I was playing around with this just yesterday in my living room. One method I had seen talked about was using a clove hitch on a carabiner to redirect the load to the belay loop rather than the coil tie off. I don't like that for glacier rescue as it means I need another progress capture or prussik to transfer the load to in case of a fall. The most logical systems for me are glacier traverse with no climbing objective-> clip to a bight loop, coils in an accessible bag in the pack. Glacier traverse with an alpine objective -> tie in to end, coils tied off on a bight clipped to locking carabiner and belay loop.

@ShortGuysBetaWorks

4 ай бұрын

Those tend to be my go-to systems, as well.

There are a vast number of uses for a prusiks and a good number of them are for use in crevasse rescue. Even if they are no longer the primary tool for progress capture they are often still used as personal anchors, in rope rappelling, and rope ascending. It sounded like you we suggesting that, prusiks don’t really have a place on a glacier, unless you could specify them in your system and are clutter that should be avoided otherwise. I’m not sure this is what you intended but it certainly came off that way. If that is what you meant, I will respectfully disagree. There are simply too many standard uses and emergency uses for a prusik that it is in any kit that I have when I am using ropes. At least one, but usually in reality, I will keep a second one on the same carabiner as the first. It’s just one carabiner. It lives with the ATC and double length sling on one side with the Crevasse gear on the other.

@ShortGuysBetaWorks

4 ай бұрын

Yeah, not saying don't bring them, saying don't pre-rig them to the rope. Here's a good discussion of the changing attitudes: www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/you-dont-need-those-dedicated-prusik-loops