Alternator replacement on XR5 Turbo/ST225/RS mk2 Step by step by OEM Denied Performance

Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары

How to test for a faulty alternator and how to replace it on a Focus XR5 Turbo / RS mk2 step by step by OEM Denied Performance.
Genuine Ford alternators available from focusonperformance.com.au/alt...
NOTE: Earth strap to gearbox check was not show in video as vehicle was driven in thus confirming earth path was already good.

Пікірлер: 11

  • @emayteetee73
    @emayteetee7310 ай бұрын

    Couldn’t have done this job without your video (and the spin-off videos). Thanks a bunch for sharing this knowledge. The demo engine on the stand was spot-on for reference purposes. 😀

  • @razorbbear4397

    @razorbbear4397

    8 ай бұрын

    6

  • @zenstrukt
    @zenstrukt2 жыл бұрын

    About the same process I followed which is great. I had some headaches with the bolts however, a bit worn but due to the age so when screwing the lower ones back in (mind you, barely any torque), it had snapped within the thread. Had to then drop the AC Compressor to get proper access and use a bolt extractor to remove -- replaced with new bolts and she was good to go 🙂

  • @CCODEZ
    @CCODEZ5 ай бұрын

    Awesome vids, I've watched them all so far, followed them for when I changed to a Ram Air filter and changed my aux drive belts and now the alternator, dont have all the nice tools you have :D, but I made do, and still managed to get the jobs done following along with really great instructions. Although I didn't need to test my old alternator, as it very loudly announced its departure from it's 10 yr (remanufactured I found) service for me! I think the hulk tightened up my old alternator bolts though, they took some hefty cleaving to get off, was almost convinced I was turning them the wrong way. The top "hardest" one to get to was no joke for me, I was literally leaning on full body weight (and I'm not small) to move it, finally got it though! The rest were then not much better, but more manageable. Also I've found out that my inlet manifold is securely tighted up by no more than 4 bolts....! Not something I ever thought I'd need to check, makes me want to go through the entire engine bay haha.

  • @philpaulcook
    @philpaulcook2 жыл бұрын

    Brilliant vids, wouldn’t mind seeing a front end sway bar replacement if one ever comes up.

  • @Rocky4510
    @Rocky45108 ай бұрын

    Brilliant video. Im after a bit of advice, my positive terminal is getting extremally hot even after only 2 minutes of running. The car is constantly dieing and im having to jump it every day, i was assuming a battery drain from something but a couple of people have mentioned it might be my alternator, could my alternator be bad and cause the positive terminal to get hot? It has killed 2 brand new batterys over a few weeks

  • @louishamilton225
    @louishamilton2252 жыл бұрын

    Thanks a lot for the guide Jamie, my alternator is currently on it’s way out so this couldn’t have been posted at a better time Can you use the diagnostics menu for the battery reading instead of a multimeter? If it’s less than 13.5 does that always mean it’s knackered regardless of the battery’s condition? Cheers :)

  • @OEMDeniedPerformance

    @OEMDeniedPerformance

    2 жыл бұрын

    I would advise to use a multimeter so that voltage can be tested at battery and at alternator to confirm wiring is good. Its always wise to load test the battery at the same time to confirm battery is still good - if its been run flat and left for 24 hours it degrades the battery

  • @louishamilton225

    @louishamilton225

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@OEMDeniedPerformance cheers mate thank you, got a new battery ready to go in anyway as mine is toast and well due

  • @JoanadanielMurrombe-zp1jm
    @JoanadanielMurrombe-zp1jm Жыл бұрын

    Morning brother i nid one luck dis

  • @robertfreund7525
    @robertfreund75252 жыл бұрын

    Or just replace diode for few bucks and is much cheaper then replacing all altenator. Problem is in diodes not all altenator.

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