Boardwalk 5.8, P1 (Extended) @ Shiprock, 4K Trad Lead
Спорт
This one got me scared. Leading this 5.8 is a test peace to see where your head is at. I might say I failed. lol Scared by the unknown and the runout. If I were to set up belay at the rap anchors then I think I would have been less nervous... Watching this, can you tell I was afrad?
Boardwalk is a classic 5.8, one of the best routes of its grade in the High Country.
Basically, wander up lower-angle terrain on huge horizontals to a prominent rail that angles up and right towards the arete. Follow this rail to a vertical crack. Continue up and trend left to a corner with a bush at the base. Either belay near this bush or continue up (the route is easily done in one pitch). Climb the corner and trend towards the obvious weakness in the roof above (crux). Above the roof, horizontals lead to the top.
The route is located almost in the dead center of the main tier. Look for a large dead tree and a trampled, sandy area and try to spot rap rings, maybe 50 feet up.
To descend, either 1) make a double-rope rappel off the rings at the top, 2) do two single-rope rappels, or 3) do a single-rope rap from the top and downclimb easy fifth-class terrain to the bottom.
The pro is excellent in horizontals and some vertical crack features. It takes a wide range of gear. Carry a single rack of stoppers and cams from the blue TCU to the #2 Camalot.
Пікірлер: 19
As always. Lovely climbing
@NCTradLines
11 күн бұрын
@@jamesc4949 thanks!!! 😇 I enjoyed it myself. 🙌
Fun stuff! 🎉
@NCTradLines
11 күн бұрын
@@henneclimbs1989 agreed! Well worth the time invested on this route. 😊
I thought NC was tricam country, lol. I followed a good climber up Whiteside mountain once, I don't even know how he knew where the route was.
@NCTradLines
11 күн бұрын
It is tricam country! But, I hate tricams. Dont even own a set. lol Hope to get on Whiteside someday but a little spicy for me at the moment!
@mattgraham4340
11 күн бұрын
@@NCTradLines the runouts are breathtaking. Arnot ilgner can piss off
@NCTradLines
11 күн бұрын
@@mattgraham4340did you lead any of it? 😬
@mattgraham4340
11 күн бұрын
@@NCTradLines hell no. I don't even remember the name of the route, but it went straight up the middle of that wall. Into a sea of unprotectable rock and not following any discernable system of features.
@mattgraham4340
11 күн бұрын
Guy who took me wound up establishing a new line on Baffin Island called "marooned at midnight"
Great lead! Have you ever considered getting some nuts and hexxes? I felt like this climb had pletny of places for those types of gear.
@NCTradLines
10 күн бұрын
Yes! I have a set of nuts on me. And have some hexs but never use them. 😂
@evansnipes7473
7 күн бұрын
Well between the piece you back cleaned and the blue cam in the horizontal you missed a textbook passive placement
@NCTradLines
6 күн бұрын
@@evansnipes7473 have you been on this climb?
@evansnipes7473
6 күн бұрын
@NCTradLines over 100 times. You got sandbagged on the belay to. Right where you were when you asked, belay right there on the arete
@NCTradLines
6 күн бұрын
@@evansnipes7473 hey! Thanks for the belay beta. I did both pitches anyway, but it would have been nice get the belay lower for peace of mind. 😊 Didn’t even see the passive pro location but that .3 felt good enough. So, I was happy to keep going from there.