We made all our basic drafts in school using the Helen Joseph-Armstrong blocks, which work well if you're using her standard measurement chart, but once you start trying to use your own measurements, things get a bit wonky. I've used it enough that if I'm using it to create a block for a client, I can usually end up with something workable that I can fit and adjust. It's that New Strap measurement that gets us every time, I swear! I also think her block insists on slightly too much ease. I also hope that in subsequent editions they've fixed that typos for that Cup Formula. That said, her pattern is easier to draft with bust adjustments made while you're drafting, instead of having to completely adjust after. Either way, that book is my absolute GO-TO for flat pattern manipulation, no doubt. I always prefer draping to drafting when I can get away with it, but if I have to draft, that's the book I'm going to. Joseph-Armstrong's Draping book is also a favorite. I like to drape when I can but sometimes drafting is unavoidable. A friend gifted me an old grading book I've occasionally found useful, "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff. For those wanting to do more interesting things with their sewing I recommend The Art of Manipulating Fabric, and all the Pattern Magic books. For those with an interest in historical patterns, I love Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion series, and those interested in historical corsets, I love "Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques" by Jill Salen, and "Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body" by Mandy Barrington. The latter has a bodice block draft and UK Measurement Chart of sizes 6-24. This block is used to recreate the historical patterns in the book in your own size, which I think is pretty nifty. Everything's in cm, so you if you're in the US you might need to draft using a computer program set in cm or invest in some metric rulers. I've been a professional alterations seamstress for nearly a decade now and yet I don't have any books on fitting. Would have been nice to have some of those when I was starting out but I've since learned it all just on the job! XD

Great Video. I just wanted to thank you for all your great insight and free information. There are few patternmaking instructors that offer the insight to make great patterns and teach fit and truing. These are very hard subjects to offer. You have a true gift. I wanted to wish you a Very Happy Holiday and say thank you. You motivate and inspire me every day.

as always, you are generous in sharing helpful information. I particularly appreciate your discussion of the limitations of different drafting instructions as I too have experienced similar issues - I just didn't understand what was wrong with my Winifred Aldritch sleeve!! However, using the sleeve drafting instructions you provided with your bodice course however ended up in the most perfect sleeve ever.

Love that you talked about repeatability!

Indeed too many measurements for Helen Armstrong. I couldn't pull through with her method for a personal fit. But her principles is great 😃

Your commentary of the books are really good I have couple of them

I was happy to see that I at least had the book with the Live Photos on pattern fitting!The Complete Guid to Perfect Fitting. I also have the book, How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn. I have the book by Suzi Furrer on drafting a moulage. The most recent one is by Gina Renee designs. I haven’t gotten into it a lot yet . I also have Kenneth Kings book on fitting where he has several different models and shows why he does to correct the fit on their muslins, Smart Fitting Solutions. I think your channel and a couple others are probably the best help I’ve found.

@sbaumgartner9848

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for your input. I agree that Alexandra offers an amazing amount of detail and clarification and her delivery is very calm and credible. I'm thinking of taking Gina Renee Designs dress form course rather than from Bootstrap Fashions.

@janeahrens572

11 ай бұрын

@@sbaumgartner9848 let me know how that goes. Like some of her stuff too and bought the fitting book a couple years ago.

No wonder I've struggled with the Helen Armstrong method!!

Good morning my dear love how u explain the drafting books I have the joseph hellen armstrong but the international edition I belive all of them carries the same way of drafting an I read it over an over at times an like it's comin up differently at times with lots of measures for real but easy to understand since it has that a to z draft which is helpful an adjustments to help fittings but all an all sometimes taking a class to help fixes little issues to help along the way but I love ur take on all the books for drafting some leave u hanging if u don't no an some have ur mind mix up hahaha but love u loads !

It's too bad each pattern-making/drafting/fitting book has it's pros and cons, each in different areas. I've heard other sewing channel authors say they have trouble making a basic sloper. I've tried a variety of slopers from other pattern makers and they all turn out different. Alexandra, I wish you'd write a book but I realize it would be a near herculean undertaking... but it would be very thorough and precise!