I love this Frame, I got 2 of it. A long Version and a even longer Version. I put the Big Mid Plate to the Front, cut it a little bit out for Transmission Case. This is where I mount a small Fms Battery. I got C10 Length Injora Links on the Front and the same Links from B17 in the Back. It stretches it and makes it a lot more capable because of longer Wheelbase. On the second Frame I got Gladiator rear Links in the Back. It's a even longer Version. Running 43mm Shocks Upside Down. For the Esc I made Sidesliders and a Holder to mount it on the left Side, a bit over and diagonal to the Transmission. When You got longer Links it makes a dramatically better Performance, the Big Motor don't touch the Links when in Suspension and the rear Plate has more Room. When You mount the Esc on the left Side You can take the rear Plate out and replace it trough a Brace for more Space. By the Way its better for Lcg. I was very surprised after this Changes what a capable Frame this is now. And I know expensive Frames too, Cheat Code, Specter, Grasshopper etc.!Probably this eventually helps to fit it a bit better, it works very good for me. Greetings and Thanks for the Video!

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

Fantastic information, thanks for the hints. I settled on putting the esc on the left slider as well. I’m just using the C10 links at the minute and have also added some 43mm telescoping shocks, upside down. I had an awesome testing session already and am pretty happy so far. Check out the next video that comes out tomorrow 😜🤙

Nice upgrade buddy 😊👍🙋‍♂️

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, will bring it over next time and see how it does on your awesome course!🤙

I just ordered the frame, motor and some new wheels and tires for my SCX24!

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

I’m sure you’ll love it. If you went with the same motor you’ll be amazed at the extra torque. 🤙

Good evening Phil nicely done film once again there are times when it's good that we think about things and how to get round problems good luck with this project mate. I'll have to invest in one of these soon but I'm really fancying the new enduro se .

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Geoff. Have been asking around and there are a few people having the same issue with the motor and links. Don’t think it will be a big problem really so will probably not spend too much time on it. The Sendero SE looks like a good entry level rig but I don’t think I’d choose it over a builders kit for myself.

@geoffreywilliamson722

Жыл бұрын

@@PhilBrindley yeah I agree I'm hoping they do a basic builders kit but upgrade it with metal links 👍👍👍

I was looking at the Injora chassis when it came out. Didn't get one in the end, wasn't sure if the komodo motor fitted. I'm also having problems making it all fit under the c10 body without the wires catching the outboard motor. Having that large motor makes that front stock esc location useless as you need to cut it. I've got a LCG rear deck from Shapeways which drops the battery down between the rails. Even that wasn't enough to mount the esc on top. I haven't got any sliders on but I was looking. Did you buy or print your own? I also got the cliffhanger body, saw it for £12 and couldn't resist. I'm wanting to run larger tyres but didn't want to cut up the c10.

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

The Komodo motor is something I’ve been looking at, but always seemed like a pain to fit it all in. I really like the chassis kit. Really nice quality machining, and I’m just a sucker for carbon fibre. I printed the sliders, think they were the Harley Designs ones, was a while ago now. Doesn’t the Komodo use a smaller sec anyway?

@Hi_Doctor_Nick

Жыл бұрын

@@PhilBrindley Yes the esc is smaller, but then your adding back in a receiver. So you end up with 2 slimmer units rather then 1 chunky one. That's if you use an aftermarket receiver, you can just use the stock esc/receiver and plug into that. The fitting of the motor was no problem once you cut the front mount. But like you said it's getting everything else in. With sliders and mounting the electronics out on the side it should work just fine. Might need extra zip ties to keep everything away from the spinning motor. The power and control is unbelievable. I can approach a step just over 2 inches high on an angle (54mm tyres fitted) and it will maintain speed and just crawl itself over. It's like setting cruise control. Or like someone else said "cheat" lol. The biggest downside is the COG is alot higher. If you asked me would I buy it again 🤔 I'd probably say no, but look at the micro komodo. Which ever one you go with, get Bluetooth. It makes setting up so much easier. Gives you real time data like battery voltage, motor rpm and temperature. Set throttle curve and punch. Once it's set you can always unplug the Bluetooth if you wanted.

@Br0rB

Жыл бұрын

The Komodo motors will fit. I just "finished" a build on this chassis, with the Furitek Liko Pro Plus, today. That has the Komodo with the CNC motor mount and the Lizard Pro with the bluetooth dongle. All connected to a decased Turbo Racing 4 channel receiver. I had to remove the lower front plate and one of those connecting rods for the chassis. The motor _just_ clears the top front plate, by something like one mm. I've been running different brushed motors in mine, mostly Injora, with the V1 ESC, and that works quite well, but the Furitek is a whole different thing. I had no idea how good it would be. I've seen plenty of videos on it, and it always looks really nice, but it's so much better than I had expected. I've been considering maybe switching the gearbox and motor around, even if that will move a bit of weight towards the rear of the chassis, but that way I can run a front plate for a battery, and keep the electronics in the rear. At the moment it's all stuck all the way back there, which isn't great. I built my Injora LCG chassis with brass axle housings, overdrive and CVD axles in the front, metal motor mount and metal gearbox, an Emax servo (that works way better with the Lizard Pro than the V1), some homemade brass high clearance links and the 64mm S5 Injora hyrax looking tires. It's so much better than my modded "stock" SCX224 Deadbolt, but still needs a bit of shock tuning.

@Hi_Doctor_Nick

Жыл бұрын

@@Br0rB thats pretty much the same setup as mine then. Unfortunately I had to buy the aluminium mount separate, and I've got the old Lizard. I got one of the first kits. I think the pro can run on s3 which is the main difference. Can't wait to see it running on the Injora chassis, plus a over view of the whole setup be great. The CVDs you got on the front axle, are they standard length or the +4mm to run in the standard axles? Only just seen the wider ones over the last couple of months. Do you find you get a better steering angle without binding?

@Br0rB

Жыл бұрын

@@Hi_Doctor_Nick Cool. So far it seems like an awesome setup. The Lizard Pro I have is the 1.1 hardware, I believe, and just updated the firmware and calibrated it today. It's able to run 3s batteries, but the only 3s batteries I have are for my 10th scale trucks, so way too big for this tiny little thing. :) I'm making a video of the whole build, including a few mistakes and a bit of bad luck. Screws breaking and needing to be drilled out, a cheap alloy gearbox that has no thread for the bottom screws, and so on. I like buying cheap parts, but sometimes they aren't all that great. The CVDs are just normal width, so a straight replacement for the stock ones. Installed in some all brass housings. Steering angle is really good, and I have yet to see any binding. I got my first set of CVDs for my Deadbolt, after I broke the stock front dogbone axle on my first real crawl outdoors. Now I have them on both my SCX24s, and they have worked great so far. Not very expensive from AliExpress.

did you ever figure out a way around the motor and link problem? i’m looking at buying the chassis and the same motor

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

No, I didn't. I did some searching and it seems a few people have had the same issue and just live with it, so I decided that was good enough for me. It is right at the top of the suspension travel so doesn't really have a noticeable impact of performance in my opinion. Hope that helps. 🤙

Do you have a link to the 3D files of the orange parts?

@PhilBrindley

7 ай бұрын

They are a mix of ones I designed (but can no longer find) and ones from thingiverse. Sorry I can’t be more help on this one.

I have the same problem with that motor and that link not allowing it to flex well on the side the motor is on but over all that motor turned my deadbolt into a mountain goat along with overdrive gear .

@PhilBrindley

Жыл бұрын

That’s good to hear. I managed to get out for some testing at the weekend and am really impressed so far. Going to add the overdrive next. 🤙

Where did you get the sliders

@PhilBrindley

7 ай бұрын

They are the sliders for the Harley Designs chassis on thingiverse. I don’t think I had to modify them, but I don’t have the files anymore. Sorry.