So thought i could tackle a cd4e rebuild. I had a broken direct shell, clutches and everything else looked good so didnt replace drum, 05 escape only had 1st and 2nd. I replaced solenoid pack, shell, frictions, steels, bushings, bearing, and did transgo shift kit. Got it all back together and it only has reverse and manual 2nd gear. When in drive it slightly creeps backwards, and idea as to were i made a mistake?

@CurmudgeonTransmission

3 жыл бұрын

Sounds like a bad sprag or it is in backwards. Did you take the forward sprag apart? No manual 1st?

@randyusmc

3 жыл бұрын

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I didn't take the sprag apart, no manual 1. All I have is reverse and manual 2nd.

@CurmudgeonTransmission

3 жыл бұрын

Did you make sure it turns one way and locks the other? If you unplug the transmission and put it in drive will it engage? I have not put a Transgo kit in in forever. He may have changed what he has you do, do you still have the instructions?

@randyusmc

3 жыл бұрын

Yes I checked the sprag and it worked properly, I kept the shift instructions. And il have to try unplugging the transmission after work. I just find it strange that I only have manual 2nd but no 1st. I know 2, 4 is applied by the band, what control 1, and 3?

@CurmudgeonTransmission

3 жыл бұрын

1st is the forwards and both sprags, 3rd is directs, forwards and forward sprag. When you unplug it it should be in 3rd, so it will help with the diagnosis. Are you on Instagram?

I have a 1995 Ford Contour with a CD4E that is giving me trouble. Reverse and 1st and 2nd work fine , but 3rd goes to hunting,and the engine just revs. Pull it 2nd and it pulls fine. I replaced the band, old one looked fine, and the updated pump plate. Same issue. I understand their is a hub that a weld can crack and cause internal pressure lose. Also valves sticking in the valve body. This is my around town car. I would like to keep it going. I replaced the whole transmission and it now has about 100k on it. I had the valve body kit put in it then and added a cooler at that time too. I am just looking for some ideas. My father in law purchased this car brand new. I am trying to keep it going in his memory. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

@CurmudgeonTransmission

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the Forward/Coast/Direct Clutch drum is horrible about cracking. So much so I would replace it on every rebuild wether you suspect it is bad or not. There are 2 different drums 4cyl. F5RZ-7G120-A, 6cyl. F4RZ-7G120-A. If you buy it aftermarket DO NOT buy the Chinese made drum, it will break, soon. If you buy it from WIT or Transtar just tell them you want the good one, not the crappy one and they will know exactly what you are talking about. Don't know why they are even offering the other one still.

@pltmann

2 жыл бұрын

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Do you think this is my problem? It started intermittent and then would come out of it, but now it has no pull in third. I've seen people say a valve in the valve body can stick too.I know you work on them all the time and probably have a good idea by symptoms.

@CurmudgeonTransmission

2 жыл бұрын

It is possible. Did you check those clutches in there when you had it apart? Usually one or two sets of clutches are extremely burnt in that drum when it happens. It is either that drum or in the valve body/solenoid area.

@pltmann

2 жыл бұрын

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I only lowered the transmission and pulled the pump. Didn't take the transmission apart. When it goes to 3rd, it pulls slightly but if you give it throttle engine revs. Really don't want to take it out because one of the cross member mounting bolts will not come out. Would have to cut it . I see they have factory testers on ebay. Would that pinpoint my problem?

@CurmudgeonTransmission

2 жыл бұрын

@@pltmann You can get to that drum after pulling the pump. You have to be careful and not let the shell move rearward as a bearing will move out of place. You can eventually get it back in place but it is a pain, as you cannot get to it and you just have to keep moving stuff around until it moves back into place. Once you remove the pump the assembly with the reverse drum up to the sprag assembly will come out. Pull the snap ring at the reverse drum and the drum will come out. When you go to assemble it back in the transmission it is easier to remove the parts up to that large shell that you don't want to move and stack them on the drum assembly and install it all together. Once you get the pump bolted down. Use a screwdriver in the speed sensor hole and make sure you can turn the hub. If you can't then that bearing probably fell out of place or you didn't get everything stacked up properly.