Astrophotography - Basic Star Stacking
Ғылым және технология
I hope you enjoy!
Links to things mentioned into the video!
Deep Sky Stacker - deepskystacker.free.fr/english... (DeepSkyStacker 3.3.4)
GIMP - www.gimp.org/
XnConverter - www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/#d...
T-Adaptor - www.amazon.com/Celestron-9362...
Ring Mount - www.amazon.com/Celestron-9341...
Timer - www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter...
Пікірлер: 55
Top job. Most of the stacking/astro vids I have looked at are poorly thought out and make too many assumptions about the knowledge of the viewer. This is the right level and the way you talk it through is the best I have seen
So far this has been the best explanation of Stacking I've even seem, thank you!
do we need to align / shift the RGB to be overlapped in Deepsky stacker program after stacking? just left for next postprocessing ? since mention don't do further in DSS after stacking.
Brilliant Video, makes so many things clear and understandable. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for explaining bias shot. I didn't know the science behind that part and why it was different from a dark.
Hi i have bought the star adventurer can you tell me the make of tripod you are using Many thanks
Thank you for your effort. it's a long video but it is very useful, important tips.
Hi Tom, I have no luck stacking in DSS. For some reason, my image in DSS is a long, vertical rectangle that looks pretty bad. First of all, how do I get my image to look normal? Is there a setting in DSS that allows you to adjust the size of the image? Thanks
Does your Mak have a threading around the eyepiece holder? You could get an adapter for your camera body that threads directly to your telescope without the sloppy 1,25 inch piece. At least, this is the case for my Mak. I can attach my Canon to it directly without any slop.
I heard you were saying exposure of 15-20 seconds. Did you track using your mount while shoot a picture? I read somewhere that the maximum exposure time is estimated 500/focal length before one can see star trails in the pictures, which is about 0.4sec using your focal length.
Primary noise with DSLR’s is what’s called color mottle. That’s why it’s important to dither several exposures of the same target or you multiply the color mottle noise in the photos. Dithering is moving the camera two to three visible star diameters each frame, around the center of your target. Then when you stack them, color mottle from the Bayer matrix doesn’t multiply.
Ya got my attttition. Best explanation yet. I am from the future, mid 2019. Just got a new camera after being outta it for 10 years. I am into wide field photography. Same probs. Sharpening has always been a bug-a-boo. Gotta be a better way???
35:00 Don't die on me, dude! Somebody hit his back! Also nice tutorial! Helped me in many ways.
The interval is different on some brands. So some of them you can set the shutter to just say 30sec then the interval time to 5sec. Depends on the brand. But really good video
very helpful, thanks for making it....
It looks like Deep Sky Stacker is a lot fancier than the stacking program I used to use (Registar) when I was doing astroimaging some years ago. I definitely never tried to shoot DSOs at f 12.7 and 1300mm focal length. I often used 100mm-200mm, at f/2.8 if possible, with 5-10 minute subexposures and narrowband H-alpha filters to combat light pollution.
@Sharpless2
6 жыл бұрын
Registax is not made for Deepsky. Its for planets, and thats it.
@alenk738
5 жыл бұрын
Registar, not Registax. Google it.
Use a T2 to adapter for a more secure mount. For M4/3 we want a short length adapter, not the normal SLR mirror box adaptor, they are too long for the back focus, get an eyepiece to M4/3 and discard the sliding tube revealing the T2 thread, screw that on to the telescope. Other mirrorless cameras will also want a short adaptor.
at around 46min - "curves" is in a way superset of "levels" whatever is done in levels can be done in curves, you don't really need to use both. Just use curves move the left point a bit to the right - to darken overall, then you can play w. the mid-curve to do something very similar to gain. regardless, very helpful video
liked and subscribed, this video is really helpful
I tried to use Deep Sky Stacker for Mars last night. Thanks to this video, it was an easy chore. However, I haven't started to do the processing yet with the GIMP software. Thanks for all the tips. Was/is Deep Sky Stacker appropriate for Planetary stacking?
@Mr77pro
4 жыл бұрын
Definitely not for planetary. You need registax or autostackert for planetary.
Is 3.3.4 still the best choice?
Great video 👍
Thanks for the tutorial !
wonderful, thanks!
Deepskystacker is for Windows what about Mac?
Great advice thank you
Good views
Nice tutorial
Did you take that wonderful picture of that galaxy at the beginning of the video or did you get it from someone else?
Thank you for the video..
Much appreciated.
This is a slippery slope Tom - you think a gamma ray spectroscope was expensive? If the astrophotography bug bites you'll be in real trouble. Ask me how I know :-)
Retitled to "an hour of random astrophotography tips" but I meant to focus on stacking. See: Yertle the Turtle
Learned a lot thanks.I
It should be noted that most telescopes beyond the beginner's series use 2", not 1.25".
@Sharpless2
6 жыл бұрын
and then theres that free 1.25" adapter that comes with every scope....
@Mr77pro
4 жыл бұрын
It depends on the size of the sensor in the camera. 1.25" works up to approx. 4/3" size (22mm diagonal) aps-c and up definitely require 2". I think you were prob referring to .965"....cheap department store scopes.
Welcome back
MANNEYY
Photoshop’s algorithms are so good now that you don’t even need dark, flat and bias frames. All that noise can be eliminated in post processing.
@Mr77pro
4 жыл бұрын
Not true!! The only flaw photoshop can tackle is vignetting, and it still doesn't do as good as a decent set of flats. There's no shortcuts in this endeavor.
Just so you know, DSLRS don’t use CCD’s. There’s a big difference. Most CCD’s are mono and you use filters with them. DSLR’s use sensors with a Bayer matrix over it. Red, green and blue mini filters over the pixels. Also,CCD’s have regulated cooling. DSLR’s do not. Watch Tony Hallas. He explains it better.
Why not just get a Nikon P900 and be done with it?
@Anti-proton
7 жыл бұрын
That camera doesn't connect to a telescope, so it is forever limited to it's single lens. There are so many amazing lenses to chose from with DSLR's.
@aepceo1
7 жыл бұрын
Why not get a real astro-camera? They aren't that expensive these days.
@christownsend9622
7 жыл бұрын
The WirelessDJ P900
@3DWHIZZ
6 жыл бұрын
one word: NOISE
@shambooki4224
5 жыл бұрын
Aperture
Good stuff but the first 24 minutes are wasted fiddling with a camera. Stacking is the actually useful info.
Jewish astrophotography...
@Sharpless2
6 жыл бұрын
?... dafuq?