Was expecting full pay to win results but this was super solid advice. Nice job man!

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Thank you Matt 🙏

As a v11 boulder there is routes I can’t do without specific shoes. Good luck comp climbing without dragos or climbing hard sport routes without solotions

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

While I can't climb near V11, I can imagine that's the case. I mean, I've seen a ton of videos of elite climbers with two different climbing shoes on their feet for a route.

@TeamFortressTwoGaming

7 ай бұрын

sounds like a beta issue if you can only climb something in certain shoes, not saying certain shoes wont perform better or worse than others on specific climbs but if its literally a single shoe you can do it in then it sounds like you are lacking in some aspect for that grade

Love the review of both options. Honestly so helpful and informative. Really like your videos that cater to everyday users on a budget.

@Natemitka

6 ай бұрын

Thanks Nikki!!!!

Love to see it!! Solid competition.

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Thanks Kelsey!!!!!!!

Nice video. Testarossas are meant for steep sport climbing, so I wouldn't expect them to perform super well on weird toehooks cos they don't have that much rubber on the top of the foot. I just got a pair of scarpa boostics and the only style that they work well in is steep climbing on small footholds. On any other terrain I wouldn't wear them cos they are really uncomfortable, and often times comfort allows one to push harder when small footholds are not the limiting factor.

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Yeah, I probably should have picked a shoe with more toe rubber on that V3!

Love to see a similar video with stiff rubber vs soft!

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Thats a great idea!

I got some testarossa's about a month ago but they are just uncomfortable, is anyone else experiencing this?

I’m not sure only going up to v5 will test this well without looking for specific techy boulders.

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

I totally agree. I think the boulders I climbed were really well suited for the momentum. If they were a few notches more difficult, I bet the Testarosas would have clearly won, but V5 is my limit!

@andrewhunter6536

7 ай бұрын

@@Natemitka ah ok fair enough. I think on really technical slabs there can be a difference at lower grades too. Tbh I don’t know when the holds are small enough or bad enough to really notice since it’s always tempting to place that boundary at ones current strength level. And pre-emptively I will say I know a pro climber would flash my project in any shoe but that isn’t a counter example to shoes being important

Basic shoes can take you really far. I've climbed as hard as v9 in mad Rock remoras, but there's best certain climbs where a specific shoe design just comes in clutch. Heel toe cams, toe hooks etcetera

@Ian_climbs

7 ай бұрын

Ok but the remoras are so good lol. I still love mine even tho they got a hole in em

The cost difference between a proprietary sole in the US and vibram sole from the EU is rather significant even for highly specialized shoes. Further, the highly specialized shoes are highly specialized, and for climbing this comes to foot position and movement around a crux, and making this more consistent. Hard to test in an accessible way, but good effort.

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Thank you! And agree, the rubber here makes a huge difference

I don’t think that’s relevant for indoor climbing as holds are for most part better, but good climbing shoes definitely make a huge different outdoor

@Natemitka

4 ай бұрын

Totally, I recently did a review of the best beginner climbing shoes and the discrepancy with indoor and outdoor performance was huge.

I’ve used testarossa for 20 years and only use them on overhanging sports. I don’t even use them to boulder. I don’t find them beneficial unless I’m mostly applying the weight to my toes rather than my entire body weight applying that weight to my toes. They’re not designed even for vertical ascent, just aggressive overhanging steepness. I’ve had 3 pairs in 20 years and never paid over £90/$115.

What size do you wear for Testarossa? I just bought it online and waiting for shipment. Hope the shoes will fit on my feet and I don't get wrong for size

@Natemitka

23 сағат бұрын

I have the Testarossa in 41.5. Which is odd they felt so tight because I have the Futura as well in 41.5 and those are tight but fit correctly.

@ghafaraharashta4581

21 сағат бұрын

@@Natemitka What size your street shoe anyway?

@Natemitka

19 сағат бұрын

@@ghafaraharashta4581 10.5 in America!

@ghafaraharashta4581

12 сағат бұрын

@@Natemitka so you do 3 sizes down. Nice review btw, keep it going!

@Natemitka

12 сағат бұрын

@@ghafaraharashta4581 Thanks man!

Yes, it's about skills and strength, not equipment.

i think for you foot placement you can train to dont reajust your foot to mutch

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

Definitely need to work on that!

3:15 Deal Jams is V1 not V2

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

That’s my bad! I saw it was V1.5 on Mountain Project. I really wanted to show that route in the video, because it really demonstrated the difference in shoes between the BDs and the La Sportivas!

Also, way better high end shoes than the testies.

I climb mainly in the BD momentums; I have solutions and TCs for when I'm really dialing in. I've redpointed 5.12 and bouldering V6 outside, so I'm by no means a crusher and lean more average Joe. That said, I think in general BD Momentums are super good enough- and like he said, they're also very comfortable. Of course, the top end shoes have their strengths, but I haven't really found that there are problems I can't do because I'm wearing one or the other. He touches on this idea that sometimes the higher end shoe offers more support on an edge, and he has more time to hang out and think, which is obviously helpful when it comes to sending. On the other hand, with better footwork you can get around the need for support. Thats why I use rentals or BD momentums/other beaters in the gym or for the bulk of my climbing outside before I prepare for a send go. I think its good practice for better footwork- and it saves the rubber on my pricier shoes for when I feel I really need that little difference. I think new climbers shouldnt feel compelled to buy the more expensive shoe to up their game, its only going to provide marginal gains (which definitely can be the difference, but I think even at the level I'm at there's usually something else that can be improved like fitness or beta before we blame the shoes) and it may cover gaps in your footwork (how you distributing pressure while smearing or your precision for edging ect) In other sports, like swimming, there is this idea that you dont actually wear your racing suit until race day. You wear practice gear, in swim they even have a drag suit to make things worse/harder- which i think is in the same vein of what I'm saying here: Tl;dr: unless you're towards the higher end of climbing, you dont need to spring for really expensive shoes. Cheaper shoes can be just as well and comfier (I'll definitely vouch for momentums!) - Especially if you almost exclusively climb in doors, but even outdoors theyre not crucial. But for sure, they will definitely help- and I have certainly reached for them when I feel I need them! Im ngl sometimed the subtle physical (and perhaps mental) support can make all the difference for a send, or at least an easier one. Imo, one should have the best of both worlds. A cheap comfy beater shoe to put miles on, and a performance shoe for when we wanna let our hair down!

Don’t need real shoes until you get past v6, not a realistic comparison if your only bonking around on moderates.

testarossas don't cost that much. at least not in europe...

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

They cost that much in the U.S. when they came out, and it looks like on the La Sportiva US website its still $219!

@schonni8390

7 ай бұрын

@@Natemitka sorry for you haha, that sucks

Next do barefoot vs flip flops

@Natemitka

6 ай бұрын

Barefoot is definitely rising in popularity. Maybe there's a video there...

What about indoor rock wall climbing

@Natemitka

7 ай бұрын

That’s a great point. Honestly, I think the point made in the video is the same indoors. But I would bet you notice the rubber quality a lot more in indoor climbing!

@armandoestrada-rodriguez7418

7 ай бұрын

IMO the shoes don't make much of a difference inside. I'd stick to basic shoes if I was climbing exclusively indoors, I climb a lot outside and even then I mainly use the momentums which are intro level shoes (tbf I do own the higher ends tho! I just refrain from using them mostly) In this video he shows himself using feet that are like mm small, its my experience that foot chips in the gym are usually at least twice as big as some of the feet we saw here. Im of the belief that we mostly don't need that kind of precision in the gym, and if we can't do something there is more than likely something technical or physical we can improve before we look at the shoes. There are definitely routes indoors that might benefit from a good heel on a shoe, a steep boulder or sport route. But I would say you can get that done in a basic shoe as well, its just that the expensive ones will offer more support wherever the strength of their design is (solutions edging and heels, tc pros smears and jams). every shoe has something, but I like basic shoes for myself- and I think theyre good for people who just climb in gyms or those just starting- cause they can do a little bit of everything normally. You can get pretty far in some basic shoes especially in the gym, I've sent some gym "v8"s and 7s in my momentums. Tldr: unless you really want to, you dont have to break the bank for your indoor rock climbing shoes. The most affordable shoes will be just as well, just be sure to grt them from brands that make climbing gear like BD or sportiva and you should be fine with even the cheapest model!

@markgreco1962

7 ай бұрын

@@armandoestrada-rodriguez7418 thanks ! Thoughtful reply