One of the best tips I was given when I first started welding immediately improved my welding skills as a young buck so I try to always pass this information on to anyone learning to weld. If you have yourself a pair of weld pliers, the wire cutter that's built in to those will cut your wire to the optimal distance between the cone and your workpiece. And if you have a lot of popping while welding you're too far away. MIG welding is so easy once you get your distance and speed down and then the proper way to move the torch with your wrist and not your entire body or arm. You have to become a tripod. I taught my oldest son to weld proficiently enough in less than 4 days when he was 6. It also helps when your kid is truly interested and mesmerized by these kinda things. And now, being 22 years old, he puts the old man's welds to shame.

Looking great man!! For the greasing of your bearing blocks, what I'm doing with mine, I got Capricorn Bowden ptfe kits. They are for 3D printers but they are also perfect for the bearing blocks. It's an m6 quick disconnect pneumatic fitting, an m10 fitting, and a nylon tube. The m6 fitting will fit your block. Then, get a block of aluminum, drill and tap a through hole with m6 threads one side, and m10 on the other. Put the m10 fitting in, and an m6 grease fitting. Mount it somewhere convenient, cut the tube to length and connect it to your blocks. BAM, remote great fittings and you don't need to fiddle about with with greasing anymore. Hope this helps. I only just recently figured this out and it's great.

I enjoy folloing your ingenuity direct your project repurposing left over junk. Go for it!

Looking good it'll be nice to see how much more rigid the machine will be when your finished

Hi from a new sub down in the South Island (Nelson)! I found and sub'd to your channel from the nRF testing vids, but have really enjoyed watching you build up this CNC router while going through your other vids. I designed and built my own CNC plasma table recently and it was great to see you working through some of the same challenges. Here's a tip for even nicer threads on the cap screws... I just cut them in my table-saw (quick and easy!) then I pop them in my cordless drill and hold them against the belt-sander at at 45 degree angle. In approx 1 second on there they are re-finished with a beautiful chamfer and a beautiful new clean thread entry :) Keep up the good work, really enjoying it. Ps, I'm also an ex-glider pilot from Nelson Lakes Gliding :)

Another great video and explaining how & why you resolve problems as you build!😁

May I'm wrong. The Tip/nozzle of the grease gun should be turnable to release current grease nipple much easier. May you have chosen for a specific reason for a grease gun with fixed nozzle. I would suggest grease guns with flexible nozzles. Thanks for your video, it is really interesting 😁

HA! I built a monitor and keyboard apparatus very similar to yours to game in a reclining chair. I used a swinging TV wall mount mounted to a 2” square tube welded to some 1/4” plate. I screwed the plate to the bottom of the chair to hold everything together. Needless to say, I gained weight. Haven’t gamed in 10 years now and lost the weight.

Its coming along pretty nice Chris looking forward to final completion and first job .On your bolt cutting I find its easier to cut bolt off with nut under the cut and just back nut off when its cut . Take Care

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

3:34 4:33

@MrZeek101

2 жыл бұрын

@@iforce2d OOps my bad

@rjung_ch

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrZeek101 😁✌

For the control of the machine, you could also use a remote "CNC Handwheel", those are very good for large, fast and then small, precise moves.

The other thing those bolt covers do on the rails is help prevent chips from getting up into the slide. If there's a hole there chips can sit in the hole and then get kicked up into the slide as it goes by

I can't remember wether you have a drill press or not. But if you do, a trick that works for me is mounting the screws you want to cut on the chuck of the drill ( If they are allen heads you cand hold them either by the head or by the threaded part that will be left over after the cut) and cut them with an angle grinder while they're spinning. It doesn't mess up the threads because the cut ends in the center of the screw, and you can put a small chamfer on the new end of the screw pretty easily with the grinder while it's still spinning.

Stout shimmage, much better than that flimsy stuff! Use a bottom tap instead of a taper tap to maximise the treads in a blind hole. There are also taps with extended shafts to tap deeper. Just a thought.

"gantry slide check" was great though

Like you, I bought some of the aerosol spray lithium grease, and was disappointed the first time I used it. Later I realised that it was OK, and now I use it a lot.

You can loosen the locking ring on the grease gun, you just have to push a tad harder to seal when pumping

@PiefacePete46

2 жыл бұрын

I was going to suggest that removing the circlip might at least make it useable.

@bgdwiepp

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, you just loosen the "collet" thing on the end a tad where its nurled.

@zviper

2 жыл бұрын

To add you'll eventually rip the zirc fitting apart even mounted in steel

To shorten bolts, cut with angle grinder, bench grinder to true the end, grind in a starting taper and wire buff to remove any left over burrs and have never had a problem with itnthreading in perfectly.

I like how your design is coming together. I will be using some of your ideas when I continue with mine.

Happy New Year bro - good to see you are enjoying your time building stuff still ;) Keep in touch. Haku sends his regards.

I realise that you are probably sick to death of the the "put a nut on the bolt before you cut it" topic, but I had to put my tuppence in. When I was faced with cutting a number of bolts to the same length, I taped together a stack of washers and a nut so the length was the same as the required bolt length. Put it in the vice and run the angle grinder against the face of the nut to get consistent bolt lengths. When you undo it, the nut straightens the burr on the end of the bolt thread. (I still touch them up on a belt-sander or grinding wheel though, so no great time saving over what you did.)

hoho this is surely a beautiful build. And from NZ also!

You might want to consider getting the quick change Dremel arbor and the fiber reinforced cut off wheels. They are so much nicer than those brittle stone ones

For full thread blind hole use a "plug" or sometimes called "bottoming" tap. Different time to cut with dremel versus angle grinder is the speed of the cutting wheel ( x ft/metres whatever/min)at the circumference plus power available. For the thread burr, simply run around with a flat file or hold end of screw againt grinder at 45 degrees while turning it by hand.

RAIN tomorrow! You had better put your stuff indoors lol

Nice build 👍

There are more places to mount a grease nipple on the bearing blocks, but they are not very obvious. Take a look at page 7 of Hiwins greasing manual.

dude, i like your lower belt drive :)

@sommersetcoker5455

2 жыл бұрын

your supposed to unscrew it a little to loosen it off the nipple...

@sommersetcoker5455

2 жыл бұрын

u see that black arrow on the green part of the bearing? theres a drill out 5mm plug there, to put side load grease nipples. put a plug in the center main channel, and put the nipples on the side. :)

When cutting bolts to length, put a nut on first, cut, then take the nut off again. It will straighten the thread out for you on the way off. :)

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

3:34 4:33

@mikeydk

2 жыл бұрын

@@iforce2d 5:26

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

My point was I had already commented on what you were saying. Try doing 90 of them and see which method you prefer by the end of it, and which has a better result. The nut method takes longer and without chamfering the end a little you get a nasty sharp edge that is a pain in the ass to get into hole in soft aluminium with even small misalignment.

Very impressive

2:37... You could tap closer to the bottom of a tapped hole by using a bottoming tap rather than a starting tap that you show. About the grease... Just a though... over time the grease will get full of cut chips....

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

Right. I bought a M6 bottoming tap but don't have a M5. It's more about the overall length of thread on the tap though, because the holes can be as deep as I want. Bottoming tap would give me another 3mm or so I think.

Put nut on the screw first, then cut, then take it out (so it will "fix" thread).

Those thin cutoff wheels work great for screws. If: You use maximum speed. >30,000 etc. Use light pressure. Small screws. 5M is pushing it. The harder the steel the easier to cut. Stainless is not quite as hard as some steels. :)

I had to look up that quote, "I do not leak, you leak" and I found out it's from flight of the navigator, is that worth seeing as an adult? I only know it from the captain disillusion video on the special effects 🤣

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

As a kid not knowing where the story was going I loved it. As an adult though, you might have already gotten more out of the CD video, especially now that the mystery/surprise is gone.

pot the nut on the bolt then grind

sounds like you need a bottoming tap, I think HOSS have a great video on taps

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

Right. I bought a M6 bottoming tap but don't have a M5. It's more about the overall length of thread on the tap though, because the holes can be as deep as I want. Bottoming tap would give me another 3mm or so I think.

Looking at the floor jack bits, don’t you kind of see a landing gear for Big Red?

@PiefacePete46

2 жыл бұрын

Naahhh... wouldn't be nearly strong enough! ;o) (I have an identical jack under my bench, in case he wants to give it a try!)

I hope you see this comment, I would like to ask you what materials you used for the Homeslice 4 plane because I am going to build my own plane in this style, it would be nice if you could answer that. Thank you Jonathan

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

There is a lot of detail in the previous plane series, search for "homeslice 3"

@jonathanpott7551

2 жыл бұрын

@@iforce2d I found the foam but the Problem is I need to now what is the dens from the foam to find a way to calculate the final weight Thank You for the answer

I am just curious about measurements at end and how much you got backslash. I know you said you will make parts for planes and care not much for extreme precision but still would be useful to see some precise measurements and how close you are to "perfection" considering methods you used in building it. I am sure with ajustments after mesuring you will be able to come nearer and see what are limits. I took for my mill double nut ballscrews in attempt to make backslash smaller.

@pete3897

2 жыл бұрын

back LASH. Backlash. Not slash. :)

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I'll take some measurements here and there, just with the cheap dial I have though, not planning to buy anything fancier.

The Zerk grease fittings were invented in my city Kenosha WI USA Mr Zerk has a stainless steel grave marker near my parents and grandparents graves. What have you done with your old CNC ?

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

The small CNC is still here, I might sell it eventually though.

your monitor stand arm is very steam-punk

you know there is a tool to fix that bolt issue it rounds the tip of the bolt... Deburring External Chamfer Tool Drill Bit Remove Burr Repairs Tools

ayo, when next videjo?

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

I have it all together again with drag chains tidy, but there's not really much to show that's worth a video. Waiting on new limit sensors because I stupidly bought normally-open ones. Then add the wasteboard somehow and that's about it. Been doing a lot of programming and some work on my website...

@Tristoo

2 жыл бұрын

​@@iforce2d ooh nice! if you have an electronics store nearby you can hack up an inverting 'circuit' with a transistor in a few seconds, depending on how long the other switches take to arrive it might make sense.

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

The problem is not the polarity of the signal, that can be easily flipped in LinuxCNC. The problem is that a normally-open wiring cannot tell if a wire has been disconnected or damaged. Normally-closed requires a constant connection that will immediately let you know if something is not right.

@Tristoo

2 жыл бұрын

@@iforce2d oh! good point! I'll have to keep that in mind when making my own cnc one day. thank you!

Monitor mount on Amazon 25$ don't over think stuff dude

@PiefacePete46

2 жыл бұрын

But is it "Steam-punk"? :o)

@iforce2d

2 жыл бұрын

I had a look around and there are some decent options, usually a bit pricey and don't move horizontally much, and are generally made to be moved only occasionally. None of them have keyboard/mouse area so I'd still have to make that. I don't think any of them can fully retract over the top of the main pivot to reach every location within their range.