Breakdown: Adam Ondra's Insane Efficiency

Ойын-сауық

Re-uploaded (again) because of a copyright strike. Adam Ondra is the best lead climber in the world by a massive margin, and he's got a real shot at winning the Tokyo 2021 Olympics. In this video, I review one of the many small things that Ondra does that help him be so dominant.
Check out Sarah's channel Send Edition here: • 4 Easy Ways To Improve...
Thumbnail Photo by Vladek Zumr

Пікірлер: 28

  • @courtclimbs
    @courtclimbs3 жыл бұрын

    Adam is so insanely good. Loved watching this

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    Right?? The flow and efficiency in his climbing is insane

  • @Shakespearespaniel
    @Shakespearespaniel3 жыл бұрын

    Anyone else seeing a *lot* of Jain Kim in Adam's movement? I've missed watching her climb recently, but watching AO gives my motor neurons the same happy buzz.

  • @tobiasmartinez596
    @tobiasmartinez5963 жыл бұрын

    Great video man keep doing this

  • @hushingsilence
    @hushingsilence2 жыл бұрын

    Excellent video. Never noticed this, never heard anyone else mention this. Love your channel!

  • @jn42541
    @jn425413 жыл бұрын

    Great analysis

  • @mikethomas2172
    @mikethomas21723 жыл бұрын

    Precise analysis 👍 more of the same please

  • @laughingman1221
    @laughingman12213 жыл бұрын

    I’d love to see more instructions climbing material!

  • @warren_ds
    @warren_ds2 жыл бұрын

    First touch. Going to try that. Fantastic idea!!!

  • @SigilWen
    @SigilWen3 жыл бұрын

    awesome stuff. lets go

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks man!

  • @La0bouchere
    @La0bouchere3 жыл бұрын

    Seems strange to say that no one is close to Ondra. He is the best but Megos has demolished him in send time on some of the routes they shared like first round first minute (half the time Ondra took) and monkey wedding. Seems like he'll be faster on Perfecto Mundo as well

  • @kizzynanik
    @kizzynanik3 жыл бұрын

    Hi!! Love your vids, can you make one about the US climbing team and how they compare to the european/Asian climbers? E.g. kyra condie vs janja garnbret etc? 🥰

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hey, thanks! That's actually a SUPER cool idea - comparing the different styles that they all use, seeing if people on the same team will have similar beta and stuff! I love that

  • @konradforste2996
    @konradforste29963 жыл бұрын

    Analyse is nice

  • @dharmaslack7382
    @dharmaslack73823 жыл бұрын

    Did u ever try Slackline as a way to improve precision, accuracy - and also overall balance reflexes and neuromuscular activation speed - it works pretty well if you're patient enough

  • @earlgrey2130

    @earlgrey2130

    3 жыл бұрын

    The only problem is that the skills gained in slacklining are not directly transferable into climbing

  • @ragreenburg
    @ragreenburg3 жыл бұрын

    I find it hard to classify any one climber as the best in the same way I do with running. Because even if someone has the world record in the mile, you have to be tougher to have the world record in the marathon. So to have an incredible competition resume and the 5.15d is all incredibly impressive I also think people who do big wall climbs having overall tougher climbs. People like Tommy Caldwell and Kevin J who climbed the Dawn Wall have it where none of those pitches were the hardest pitches ever but I think you have to be much tougher to do that than do a shorter harder route. No disrespect to Ondra or anything and I'm not saying I think Tommy is the best climber ever. I'm just saying that I think when we talk about climbing it's very hard to make comparisons because you could also point out that Ondra probably couldn't have the speed record on The Nose which is also just a different kind of climbing.

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    That's a good point! When I said 'best' I was thinking about single-pitch sport, but you're right - the spectrum is SO much wider than that. It's kind of funny that you use Tommy as an example, because I have a video about him coming out tomorrow! For the record, if I was building a 'greatest climbers' list, I would probably put Tommy over Adam. I really believe that no one else would have been able to crack the dawn wall just because of the sheer work he put in to establish all of those pitches.

  • @ragreenburg

    @ragreenburg

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@ascentionism I'm excited for that video! I do agree that Adam should definitely be in talks but it's just like you said, the spectrum is huge so it's hard to say because it's kinda apples to oranges type stuff.

  • @mountainsite
    @mountainsite3 жыл бұрын

    Adam told that he doesn't have enough endurance comparing to other climbers, that's why he has to move faster. Maybe his tendency to not re-adjust comparing to other climbers is not only due his high level of accuracy but also because of his better finger strength and not willing to slow down the pace. I mean that maybe even other climbers had the same accuracy as Admin, they wouldn't benefit of climbing in the same way as Adam, because they have their own strength and weaknesses. For one climber having the ideal position on the hold before making the move is more crucial than for another, and the former climber doesn't waste more energy than the latter. The former consumes more oxygen, the latter more ATP. This is my layman theory.

  • @DeathlyDiJ

    @DeathlyDiJ

    3 жыл бұрын

    I also think it the way it is explained in the video is not really correct. I think it is not his accuracy that helps him but some of his other strengths that make him seem more acurate as a side effect. Also, oxygen and ATP consumption are basically the same thing, I think you meant a difference in the amount aerobic and anaerobic dissimilation.

  • @alexenders6839
    @alexenders68393 жыл бұрын

    What's the matter with the video? Third re-upload?

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    It got removed twice due to copyright footage, so I had to remove the footage and re-upload it

  • @rickytrockclimbing2935
    @rickytrockclimbing29353 жыл бұрын

    Lol

  • @herbert5727
    @herbert57273 жыл бұрын

    Adam don't have to re-adjust as much because he is taller. I love Ondra as a climber, but people give him too much credit imo and his team's animosity towards Megos is just classless.

  • @ascentionism

    @ascentionism

    3 жыл бұрын

    Does his team have animosity towards Megos? I didn't know that was a thing.

  • @braydonsmedley5652

    @braydonsmedley5652

    3 жыл бұрын

    Being taller really doesnt have much to do with hitting holds accurately which is in reality the thing that helps prevent needing to readjust your grip on a hold (outside of breaking the habit after it inevitably forms)

Келесі