Bastille Crack Eldorado Canyon: The Definitive Beta
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Is it 5.7? Is it 5.9? Only you can say once you've had a go yourself! Lance and Anna put in some laps to dial in the definitive beta on Eldo's most popular climb, the Bastille Crack.
This video should give you what you're looking for if you want to get it own your own, but in case you are interested in a celebrity host:
peakguides.com/guided-rock-cl...
Пікірлер: 28
When I look for climbing videos, this is exactly what I hope for. Funny, informative, shows gear placement, shows mistakes made, and all the beta! More like this please!
So glad this got recommended to me and am shocked more people haven’t seen it. Just moved to Denver and have wanted to do this route for a while, this resource will help a lot
I used to solo that all the time in the 80's great route!
This footage is insane, well done
Just an FYI, the second pin on the 4th pitch they focus on here is also bashed out and no longer useable, they are still there so use them as markers for staying on route, but they have been bashed in and the hole on the pitons are no longer usable. Was able to find smaller gear around the pins though depending on what's on your rack.
Woot! This might be a thing and maybe we'll make more of these "definitive" beta videos.
Great video! Love the humor, keep up the good work!
@Peakmountainguides
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much, Jean!
Great video! This was such a fun route. I did it with my wife, in the summer of 2015.
@Peakmountainguides
2 жыл бұрын
That is awesome! Thanks Scott!
Amazing ! Back in the day all we had was the Rossiter guide book ( which was pretty awesome ) . Most of the time we just winged it on beta from friends
The Northcutt start to the Bastille is 10d, but better protected until the traverse right just below the 1st belay.
Tried the Bastille back in the 90's ? I remember Derek Hersey laughing and cheeering me on, it was dinnertime and I was truly incapable of this route. 5 9? Thank you Derek for being my cheerleader. We all miss you.
@eugenewall6620
2 ай бұрын
He was a right character, the bloke I climb with has been climbing there since the start of the 80’s. He knows all the early developers and climbers. There’s a 5 star route just outside the canyon he put up and another in Boulder canyon right of the falls that’s also 5 stars. I’ve met a few of the greats and have climbed with some as well.
@suzanneblaylock9598
2 ай бұрын
@@eugenewall6620 No kidding. Was Simon Peck, Freddie Snalem or Dave Whaley on that list by chance?
Lol. The first time I did the Bastille was pre cam days. Stoppers and hexes only!
Other than placing the gear in the wrong spots on the first pitch the beta is pretty good. On the first pitch you can get 2 really good stoppers in the main crack before moving left. Placing the 2 Camelot with a long sling in the back of the flake isn't as good because you'll fall farther and swing to the right
Super helpful video! I've been scared of this route but it's time to hop on!!
@Peakmountainguides
2 жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
Please, more of these, but in eldo
When Anna got offroute, what difficulty would you say that was? I ended up doing the same thing and never did get any idea of the grade.
where’s this
I climbed this in 1974 with High Over Boulder.
might anger some trad dads calling the second pitch of OS 5.9 😂
@Peakmountainguides
2 жыл бұрын
We said "air quotes 5.9", which is basically the equivalent of "all due respect", haha!
Step 1. Link pitches 1 and 2. Dont be a kook.
And this is all I dislike about climbing!
@princenabby1
Жыл бұрын
And precisely no one cares about your opinion!