Chevy/GMC Truck Steering Shaft and Steering Bearing Replacement (GMT-800) - Detailed
Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары
You are watching me replace the steering shaft and steering bearing on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe. This fixes clunky steering typical on full-size GM trucks and SUVs built on the GMT-800 platform.
This video is for reference/educational purposes only. If you attempt this yourself make sure you know what you are doing. making a mistake here could cause you to get into an accident!
The part number for the parts I used on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe are below. part numbers may vary depending on your vehicle so make sure you verify before you order parts!
If you decide to order these parts from amazon please consider supporting my channel by using the links below:
GM Steering Shaft (19153614)
amzn.to/2Yfphsy
Dorman Steering Bearing (905-512 )
amzn.to/2LtFUPG
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/sevenfort...
My Wife's Art Website: laurelwoodstudio.com/
#chevyTruck #clunkySteering #looseSteering
Пікірлер: 238
Once you connect the intermediate shaft to the steering wheel and the steering box, put in the two bolts and then turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to expose the threaded end of the bolt under the steering wheel. Then you can use a ratchet to tighten the nut under the steering column.
I learned something today, thank you. And oh yah this is for educational purposes only I didn’t forget!
Very well explained and worked through. I need to do this on my truck and this helps greatly.
GM had a recall in those in 02 or 03. They just packed them with heavy grease instead of replacing it . Good video. thanks.
If you want to make this job as painless as possible, remove the driver's seat (two bolts, two nuts, one conenctor), and then remove the accelerator pedal (2 - 12MM and 3 10MM, one connector). This gives you all the room you need to remove the old steering column bearing and install a new one. Lay a blanket down over where the seat goes for extra comfort.
Perfectly laid out video explaining how to replace these parts! The Drive By Wire trucks will need the pedal mounting bracket removed to get the shaft out. It's just 5, 10mm headed bolts and once out of the way it makes quick work of getting the shaft out. This job was
Thanks for the video, very detailed and professional. I changed the bearing in my 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe after watching the video and the clocking sound is gone, thanks .
Thanks for the video. Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
This is a great video I'm going to replace my intermediate steering shaft in my 2000 GMC Savana van 3500 I've done plenty intermediate shafts but this was well video was will explain and give me ideas on how I can take care of my repair a quicker way thanks again
Nice work,and explained step by step thanks ,would be doing the same job on my 04 yukon this week
Great video, definitely my symptoms. Your camera angles and views are helpful. It looks easy enough to do at home, thanks!
Got to do this myself. Thank you for showing some difficulty that can make you cus. Great video.👍👍👍👍😄
Very helpful, thank you. Best video on the subject I’ve found.
Thanks! Excellent Video! Took Me An Hour To change mine all thanks to your video!!!!
Great directions. Performed this job on a 2006 Silverado. The only thing is that I could not get the new sleave with the bearings on so I put the new bearings into the old sleeve and it slipped on perfectly. The clunk is gone. thanks great video
Not an easy job. This video helped me tremendously. Very much appreciated!
Thanks! Your video made this simple. I used a 1" closed end wrench as Gary Moore had suggested to seat the bearing, that also worked amazing! Thanks to you both.
Very helpful video man. I sprayed the crap out of that shaft with WD40 and the bearing was MUCH easier to put in
watched this video today....great info. I going to be taking my seat out for other reasons and do the bearing then. Just have to figure out a way to hold the steering wheel with no seat belt!! Great video thanks!
Unless the music was intended to cover up any swearing, you can do without it. Otherwise, you have the best video on KZread regarding this sterring problem. Very in detail. Now I'm ready to tackle mine. Thanks a bunch!!
Best video on replacing these parts. I just changed my steering wheel bearing and the shaft. Everything went in like butter. For the steering wheel bearing I lubed the hell out of it with silicone paste commonly used to lube o rings. Went in easy, though I still wrestled it for about 10 mins. After that was installed, I then lubed the female portion of the bottom shaft with red grease I use on my tractor and the new intermediate shaft went in even easier. II did have my front seat taken off and gas pedal unscrewed and out of the way on my 2004 Silverado 1500. This made things a whole lot easier. Overall, i spent about 20 mins not counting the time it took me to remove the front seat. Thanks for an awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
You are the Man and thanks for all the info. Enjoy your time off😀😀
Much appreciated for the vid for my 03 Chevrolet Suburban.
Need to do this on my 04 Yukon Denali as well, thanks for the video!
Well done video, those are hard camera angles. I see a lot of people replace the shaft and the bearing. For me, I did just the bearing only and it took care of it for me. No more CLUNK! :-)
Thanks for the information, I already learned a few tricks to make this job a lot easier by watching your video
Thanks for the video. Best one I found so far.
excellent narration . explained very good !
I wanted to say thank you. I just bought 04 2500HD it has this exact problem 197436 miles. Good video
Did mine on my 99 gmc Sierra what a difference. No more clunking, quite as could be...So happy with results..
@marsuce3141
Жыл бұрын
How
Good instruction video. Hope that driver's seat gets repaired ✌😀
Thank you so much for your skilled explanation and filming.
@SevenFortyOne
2 жыл бұрын
Glad this helped!
Thanks brother best video on here by far!!
Thank u so much for the vid just did mine on my 05 Tahoe it had the Stabilitrak steering wheel sensor right behind the green piece so I just kind of pryed it off with the bearing also and then when I put on the new bearing I cracked it a little bit so hopefully it doesn't make a big problem later on but all is well now steering is tight thanks again for the great video tutorial
I’m about to do this on my 04 Yukon XL. This has been the best DIY video I’ve seen for this. If you still own this vehicle is the clunk still gone.
@SevenFortyOne
Жыл бұрын
I sold it 2 years ago but upto that point it was quiet
Thanks for this vid very detailed
I fixed my rattling noise with a zip tie. I have the original white plastic part. It was rattling inside the metal tube so I zip tied it to the bracket right next to it. The constant tension stopped the noise!
I just ordered it. Thanks! I was pissed after I changed the steering gear box and still had play. Hopefully this fixes it!
@aaronstrickland956
5 жыл бұрын
Riddle me this... Batman. Did it fix your play in the steering wheel that’s my problem people kept sayin it’s the gear box but I don’t think it is
@ZBrink11
4 жыл бұрын
Did it remove your play??
Great video, well done! Still can’t figure out how u got in there with the camera! 👍😎
I wish there was a video on this for a 93. Great video@
@SevenFortyOne
5 жыл бұрын
Should be pretty similar I would think
If your working on a duramax, take the inner plastic wheel well out and it’ll expose the steering shaft from the side. The plumbing for the turbo and stuff are in the way if you try tackling it from above.
Yup, that's the noise.. thanks for the video amigo
@samho9318
4 жыл бұрын
Hehehe, UTUBE definitely save us some money and gain more experience as well. 🤗
I found that putting the new carrier bearing under a light bulb for 20 minutes made installation easier.
FYI, If you align the steering wheel turned 90 from straight to begin with, so that the bolts at the upper and lower connections are accessible vertically, then hold it there firmly with your seat belt, you don't have to fuss with a wrench and can remove / replace the bolts more easily using a ratchet and socket.
Amazing video thank you
Very informative. Thanks!
Great vidio Steve really!! Now its time for me to get it done.
@SevenFortyOne
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Bill! As you saw, its not too bad of a job to tackle.
some parts diagrams show that special bolt (with the sidewall to prevent turning) as a regular bolt. Other show the nut having that sidewall on it. Yet others, like mine, show a regular bolt and regular nut. So odd. Great video, thanx
U rock, wish I'd run across this video many dollars ago.
I'm definitely going to try this to my 03 avalanche.
@enriquemontemayor6937
4 жыл бұрын
The Little SJ's x
Excellent, detailed video !
@ruthwicklund937
6 жыл бұрын
Rick Sweet 2&
Thanks for the overview. However, you made this repair more complicated than necessary. Tip: turn the wheel to where both the fasteners are easily accessed, loosen until finger tight, and then turn the wheel straight and lock in place. No need to wrestle with obstructions on initial fastener loosening. I was able to do complete repair in half hour.
For those with Duramax trucks there is a boost pipe that makes it tougher from under the hood. Mine is lifted and I pulled out the fender well and access was SILLY easy
@speedstuffllc302
5 жыл бұрын
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156965056287974&set=pcb.2383878388565410&type=3&theater&ifg=1
@speedstuffllc302
5 жыл бұрын
hopefully pic link works for ya....
Yo. Thanks for making this vid. I did this repair last night and it was easy after watching you. Undo the connection in the engine compartment first. Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove the nut in the passenger compartment.
While installing the new bearing, if you put a long bolt thru the steering shaft hole that holds the intermediate shaft in place you can pry against that and the bearing will slide right into place.
@SevenFortyOne
5 жыл бұрын
Great tip! Thanks!
Don't forget to unplug your battery and leave it for 15 minutes before you work on this part, You are Working really close to the airbag.
Nice job!
First of all thank you very much for your video but one question I have is could you not reposition the steering wheel so the shaft nut under the dash would be easier accessible?
Oh yes I also used a 15/16 open end wrench to kind of hammer it on had to go buy one of those at AutoZone
wow gj not breaking the new bearing lol. i feel your pain with that god dang thing. much cursing was had when i had to get the new one back in
@extorter
6 жыл бұрын
i just ordered a new bearing and intermediate shaft, as i didn't replace the shaft when i replaced the bearing last year. wish me luck for round 2 lol
@extorter
6 жыл бұрын
success, truck drives a hell of alot better. bearing wasnt such a pain in the ass this time. took about 15-20 min of swearing and i ended up cracking the plastic a tiny bit.
@camofpvreviews4985
5 жыл бұрын
yeah I felt like selling it when i was installing that bearing . lol
Great video.
Great job man.
@SevenFortyOne
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
*First Thing* to do when working underneath the dash is fold a strip of Gorilla Tape over the razor sharp edges on any brackets you have to work up against!!! Thanks For The Video!
My new shaft would not fit and my new steering bearing would not fit. I ended up honing the shaft at both ends to a glass finish(I have a knife sharpening business which helped) and even then it took great effort to get it on. The bearing would not go on at all, after an hour I put the old one back on to get the truck running. This job was on a 2007 Silverado Classic, Not much room under the dash.
Awsome. Good info
ThankYou!😁
Great video
Great video...!
Just a note, the shaft you removed is actually the upgraded Borgeson (sp?). Blue bushing/bearing is the OEM. So someone did the service you did earlier and used the upgraded steering shaft but some no-name bearing. So you upgraded the bearing and downgraded the steering shaft (but the U-joint on the steering shaft looks 100% the same on upgraded and new). BTW, your video saved me easily an hour of struggling to get it all apart. Thank you for posting.
@GR-uk5ou
3 жыл бұрын
so the issue is with the bearing and no the shaft?
@hmata3
2 жыл бұрын
@@GR-uk5ou The issue is with the shaft. When he does a side by side comparison, the old shaft has a tube isolator whereas the new shady is a solid u-joint (no isolation). He explains how there's some play when he rotates only the shaft. This means that the rubber isolation has degraded and so now you have that loose steering feel. Isolators are added to the steering system to reduce the road bumpiness feedback felt by the driver.
@hmata3
2 жыл бұрын
The bearing/ plastic bushing didn't look broken but it's still a good idea to replace it. When that breaks, you'll feel chucking on the steering column end.
I just watched your video and I congratulate you it is what I was looking for. I have a question the nut by the bearing is torque as the one on the lower side at 35 ft-lb? thanks a lot for your really good explanation on this project. I hope I get a respond.
@SevenFortyOne
3 жыл бұрын
You'll have to check a factory service manual for the correct torque, i don't know what it should be
Great Great tutorial Sir and music was awesome and in time with your style
Did it my self. Thanks
Thanks so much.
What could cause your steering wheel to be really loose and have a lot of play in it or it will cause it to move all the way up and all the way down all the way to the left and all the way to the right?????
Two things I feel would be helpful if you have someone to lend you a hand. Instead of placing the steering wheel in the centered position when removing the bolt and nut under the dash, turn the wheel 90 degrees. this lets you access the nut using a socket wrench for both removal and install. It also makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall the nut. Remove the three nuts that hold the upper steering shaft boot and remove the boot and the shaft through the engine compartment. This gives you easy access to the bearing assembly when attempting to reinstall it. Once you slide the assembly in as far as possible by hand, use a 18" piece of 1/2" wood doweling and a rubber hammer to tape the bearing assembly in. One person holds the dowel and does the tapping while the other holds the assembly in its correct position and moves the dowel around the housing between taps.
@billyba3043
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
Nice work buddy. How long did this job take you? I have some slop in the steering on my 02 Tahoe 190K miles and recently changed my pitman and Idler arms, of course by referencing your video, it seemed to help a little. My next thing is going to be changing the inner and outer tie rods, if this does not get rid of the slop. This job, steering shaft and bushing, will be next on the list. Sure appreciate all the videos.
@SevenFortyOne
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks Bud - I appreciate the support and kind words! This job only took 30 to 45 minutes (not counting the extra time due to setting up the camera and such). Good luck with your tahoe!
My van have the same issues my question is if that part can cause to my stirring weel clock my tired to the left and how much I should be get it fixed
Thanks
Before you do anything, take cover off top of steering column, where the red flasher button is, and then start the truck and turn the wheel until you see a T-25 torx head screw. Probably loose? Turn wheel other direction until you see another T-25 torx head screw. Mine were just about to fall out. It’s the tilt steering joint. Good luck.
The 15 on mine under the dash TIGHT AF ! dnt wanna damage anything trying to turn it
Good work 👌👍
@SevenFortyOne
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
thank you for the video, can you tell me once these parts are replaced does it fail again? also how can you tell it has been replaced ? thanks in advance,
@SevenFortyOne
2 жыл бұрын
Mine didn't fail again but results may vary...I'm not sure how to tell if these have been replaced but if the parts are worn things will be loose and may make clunking noises
Is one of the problems has to do with the streering wheel not locking???
Good video.I used a large wrench nut and a hammer, to get the bearing from the engine bay into the steering shaft, but you need a friend to hold the bearing from inside.
Thank you
Did you have adjustable brake and gas pedals? Great video thank you.
@SevenFortyOne
5 жыл бұрын
No, they are fixed pedals
After an hour of trying to put the Dorman piece in, I couldn't get it the last 3/4 inch. So I came up with a plan to use a deep socket (30mm) as a ram to press it on the rest of the way. I didn't need to use a hammer or anything else, just tap the part with the socket. If you do this, use a socket large enough that if is putting force on the outer rim of NEAR the bearing and not the bearing itself. Had it installed in a couple minutes.
Is it really necessary to torque it ? I don’t have one of those big ass torque wrenches so what could I do
GMC Sierra pickup when I make a Left turn . and try to straighten out steering slips . and almost went on to I'm coming traffic ? Any ideas thanks
2005 gmc sierra has metal under cab,,can you take it out by eng bay side?
Should have loosened the inside bolt first with the nut facing down. Leaving the bolt intact. Then straighten out the wheel and loosen the outside bolt. That way you can use a ratchet and help prevent you from cutting yourself.
good video
THANK YOU SevenFortyOne!!!!. I Have a Lifted 2006 LT 4X4 Cloth Seats Suburban for 6 Months and need this repair and some others too. Was 115.000 Miles on it. SOME REPAIRS WERE DONE. on may 2017 ( UPPER and LOWER ball joins ) ( Front and Rear Brakes Pads and Rotors Disc. ) ( Front Sway Bar Links.) (AC Belt Tensioner and belt ) ( SERPENTINE MOTOR BELT ) BELT TENSIONER PULLEY) ( IDLER PULLEY ) After the front work was done, I started hearing a noise. And at low speed the traction active letter ALERT come on it and the motor is not accelerate. I have to take my foot off the pedal and then accelerate again for the Traction Active letter turn off and for the motor to run normal. Not sure why this happens. please help me with this problem. THANK YOU AGAIN.
@SevenFortyOne
7 жыл бұрын
I'm new to these trucks so I'm not sure what would cause your problem. You could try going to the tahoe-yukon forum and ask for help there.
Nice vid . Helped me plenty . One question . Shouldnt the male intermediate shaft fit tight into the female lower ? Mine damn near fell apart after I took the bolt out . When I put the new Dorman into the old lower shaft it had lots of slop . Being a machinist I wouldnt think this is a good thing . I may have let it go too long and wore both pieces out . Think I need a lower shaft too ?
@SevenFortyOne
6 жыл бұрын
Yeah - something isn't right. Either you have the wrong intermediate shaft or the end of the lower shaft is somehow worn out. Mine was a pretty tight fit when it came out and when it went back together. Not so tight that it was overly hard to get apart but tight enough so that there was resistance.
@SevenFortyOne
6 жыл бұрын
you can see what mine looks like at 15:50 - I even greased it to make things easier to slip together.
So if I have a little bit of strong wheel play on my f150 I should replace the steering shaft to tighten it up?? Would that help?
@SevenFortyOne
5 жыл бұрын
I'm not sure how the Ford's are set up...you should check and see if you can tell if there is play in there. You might have something else wrong...
Just watched your video. Great Job. i may have to do this also on my 02 Burban. I dont know if it has anything to do with the steering but do you think the front shocks could add to that loose feeling while driving? While on the highway, I get that ice skating feel as if the truck tries to float on way or the other. i dare not take my hand off the wheel for fear it may just quickly turn. Sometimes I can feel it thru the steering wheel and hear that loose clunking noise. Dont mean to take up your time with alot of reading in this comment but I'd rather fix this problem(s) than have to pay for a new 75,000$ Suburban lol
@SevenFortyOne
6 жыл бұрын
If you look through my channel you'll find that I've also made videos about replacing the Pittman arm, idler arm and tie rod ends. Doing all of that and replacing the steering shaft as shown in this vid along with making a slight adjustment to the steering box helped quite a a bit but mine still feels a little floaty on the highway. Like you said, I think replacing the shocks is probably the next thing I will do. I also know that my control arm bushing are worn and I suppose that could be contributing to the floatiness as well but that is a big job so I think I'm going to live with the bad bushings for now. Like you said, the new Tahoe/Burb costs WAYYYY too much so sinking a little time and money in the older ones like we have makes good sense and it well worth it as long as you don't have a ton of rust to deal with. Good Luck!
Could these shafts also be the cause to having loose steering to the left but feeling tight on right turns?
@SevenFortyOne
3 жыл бұрын
Maybe....but you may have other problems too
If you don't torque the bolts can it cause steering wheel play? I replaced the bearing, upper and lower shaft but didn't torque them and I've got steering wheel play.
@SevenFortyOne
3 жыл бұрын
Your play is probably something else. If 5he bolts are tight then the shaft shouldn't have play in it. Check your steering box and ball joints
you have a lot of room under the dash. On my silverado the gas pedal makes it very difficult to work down there. You'd think they would be the same