seal that wasn’t concentric, only that they didn’t properly crush because they sat too deep in the channels.

can't see why the guide's will prevent the seals from being lost??🤔

@moparconnection

3 ай бұрын

I'm not sure what you're asking.

There is also a one piece rear main seal on the market. We’ll see how it seals when the low deck goes on the dyno…

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Yeah I mentioned that in the video (per caption). I’ve used them before but you have to be careful that you don’t stretch them out too far when installing them over the crank. (Plus I didn’t have one on hand to demonstrate.)

Where are the timing order t-shirts? Can't find them on this site or the MCM site? Help! :)

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Of course today is the day that my web admin decides to migrate the magazine to a new server! I’ll put the hyperlink in the description right now but please give it a day before ordering. We’re still moving the site over.

Check the clearance on the rear main studs and billet seal retainer your not setting flush with the block

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

There was a little contact with the main cap hardware in this demonstration by that’s not the seal’s fault but our hardware choice. I don’t want to focus on that in this video - but good eye!

Just one note ,you mentioned high oil pressure as a reason for using the improved seal. That's irrelevant as only crank case pressure pushes on the seal.

@dmcnamara9859

5 ай бұрын

FYI: My 1987 Peugeot wagon has a XN6 in it. Although the rear caps have lateral seals for the rear main bearing cap,it simply uses a Archimedes Screw machined in crankshaft to keep oil in the sump when the engine is running. Engineering oil control done right,no need for a rear main bearing seal. Jaguar and Peugeot Indenor XD Diesels used a common then rope seal, however updated seal was changed to a silicone rope; less sensitive to drying out or infrequent oil changes....end result,rear main oil control issues resolved.

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Correct, Tom. Fel-Pro calls it a “High Pressure Rear Main Seal” in their catalog. If I said it was due to “high oil pressure” I clearly misspoke.

All your close up detail shots are blurry, so no we can’t see

@moparconnection

2 ай бұрын

Sorry!

I disagree Kevin . ALL BB Mopar Engines can leak Oil from the rear Main Seal no matter the Seal Retainer or Seal used.... just as all can be made to seal quite well utilizing just the factory Seal Retainer and cheapest stock neoprene seal..... it just depends on the attention to detail in observation of Lip Seal compression by the Crank during mock-up beforehand.... and subsequent 'manipulation of the Seal Retainer itself 'side to side' in the Block itself during assembly when utilizing 1/4" offset from the parting line to compensate for the poor concentricity of Machined 'groove' in the Block relative to the Crank C-Line. Obviously here.... Rear Main Seal installation/integrity on the Crank should checked prior to continuing assembly of Pistons/Rods.... by installing the Oil Pan temporarily and adding Oil... then "hanging' the Block/Seal/Crank sub-assembly from the front submerging the rear seal completely to verify NO leaks.... prior to then removing the Oil Pan and continuing full assembly. Far easier to sacrifice an Oil Pan Gasket this way to verify patent Seal positioning than to have it leak later on the Dyno ?

@moparconnection

5 ай бұрын

Certainly ANY builder can fumble a rear main seal installation if rushed or inattentive. But this kit radically improves one’s chances of success, and well without the many tricks and tips accrued over decades of builders forced to “make do” with stock components.