The dog and skateboard add character to the video!

I always use my lanyard when climbing outdoors. It's just soo handy. It's basically always attached to my harness. Attaching to bolts Attaching to an anchor extend my rappel When ascending a rope When doing a counterbalance rappel rappelling past a knot When trad climbing in a group of three you often need to swap rope ends. So attaching yourself with something that isn't the rope is mandatory and since it's always there I use it. I use it way more often than I use slings. I do carry slings. But since it's always there, I default to using the PAS

Very nice and informative video. Appreciate!

I keep coming back to this issue. When I did SRT caving, it was all static 8mm rope, and I had a permanently tied cow tail that I used all the time, one short, one long for passing bolts/knots etc. Obviously climbing needs dynamic rope and adjustability because you are less likely to be hanging, but as you have mentioned in different videos, when you arrive at an anchor, you clip in, the quickest solution is then to make it a clove hitch, or if you need more than arms reach, loop back to a carabiner on the belay loop and clove there. Makes more sense than carrying another piece of gear to do the same thing. I like the idea of the Slyde, mainly because it can be broken down and repurposed, so it is more versatile, but it specifically says that due to the lack of sufficient testing it can't be certified and so can not be considered PPE. I was sure there must be a way to achieve the same thing with just rope, but as previously posted a clove on a short length of rope has a risk, even with a stopper knot, of slipping off a carabiner. It needs to be a closed system, I was thinking, a length of dynamic rope with a carabiner at each end and an alpine butterfly in between, thus you can adjust the length, end to end by extending the butterfly loop. Ok it's not as quick, but can still be done one handed if necessary, the loop could be used to extend an abseil device and the other end could be used to clip the belay loop of another climber, in case of a rescue scenario, all without having to modify this setup. All from maybe 3 meters of climbing rope, and 2 locking carabiners. I have seen a similar idea from someone for canyoneering, but using a variation on a zeplin bend in place of the alpine butterfly, again, adjustable, and a closed loop, which could also be used to clip into for belaying.

Petzl also has a double version of the Connect, where you can go into the anchor with the long end and attach your ATC for abseiling on the other side of the lanyard. Nice for multipitch sport IMO.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

I’ve used the double briefly, but I find the single works quite well by clove hitching the belay device in to it.

@OliverBatchelor

Жыл бұрын

When would you do this instead of just attaching the belay device to your harnesses belay loop?

@Alyogyne1

Жыл бұрын

@@OliverBatchelor When extending the abseil point (away from your harness), so that you can use a french prusik from the belay loop below your abseil device as a third hand. If the french prusik runs into the abseil device, then the french prusik will not lock and not work as a third hand. There needs to be a bit of a gap between the two to make it work.

@OliverBatchelor

Жыл бұрын

@@Alyogyne1 Thanks! That actually sounds very nice.

Have watched many you tube videos and only yours keeps me interested till the end. Very unpartial information, very informative.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks very much!

Great. Thanks

Great information, you should do a video on shock absorbers. The Kong Kisa specifically.. 👀

Jez, I really appreciate your videos. Probably the best out there and I've watched several over again. Just a quick question, when setting up a top rope or abseil anchor is it safe to set up and a static with a knot at the appropriate point eg the edge and then use a 120 dyneema sling with a Kleimhiest attached to the rope and a larks foot on the belay loop. This would be adjustable and allow movement at the top of a crag and have a stopper knot in the static for safety? I hope that makes sense.

I like Conquista's "Fita Multi Chain Bomber", adjustable, attaches in a way that makes a backup belay loop, and easy to setup an extended rapel. Maybe a biit bulky tho

-Sport... Petzl connect. -Trad...Use the rope or sometimes a slyde. -Winter...Rope along with a Grivel daisy chain. -Mountain Rescue... Simond double lanyard/cows tails. -Caving... Length of rope made into cows tails

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

A man of many lanyards! How do you find the Simond?

@doughobbs7706

3 жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills yeah it works OK, much like the petzl you larks foot it through your belay loop. The short side is short tho (that's a good thing IMHO).

@woody40000

3 жыл бұрын

Rope access: all the lanyards, hooks, bells and whistles.

Love the way your lovely dog steals the scene at 3:42 :-)

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

He's good at that!!

I come across an alternative called Xinda Lanyard Adjuster recently, very similar with Petzl Adjust Connect with the difference it has a removable pin which is to be use to remove/replace the original rope (Petzl is not removable). It is best to be use with 9-10 mm static or dynamic rope, and I use it now instead of prusik knot on my backup/third hand autoblock for rappelling, as well as for climbing/work positioning lanyard. You may want to check it out.

I personally use a sterling chain reactor. Very adjustable with multiple loops to clip into different points on the anchor and has the benefit of being able to extend the rappel by putting the belay device in the closest loop.

@acidduk

3 жыл бұрын

I've got the Metolius PAS and as I understand it it's the same as the chain reactor, whe only difference being the Metolius is made from dyneema and the Stirling is made from nylon. The end result is the Stirling is slightly more dynamic. I'm sure that I read some factor-2 100kg tests (which is significantly beyond what a single human could generate), the Chain Reactor survived and the Metolius actually failed, but I can't find the info now. In short, if I was buying again I'd prefer the Stirling over the Metolius for this reason alone. As repeatedly stated, you should never be getting in a situation to fall on them anyway but it seems the Stirling is strictly better than the Metolius. Black Diamond did some interesting tests on these too: eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=qc-lab-personal-anchor-systems-explained

@ColeHennies

3 жыл бұрын

@@acidduk thats a very good point. Dyneema definitely has its drawbacks but it is a lot lighter and more compact. I guess just know the limitations of your equipment and use it how its intended.

@christianchesswas7479

3 жыл бұрын

I agree I personally use the Black Diamond Link Personal Anchor System, which is pretty much the same idea. I love the fact that i can very easily abseil off of it. also for when I teach beginner climbers it makes sense for them. i have tried the Kong slide before but personally found it was a lot of extra work for not a lot of gain plus it felt very bulky on my harness.

@woody40000

3 жыл бұрын

@@acidduk 100kg factor 2 could definitely get put on a lanyard for a bigger person with a bit of kit if they attached below their feet for whatever reason.

@acidduk

3 жыл бұрын

@@woody40000 Sure, but even then a human is a lot more flexible/dynamic that a 100kg steel block. I suspect your hip bone would fail before the PAS :)

I got a Camp Swing recently. that's decent. cheap-ish and similar to the petzl. it may be a little stiff, but i think it might wear in well. only used it once!

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

I was looking at those on the internet, not actually used one, looks v similar to the Petzl!

@Mr96danwright

3 жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills yeah pretty much the same thing. Just a tenner cheaper. They don't look quite as elegant though...

I have a lanyard so this is academic but instead of using a rope with a fig 8 could you just tie off the end your not attached to so it wont run through and then put a clove hitch in so it is adjustable?

Brillaint Videos. Possibly a daft question - Is there any reason why a the rope option with prusik connected to the harness wouldn't be safe? Admittedly it would put the slack at the harness end

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

If I understand what you mean, it sounds safe to me!

I came across an ENSA video where they were testing lanyards, and they found that actually, daisy chains (provided they're used right, and the carabiner isn't only holding on by the stiching) held higher forces than the Metolius personal anchor (which they said was surprisingly weak)? The idea was apparently that the stitched loops, breaking one after the other until the end, provided some amount of shock absorbtion. I found this quite interesting! Though I would need to watch the video again to see if it held more or less than just a plain dyneema sling or a dyneema sling with a knot. Though I suppose that even if the shock absorbtion did something, the potential for not clipping it right would be too high to make up for it?

Great vid! What should be the appropriate length of the rope for the system showed at min. 8:33 where you use the Kong Slyde with an intermediate knot for the rappel device. Thanks!

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I'm afraid I can't remember off the top of my head and mine is in the UK whilst I am in Spain. Best just to have a play. 1.75m rings a bell but don't take that as gospel!

@paulacuna6782

3 жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills Thanks for the response! I am going to try and I will tell you.

Just revisiting this one Jez. One thought, what options do you use if using to safeguard yourself when rigging? Prussik, Traxion or something else? Any top tips for what to avoid/ things you see on things like RCI assessments when candidates are a bit stressed for instance.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Prusik and lanyard is the way forwards I reckon... I often see people moving around "abseil" style with this setup, which isn't ideal, as it's just a back up.

I use a purcell prussik, just a loop of 7mm cord pussiked onto itself, larks footed through my tie in points. very cheap, adjustable, super strong enough!

@mykolajMykolaj

3 жыл бұрын

Yes,its cheapest but it don't work so fast in any awkvard position.And all knots you have dress and set before loading,its waste a time

I used to use a nylon sling as a PAS and tied overhands into it to change the length but one day I accidentally tied the overhand incorrectly and when I weighted it, the biner pulled the knot out and then I went all the way to the end of the sling. That scared the shit out of me and so I bought a Petzl Connect. Funny enough, the Petzl Connect is only a little heavier than my nylon sling, maybe like 20 grams or something. Do I use a PAS all the time? No, I usually clove hitch into the anchor. But I still find them useful safety kit around bolted belays and abseil stations, and I can use it as an abseil extension. Because I abseil down pretty much all my trad climbs, I use it every climb, so it's worth it for me.

Maybe I missed it in the video but if you don't do use a lanyard for multi pitch trad climbs, how do you anchor your self in at the belay station before a rappel?

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

You'd normally end up having to improvise one out of a sling.

Hello Jez, have you ever used a roll n lock for an adjustable lanyard? I think they are a really good piece of kit to have to hand, I have used a length of dynamic rope tied I to my harness the same as you show here but I used a stopper on the krab end and have the roll n lock floating, is there any reason to use double figure of eight over a stopper knoton it's own?

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

I haven't but I've seen similar done, for me it's hard to beat the neatness and simplicity of the Petzl Connect, or Kong Slyde for the budget conscious. Using a barrel knot is pretty popular, just something I'm not used to so I personally prefer the fig 8 but mostly that's down to habit.

I have the Camp swing (similar to the petzl connect adjust). I use 2 when cleaning a sport route. Can you just use one or do you need to be fixed into to points? Thanks

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Personally I'd only use one. Because you're never off belay, you always have some redundancy.

Need the video on the electric skateboard 😃

What's your opinion, for the cheep just a bit of rope, put a clove hitch in the end instead of a figure 8. Less bulk and much more adjustable.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Could be a neat solution, I'd have to give it some more thought!

@acidduk

3 жыл бұрын

With a figure 8 there's no chance of the knot "slipping off the end", whereas with a clove wouldn't there be a danger (if you extended it to the end / with a short very tail) of it running off the end of the rope?

My thoughts on the whole dynamic thing is, that dynamic action of a rope is increased with length. At such a short length it is about as static as spectra or dynema but much bulkier. It may provide some peace of mind but that is all, even petzils quick connect states not to fall on it. There is fall tests of via farittas using standard rope, it doesnt work any better.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

I think the main thing is don't "fall" on any lanyard. As I say in the video, agreeing with what you say above, a 1m ish length of anything isn't going to offer much stretch. It'd be interesting to know if the actual plate part of the connect slips at all? Same with the slyde.

@climbingsiurana5421

3 жыл бұрын

The advantage is that a dynamic lanyard might actually hold a factor 2 fall, while the static options like dynema sling or multichains fail already with a factor 1. On a Via ferrata you can have fall factors up to five so of course a standard single rope will fail there (they are only required to hold factor 2 falls). That is why you need a ferrata set to do them safely.

@brandonbecker8419

3 жыл бұрын

@@climbingsiurana5421 all of the dynamic personal anchor systems o. tbe market say to never use them for more than a factor 1 fall

@brandonbecker8419

3 жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills some slippage could help with a fall perhaps. It would be interesting to see that tested. Maybe how not to highline could do something like that.

@climbingsiurana5421

3 жыл бұрын

@@brandonbecker8419 But they would hold a factor 2 because they are made out of a single rope (Petzl Adjust) which is tested to hold multiple factor 2 falls, right? 😉

For leading in blocks, where one person will be leading at least 3 pitches of the route at a time, would you recommend that building a belay with slings and using lanyards to attach is the best way to do this? As far as I’m aware there is no easy way to build a rope belay for non-alternate leads?

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Block leading is far more efficient with sling / cordlette style belays for sure! I'd still be tempted to clove hitch my rope to the master point though rather that use a lanyard. Rope belays = faff for block leading.

@fraserstephen7493

3 жыл бұрын

JB Mountain Skills that makes sense, clove hitching rather than using a lanyard. Thanks!

I've set up a Kong Slyde tether using some new 9mm and am really impressed with how smooth it slides. I was expecting it to snag and catch but preliminary testing makes me think that will be unlikely. Info sheet says 9 to 10mm can be used, but you've got to go with thinner as it does grab fat rope. Note: apparently the risk from too skinny a rope is the strands can swap position in the slot as they can squeeze past each other. I tested this on my own #slingmountain and couldn't make it happen with the ropes on hand but it certainly looks possible.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

They definitely work more smoothly on a nice new, shiny rope!

@williammancini2097

2 жыл бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills don’t know why I didn’t think of that. Or watch this before I bought one

I've been doing a good bit of research on the subject and I've found that consistently the case against slings is that they are not dynamic. It seems the existence of nylon slings have been wholely ignored. They are dynamic and to my understanding retain strength better than dyneema when knotted. Am I missing something? Or are nylon slings a great option?

@JBMountainSkills

2 жыл бұрын

They're an option for sure. Whilst they are more dynamic, we're only talking a 120cm so the amount of stretch is going to pretty minimal and I'd still advocate being snug on them rather than above them etc. For that reason in the real world I'm not sure they're any more advantageous really.

Just on the sling, larks footing it to the harness (belay loop or threaded), doesn't it create a lot of stress on the larks foot? I wouldn't personally use this, rather thread the sling through, take both ends and tie an overhand in the middle of the sling.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Really good question! Check out the Black Diamond QC stuff for a more full answer, but... in their tests a static load on a girth hitched sling didn't break until 18kn worst case, higher in some configurations, so potentially stronger than some over hand tests I've seen.

@JanSchrewe

3 жыл бұрын

Frankly if you worry about putting so much force on a knoted sling that it breaks (it still holds around 40% of 22 Kn, so around 9 Kn, worst case) you probably should also be very about worried about you breaking and do things very different.

How are slings not rated for shockloads when we build top rope anchors with them? Is it because top rope doesn’t put enough force with small falls while having dynamic rope to stretch in it?

@gimmepowder

3 жыл бұрын

In a nutshell, yes. The dynamic rope, plus you and the belayer to a degree, absorb the force. Same when leading although a nice catch helps.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, as the other reply says, its 'cos there's plenty of stretchy rope in the system doing the shock absorption :)

Hi, Just getting back into some scrambling, could you use a lanyard to clip into an anchor whilst belaying up your partner? Rather than clove hitching in? Cheers

@JBMountainSkills

4 ай бұрын

Yes you could

Quick question. the manufactor says that the kong slide cant be classified as personal protection equipment. So why is it so popular for a lanyard.

@JBMountainSkills

9 ай бұрын

Good question, the price I expect…

can you belay on the Petzl Connect???

Probably look at tree climbers too

What happened at 11:13!? I noticed you and the dog snapped to the left.

@JBMountainSkills

3 жыл бұрын

A bird flew past super close and quick, made us both jump and look at each other!

Kong>Petzel for the fact that you're not in your belay loop. Believe it not I've heard of people blowing there belay loops of from factor one falls about a foot above the anchors. Love the fact you tie in to harness loops.

あなたがアップロードしている動画はとても勉強になり、大変価値のあるものです。 しかし、説明に冗長性がありシンプルでないため、要点が不明瞭です。 ひとつのギアを説明するのに身体に付けたり、外したりを繰り返したりと、何を説明したいのかが不明です。 海外視聴者(私は日本)も多数いらっしゃるはずなので、もっと言葉を選びシンプルな説明だと大変幸せです。 海外視聴者のためにも理解しやすい説明と動作をどうぞ宜しくお願いします。

What would you think would be good to wrap around a tree and be adjustable?