Great Video, thanks for your efforts to create the video.

As has been pointed out in other comments, that flashing is either not long enough or it's being installed incorrectly. A roof is a mechanical water shedding system not a sealed solution -- each successive course overlapping the other. As such, unless that bracket flashing goes all the way up underneath past the three-tab slit you're effectively shortening the roof by years and possibly damaging the truss system via moisture over the long term. A perfectly put together roof should not require one dollop of "sealant". It is the unbroken overlapping of the shedding surface pieces which maintains the integrity of the roof. As a matter of fact, depending on sealant is a guarantee to future problems. Sealants weather and fail. Roofer's tar is mainly to glue the three tab system back down after maintenance so high wind doesn't flip back the tabs. I realize this is a video series to expose people to the ease with which a rail system can be installed. However, performing this work without a thorough understanding of how a roof should function or be repaired is asking for the slow, steady, and extremely expensive structural rot repair of the compromised roof at some point in the future.

@ZPaulLucenti

6 жыл бұрын

Hello. I am a home owner in FL about to install a 30 panel array on my roof so I have been doing relentless research and checking out many videos. This whole flashing thing is where I am stumped. After seeing this comment it almost sounds like you are saying all solar roof installs with this standard practice will kill a roof in a much shorter time. In this video they are using a standardized flashing system that is 12x12 in which you tuck about half of it underneath the above shingle. He is using a "Snaprack" system found on ebay at about $15 each, which is a lot of money! Now, I'm saying to myself this is not a good idea to have to break apart shingles at all. I don't really get why it's standard to do it in this manner. As it has taken me now 4 months to finally get the permit to do this I had purchased 5x7 steel flashings on Amazon at about $50 for 100pack. My purchased system included the L-foot with rails and attachments but no flashing parts. So as a way to cut costs and perhaps perform a safer method I noticed my flashings fit nicely horizontally between my shingles and that I could firmly tuck the top of the flashing into the above shingle without tearing it apart and putting it directly underneath it. My proposed plan is to use a generous amount of sealant on the flashing, fill the hole with sealant, then tighten down the bolt through. Also the flashing would not overlap shingle below as it does in this video. Sound crazy? See my photo at this link s26.postimg.cc/4hc1x7hi1/20180410_173143.jpg

@rhaebus9785

6 жыл бұрын

He is right they did a pretty sloppy job, the flashing should be up higher to promote water shed. I don't like that particular mounting system at all and am currently working on a DIY install / research phase right now. I decided to go with an IronRidge rackmount system as they have great reviews and look to be a solidly built product. Look up their Flash Foot two install videos on here and you'll see what I mean. Hoping I do not have the same permit trouble in Florida as you did, 4 months seems like a long time! Hoping to start building in the spring time when it's a bit cooler out.

Can you make a video showing the whole process without turning off the camera

I took great plans from Avasva . It help me a lot with my own solars.

Measure twice drill once “. However, failed to drill straight cause the flashing is crooked. 😂

Great product, but if you want to see how to do it properly follow our Chanel. This method will probably not leak, but we are currently installing this system while doing our roof, it will be sure not to leak by shingling around the flashing and cutting shingles to go around flashing.

Why do you use the k-flash? if the shingle did not cover the top of k-flash. There is a little whole to get water under k-flash anyway. thanks

Also you can put the k-flash under the shingle to hide it and to make it look nicer. An Inspector does not accept that ://

Thanks for posting. Great stuff. I second miladabdoli1's question about stud finders.

Since you are saying that studs could be any distance, how will you know (as per this video) exactly where the stud is on a roof you don't know?

@TheBossGi

6 жыл бұрын

You can either go inside your house up to the attic and see where they are and measure them or get a stud finder from Home Depot and find them that way.

Find us on Instagram, Facebook, and KZread to find pictures and videos on how to do it properly. We are currently installing one right now and posting on it, located near Ottawa, ON, Canada. I am a Construction Engineering & Civil Engineering Technologist. My good friend is a long time roofer with his own company now as well as mason. He helped me instal while shingling the roof, and shingles are cut around. The way they should be. Please don’t do it this way. And please reshuffle your roof when installing a solar system. It’s a lot of work and expensive to remove a system, shingle and re-install.

I made it by myself. I used inplix scripts for that

And the shingle/3 tab did improperly. Sorry I am roofer :-))

Your pilot holes for the lag bolts are TOO LARGE. As per engineered specs for Kinetic Solar K-Rack, you should be making a 7/32" pilot hole. The pull strength of your lag bolts has now been compromised and vastly reduced as a result of the larger pilot hole.

If you want to make it too just use InpliX handbooks.

If you don't know how to make it by yourself , just go to inplix website.

Go to inplix page if you'd like to know how to build it. Great solutions for everyone I think

Straighten the plate for Gods sake. Don't you care how it looks? Its got to be in line with the shingle line. Anything otherwise is just sloppy, poor workmanship.