Wow!!! I am blown away! I had no idea how much automatic washing machines have changed in the last several years...I have worked on washing machines for the last 40+ years and boy have things changed!! No transmission at all anymore. Seem to be fairly simple now and less parts. Simply amazing!!!

I have been the unfortunate owner of a Cabrio WTW5500 for six years. I just finished replacing the entire gearbox because the main bearing is NOT replaceable. I also replaced the four suspension tub-hanging rods, because one cannot replace just the worn teflon sliders. I do my own work and shop carefully online for parts, so repairs have cost me "only" $200+ over six years of fairly light use. This thing replaced a 20-year-old Maytag that finally rusted out. The only repair the Maytag needed was the lid switch (sub-$10 part, about a 15-minute repair, if that).

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

I had old Whirlpool model lasted 10 years that rusted and I replaced with this one......BAD CHOICE....

I have the Whirlpool wtw4800bq model. It is 3 years old and works great. It really moves my clothes around during agitation too. The best thing about it is I have full control over the tub fill on my model, which may be the last model Whirlpool ever made with that feature. I hope it lasts me. Just in case it doesn't, I bought a mechanically controlled Speed Queen washer. That thing is built like a tank and will probably last 20+ years. I use that one now more than the Whirlpool but I make sure to use the Whirlpool about once a week. It really is a fine machine in its own right. It has a super fast spin speed of 1100 rpm which is faster than the Speed Queen.

It's okay I kept looking for an answer and got the part online. Actually got it on 20 mins ago and running it right now for the first time. Thank you for looking and responding though. To your other video of hearing and seeing it run it sounds like it should be doing what it should.

Interesting setup.

That was a great tutorial! Thank You. I'm trying to fix my neighbors washer, same kind. I'm hoping for some advice. Initially it had a lock lid light flashing, and it made a sound like the motor was either locked up or the start capacitor was bad. I replaced the start capacitor and the shift actuator. There is no lock lid light flashing now, and no weird sound, but it still does not work. I get a continual sensing light on along with the lock lid light on, not flashing. Everything seems to work in the diag mode except wash and spin. Either it's the splutch or the new actuator is no good. She had some appliance guy come out, and in 5 minutes, he said she needed a new control board, or better yet, a new washer, without even looking at it. I guess I'm asking if you think I'm on the right track, or if you had another suggestion. Thanks in advance for any advice or input!

there is an optical sensor close to the piece the synchronization motor moves that tells the control board which mode it is in and if the sensor malfunctions the board won't know which mode the mechanism is in so it won't do anything when turned on

I appreciate the video! The other day, I smelled burning rubber and then my Roper (Whirlpool) machine (Model RTW4640YQ0) has had two malfunctions that seemed to happen at the same time: agitator does not work and spin cycle dies not work. I did replace the belt because of the burning rubber smell, but that did not fix the problem. This washing machine cannot be more than two years old. Is it the splutch? Any suggestions? Thanks.

The mode shiftier of mode change servo ,, also contains on its bottom a rotation sensor that tells the washer control board if things are rotating in drum/agitation sensing how far and how much RPM ..

My four-month-old machine stopped spinning. When I flipped it over, the large gear had ground a hole into the big plastic gear cover. All of the pieces of the splutch assembly seem intact.

The red part in video is a shift actuator and is a common cause of not draining properly or if it washes the stops and won't drain. Also see videos for splutch (splined clutch) they can get dirt in them that makes the actuator work hard or not engage enough. I found a new shift actuator on ebay for $30 and the splutch with new belt for $35 all new on ebay.

Also the main bearing for the tub and the tub seal are on the gearcase, I have changed several, they are a pain.

What is the purpose of that large coil of red wire with the three cable ties? Is it some kind of speed sensor for the drum?

I have a Amana its exactly the one on your video. its not draining, pump is clear hoses are clear , what else can I do?

I have this exact washer. I just changed out the gearcase and splutch assembly and now it is making some funky noises. Not sure what I did wrong. I did recalibrate it afterwards I can post a video of the sound it is making. Any advice?

I replaced the belt because the washer was NOT spinning...it worked for maybe 3-4 loads and now it is not spinning again...I checked the belt and it looks like it is slipping on the pulley mounted on the motor. I see here that you have a metal pulley and mine is plastic...is there any replacement parts?

@Madou6760 I would but this was at my work and I have to wait to get a free chance to grab another shot of one

The splutch is the pleastic cam kit located above the motor (W10315818) the metal case is listed as a gearcase (Gearcase Assembly (includes Items 7, 8, 9, 10 & 13 On Page 5) (Replaces: W10006379) Part #: W10324649)

@musiclvr7289 If you look at my other video i am washing a full size load. As far as I feel how they wash, they wash great and do an awesome job!! Now they do have longer cycle times than most older design top loaders, but you CAN add anything you want once the wash cycle begins.

The belt drives allthe way!!

what keeps the lower shaft in place?

hi, I have a whirlpool Cabrio. It will not spin or drain the water. the repair men from Sears repaired it and now it is not draining again. I looked under it and there was a wire loose from the capacity. I reconnected it but it still is not spinning. He explained to me the problem last time so I looked to make sure that the capacity did not come loose and got stuck under the belt cover. that is when I noticed the wire loose. Any advice? Please.

When my whirlpool wtw4950xw3 is trying the shift it makes a clicking sound and won't shift unless pushed with something like a screw driver. then it will begin to agitate but then makes a ratcheting sound and stops completely. any idea what this problem is?

MayTag HE centennial mvwc400xw3 stuck in spin cycle won't do anything but spin. was making a grinding sound so i flipped it on it's front and there was what looked like a piece of a rag in between the big drive wheel and the plastic teeth that turn the drum. Is there suppose to be a spacer in there or was it just something a mouse dragged in. Any way after i removed it, it will only stay on spin no matter where u put the dial. i unplugged hoping that would reset it. Now the spins light flashes all the time if you try and hit the start button , lid will lock and where off the the spin mode. was working perfect before this happened I removed the pully and got the rag out.

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

did you try to calibrate it? bcs it looks like in ur case the computer lost calibration bcs of the rag

Hey Jmc love video! I have a question, I own a maytag centennial commercial washer where the lid locks. Im having difficultly determining whether my motor is bad,because the machine will fill the tub if the motor is not connected. If the motor is connected I will hear a humming sound and the lid unlocks causing the machine not to fill the tub. Also wondering if what you call the synchronized motor(whirlpool calls shift actuator) is bad.

Mine started making a grinding noise about a week ago. Turns out, the nut backed off and the grinding was the belt working it's way through the nylon shield. The belt then slipped off and it wouldn't spin. A repairman came out yesterday, pushed the belt on, tightened the nut and called it done. Today, the belt slipped off again, through the worn out gouge it had made in the shield. The pulley wobbles and should have been replaced. Now I have to wait another week for them to come back.

My washer will not wash or spin I replaced everything all but the motor, and still have this problem, please help

Any idea why the splined shaft while still bolted to the agitator is able to freely lifted out from the top on our Whirlpool Cabrio with this style belt drive?

@jmc6000

4 ай бұрын

Not sure would have to see it in person to give a proper assessment

Which bolt are you refering to? Is it one of the two that hold the motor on?

Great video. I need a mode shifter but until you gave me that name (I was using "synchronous motor" and even typed in every number on that thing to find out where I could buy one and nothing came up). But "Mode Shifter" came up right away on Amazon for about $35.00. Thank you!!!

You touch the gearcase at 4:10. You call it a cover. It isn't a cover. That is the gearcase. There is a lot going on in there.

Ive had an expeance with this washer, Why do some came with a metal motor pulley while others have plastic pulley?

@chineeboy18 The motor in the WTW4950XW is a Mexican made 3.7amp Whirlpool designed and made motor, while the WTW4800XW uses a Whirlpool 3amp motor made by Welling manufacturing.

@chineeboy18 WTW4950XW do use the same design, only difference is the H2low wash system uses a different motor than the WTW4800XW.

I might have to do a video response to yours to show you how the older belt drive ones look underneath

had loud screeching noise while agitating. Found the drive pulley to be loose, wobbly and worn, teeth seemed to be worn from slipping. Replaced splutch assembly, splined gear on bottom of transmission seemed a little worn but as replacing the transmission assembly is a much more expensive fix I left it reassemble and hoped for the best. noise came right back. I read it could the synchronization motor not engaging or disengaging enough and the splined shaft not aligning correctly. so I replaced that. still loud noise during agitation. any thoughts? do I need to replace the transmission assembly?

@ronnypenn2705

9 жыл бұрын

That main drive motor is TINY

My Washing machine washer is jammed, what to do ??

The part that I refer to as the metal base, which is what the motor is bolted to, and the shifter is screwed to, and the plastic cams (that you call the splutch), are mounted to, and which is bolted to the underside of the outer tub, is what Whirlpool calls the gearcase, part W10324649. It has gears in it, and it has oil in it, enough oil that oil leaks are a major problem for the MVW/WTW washers.

I'm sorry I don't know much about this stuff but yes I think so. Once you take the white cover and the yellowish wheel. I'm missing the bolt and tried finding the size but cant.

I just bought this washer and dryer off craigslist. Thought I got scammed cuz I got it home and the washer would not balance like it said it should. Just got the fill/lock light an a hum. Tipped it over to seen the belt was off, Why I found your video cuz I thought it would show me how to get the belt on. I got that on then realized the bolt was missing, probably why the belt came off. Okay I went way off into what I would like to ask... Do you know the size of the bolt I need to hold the belt?

Whats going on man? Really appreciate the videos, you are a washing machine genius lol. I have this assembly on my washer and the motor is trying to spin the pulley but it is acting like it is not strong enough. I tried running it without the belt and the motor spun fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

@jmc6000

10 жыл бұрын

Sounds like the capacitor is going bad. I would start there first.

I have an amana that looks just like this one. The belt came off and the pulley is wobbling. i put the belt back on but the machine still wont cycle on. I have a feeling something is broken or stpripped, but could it be that the bottom nut needs tightening? I didnt want to just tighten it up and maybe break something else as it is hand tight. Any insight into what might be going on? thanks!

@jmc6000

9 жыл бұрын

Well the main pulley sprocket nut has been known to back out and making that main pulley lose. If you can find the nut put it back on with some lock tite with some torque to tighten it but don't do it to tight.

Plastic pulley is on latter models when they went with a different electric motor.

Hi there i have this same washer makes loud grinding noise only on spin mode,what can it be?

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

the splutch

Good video. I would disagree on one thing unless I misunderstood. This washer is actually more complicated from a repair standpoint then the Direct Drive. 95 percent of the direct drive problems resulted in simple things, couplings, switch and valves. Not much else could go wrong. The only other problem was technicians who didn't know what they were doing. This new machine however requires more diagnostic time and is unable to handle the loads of laundry the direct drive could handle. I have more of these machines coming into my shop after their first year in service then I ever had with the direct drive. The three most common problems is the suspension failing, the mode shifter and failure of the consumer to use High efficiency low suds soap. Just some thoughts. Lavadoras y Secadoras de Mazatlan

@TheSkoto1

8 жыл бұрын

+Lavadoras y Secadoras Mazatlan MayTag HE centennial mvwc400xw3 stuck in spin cycle won't do anything but spin. was making a grinding sound so i flipped it on it's front and there was what looked like a piece of a rag in between the big drive wheel and the plastic teeth that turn the drum. Is there suppose to be a spacer in there or was it just something a mouse dragged in. Any way after i removed it, it will only stay on spin no matter where u put the dial. i unplugged hoping that would reset it. Now the spins light flashes all the time if you try and hit the start button , lid will lock and where off the the spin mode. was working perfect before this happened I removed the pully and got the rag out.

@patronsindycar

8 жыл бұрын

Did you go into the diagnostic program to see what faults you have? It sounds like the shifter is inop but its better to check your codes first and then check your shifter. Inside your washer is a manual explaining how to enter the diagnostic program

@TheSkoto1

8 жыл бұрын

Looked for the manual it is missing and it won't let me go into the diagnostic mode. soon as i plug it back in spin light starts flashing and that's it other than if you push the power button it spins.

@patronsindycar

8 жыл бұрын

Unplug the machine for 5 minutes and recconect

@patronsindycar

8 жыл бұрын

Then push the start stop button for three seconds minimum

I removed the cover off and it was covered with oil and the belt was off . I replaced the belt and started the washer it started to run then there was a load grinding noise. what should I do

@jmc6000

9 жыл бұрын

Roy Brock The gearcase beyond the metal cover is cracked and must be replace. kzread.info/dash/bejne/aXqXo5mbj7yff5c.html

Part W10324649 is called a gearcase by the manufacturer. There is no part or parts on this washer called a splutch by the manufacturer, although the plastic cams above the main pulley are very similar to the splutch on the world washer.

Nut at the bottom of the main pulley under the washer is lose or fallen off.

Extra wire for a different application.

I cant get my bolt off. I hold the pulley and when trying to unscrew the whole bolt moves with the nut. How do i get the nut off now? please help.

@TheSkoto1

8 жыл бұрын

+Jaime Matulka I know this is 3 months old but Bolt is put on with red lock tight. U can hold it and break it loose but you have to really put out at least i had to on mine. Thought at first it was welded on but it finally came loose.

grate video but my problem is my washer barrel is banging against the body of the machine when in rinse mode

@bluegreen1548

9 жыл бұрын

Be sure the laundry is added evenly so that it doesn't throw it off balance, then check the counter weight. But I'm not trained...at All! : )

Thanks for the vid jmc6000, i'm looking for a good basic belt driven washer...can you recommend one or two models to look at please? thank you

@jmc6000

8 жыл бұрын

+volkrt From GE model GTW460ASJWW or GTW485ASJWW are some good units.

@TheSkoto1

8 жыл бұрын

+volkrt most of the new washers are the same and pieces of SH##. If you can find you a good used center agitator machine go for it.

@yambo59

7 жыл бұрын

I agree, when my 40 year old GE filterflo's outer wash tub started rusting that's just what I did, I bought a commercial duty Speed Queen and its been an excellent machine. When you see how smooth and stable they are in the spin cycle you realize why they call them a Speed Queen-!

my machine would not spin or drain. removed sock from pump after replacing lid switch and back in service!

I have a circa 2008 Whirlpool World Washer ( portable, hooks up to taps etc) it's failed, it no longer goes into spin, sometimes, it tries to spin slowly, but also agitate at same time, just curious , I wonder what failed, I'd hate to scrap it , if repairable, but I don't know much about these things, on the good side, it was a amazingly good machine while it lasted, was used all the time, so definitely a high hour device

@jmc6000

Жыл бұрын

Well if it truly is from 2008 I believe you got your money's worth out of it and would consider moving onto a newer machine

@tony--james

Жыл бұрын

@@jmc6000 yeah, I think it's time for another one also,, , I know it's a 2008 machine, because that's when I bought used off Kijiji , in 2009, 14 years ago, , it's been here with me since, yup, it had a wonderful long life, edit: wow, I just found all the original paper work for it, previous owner filled out in manual, the Dealer's name and original purchase date of May 8th 2008, it has a model # LCR7244HQ2 and serial # VLP3309537

The mode shifter. Is the actuator. That's the name of the part adieu waiter. It governance over the RPMs.

Acually they clean better than the DD, plus they don't beat your cloths up in the process.

You can go to a1 appliance parts and its listed as a splutch!! I agree with you that the gearcase and splutch are one and the same! You could call it a mechanical converter box and it doesn't matter. As long as you know what it does! Period!!!!!

OK, I was refereing to the part inside or beyond the metal case is called the splutch, the part that has the oil in it. I guess Whrilpool gives it a part term called a "gearcase" and the plastic cam gears the the shifter controls are just that, plastic cam gears which have nothing to do with the splutch which is beyond the metal base. I have had the base apart and I have had one of the splutch's lose its oil on a customer's washer so I know what the parts are bud. I have had them open.

As long as there are plenty of older direct drive top loaders in the pre owned market, I will not touch one of these things with a 50 foot pole. I actually have both a front loader and a top loader (dd). Now, the direct drive that they use on the newer LG fronts and top loading 'Wave' machine with the 10 year motor warranty are interesting and will be paying closer attention to those.Too bad they have not yet to adapt that direct drive motor to a top loader with agitator design.

My GE washer which is approx. 6 years crapped out on Saturday. Long story short, had service tech come and inspect machine - transmission is shot. Question- what rip load washer brand do you recommend that will deliver performance and longevity. He said GE brand is at the bottom as far as reliability is concerned. Any advice regarding this issue would be helpful. Thanks

@jmc6000

2 жыл бұрын

My recommendation is s Samsung Top load belt drive. I currently have one and in the year of ownership I have had 0 issues.

@robertlombardi2228

2 жыл бұрын

@@jmc6000 that’s what I’m leaning towards. Do you have a model number I can use for reference?

@jmc6000

2 жыл бұрын

@@robertlombardi2228 yes the entry model is the WA45T3200 4.5cuft capacity

@robertlombardi2228

2 жыл бұрын

@@jmc6000 thanks

The water on my washer is not draining. How do I check if there is a problem with the pump? Can a sock or something else get stuck in there?

@jmc6000

9 жыл бұрын

I would check the pump for sure the washer needs to be flipped on its back with most of the water out and remove the pump to inspect what is going on. Make sure the drain hoses are clear as well.

@zarabenes4719

5 жыл бұрын

I have a amana its exactly the one on your vido. its not draining, pump is clear hoses are clear , what else can I do?

I just replaced my shift actuator today 12/20 and washer still won't spin! Any idea? Kenmore 110. 26002010

@edgu71eg

8 жыл бұрын

Also, no standing water left. Clothe just soaking wet and won't spin.

@jmc6000

8 жыл бұрын

+edgu71eg The hall sensor could be bad and if that hall sensor cannot sense movement when the drum is in spin mode it will thrown an error code and cause the drum not to spin.

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

yes I think spin actuator is not responsible for not spinning. problem is unbalance...so could be bearing or the balanccing rods

how do I get the bearings out where splauch is

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

you have to beat the shaft from the top. you have to remove the rods, then put the barrel on piece of wood so you have clearance between motor and the floor then you hit from top after removing the plastic cover. there should be a video. I'll look for it

I have this washer in a Maytag version and my problem is heavy gear OIL has leaked out of somewhere. Since the washer was almost done spinning when I noticed the oil smell, I let it finish uiots cycle. From what I see in your video, it is all dry. Even the SPLUTCH is just dry plastic gears so where is this oil coming from and how do I fix this washer? I have turned the washer on it side and about 2 tablespoons more oil has dripped out from around the belt cover. Any ideas or recommendations?

@jmc6000

10 жыл бұрын

The dry plastic gears you refer to are not the splutch. The splutch is beyond the metal cover behind those plastic gears. Whirlpool list the splutch as a gear case and must be replaced as one whole unit. The gear case, ie the "splutch," is what is leaking the gear oil and is non serviceable.

@johnkugie6976

10 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 Thanks +jmc; I got confused on what a 'splutch' was due to another video called "Splutch Assembly Replacement (part # W10315818)" and all he does is replace those plastic gears under the large pulley... I definitely need a new gear case and did NOT plan on repairing the old leaking one.. So, do you know how hard it is to replace the entire gear case and what the part # is? I found one potential part # W10324649 which I think may be correct. I will tear mine apart first and see if I can see an actual part # on my maytag gear case before ordering a new one. The other gamble is whether any other parts have been compromised due to having oil thrown all over them. For example: the motor, the plastic gears, the pulleys, or belt....... Any more info you have is appreciated.

@jmc6000

10 жыл бұрын

John Kugie Watch this video as this is the part you need; Transmission Replacement (part #W10473144) - Whirlpool Top-Load Washer Repair I would also replace the mode shift motor as well since I will bet the gearcase oil has reached the rpm sensor within the mode shifter.

@johnkugie6976

10 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 Thanks again +jmc. I do NOT have an agitator in my HE machine but everything else looks very similar. I finally found my machine model # online on a SEAR's Parts website with a parts diagram and ordered the correct gear case. I also got a new belt. Unfortunately, I ordered before getting your recommendation to get the mode shift motor but I may go back and get that also.

@johnkugie6976

10 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 I appreciate all your help. I should have said a short agitator instead of NO agitator but the video you suggested worked. I did have to use a gear puller to get the driven hub and the drive block off the gear case shaft due to electrolysis and corrosion. I also had to alter getting into calibration mode slightly in that I had to press and hold the start button and then immediately turn the cycle selector L-R-R-R-L-R to get the 5 LEDs to flash. I am still a bit disappointed in Maytag's "commercial" technology that lasted 3.5 years but the fix was great! It took me about 5 hours due to cleaning every nook and cranny with a tooth brush while I had it all apart. Still I saved at least $500 compared to the cost of a new similar washer at the best sale price. I consider that to be $100 per hour that I made repairing this washer and so WAY more than I have ever made per hour previously. Not too bad. JK.

i have the cabrio with the rotor and stator and in my opinion they wash better than the belt driven model

Didn't say what the capacitor does. It's a start capacitor that gives the motor a burst of power that gets the motor going.

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

yes. if capacitor is bad, motor won't start

@mooglemy3813

5 жыл бұрын

And it's a split cap. Allows the motor to reverse and start up in either direction. Caps are used for start up on many products FYI such as an air compressor without it the motors AC load would grip the breaker, just gives the motor a hard kick start on start up.

Maytag bravos washer makes rattling noise....abnormal noise...while shifting from wash spin mode to rinse agitate mode....wash plate abruptly jerks counter clockwise about half turn ...rattling stops and washer agitates upon completion of filling with water....main board ok....replaced actuator 2x...what’s the problem?...maybe the splutch?……

@kennyd9257

3 жыл бұрын

I replaced splutch...now it works fine

Make sure when you connect all the wires that it is unplugged for at least 15mins so it can reset.

@johne6081

6 жыл бұрын

15 mins. is longer than necessary, but you raise a valid point about reset. It is also crucial to run calibration after replacing any major mechanicals.

I have one that in agitation the motor only goes one direction it doesn't pause and go the other way it does slightly pause for a split second but instead of reversing direction continues on in same direction wrapping clothes around agitator and throwing water over the tub lip onto the floor I believe this is a timer issue am i correct ?

@jmc6000

9 жыл бұрын

Sounds like that could be the problem or the splutch is not working correctly and binding up.

@djnemesis82pluss1877

9 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 thanks for the reply I know its not the splutch. I have physically seen the motor goes by ways so I know it can. however when it goes to agitate instead of the motor reversing it just goes one direction throwing water out the tub and wrapping clothes around the agitator. I have noticed with a new control board that if I pause it and spin the agitator around by hand a few times that when I restart it sometimes it starts acting right. I know this is either the board or the motor im not positive on how it reverses the motor im wondering if it could be the motor or if its all control board doing it... its really weird

@jmc6000

9 жыл бұрын

djnemesis82pluss1877 Well the motor reverse by direction given to it from the control board. So if the control board is not sending the signal the motor will not do it. Unless the motor is binding up then after you should hear some kind of a power surge sound if the control tells the motor to go in reverse direction and is binding up and unable to do it.

@aarondugger3660

7 жыл бұрын

My washer is doing the same thing . Did you figure out what was wrong with it ? Control board Or splutch ?

@djnemesis82pluss1877

7 жыл бұрын

+Aaron Dugger the issue I had was the capacitor. Most common issue with these is pulley nut coming off. The actuator and the capacitor

what model is this one???

On my washer the belt is enclosed. Can someone show me how to get to the belt on mine?

@jmc6000

Жыл бұрын

You walk the belt on the big pulley after you have it the small motor pulley first

It is a noise filter.

The cold water is keeps running from washer ,have to close water valve from washer so it will not run amymore what can i do to stop it ?

@redlion9199

5 жыл бұрын

You need to replace the water inlet valve

I have one that is making a horrible noise. Cannot find anyone that knows what it might be.

"Very similar to the splutch on the world washer" that is because they are one in the same! Whrilpool may not have "labled" the part as a splutch but instead called it a "gearcase" they are still one in the same on this washer. If you take apart the plastic cam you will see what the inside of a splutch looks like.

@musiclvr7289 Acually the synchro motor drops down the top gear to engage the main puelly for spin and then lefts up that top gear away from the main pulley for wash. The splutch pretty much stay stationary this whole time, but does turn when the basket turns.

I am a service man and I am having a problem with this washer. The nut that holds the plastic pulley on keeps coming off. The motor pulley is plastic not metal. Any ideas why it is doing that ? Thank you

@jmc6000

10 жыл бұрын

2 words: red locktite.

@toddsaccagno2514

10 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 also needs 40 to 50 lbs of torque to tighten.

@jmc6000

7 жыл бұрын

i would add some blue lock tight to the threads and see if that helps.

my maytag washer drive belt does not stay on, or it shreds, I need Help!

@jmc6000

6 жыл бұрын

Troy Wright The motor may need to be adjusted as I would try that 1st.

@troyw1649

6 жыл бұрын

jmc6000 thank you! i will check for motor adjust ment

Unsure the size of that bolt but more than likley the threads are metric

@johne6081

6 жыл бұрын

The nut is actually 13mm. Everything else is SAE-threaded, from what I can tell.

I think you are talking about the plastic parts, but I am talking about the metal base.

any idea why ours is so loud when in spin mode?

@jmc6000

8 жыл бұрын

+James Schavey Possiably a bad drum bearing.

@jimmysally

8 жыл бұрын

+jmc6000 does this model have a drum bearing or is this a trans issue

@jimmysally

8 жыл бұрын

+James Schavey www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/11028002011/0582/0153200/K1203177/00004.html

i installed a new gearbox on this machine and boom !!! LOUD NOISE IN WASH CYCLE .. LIKE GEARS VERY NOISY

My parents have this washer in their house and since I live about 6000 miles away, I just can't take a video of it anytime soon.

You said that this platform doesn't have a transmission, but it actually does, it is the large metal base that everything is mounted to in your video, part W10324649. A common failure of this gearcase is a massive oil leak all over all the lower components.

@johne6081

6 жыл бұрын

Yup -- just had to replace my entire $100 transmission because the top bearing failed and is irreplaceable. (Nice job, Whirlpool engineering staff. :< )

Acually it is called a splutch and it is a one way splined clutch. Even though it has gears, four to be exact, but they are just staionary. They do not shift or engage like a "normal" transmission set of gears would do. The splutch or "gearcase" is no way a transmission. Like I said in the video look up what a splutch is and see for yourself.

Help folks! i have a whirlpool just like the one in the video. Electric is ok when switched on, it fills but DOES NOT wash. I've checked the belt it is intact. What could possibly be wrong ?

The internals of the transmission locaded above the splutch contain a step down planetary gear set inside a housing that operates to gear down the drive from the pulley it also splits the torque driving the agitator or wash impeller one direction and the drum the other while the washer is shifted into Agitate mode ., when the washer shifts the splutch which has a splined sleeve that locks into splines on the top of the drive pulley it direct drives the outer casing of the transmission bypassing its inner gears and spins the tub.. there is no tub brake so the washer must coast to a stop that's why the lid must lock (the mode shifter has a optical sensor that reads a toothed wheel in the transmission housing telling the washer control board the rotational speed of the drum) What does the gear case look like inside ? kzread.info/dash/bejne/fYSrus-ugtLHhqg.html

Washer wont spin. It starts to but stops All water is removed clothes are wet.

@crifix.

5 жыл бұрын

same mine...it starts spinning at lower speed but after 3 sec stops

these belt driven whirpool made washers are junk, older direct drive whirpool are reliable and last for years.

so what do you guys suggest to do if the washer just won't spin anymore, even after replacing all the parts? GARBAGE???

Thankyou for this. Could you make one where the camera isn't bouncing around?

The main gear and the top gear that connect to one another are plastic.

The transmission uses planetary drive.

but they still have to use the stupid duel action agitators.

Control panel not control board

I am a service tech. The pulleys fall off, the lid lock is crap,the actuator fails,If all this doesn't break the transmission leaks oil after 2-3 years.Whirlpool is only looking at making money this is not a good washer.Just look at the last 2 attempts Calypso,Cabrio,

I'm sorry I don't read or speak that so I'm not sure what you said.

All I see here is the ever increasing cheapening of washer mechanics, no transmission, lots and lots of breakable plastic parts in high load areas there should be metal, plastic outer tub instead of porcelain coated steel, circuit boards in a wet high vibration environment, and a light duty pump with its own tiny little motor that's bound to fail - pumps used to be driven off the main washer motor, extremely reliable for decades. The "splutch" has since proven to have a high failure rate and it makes horrendous noise when the plastic gears strip out. Sure glad I bought a Speed Queen, built to last 20 years and washes like moms old Maytag from the 60's.

@MetalingKid

7 жыл бұрын

The lid lock is a whole other scheme in itself besides crappy cheap parts... It's kinda "funny" how jmc600 says, "..pretty basic design..not alot can go wrong with this..." . -pfft

@Compwhiz128

7 жыл бұрын

isnt the lid lock just so the manufacturer does not have to place a tub brake on er?

@raymorrison5006

7 жыл бұрын

yambo59 check out the speed queen

Yeah I have one of those washers and the so-called transmission is a non-repairable sealed unit here is the part numberW11255272 for mine. It looks to me like they made a cheap washer that would cost a lot of money to repair. It looks to me that they build a cheap washer with expensive repair parts, knowing that it would only last a few years before the whole main 😂drive without. The main drive unit cost about 3rd of buying 170 dollars. I think the washer drive system would have been a good system if you could have replace the inner parts of the transmission unit. I may attempt a repair to the bearings of my unit just the only thing wrong was it, the problem being is a wilted both ends of the shaft that the bearing is on. Looks like I may have to cut the weld to replace the bearing. Then I'll have to win it all back up again. I'm hoping and praying I can do itso I don't have to spend $170 on a new unit which the marions only cost $7 on eBay the part number for the bearings are 6006-2RS.