This is awesome to see, thank you for sharing.

engine runs well, with a nice steady beat, doesn't appear to be any leaks, I fill the water to 1/2---3/4 on sight glass, the engine was stood for a while before I bought it, I have noticed that when you open the regulator steam residue will effect boiler in a negative way, i.e. the gas flame will pulse, the burner is I can only describe as what looks like a camping stove head, many thanks vinny

hi John, I'm in the uk, I will get the boiler certified, and also get safety valve checked, if I need to buy either, I will take any parts that need replacing, and physically show them what I need as soon as I can find a supplier/engineer, as I said,im a complete novice, many thanks vinny

hi John, I have managed to get a cast iton grate casting, not been delivered yet, never thought of welding a grate together, its a good idea, don't have a milling machine, will try and clean up the casting with a dremmel with a good cutting bit, im toldthe casting will sit free standing in the ash pan, the safety valve is a bit reluctant to release pressure at 100psi, without a tap with a spanner, the engine was built over a 10year period, and has not been fired for a few year's, if I do have issues with the clack and safety valves, could you recommend a good supplier I could buy these parts from, the boiler and fittings have been tested upto 200psi im told,, again John thank you for all your help, and inspiring video's they are very informative, and helpful to novice like myself, all the very best Vinny

Thanks for taking a look. Yeah totally agree. Virtical boilers are different. Also not quite as efficient as a locomotive boiler. Checkout my traction engine video too

hi vinny, there is not a lot that can be adjusted with the valve timing. the best way to check is to put the crankshaft in outer dead end, if you turn the slides back and forth the valves should not move. do the same with the crankshaft the other dead end, also the valves should not move. try to not remove the cilinderblock from the crankcase, leave it where it is if there are no problems there.

hi Vinny, if the engine is well made it should run at about 1 bar of steam pressure. i have not run it on gas but a wood, or better coal fire generates lots of heat, far more then a gas burner i think. maybe covert it to coal firing?

hi john , im taking your advice and converting to coal fired,waiting for a grate, and im constructing a ash pan, will also remove all the clack valves and safety valves and check them and replace if necessary, have you any advice on timing the engine,im going to remove pistons and get them repacked, I also think it may be over oiling cylinders, as after firing iam getting alot of thick steam oil on cab roof, on my Clayton the movement of the mechanical oiler is applied from the outer part of the fly wheel, looking at yours movement is alot shorter, at around 1/3 of of flywheel diameter, any advice would be very appreciated ,again many thanks Vinny

it will run down to around 1bar, the running pressure as I'm told is around 100 psi, it will reach 100 psi as soon as I start the engine , the engine will run for around 5mins, gradually dropping pressure, that is with a fully charged cannister many thanks vinny

hi John, I have a 2inch clayton very similar to yours, apart from it running on a gas fired boiler, the engine will run, but looses pressure as soon as it starts, I have just bought this engine , do you think this maybe due to the fact it is on gas rather than coal, kind regards vinny

the word "scale model" is missing from the title.

it seems that your lubricater is giving to much oil. but better to much than not enough. you could try to reduce the movement of the pawl wheel of your oil pump, this should give less oil per movement. i hope the builder used a good quality bronze for the clacks and safety, this is vissible whrn you remove the boiler parts. if they snap off you have to make/buy new ones. do you have a milling machine? i milled a grate from a piece of round steel, about 1/4" thick. or you could weld one together.

This is a very useful video for me as I'm currently considering purchasing an identical model. It's a pity you don't show it moving and hauling something.

@johngroenen

4 жыл бұрын

Check my other video's, there are a few of them where i am driving the model.

@amanofmanyparts9120

4 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen Thanks. I found a couple by searching for "clayton steam lorry" as you have so many videos uploaded. As I said on there: There's one not far from me that I'm now going to purchase. I believe that a man who dies with a healthy bank balance and no heirs has missed out on a lot of life. That's not going to be me!

Hi how do you lubricate the excentrics and motion

@johngroenen

Жыл бұрын

First of all, this engine has Joy valvegear, so no excentrics. Secondly, the motion, connecting rods, valve gear mechanism, valve rods are in an oil bath. The enclosed sump is for about 1/4 filled with oil, while running the motion of the rods splashes the oil around inside. The only excentric is on the outside, operating the water feed pump, that one is oiled every hour or so, by hand.

Hi John, i am curious with the comment about the bearing for reversing , can you expand on that please

@johngroenen

3 жыл бұрын

This bearing is called a "one way bearing". In forward rotation the bearing locks up and the chain sprocket rotates forward, driving the rear wheels. In reverse rotation the bearing rotates freely, the crankshaft rotates but the chain sprocket does not rotate. The downside in this setup is that when you drive downhill, of of a ramp, the engine will not give any resistence, no engine braking. In other words, nothing will stop the engine coming down the hill. As the Netherlands are as flat as it is, there is not really a problem. But i am converting the drive with a clutch so the engine can ride forwards and reverse, but also van run stationairy.

@union310

3 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen it's what we call a sprag clutch, the dog clutch idea i agree sounds a good idea. There is a lad in here who has done a nice job of one.

@union310

2 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen did you use iron or copper rivets on the chassis?

@johngroenen

2 жыл бұрын

@@union310 copper rivets.

@union310

2 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen Cheers, no issues stretching going slack after time?

Hello this might be an innocent question, when you need more water while its running, does it automatically fill boiler or do you need to turn on a valve tap, if so where is it located, is it to the left of the blower valve???

@johngroenen

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Mad Mak, The valve you refer to is the injector steam valve, that one is left of the blower valve. At 11:40 when i fill up the firebox, on the left side you see a handwheel on a pole. That is the bypass valve of the engine driven pump. Closing this valve gets the water in the boiler, if opened the water flows back into the tank. The round bent copper pipe you see going in the watertank is the bypass return pipe.

I'd like to take a quaderacylce and make one of these in a bigger scale but lacking boiler and cylinder

100 psi, that is a lot. mine is 84 psi, whichs equals about 6 bar. so you lose all your pressure in about 5 minutes...? that can have several causes: blowback overvthe piston rings leaky valves is your exhaust sound clear? can you hear every beat of the engine under load? but also not enough heat can be your problem.

krista, i cannot help you. in model Engineering most parts are home made, self fabricated. so is this model, all parts are made by myself.

@itsflinkyt2032

7 жыл бұрын

THIS TОOL FOR FREE STEEEEAMMMM MONEY IS THЕ BEST ON ТHE ENTIRE WЕBSTORE!!!>> cclayton undertype steam waaagon bringing it tо lifeeee

Hello John, I am just about to start making this wagon, doing the chassis and trailer all at one time to get the riveting out the way. I also think building the trailer at the same time as the wagon all the main parts like suspension and axles/boxes can all be done at once. I'm curious about your tyres, I don't want to fork out for the wheels, certainly not at the moment, so will be machining them from just Solid blank Ali round, but I'm curious to your tyres, what are they and where did you get them from, they look like some kind of Garden machine tyre?

@johngroenen

6 жыл бұрын

J Cameron , hi thanks for your response. First i had the solid rubber tyres which i bought together with the wheel castings. But the are really hard, and while driving everything was coming loose because of all the vibrations coming from the road/street. Lucky i found a baby Pushcart, or "pram" (Google translate). A childs buggy for kids up to 3-4 years old, this had foam tyres with a "trucky" profile. These work really well, much smoother ride. Taken care when you make the engine, nowhere in the drawings is mentioned how to lock bolts, nuts and pins.

@jcameron2554

6 жыл бұрын

johngroenen that's a speedy response thank you. I'm trying to see how cheaply I can make a Clayton, with bought materials, the castings are bloody dear! Especially the wheels! Mostly all of the Clayton can be made from bar stock of one type or another. I'm currently writing a cutting list for my metal supplier, who after talking with him today, said it would be easy enough for him to fold the chassis sections cut to length from 2mm sheet, so this should speed the build up, as the folded chassis sections are no longer available from AJ Reeves. I may be coming back to you for advice on machining certain components in the coming year or more. 😊 Great idea on the buggy/pram wheels though. I knew they weren't air filled, but didn't have a clue where they were from.

@johngroenen

6 жыл бұрын

J Cameron , I am converting the drive with a intermediate shaft to make it a bit more easy to drive. The gear ratio by the drawings is 1:4, with the intermediate shaft it becomes 1:8, meaning more torque and power to ride on uneven road conditions. I also want to install a dog clutch instead of the 1 way bewaring.

@johngroenen

6 жыл бұрын

J Cameron , I also had my frame and crossmembers made from 2mm sheet and folder them to the correct U shape. Apart from the wheels nog castings are used, everything is build up and silver soldered together where needed. I made some parts twice, like the cilinder block, first time out of cast iron, bad choice..... Therefore are no draincocks so a lot of pitting was happening in the cilinder bores, threw it away, made a new one from brass stock. I would a use reduction Gear on the engine pump. In the drawings it is 1:1, but the engine runs to fast to let the pump run effecient. With a 2:1 reduction the pump runs slower, but more efective. I did not use the clack/bypass combination valve, i made a separate bypass valve and a standard clack in the boiler. I also made the improved sterring mechanism, which was published after the build series in model engineer. My differentiaal gear is made from the gears of 3 small angle grinders. The rear axle does not run in bronze bearings but in needle roller sleeves, to reduce friction.

@jcameron2554

6 жыл бұрын

johngroenen Yes I have seen the twin start thread on the steering box to speed the steering response up. Just needs a way to index at 180°.

hello mr-best, i have followed the drawings and the water pump and lubricater are discribed in them. if you mean the injector, this is a commercial item i bought from a supplier in live steam items.

hi john im building a 2" clayton i need help with sourcing a mechanical lubricator water pump and some other parts can you help me??? regards matt

@thequarryhunslet7110

3 жыл бұрын

Ok look on Ebay

Thanks for the info. Good you don't need the blower then. For my 3. 5 inch loco it won't fire without the blower. Well don't think so. I also use destilled water as tap water can bung up the boiler. Got vids of her on my channel. Check them out

@johngroenen

6 жыл бұрын

Matt Seymour, I saw your locomotive, looks like a nice runner. My way of starting up works only with a vertical boiler. I agree, distilled water is a lot better then plain tap water. I will take a look at your other video's soon. Keep on steaming! John

@mattseymour8637

3 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen thanks for your reply and glad you like my loco. She does run well. Forgot to mention type of coal do you use?

@johngroenen

3 жыл бұрын

@@mattseymour8637 i use antracite nr 4, the small pieces. That doesn't burn but glows with intense heat.

@mattseymour8637

3 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen cool stuff! I prefer the Welsh steam coal as burns bit easier. Plus don't like the smell of anthracite. Is yours straight anthracite?

@johngroenen

3 жыл бұрын

@@mattseymour8637 yes, normal antracite. I tried Welsh steam coal, but i could not get used tot it.

Does it fire OK with no electric blower? What water do you use?

@johngroenen

6 жыл бұрын

Matt Seymour, With the cap removed from the firing chute it works as a chimney. As you can see in this clip i start with filling up the firebox with pieces of charcoal. The i lit a BBQ starter block andere placemat it in the ashpan. The heat will start the charcoal and the firing chute draughts the air up. After about 20 minutes there is a red glowing charcoal fire and the water starts to boil. A draught fan (electric) will speed up everything, but is not neccesary. I use tap water, most of the time. At steam rally's there is treated water available.

@mattseymour8637

3 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen thanks for the advice. I take it you can't get the fire going on a 3.5 inch loco on without an electric blower?

@johngroenen

3 жыл бұрын

@@mattseymour8637 that is correct. Horizontal boilers in my opinion always use an elelctric blower tot start the fire.

@mattseymour8637

3 жыл бұрын

@@johngroenen thought as much

What size is this

@johngroenen

4 жыл бұрын

2 inch to the foot, or 1:6.

Hallo John, hoe hou jij je hand en mechanische waterpomp in topconditie zodat de kleppen(metalen ballen van 4 mm)niet blijven plakken na een rit , groeten uit België .

@johngroenen

5 жыл бұрын

Toon Van Den Broeck , Helaas is dit lastig te voorkomen. Ook ik heb daar last van. Maar wat wel scheelt is om al het water uit de ketel, tank en leidingen te halen. Ik heb er het meeste last van na lange stilstand, bijvoorbeeld na de winter.

@toonvandenbroeck6393

5 жыл бұрын

Er hebben mij personen verteld na elke rit een beetje WD40 in de pompen te doen , zou dat een goed idee zijn denk je?

@johngroenen

5 жыл бұрын

Toon Van Den Broeck , WD40 is een "smeermiddel", en het laatste wat we willen is iets van olie in de ketel. Liever met wat azijn de zaak doorspoelen, want de kalk in het water zorgt er voor dat de kogels vast plakken op hun zittingen. Heeft u 4mm kogels? Ik heb 5,5mm kogels in de pomp, terugslagkleppen en veiligheidskleppen.

@toonvandenbroeck6393

5 жыл бұрын

johngroenen He John, ja ik weet dat het olie is .Maar ik heb de 2 pompen los gemaakt(in en uitgang en wat olie in gedaan ) Dan een nachtje laten inwerken en uitgeblazen . De ballen waren vrij gekomen en er blijft een fijn laagje hangen zodat de ballen niet meer blijven kleven(hoop ik)Vroegen waren de Ballen 4 mm maar nu zijn ze ook ongeveer 5,5 mm of zelfs 6 mm. Nee, zeker geen olie in de ketel laten komen , dat is als water en vuur .

@toonvandenbroeck6393

5 жыл бұрын

IK zal dit na elke rit herhalen in de hoop altijd een goed resultaat te hebben , en zo zoeken we steeds naar betere oplossingen .

Also it the pistons in a bath of oil

@johngroenen

7 жыл бұрын

Ben Tregear, not the Pistons, the crankshaft has An oil sump which lubricates the running parts of the valve gear and connecting rods.

@bentregear3713

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks I was not sure if it was in a bath of oil like a sentinel

@johngroenen

7 жыл бұрын

Ben Tregear, steam Pistons never run in an oilbath. the crankcase is enclosed and filled with oil, the connecting rods, valve gear and feedpump drive are running in an oil bath. the steam pistons are driven by the steam, and are lubricated by the mechanical lubricator.

@bentregear3713

7 жыл бұрын

johngroenen oh ok

@bentregear3713

7 жыл бұрын

johngroenen thanks

What is the size of the chain Thanks ben

@johngroenen

7 жыл бұрын

Ben Tregear , i used a 8mm chain.

@bentregear3713

7 жыл бұрын

johngroenen thanks

are you living in the UK, or the USA? i can not not see from which country you are. safety is not for sale, it isca special custom to the model one. clacks are relative easy to buy, bu you will have to know which screw thread is used. i made every part by myself, so if a part is defect i have to make a new one. i am from the Netherlands , europe for your information. i see you will have to drop the ashpan to remove the fire... this is not as designed, original the grate is mounted on a hinge to the boiler.

@SFtruckerWolf

7 жыл бұрын

Behind is the registration plate from Nederlands.