I would watch Clive solder 128 connections, because he would start telling stories that end with things like "and the transformer explosion lifted the lorrie 3 feet into the air; quite exciting!" and then he would take a sip of ginger beer and rum.

@DesmondsDonders

6 жыл бұрын

That sounds like Clive :-)

@ADR69

6 жыл бұрын

Exactly how I thought as well

@jamesvalentine925

6 жыл бұрын

The stories that accompany these videos are one of the best parts of the channel. Although I sometimes solder in the region of 128 connections and find it tedious towards the end, it's quite therapeutic watching someone else doing it.

@vibingwithvinyl

6 жыл бұрын

It sometimes reminds me of The Fast Show. "And I was very, very... very drunk."

@drteeth7054

6 жыл бұрын

Fully agree! BG's stories are one of many reasons I love his vids.

6:55 "I certainly don't use it on my clothing." Words of a genuine bachelor.

@thomas316

6 жыл бұрын

Iron, tupperware, rubber gloves and a sponge. This episode had them all.

@mordokch

6 жыл бұрын

Funnily enough I have the exact same iron, which has been used for all sorts of stuff, but it's never ever seen an item of clothing other than to iron on transfers. I call mine 'Burny' :)

@nferraro222

6 жыл бұрын

Took me a moment to identify the device. Might be good for grilled cheese sandwiches.

@jamesvalentine925

6 жыл бұрын

We own an iron, I think my wife is under the impression it's an ornament though. Occasionally I use it for dealing with transfers etc... Life's too short to iron clothes.

@danmackintosh6325

5 жыл бұрын

This is what I keep attempting to tell my better half, I think the message is slowly getting home although she does still iron school uniform which is sort of acceptable IMO. Good to know there is a valid and genuine use for the iron though after all...

_To anyone interested in etching their own boards:_ By no means am I the expert here,... but I've experimented a lot over the last year. The biggest thing that helped me with my photoresist setup was someone that recommended I try "Dupont Riston 215" photoresist film. The film itself is nice but not substantially different from the cheap Chinese stuff (as long as it's fresh film). The big difference for me was the datasheet. There is an actual datasheet available online with detailed specs for developing film. Of course these specifications pertain to industrial standard equipment and environments. However they are excellent as a general ballpark guide. The datasheet also mentioned things like the "Stouffer 21 Step Guide." This sent me on a search that resulted in the creation of my own transparency for testing exposure times with fine resolution traces. The trick is to setup a board with the test pattern and cover it with a sheet of light blocking paper or, like I use, cardboard. This cover is removed a little bit at a time periodically. How fast this is done depends on the power of your exposure source. As an example, in the Southern California sun between ~11am to ~3pm my ideal exposure time is just under 3 seconds for photoresist (5 seconds for Dupont Dynamask dry film solder mask). A weaker light source will take longer. When I was establishing how long to expose my photoresist I moved the exposure cover every .5 seconds for 10 steps across the board. I had these steps marked on the transparency too. Once I'm done I recover everything and develop the resist film. If you have a super fine resolution design on your test transparency with difficult to resolve details you'll quickly see exactly how long to expose your film. IIRC Dupont Riston 215 film is specified for a maximum resolution of ~200nm. That's smaller than any hobbyist design will ever be. This requires industrial equipment to achieve anyways. However, during the test I managed to resolve a hair and dust if that gives you an idea of the possibilities. This test revealed I was over exposing my photoresist and also adding too much developer to my solution in order to compensate for the exposure. Using the datasheet I came up with a development solution ratio of 3.9g of sodium carbonate to 1000mL of distilled water. The trick is to get the water up to a temperature that is about as warm as you can comfortably put your hands in. With this combo my film develops in well under 1 minute and inside of the datasheet specification. The datasheet also has a fairly tight tolerance spec for how hot to heat the film. I found I was overheating my film too. After seeing the temperature spec, I used a thermocouple with my DMM to dial in the temperature of my iron. I used a travel iron (bc no steam holes) before I got an Amazon basics laminator. I marked the temperature on the dial of the iron. This fixed lots of my problems too. Also, I switched to cleaning with 00 fine steel wool. That helped a bit. However, the big improvement to my prep was someone mentioning white powdered dishwasher detergent. The protective coating chemical used for preventing copper clad's oxidation is hydrophobic (causes water to bead). This must be completely removed. Only when water sheets off completely evenly is the board clean. White powdered dishwasher detergent will achieve this. Last thing I'll mention, I sprayed water on my boards to apply film and still do for smaller boards. I ruined a bunch of film doing this on my first few projects larger than 10cmX10cm (1st was actually 210mmX180mm). My solution was to submerge the entire board in water and apply the film under water first, placing the film and getting it started while submerged. Then I remove and squeegee the rest of the water. With my larger boards and sprayed water I had all kinds of trouble with alignment and wrinkles ruining film. GL. I hope this helps someone like my past self :-) -Jake

@bigclivedotcom

5 жыл бұрын

My own recent experiments have involved cleaning the PCB with dish soap and a green scouring pad. I then place the PCB under a slow running tap and glide the film under the flow and onto the PCB before squeegeeing out the water. To set it I used water that had just boiled so it was as hot as possible without risking making the trapped humidity steam and cause blisters in the film. I've been using 1g sodium carbonate per 50ml warm water.

@UpcycleElectronics

5 жыл бұрын

@@bigclivedotcom Thanks, I came looking for the upload where you talked about the pcb holder you have. I was telling someone else about it and realized I hadn't saved the reference. ...then got sidetracked and watched this one again for the inkjet silkscreen transparency paper. My laser printer's toner deposition rate with transparencies is my biggest challenge to overcome right now. I have to basically use a marker over everything but the very edge of the toner print to get perfect results. I've tried stuff like doubling up the print Mr Carlson style but I can barely get 1 sheet perfectly butted up to the board. Two is just a terrible idea in my attempts. I still haven't built a good exposure light box setup I like, but here in SoCal we have about a month of cloudy days between late May and early June. This got me trying a toner transfer and a suggestion someone mentioned to me about a month ago. I tried using inkjet photopaper with my laser printer. I tried some I already had, one glossy HP branded and one old semi-gloss Kodak branded. The HP stuff basically glued itself to my board. It took a stainless steel scrubber to remove, -not so great. The Kodak stuff was a lighter weight paper. It still stuck to the board worse than any other papers I've tried, (except the HP). However, both of these inkjet photopapers picked up more laser toner than anything else I've seen, and by a long shot too. I printed them on my "transparency" print setting as this has the maximum toner on my old Brother printer. Anyways I soaked the kodak paper in water for about an hour just to see if I could get the paper off. It didn't seem to help. I ended up trying a pink block type pencil eraser to remove the last layer of paper, and that actually did the job quite well, no damage either. I was just making a little LCD breakout board. This toner transfer is the best results I've ever seen from a transfer. I've tried various papers from news print, to glossy mags, to old books, and even Avery label backing sheets, nothing compares to this inkjet photopaper. I went back and thanked the guy that suggested it. He mentioned trying even lighter weight papers if I can find them. He also said to wet the board prior to ironing the transfer. I was shocked at the quality from this setup. I mean I've done a few dozen transfers so far and this was well beyond my expectations. The LCD flat flex was a 14pin 0.5mm pitch. I thought I was really pushing it to try to add the breakout header pinout between my traces in 4pt/1.5mm positive text. I've done this with photoresist and negative text but not positive and this small. They came out perfect with the transfer. I even manually tinned the whole board without problems lifting the text. For anything small I'll probably use this technique from now on if I keep getting these results. I also heated some old ferric chloride for the first etch above room temp with it. I was hoping I could still use it instead of making another batch of hydrochloric acid mix. The last time I used it at room temp the board took 45 minutes to etch and thats with my microwave turntable agitator setup too. With heat the board was done in under 5 minutes. I just used an old 1970's electric casserole warmer thingy I got from the local junk store for $1. It doesn't even have a temperature setting...or switch. Heck it barely gets warm, but it makes a giant difference for the etch time. I was about to retire this mix as it's around 3-4 years old and is well used...or so I thought. Anyways, if you ever have the inclination to try a toner transfer again, try inkjet photo paper in a laser printer I highly recommend it :-)

Love watching these step-by-step's, Clive. Don't care that you've showed your process before. I'm always on board for more like this. Please don't stop yourself from doing these project build-a-longs if you start to think they're repetitive. They are a favorite of mine.

Clive, we can watch you solder 1200 connections, as long as you speak while you do it, it'll never get boring!

I can't say it enough I dig these projects.

What a nice, chatty "electronics enthusiast"! I loved how he patiently (and lovingly) rubbed and twiddled the pcb in clearly under-strength developer for around 6 times longer than I would have waited for. I've added this vid to my likes so that I can watch it on my 'off' days and be re-inspired by Clive's patience. Thank you Clive!

@bigclivedotcom

2 жыл бұрын

I'd rather it developed slower than do the "everything disappears" thing.

That was excellent. I enjoyed seeing the entire process, start-to-finish. Great job -- thanks!

@maxheadrom3088

6 жыл бұрын

Indeed! Really excellent! The best I've seen around. One note: drawing by hand is the really time consuming process!

I have become much more confident in my soldering since I started watching some bearded Scottish git to it so masterfully. Because if you gotta ape someone, ape someone with a bear- er, ape someone who knows what they're doing. So thank you Clive, without you I wouldn't have a desk fan now.

honestly first time i watched from first second to the last one. Normally i watch 50% and listen 50% while working. Like the way you showed a whole process from etching to soldering to explaining and showing. good video clive!

Lovely enjoyable video, thank you very much! I like the board having multiple holes to fit different dropper cap sizes! Simple and clever!

When I was in training for electronics back in the 90's we used PCB that had the photo sensitive coating already on it with a black protective peel away. That stuff was a bluish green but only changed colour very very faintly to a yellowish colour when exposed to the UV unit. It was quite posh I believe they were clinical tubes in a briefcase style housing, looking almost like a flatbed scanner. You locked down the lid, set the timer and waited lol. I have no idea what the developing solution was but the developer, etching and wash chemicals were in a 3 stage bath thing with lidded baskets where you moved your boards from one bath to the next. I remember the etching bath had that same horrid yellow black chemical with a heater and bubble blower built in it. I miss those days, you always remind me of the things I miss in electronics. The experiments, the explosions, the fun times and the headaches when things just wont work lol :D

I might very well "borrow" this. Love the slow colour changing LEDs.

Well explained as usual. There seem to be a lot of videos on KZread explaining how to etch homemade pcbs but not so many great videos about how to apply a solder mask to homemade pcbs.

Cheers! I can always count on The Big Clive video archive to have what I need. Plus lots of good experience based information that you don't get from the manufacturers!

I drill my holes with a very similar hand tool built from a small DC brushed motor fitted with a pin chuck. It's wired with a foot switch to start and stop the motor. When you let your foot off the switch the motor armature is also shorted, the back emf instantly stops the motor. This allows you to position the drill in the dimple hole of the next pad with the motor stopped reducing the chance of breaking the drill bit.

You can bake bicarb in the oven at 100 C for a while to make sodium carbonate. It reverts back after a while as it absorbs water from the air. Also happens to your store bought carbonate, so store it airtight. Good video. I've also used that printing film. VERY expensive stuff, but it works well on a pigment based inkjet - not for dye based inks.

You could just skip ahead but you won't because Clive's rich, calming brogue has lulled your cat to sleep on your lap.

This came at the right time. I too was getting frustrated at the toner transfer method. Will definitely try this after all.

Leaving voids in the middles of the pads to help center the drill bit is really clever.

@ElmerFuddGun

6 жыл бұрын

??? I've never known one not to even back in the old school days using manually placed tape on clear film. It drills so much easier and faster without the need to worry about breaking drill bits. Drilling through copper just wears out the bits faster for no reason.

@tom_something

6 жыл бұрын

Interesting.I don't design circuits. I'm just a fan, so there's a lot I don't know.

@theskett

6 жыл бұрын

There's a lot we all don't know. For example, copper sure doesn't wear out tungsten carbide bits. Fiberglass, otoh, is fairly bit-abrasive. Copper 3 vs. glass 5.5: geology.com/minerals/mohs-hardness-scale.shtml

@tom_something

6 жыл бұрын

As I understand it, those bits he's using are on their second tour of duty anyway.

@theskett

6 жыл бұрын

Didn't volunteer, tho ;-)

I prefer those more diffuse LEDs honestly, quite a good effect. Nicely done

In the mechatronics lab we made PCBs using an amped up awards laser engraver that could do two sides, but mainly used for single sides. Applied a varnish over the copper, and the laser burned off everything but the trace. Then flip the board and it could drill the holes and burn in other designs. Those were the days.

I also like to paint the PCB with some rosin/acetone mixture before soldering. It evaporates quickly, makes soldering really easy and protects copper from oxidizing over time.

i love these long for videos Clive, would love to see more soldering vids too!

Seeing this makes me want to see you build a sort of "firecracker string" Out of components like LEDs, capacitors, and the like. Basically, one pops, which causes the next to fail then the next and so on. Dramatically of course!

really really enjoyed this video clive!! : o ) thanks clive!

Where "baking soda" is sodium bicarbonate, "washing soda" is sodium carbonate AKA soda ash. cheap easy access from the supermarket, at least in the states. Thanks for all your great videos Clive!

This looks like the ideal thing for a therapy room in a hospital or whatever, those colour changing LEDs are hypnotic.

When I did this I printed the layout with a b/w laser on paper and shone the UW through the paper direct to the photoresist. Skipping the transparency. Toner side to the resist made for super sharp contours!

This was very interesting. The whole process was cool to watch. Circuits are quite beautiful in their own way.

@theskett

6 жыл бұрын

ASKARIwest You might enjoy scanlime's channel, especially where she assembles Boldport kits. Or assembles BC's LED tree, even :-)

Hurrah for build videos!

I used Shipley AZ111liquid pos photresist for years, the developer was the same sodium carbonate but it also contained a surfacant (detergent) to help out the development process. I would experiment adding a little laundry detergent to your sodium carbonate solution and see how that works. I started with the ferric chloride, but switched to ammonium persulfate because it was supplied dry and did not stain like the ferric chloride and was less caustic. The down side is that it needs to be heated to work. Also used the muriatic acid -- hydrogen peroxide etchant which works quite nicely. To strip the resist -- acetone, or strong Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) solution. But now I get the boards built by JLC PCB in China, can't buy the blank boards for the price JLC charges

Quite enjoyable video. I really want to build something like this myself now. Could try putting a diffuser in front of the clear LEDs.

Somewhere I think I have a minicraft jigsaw, almost identical to that little drill. Same black plastic, same on off switch. Also from RME about 1000 yers ago. I'll need to dig around and see if I can find it.

I don't know if it is a big thing, but when I did my last etches years ago, I just put a sticky tape to the back of the PCB, and carefully laid it to the ferrite chloride. It floated on the top of it, and had nice etch, while every possible residue just went down to the bottom of the container, and with the sticky tape I was able to get it out with clear hands. Have to check for bubbles though :)

I've been trying to find a reliable detailed way to etch brass plaque and name tags for a solid 2 months now. Cant believe I found all the information I needed from a pcb etching video from a channel I've been subscribed to for over 2 years. Goes to show you'll find it when your not looking.

@bigclivedotcom

5 жыл бұрын

Also check out electroetching which is well suited to surface etching of plaques.

@alec4672

5 жыл бұрын

@@bigclivedotcom Thanks for the reply and the tip! Love the videos you and AvE are top two.

Excellent video!

Actually sort of want to watch Clive run through 128 solder joints.

For toner to copper clad, I used the laser printer safe overhead transparencies with an iron. It works fine for me since I rarely make boards.

would love to hear some ideas on how to get decent RGB color mixing on these and still having a fairly focused beam i guess a half clear half diffused LED would be neato, have diffused resin around the chips and a focusing clear dome on top

Sprint layout rocks!

I'm suddenly wondering if a laser cutter could do the etching and "drilling" for circuit boards. Something like the Glowforge can etch materials as well as cut them, so maybe it could be adjusted to vaporize the copper instead of using etch as well as cutting the holes in the fibreglass.

Great video mate, I searched for a video about using dry film photoresist, I knew that when I saw your name the video would provide all the answers I knew I wanted and others that I didn't know I wanted :) Just wanted to add that incase you don't know, if all you have is sodium bicarbonate but you want sodium carbonate. Preheat your oven to 200C and bake the bicarb for 15 mins. At temperatures above 80C, sodium bicarbonate breaks down to sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), water (H2O) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Since it's in a hot oven, after 15min all you have left is sodium carbonate. BTW, I'm not a chemist. I heard this ages ago and just googled it, gave you this info from a scientific amercan chemistry project for kids called "Vanishing Baking Soda".

@bigclivedotcom

2 жыл бұрын

At some point I discovered that sodium carbonate was sold in big packs in the laundry aisle of the local supermarket.

Just for info, sodium bicarbonate decomposes into sodium carbonate, water and CO2 at 200C. A bit of time in the oven, and your very ordinary baking soda magically becomes your very special developer.

@cmotdibbler4454

5 жыл бұрын

You are too hot it's 200 F (~93.3C)

@firmman4505

4 жыл бұрын

CMOT Dibbler ok

@alexwest1977

2 жыл бұрын

​@@cmotdibbler4454 At 200 F it would take an hour or so from what I'm reading. At 200 C it's 15mins. I don't think our normal food ovens get hot enough to cause a problem for sodium bicarbonate. It melts at 3000 C so prolly keep it less than that I reckon ;)

Hi Clive, if I have to trim LED legs before fitting them to a board, I cut them so that the long lead when trimmed is still longer than the other. Tom...

marathonning you building pcbs tonight!

Your solution with that special transparent sheet seems better than glueing two sheets together, lol. Also, when people use laminators they are usually modded for a higher temperature.

Hey Clive some tips you might find useful: - for drilling holes larger than 0.7mm in pcb I use tungsten spear tip bits because those are much less prone to breaking than the spiral drill bits and self center really nicely. (havent found any smaller than 0.8 though :( -That Nurdrage tip also works for regenerating used ferric cloride if you can get hydrochloric/muriatic acid. If you can't get the acid there is a workaround using "PH Minus" from pool supplies in combination with table salt and some tupperware.

Hi Clive! Will the photoresist film cling to fiberglass side as well? I have used a spray photoresist to expose component placement and names as kind of a silkscreen. for small projects it's not so relevant but when you have many parts it really helps with assembly. The spray I use has trouble adhering to fiberglass and thus the results arent always the best. on copper side for SMD's, it really looks like crisp and clear silkscreen.

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

I think it probably should stick to the fibreglass side, but have never tried it.

Would it be possible to increase the current through the leds by reducing the value of the series resistor or is this a bad idea?

@bigclivedotcom do you have a link to the software you`re using and that plastic?

I think the resistor in series with the input voltage is needed because at start the capacitor is a short circuit. If you had bad luck and plugs it when the voltage is on it's maximum value, you could blow the LEDs.

Thank you Clive! Appreciate the reply!! Is there a particular brand of resist you use? I am trying to use the process to etch my knife blades, so obviously I can't use a laminator either!

@bigclivedotcom

3 жыл бұрын

The stuff I've been using is generic eBay stuff.

I'd never skip a moment Clive. I don't even play faster. :)

Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda is Sodium Carbonate. We use it a lot for removing rust via electrolysis in restoration projects.

@klinglerjh

4 жыл бұрын

Would Borax work?

Did you try photo resist in spray? Like positiv 20, these last for about 1.5 square meters of pcb and develop faster

Here's a wee technical question - what's the minimum line width, or even hole diameter, that you've found will still resolve on your etch? Thanks.

Damn good video. I always learn something.

Did you try shorting out some LEDs to get the current up in the rest to see if you can improve brightness?

Thank you so much for sharing. I have tried this dry film method several times with no success. I'm pretty sure that my problem is in the soda wash proportions. I'm not sure what 8 grams is. My kitchen scale seems to weight out a lot more powder than I see in your mixing tray. Is this weight, volume or some other measurement that I may be missing. How do you measure out 8 grams?

@bigclivedotcom

3 жыл бұрын

8 grams is about a quarter of an ounce.

I was wondering how small you can make the trace width with this aproach. I guess the achievable resolution for the printed silk screen is limiting first and the exposing of the photoresist is the next problem.

Good! 👍 The slow relaxing randomness... 😏

Hi Clive, Have you tried toner transfer paper? I found some a while back that's a yellow colour that seemed to work quite nicely and peel right off in one piece with a little water. Not sure if you've already tried this but if not it may be worth a shot.

@deus.gladium1617

6 жыл бұрын

Oh also, if you have a p.o box or something I could post you a couple of sheets cut to a5 to fit in my envelopes.

May I say you handle that steam iron like a complete ironing pro :D

I wonder if you could use the clear LED's for brightness, but then put a thin sheet of frosted plastic or something similar so that the light was collimated up until right before the lens, losing the least amount of light inside the case. Gosh now I want to make a PCB with an ungodly amount of 5050 slowchange LED's or even smaller maybe.

Would it be possible to use a heater similar to those used in aquariums to heat to copper etchant as well as using a waterfall type to have the etchant flow over the board removing material with as little interaction with the chemicals?

@qwerty-cg7hv

2 жыл бұрын

I'm only 2 years late to comment on your post, but! I have an RS unit that I use and it has just that, an aquarium style heater and also a small aquarium air pump to agitate the fluid, both for developing and etching. The board hangs vertically in a perforated sleeve. Fortunately I found it cheaply in a local auction a few years ago. It has speeded up my production no end :-) also everything tends to happen more evenly on the board.

clive how did you get the negative pcb imagedid the sprint software allow a pos or neg output for gerbers or print function. I'm using TIna 7 industrial version,which seems only to output positive print or gerber file,please let me know what you used to get the negative image of the pcb traces. cheers.

@bigclivedotcom

4 жыл бұрын

I use Sprint Layout. When printing off transparencies for prototyping the print page has a check box for inverting the image.

you can use sodium carbonate to both develop and then strip the film if you concentrate? how concentrated should it be to strip the film?

Still curious about what the unicorn vomit would look like with the focused ones since they'll be in different locations per LED

Does an ultrasonic cleaner could speed up the process (with the soda crystals inside) ?

Clive, I am interested in foregoing a UV box to expose this material. Do you know the exposure times for leaving the film between glass exposed in the sun? THANKS!

@bigclivedotcom

3 жыл бұрын

You can test it before the main exposure with a piece of the film on its own. The colour change is also very visible. Make sure the glass is clamped down firmly on the transparency to prevent light leaking underneath.

Thanks for the vid, Clive...and thanks for doing it in real time. The kit I got came with a packet of "Developer" powder and another packet of "Release Agent" powder. Sadly with only Chinese labeling (which I translated) I presume the release agent is to remove the resist after etching. My intent is to use the UV 3d printer for exposure. Wish me luck...

Do you think the layer of film after developing would be suitable for sandblasting or would it disintegrate. A double layer perhaps.

@bigclivedotcom

3 жыл бұрын

I don't think it's strong enough for that. I think you can get photo developed rubbery films for that.

@12:41 .. I've been meaning to try toner transfer with those laser printer sheets specifically designed for iron on t-shirt transfers.

May I ask why you went with the full name Big Clive Dot Com? it's not something that can be skimmed by robots, so I'm slightly confused why keep the dot.

What wavelength for the uv light if I want to diy a box? And is there a certain type of led, I mean voltage or shape wise. I want to play with just making lines at first. I'd like to make the small led exposure box first though being it's playing with leds hahaha I also just bought a 1000 of them as I have only have clear ones. The diffused ones are nice

@bigclivedotcom

2 жыл бұрын

It depends on the film. Try exposing a small bit with different LEDs.

You could use focused leds but with diffuser film in front of it and it'd look a light brighter but still with that cool pixel effect.

Hi, Clive. Have you tried using a toothbrush or similar to relieve the fine details of the film? Will it damage the surrounding detail?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

A soft paint brush works, but a toothbrush would be too harsh.

Big Clive, I used to heat the etcher using electric current through using an incandescent lamp as current limiter. What do you think about it?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

Sounds like it would work for technically minded people. It would be interesting to see the corrosion rate of the electrodes.

Go on... You know you want to short out half of the panel to bring that current up...

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

I do. Maybe nudge it down to a 6 by 6 array.

Hi clive,i've converted back to using uv exposure film for pcb manufacture,being used to positive resist and positive artwork i've come across what seems a stumbling block ,i can't convert my gerber files to negative images to use the very cheap and available film as used in your video,can you enlighten me on the method you used to achieve the negative image,i imagined photo copying into some kind of graphics software a positive ,this seems a bit OTT. Any help would be most appreciated, john ,glasgow.

Hi Clive, do you know of a good circuit simulator similar to Crocodile Clips (now Yenka)?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

I've never really used simulators much. I usually just rough stuff up with real components.

Nice video, like the safe soda method, is there also a more friendly developer available? What is the name of the transparent sheets you use to print the circuit on? Is it suitable for inkjet printers or do you need a laser printer?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

If you look on eBay for waterproof inkjet film you'll find it. The safest etchant is possibly the ferric chloride. Others tend to be very slow or acid based.

@codebeat4192

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the quick answer! Thumbs up! ;-)

Love a BigClive PCB Project!

Great Vid

Good day Big Clive and greetings from Canada. Back in the day when I was doing electronics, I used the positive photo resist method with the spray on resist and either ferric chloride or ammonium persulphate to do the etching. Thank you so much for bringing this new type of resist to my attention! What type of UV light do you use develop the resist? What wavelength? You're the first channel I subscribed to........ ;-) -Shawn's Maker Shop

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

The tubes are standard UVA tubes (blacklight). But this stuff develops in most light. Especially sunlight.

Thanks for sharing 😀👍

When cutting LED leads, I cut them wonky so that the positive is still the longer. I can very rarely tell where the flat but is as I find it indistinct.

Great video !!! did you use a nails uv light ???

@bigclivedotcom

4 жыл бұрын

I have an industrial UV exposure unit, but with glass to press the film onto the PCB you can use many UV sources.

I usually put my board so it floats on top of the etchant but I do have a proper water tank thingy that allows you to see how its etching I stand mine above the radiator to warm it up I have also used my iron to apply transfers veneers soften hot melt glued cardboard boxes even cooked some baked beans ! I have yet to iron a shirt with it !

Also they do make clear cased Color shifting led,s

Cool, Can you sand and polish the tips of the LED's with a dremel and make them less diffuse?

@WaltonPete

6 жыл бұрын

Bad Juju The diffusion is within the actual resin of the LED's so it wouldn't make a huge difference.

@gcewing

6 жыл бұрын

To get a brighter diffused spot you would need to diffuse the light first, then catch as much of it as possible and focus it. Maybe start with a non-diffuse LED, cut the round part off, rough up the flat surface and then glue the round part back on.

For rubbing the board during development have you tried using a stubby fat brush like an old style shaving brush to get the fine detail developed?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

I do normally use a soft paint brush, but I left it lying in the same tray as the ferric chloride bag, which leaked.

What do you recommend for printing the design? Tracing paper or transparency? Laser printer or inject? One layer or two layers (of transparencies/tracing papers)?

@bigclivedotcom

3 жыл бұрын

I used to laser print onto tracing paper, but modern printers often put down a really thin layer of toner. These days I use screen printers inkjet transparency film. A milky coloured film that absorbs lots of ink.

You can convert sodium bicarbonate to sodium carbonate quite easily in the oven. Just heat it to above 70 degrees Celsius for an hour or so and you'll be fine (yes, I do metric (and so should everyone!)) This process will convert the bicarbonate to carbonate, CO2 and water. The time it takes will depend on the volume you make and the thickness of it. I learned this trick from a sausage maker in Norway.

9:17 I wonder what Clive considers a "warm water". Would 10C be warm by Clive's standards :D ?

Clive. how would they have looked if they were set in another plane? If they were placed in a different comb position so that they were "blurred"? Perhaps those positions wouldn't have allowed that amount of blur, and it would have defeated your plan to replicate an idian temple floor. but it might have looked cool? Yeah, over a year late to the party, but that is me - always late!

Would an ultrasonic bath help with removing material, they heat up too, no sponge required

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

I may give that a go and see what happens.

You didn't use your bag o etchant system. Did you decide Tupperware is better?

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

It was just for variety.

now, i used to sand clear leds to get them diffused, could you polish them a bit to get them clear ? just run the soldered in leds over with a car polisher sponge.

@bigclivedotcom

6 жыл бұрын

The diffusion is right through the resin.