If I might add to the conversation, the "little bumps" are called lenticels, they allow the stem to breathe through the bark. Since they are composed of undifferentiated tissue they can become branch primordia or root primordia depending on hormonal signal.

Another great video, thanks. Funny how things work out - I've almost 100% success with juniper airlayers but very little success with everything else! My juniper layering usually spans march/April through Sept/Oct. Cut made through cambium; use semi-saturated spagnum wrapped in black, heavy duty plastic plastic bin liner type stuff. Three cable ties, two at each end and one in middle to ensure compaction. Seems to work on my junipers. Hope this helps. Thanks again for terrific vids!

I'm 100%(small sample size, less than 20) on cinching off with wire, covering the direct area above the cinch with wet moss and either cutting a plastic container to fit around or plastic wrap it and cover with foil. I use rooting hormone on the site though and don't cut off the layer until feb-ish the next year. Maybe I'm playing it safe by waiting a year to sever but for example all the ones I cut off this year are sending roots out the bottom of the plastic cans I planted them in already, so they had pretty strong roots coming off the main tree... it's that sweet broccoli Itoigawa too, pumped on this year's harvest

thanks for the video! since you asked, I have had great success with juniper airlayers using a similar high-perlite mix, wrapped with a plastic bag to contain the moisture. Wrapping the bag and wiring it without spilling the perlite can be a PITA, maybe I'll have to try the open pot method

nice sharing..👍

Subur sekali pertumbuhannya Om👍👍

Thank you for sharing your experience. I have not had good luck air layering junipers using traditional bark cutting. A few rooted, some re grew bark. I have some monster size junipers in my yard I'm playing with before i take them out for good. I'll try the wire technique. I also used spagnum moss wrapped in plastic which seems to not work as well as a pot with soil. Thanks again, Mats H

@Bonsaify

2 жыл бұрын

Mats - I'll try to do a follow up to this showing the separation. One thing to note is that ambient temperature affects the success of air layers significantly. I've been keeping this and the maple in the greenhouse for the last month and when I checked the maple layers a couple days ago they all had small roots, about 1/2" long. I would expect that the junipers have roots also, but separating them will have to wait as the young roots are easily damaged, so I'll wait another few months at least. Once the juniper roots have a little wood then it should work. I separated one juniper when it had just one root and it did fine.

Would enjoy seeing an update if you're able to provide!

@Bonsaify

11 ай бұрын

Still have this tree - I'll see if I can do a check. The interesting part is that the tops were growing slowly, so it took a long time for the wood to swell around the wires. But I suspect at least one or two now have some roots.

Thanks for this video yeah I had never had any success having the inner bark exposed with some rooting hormone.

Another Great and Informative Video. Thank you! Last two years I made a dozen air layering on junipers with no success. Im loking on the ones I made last month and they are not showing any promis of susesse. I definitely will use this wire twisting method next Spring. wish me luck. Thanks againe!

Thanks for the info.. the traditional technique of removing the bark on the juniper didn't work for me either.. I've known about the tourniquet technique but haven't tried it.. don't think I'll be stacking tho.. too many eggs in one basket..🤷

what about separating each branches of the V and then split each longitudinally? Also, copper would be better if you want to apply higher force before plastic deformation. Good luck! Looking forward for the results. It was 6 months ago...

This is an awesome video, thank you! One question: you said to keep it warm, I'm in the PNW so keeping it outside is relatively warm currently, but we're getting into the 50s at night. I have my cuttings on a warming mat set at 72, but not really sure how to do that with a tree this size. No greenhouse, unfortunately. What options do I have to keep it warm? Should I just put a plastic bag over the little air layer pots?

@Krakenite

Жыл бұрын

Actually, the more I think about it, I’m going to get a little greenhouse to put it in. Is it possible if you have two air layers really close to each other to just use one pot with the propagation mix in it? Or would it be best to separate them?

@Bonsaify

Жыл бұрын

I think you'd need separate foliage on each, but conceivably it would work with a shared container. It'll work with cold weather, but just takes longer.

@Krakenite

Жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify there is nice foliage on both, but they are very close to each other. Not close enough to just have one tree, but too close to easily do this with multiple pots.

Hi Eric I was trying to find some wire that is very similar to the one that you use in your videos what is it called

any update video??

No success with the removing the bark method, partially or completely. Gonna try this next!

Have you done a cotoneaster microphyllus airlayer video before?

@Bonsaify

3 ай бұрын

No...I have one very old one but it doesn't present any air layer opportunities. Since they readily root like a spreading vine, you should be able to layer easily - without even girdling the bark I think. Just place a container with soil around the portion you want as the base and wait a few months.

How can you tell Kishu from Itoigawa?

@Bonsaify

2 жыл бұрын

The two are actually quite easily distinguished once you are familiar with both. The harder thing to distinguish is Kishu from "Shimpaku" which is basically an American nursery cultivar like Kishu, but very slightly more coarse and yellow. Brent Walston's website (Evergreen Garden Works) may have comparative photos. Bjorn did a video on it recently. I may do a video on it soon as I have a fourth variety now that I got from Gary Ishi of Chikugu-en in Gardena, CA which he calls "Kiyozura" that is the texture of Itoigawa but greener like Kishu. The problem I have with Itoigawa, at least what we have here locally in NorCal, is that it has a tendency to turn yellow even when being well tended and fertilized. The Itoigawa I've seen in Japan is more coppery in winter, and a darker green in summer; which makes me think that what we are propagating around here may not actually be the best foliage available...which is the whole point of it.

I have a large japanese maple infected with fungus. Half the tree is dead of root rot. Can I make an air layering on one of the branches that is still healthy(not dead)? Or is the entire tree infected? I desperatly want to save some of the tree :(

@Bonsaify

2 жыл бұрын

It's likely okay to propagate. However, do keep in mind that Japanese maples are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which is not curable. Because it's a vascular disease it would also infect the layers that you're making. (although you could get lucky also. )