This has to be the best video on Paint Reduction on you tube. As always clear concise and easy to follow. Great job Mate.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Simon! I very much appreciate the kind words and support my friend!

@droghtak

8 ай бұрын

I totally agree, and I have watched a very large share!

This is amazing thank you! I’m new to this and the visual is just what I needed.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

great series. thank you

very informative. thanks for doing all the heavy lifting and being so precise in preparing the paints.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

By far the best explanation that I've found!

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Great video. I’m new to airbrushing and this made prefect sense.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Ive seen a lot of videos on reduction and this one has to be the best. Thanks for your great content

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

This video series is awesome, thank you so much.

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind words!

Thanks so much, clears up a lot of confusion

@wickedartstudio

9 ай бұрын

Thank you!

This helps a lot! I've been using the 4012 since beginning and lately i've been spraying with my Olympos 0.23 airbrush. I must say , even when I seem to over-reduce, my paint gets this gelly-effect. So I'm definatly gonna try the 4011 in hope it will spray better! I wrote everything down, even the ratios, so thank you very much for this vid!

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found the video helpful!

You rock. Thanks for taking the time to explain this. God bless.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thank you, very well explained. Just getting into airbrushing to paint my 3D prints I've been making and have been struggling with this exact problem, how much to thin. Really appreciate these videos, it's all much clearer now.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found the video helpful and I appreciate the kind words!

Excellent video, information delivered clearly. Thanks

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Fascinating information, all very interesting & important whilst I'm learning how to use my airbrush. What really shocked me was the slight if any in the strength of colour/ pigment from start to finish! Thank you & take care my friend 👍😷👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found the information fascinating and I appreciate the kind words my friend! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Great video! I was about to quit using createx, it clogged my airbrushes in no time, then I started to use 4011 and improved a little bit because I was following the manufacturer guidance but you're absolutely right! Going over the specifications work so much better. Now I'm getting more familiar with the reduction ratios but certainly this video helped me A LOT!!

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome! I'm glad it helped you out!

Thank you so much for making this tremendously helpful instructional video! It answered many of the questions I had about paint reduction, and it was done in clear, concise, and scientific manner.

@wickedartstudio

11 ай бұрын

I appreciate the kind words! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Thanks Trevor, very informative.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

thanks for your considerable effort in providing a very detailed demonstration of paint reduction. i think its applicable to reducing all types of airbrush paints. adjust your reduction until your satisfied.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! And I agree, the information is applicable to all types of airbrush paint.

Great information.I was struggling with alot of the basics when I started airbrush. This video cleared alot of confusion...Thanks man appreciate the videos

@wickedartstudio

8 ай бұрын

Thank you! I'm glad you found the content helpful and appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!

This is awesome 👏 I was so frustrated why the recommended 10% was not flowing smoothly 0 then spurt ok a while then 0 then spurt. Knowing from spraying lacquer with a spray gun that I always have to dilute the paint quite a bit I added quite a bit more reducer to the createx paint and it worked much better. Thanks for the detailed visual confirmation !!!

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Great informative video, you're an excellent teacher 💯

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Excellent video on paint reduction very informative thank you

@wickedartstudio

7 ай бұрын

Thank you so much!

Thank you for this. Great advice.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Great video. I am using the 1:1 mixture at around 25 psi and it does seem to work a lot better. I was having so much trouble before. I'm still learning. I get the occasional spidering which is my speed but I'm getting there. Thanks for this great video.

@wickedartstudio

5 ай бұрын

I'm glad you found my content helpful! Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Informative as always, thanks for sharing. I am still a rookie and thought that me having to pull back so far on the trigger was a me problem and not a paint problem. This really helps.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

It could also be an issue with your airbrush. Do the water test to be sure everything is working correctly. Make sure your air pressure is set correctly where you want it. If all of that checks good, you'll likely do better with a little more reduction in your paint. We're all a little bit different. Find the balance that works for you! The information I've shared in these videos will hopefully help you find that balance a little easier.

@Jarhead1313

3 жыл бұрын

I wish I had came across these videos when I first started, I wasted so much money on crappy airbrushes thinking the problem was me and that maybe airbrushing just wasn't my thing. I about gave up,until my wife surprised me with an Iwata Revolution and a Neo TRN2 for my birthday and the difference was night and day. Now a year and 2 more Iwata airbrushes later I'm selling custom painted RC bodies.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@Jarhead1313 Good equipment definitely makes a huge difference!

@Jarhead1313

3 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio Most definitely!

Great video and thanks for the info.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Don!

Good Info. ANYTHING that helps you cut down on the time it takes to learn is valuable, now you still gotta do it folks on your own equipment but you just cut down a lot of experimenting.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Very true. Thanks for the kind words.

Great video. Thank you learned alot

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

thank you for this Video

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Doing the one drop at a time reduction I find the reducer drops not only smaller than the paint drops but also more consistent size so I go for a 2/1 mix two drops reducer to one paint and that sprays well Great information video Trevor stay safe stay healthy from the great white north Good Day eh

@NEB3310

3 жыл бұрын

good point about the reducer drop size vs. the paint drop size. I hadn't even considered that aspect of the procedure.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Yes. I've noticed the same and intended to bring that up in the video... Sometimes I forget. Thanks for pointing that out Rob and I'm glad to hear a 2:1 ratio is working well for you!

Thanks for your useful video I use Harder infinity airbrush, 0,15 - 0,2 - 0,4 - 0,6 mm I will do your test just now Thanks again Kind regards

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Thanks Trevor

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Richard!

Thanks for taking the time with this great demonstration. I'm new to airbrushing and have been having issues with the Wicked colors. This really helps, I will try your tips. Sub'd to your channel and will check out more of your tips

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! I'm glad to have you as a subscriber!

I admit I'm a drop counter. I use Vallejo airbrush thinner, mainly because I have had horrid results from the created reducers. I guess it's because I'm inpatient and can't let paint sit. I aslo mix in my airbrush cup. I do appreciate your explanation of the ratios.

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

There's nothing wrong with counting drops if that's what works for you. Allowing the paint to sit isn't as important when using an airbrush. It really comes into play when using a spray gun though. If I'm honest, I don't always allow my paint to sit for 10 or 15 minutes either. Sometimes I just don't have the time to wait.

THANK YOU !!!!!

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

You're very welcome. Thank you for watching!

I find counting drops gets me pretty close. Great demonstration!

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, counting drops is very accurate, provided I don't get distracted and lose count... And that happens to me a lot :).

@dustinsmartfishing

2 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio I mostly paint fishing lures so I use very little paint at a time but I could definitely see it getting out of hand if I were working on bigger projects.

this made perfect damn since... ..👍🏾

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thank you, great video. The dilution ratios from the 4011 bottle don't seem right for all colors. This is a great breakdown for finding a workable ratio.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words!

As a chemist may I recommend weighing the mixtures; accurate scales are cheap online and the results are far more consistent, also no cleaning involved. Sure, the ratio will be difference due to the difference in density between paint and thinners, but that is of no consequence, as it's just a case of finding the correct weight ratio that works at the pressure that you've chosen. Each airbrush will have a published sweet spot, so set the pressure inside that range that suits the work that you are doing. For example, I might want the Micron set to a lower pressure so I can go in really close for the finest of fine lines without the air drying out the paint too quickly, either on my model or on the tip. For my work as a railway modeller I'm using an Eclipse at 25psi (trigger open) and a Micron equivalent at 18psi (trigger open) and then I dial in the ratio that works using the excellent method shown in the presentation. I also do the same for primers through the Eclipse, this time raising the pressure to 30psi (trigger open). Once I have found the ratios that I want these become fixed recipes and I won't change them again. After that in order to compensate for day-to-day variations in temperature and humidity I fine-tune the regulator pressure setting to achieve the same results. For my thinner solution I use a 10% flow improver additive to break the surface tension of water based paints (Vallejo) and then add it to the paint as if it is pure thinners - hope that makes sense. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and for the excellent presentation, such a naturally gifted teacher. Superb. 👏

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

I completely agree that weighing the mixtures would be far more consistent and accurate. In fact, that's how manufacturer paint codes are read and mixed in the automotive industry, by weight, because accurately matching a factory color for a repair is very important. There are times when I actually do use a scale to keep track of how I've mixed a one-off custom color so that I can accurately match it again in the event a repair is ever needed. For the day-to-day environment I work in, using a scale to measure everything would become monotonous and time consuming for me personally. With time and experience you'll develop the knowledge and the "feel" to an extent that making small adjustments becomes almost second nature. So, while this method may not be something I want to incorporate on a daily basis, others will likely find it very helpful. Thank you for sharing your experience with all of us and I really appreciate the kind words!

I'm switching to 4011 reducer!! I've been using 4012 and it seems to gel up way too fast. Great video.

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

Awesome! Thank you!

Great video. What do you recommend for a .5mm. Bottles usually say 10% @ 30psi. Thanks Trevor.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Paul! I still use the same... roughly 40 to 50 percent. If that mixture will spray through a .35 and a .18 mm, it will spray through a .5 mm no problem.

Very Informative as always, thanks Trevor! Question. Do these ratios work with the Candy2o line as well? I heard you say "all" Createx lines, but you didn't mention Candy. Thanks!

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Candy2o is a concentrate which makes it slightly different. You need to mix candy2o with a carrier first (either the 4030 Balancing Clear, or the UVLS Clear - the new UVLS clear is what I prefer). Mix the candy2o with the carrier at about the same 1:1 ratio. Stir well for a minute or two and then add your reducer. I still use about a 1:1 ratio in the end. So, the sum of what you wound up with after mixing the candy2o and the carrier equals one part. I would add roughly the same amount of 4011 to keep the ratio at about 50% per volume. Does that make sense?

@BrianTelleraineCarson

3 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio perfect, thanks!

I use 1 to 1 and it works great for me. I’m like you what is the consistency of milk. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS. I have been airbrushing since the 70’s but I have got a few tips from your videos when I started airbrushing I used lacquer paint and didn’t have the problems with lacquer that I have with water based paint. I have a Paasche VL siphon feed and I don’t use it very much I have 2 Iwata Eclipse they are my work horses I also have a Iwata CM- SB side feed micron. And thank you for your videos

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

I appreciate the kind words Joe! Water-based paint is a whole different animal compared to lacquer and even urethane. There is a learning curve. Once you get it figured out, it becomes a lot easier!

I started airbrushing three months ago and this video was a huge help to me. Since doing as you explain I haven't had any more problems with "normal" createxes. Thank you! I watched several of your videos to find out what is the correct procedure to use metallic colors. Do you explain it somewhere?

@wickedartoff-road8441

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you've found my content helpful! I don't think I have a video that talks specifically about spraying a metallic through the airbrush. It's basically the same procedure; however, I would recommend using a brush with a 0.5 mm needle and fluid nozzle (the same applies for a pearl). You can get away with using a 0.35 mm, but it can be frustrating because the metallic flakes will tend to clog the brush frequently.

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

I didn't realize I was logged into my other account when I initially replied. I apologize for that.

Excellent work!!!! A few questions for you; What do you think about tossing a bb into the paint container to help stir up the paint? If you have leftover paint in the cup, do you toss that paint back into the paint container? Any thoughts on using Fantastik household cleaner as a reducer and cleaner? Keep the great information coming!!! Thanks; Tony

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! At one time, Createx included a marble in their paint bottles from the factory. I've noticed no difference shaking the bottles without the marble since they no longer include it. If you do add something, I'd only use an item that won't rust. I generally mix my paint in 2 ounce plastic cups (they come with lids that seal very well). When I have leftover paint I keep it in the 2 ounce cup. I do not add leftover paint back into the original bottle unless nothing has been added to it (reducer, trans base, 4030, or any other additive). In the very early days of the Createx water-based line, the Fantastic trick worked great. It can still be used as a cleaner (I personally use Formula 409 for cleaning all the time); however, the reducers and other additives Createx has developed over the years are far better than Fantastic now. I recommend using the Createx reducers.

@Exitwoundstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Wicked Art Airbrush Studio Thanks for the informative answers. Another question; Do you use a tip cleaning drill, as in cleaning the tips of a gas welder, to clean an airbrush nozzle? Thanks again.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@Exitwoundstudio I do not and I wouldn't recommend trying it. The nozzle is generally made of brass or soft aluminum. The metal is thin and easy to damage. When a nozzle requires deeper cleaning, I remove the nozzle from the brush and let it soak in a cleaning agent (I really like Createx Restorer if you're using water-based paint) for 30 minutes to an hour. Depending on the size of the nozzle, I will then use an old airbrush needle or a dental brush. I run the needle or the brush through the nozzle several times to dislodge any remaining paint inside. After that, I reassemble the brush and spray water through it to be sure everything is working correctly.

Loving your video's they really explain things for me, Could you tell me why T-shirt painters use way higher pressure and way thicker paint, I tried this with my evolution crPlus gravity fed with a .4 needle but it really doesn't want to work for me, so my question: why do they do that and can I get away with simply thinning my paint instead on T-shirts :)

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind words Kay! I've been away for a while, so I apologize for the late reply. T-shirt artists use a higher pressure (usually in the range of 40 to 60 psi) because they're painting fabric. The higher pressure forces the paint into the little woven strands which makes the artwork far more durable compared to just painting the surface of the fabric. You can get away with using thicker paint at higher pressure because the higher pressure helps push the paint through the brush. T-Shirt artists generally use siphon fed brushes as well (siphon fed brushes normally require slightly higher pressure to run compared to gravity fed brushes because they are sucking the paint out of the bottle rather than letting gravity do some of the work). Siphon fed brushes hold more paint, they generally have a larger needle and nozzle and it's easy to switch from one color to another even if you don't have multiple brushes (if you have multiple bottles anyway). You can still reduce your colors, but it's not necessary to reduce them nearly as much when working at higher pressures, as well as a larger needle/nozzle. Higher air pressure also creates more overspray, but the fabric of the shirt tends to hide that better than a very smooth surface. All of the above is very common for a traveling, or a tourist attraction airbrush artist, the artist you will see in a kiosk somewhere grinding out designs within minutes. Time is money. There is another way... If you're more interested in creating art on t-shirts that doesn't have to be finished in minutes, I would suggest spraying the area you intend to paint with a transparent base first. I normally use a higher air pressure for this first step to really get the paint into the woven fabric of the shirt just like you would in the above scenario. You can reduce the transparent base some if needed, but don't overdo it. You want to build a good base layer to begin your painting on. Once the area you intend to paint has been sufficiently coated with transparent base, put it in a heat press set at about 325 degrees for 10 to 15 seconds. The heat will dry the transparent base and lay down all of the little fibers sticking up on the shirt giving you a very nice, smooth surface to airbrush on. Lower your air pressure where you prefer it, reduce your paint how you prefer and begin painting like you normally do. The transparent base layer puts paint into the fabric of the shirt which provides durability. Once it's been set with heat, it also provides a very nice surface to work on. Does that make sense?

Situation : You've mixed too much paint & decide to store it in one of your lidded cups . How do you feel about adding a retarding agent to the paint to extend the shelf life of the paint during storage ? Does the retarder affect how the paint flows through the airrush ? I use a home made glycerine / glychol / water home made ( 45/45/10 % ) concoction that I use with regular paint brushes for acrylic lanndscapes .

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Peter! This is a great question! I can't answer whether or not adding a retarding agent to the paint will affect spray characteristics because I've never used a retarding agent with Createx paint. Having said that... Based on my experience, adding a retarding agent is not needed with Createx in my opinion. Although Createx (and pretty much any other paint manufacturer for that matter) recommends against storing reduced paint for extended periods of time, Createx products don't seam to suffer from the common issues normally encountered with storing reduced paint. I'm not sure how long you're thinking about storing your colors when too much paint is mixed, but I've successfully stored mixed colors in those little plastic cups for up to three months (maybe a little longer - I've never kept really good track) without issue. The biggest issue with storing reduced paint is the reducer will evaporate over time even with a good seal. The paint and binder is not affected in my experience. When that occurs, I simply add a little more reducer to the mix and continue painting. The only time I've noticed the mixture thicken up due to the reducer evaporating is when I've kept mixed paint in a bottle for a long period of time though (more than a year). Using a less aggressive reducer should also extend the storage life in theory (I've not tested this out personally though). 5618 Airbrush Cleaner would be the least aggressive reducer in the Createx line followed by 4011, 4012, 4013 and 4020. 5618 doesn't contain the alcohol and other chemicals found in the other options which I would think would make it evaporate at a much slower rate.

Would you still recommend reducing Auto Borne sealers 1:1 with 4011 Thank you

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Pete! I don't recommend reducing a sealer that much because overreduction will significantly reduce how well a sealer covers. I generally only shoot a sealer through a spray gun, and I normally reduce AutoBorne Sealers between 10 to 20 percent. You can, and will likely need to, reduce a sealer more than that in order to spray it through an airbrush. Just realize it will take more coats to get complete coverage.

Is there any difference in painting metal vs paper? Does the type of paper make a difference? What type of paper is best for airbrushing? Thank You for the fantastic instructions!

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

That really depends on the paper. All paper (with the exception of synthetic paper) will absorb liquid to some extent (metal obviously does not). Some papers will absorb more than others though. I prefer a heavy paper. Somewhere in the range of 80 to 100 pound sheets work very well for airbrushing in my opinion. You might also try one of the synthetic papers available. Some artists really like working with the synthetic papers. Thank you for the kind words my friend!

Thanks for the video finally someone has explained "the Milk" in better terms and visual. I only wish I could come get a lesson from you!!! I just started airbrushing and have started with Wicked line of paints. So my questions would be.... I keep getting spider webs if I'm trying to do small detail. Why is that happening? Too thin?? Not enough pressure? Or combo? My psi is set at about 20 to 25. One other question... is a regular compressor fine or do you absolutely need to buy the special airbrush compressors?? Thanks the videos!!!!

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Terri. Your spider web issue is likely a combination between your air pressure and reduction ratio. You haven't found that happy spot where everything works yet. I would suggest doing something similar to what I did in these videos. Find a scrap surface that is the same, or close to same surface you plan to paint your artwork on, leave you're air pressure set at around 25 psi and mix different ratios of paint and reducer to test. Run each ratio through your brush painting various lines and a gradated fade to see which reduction ratio works the best for you and your conditions. When you find the ratio that works the best you can begin fine tuning things if needed. And yes, you can absolutely run an airbrush with a regular air compressor. You just need to adjust the air pressure regulator to the pressure you want to use with your brush.

@NannaQueensCrafts

3 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudioI so appreciate you taking the time to write me back. Thank You!! I did the opposite kept same ratio but changed air pressure. I will definitely try same psi and change ratio.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@NannaQueensCrafts You're very welcome! The reason I produce these videos is to try and help others. Without people like you, I'm just a guy talking to a camera. I try to reply to all comments left on my videos. It may take me up to a week at times to get caught up, but I will reply. Either method works. I do prefer changing my reduction ratio to find the right combination as opposed to changing my air pressure setting though. The reason behind that is I rarely adjust my air pressure. It pretty much stays set at about 26 or 27 psi for the vast majority of what I do. Different colors within the same brand can vary in viscosity as well. One color might require a little more or a little less reduction compared to another.

I'm new to airbrushing and got a I don't know if it's considered a cheap or a knockoff zmkmeureka airbrush gun....I don't know anything about name brands far as airbrush guns go....but what is the difference between the 2 guns you was using....and how compatible would they be to the one I have so I know how much to reduce the paint in mine to get a good paint flow?

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

Hi Keith! The airbrush you have is not a name brand. I can't speak to how good it is, or isn't, because I have no personal experience with that airbrush. The difference between the two brushes I was using in this video is stark. The Eclipse is an all-around airbrush that excels at a lot of things. It has a 0.35 mm needle and nozzle, which is mid-range as far as airbrushes are concerned (it will cover a larger area faster than the Micron). The Eclipse is also on the lower end of the scale pricewise. As I said, the Eclipse does a lot of things well, and in the hands of an experienced airbrush artist, it is capable of very fine detail. The Micron I was using is designed and built for precision. It has a 0.23 mm needle and nozzle set, which is on the dividing line between a mid-range airbrush and a detail airbrush. Due to the smaller needle and nozzle size, the Micron won't cover a large area quite as fast compared to the Eclipse. Where the Micron really shines is fine detail and control. The Micron is manufactured as a precision piece of equipment. It will spray paint at different viscosities better than the Eclipse (as seen in the video) due to the precision manufacturing process. The downside is, there is a cost associated with a precision airbrush. They are not inexpensive. Having said that, I use one of my Eclipse airbrushes a lot more often than I use any of my Micron's.

Love the content and the videos, thank you so much! Just a bit of confusion with the ratios, maybe I misunderstand... You say 10% relates to a 9:1 ratio, shouldn’t this be 10:1? Or are you referring to the final volume of paint being mixed? I see it as 10ml paint and 1ml reducer which will give 11ml final volume. I am not trying to nit pick on small issues and in the end it is all about what works, just making sure I understand correctly

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

It's all good my friend - Thank you for the kind words! Technically, when mixing ratios "per volume" as Createx recommends, the correct ratio is 9:1 for a 10% mix. However, using a 10:1 mix is perfectly acceptable. The difference is negligible. Don't put too much thought into it.

@heinrichhelmbold419

3 жыл бұрын

Wicked Art Airbrush Studio One thing I have learnt from you is that you need to get a feel for things that work instead of going by the book and I really appreciate it.

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@heinrichhelmbold419 Exactly! I'm a big proponent of learning the rules before trying to break them. At the end of the day, you have to find what works for you though! And most of the rules can be broken.

Is trying to airbrush outside in 30°F a bad idea? Will the cold itself cause issues with my paint or compressor? I'm just starting out and outside is the only place I have to paint

Would you use a 1:1 on a hard substrate like metal

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

Not only would I, but I do use a 1:1 ratio on hard surfaces on almost a daily basis. A 1:1 ratio is what I normally prefer unless I'm using an opaque color and need faster coverage.

I'm kind of new to this so I have a question. The 4011 reducer is just a thinner if I understand it correctly. So it would be the same as thinning the paint down with water that you are left with less acrylic binder in the paint and thus a weaker paint film?

@wickedartstudio

4 ай бұрын

I apologize for my late reply. You are correct... to the best of my knowledge anyway. Allow me to explain. Createx water-based paint is obviously, water-based. So, Createx water-based paint already contains a percentage of water. Exactly how much water it contains, along with exact amounts of all the other ingredients, is a proprietary secret. I can say, based on my own experience, that the formulations in the Createx water-based paint system have changed numerous times over the last sixteen to eighteen years (that's how long I've personally been using their products). I'm not sure I would say thinning their paint down with water is the same as thinning their paint down with 4011 Reducer. Here's why... Createx doesn't recommend using water alone to reduce their paint because it already has water in the mix. As you mentioned, adding more water will dilute the binder and leave you with a weaker paint film. According to the Createx TDS sheets, that can cause delamination issues. I primarily work in the custom automotive field and I'm not willing to experiment on a paying job if it could lead to that job coming back due to delamination (or any other problem). So, I have always chosen to use their reducers with my paint when it comes to paid work. Having said all of that, I have experimented with using distilled water (again, I primarily work in the custom automotive field, I choose distilled water to minimize introducing contaminates into my work because contaminates can also cause delamination and other issues) on several minor projects over the years. What I've personally observed is more pigment migration when using water to over reduce paint compared to using Createx Reducer. Pigment migration is not necessarily a bad thing, depending on the effect one might be trying to achieve, but it's not necessarily ideal either. Whether or not that would or could've caused delamination or other issues is unknown because those have all been test panels that weren't subjected to a clear coat and the elements for extended periods of time after the final clear was applied. I have used Createx 4011 Reducer to over reduce their paint... by a lot... as much as 300 percent... I do that quite often on paying jobs, and to date I've never had anything come back with a problem (knock on wood). So, is that practice reducing the binder and creating a weaker overall paint film too? I can't see how it's not, but I'm not a chemist either. Perhaps there's more going on than I understand. I can say I haven't observed the same pigment migration issues using Createx reducer that I have seen using distilled water. In conclusion, I would say if you're just practicing or mainly doing fine art, go for it. There's a mantra that I've always lived by in the custom paint industry. Rules are made to be broken, but one must learn and understand the rules before one can begin to break them successfully (like over reducing a paint by as much as 300 percent with reducer).

@gregory6488

4 ай бұрын

Thanks for taking the time to clear this out, it was very helpfull.@@wickedartstudio

@wickedartstudio

4 ай бұрын

@@gregory6488 You bet!

its funny because most artist i follow like cory st clair super over reduces all they paint ? is that for control or for layer build up,?

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

In my opinion, yes. I get better control with more reducer (provided the air pressure is also set to compensate for the thin paint). Working with very thin paint also allows the artist to build more depth and dimension in their artwork through layers. The thin paint is very transparent allowing you to see through each layer rather than covering up detail and texture previously created on underlying layers. Does that make sense?

Great video! Dont understand why the Micron with a small 0.18 nozzle paints the 10% (thickest sample) better that the Eclipse 0.35 nozzle at the same pressures. that goes against what is expected as a bigger nozzle is for thicker paint usually... ?? Createx does recommend that the opaque line can be sprayed direct out of bottle with a 0.5 nozzle at 35psi.. so losts variables, but it is normally given that a bigger nozzle sprays thicker paint better at a given pressure... strange ..

@wickedartstudio

5 ай бұрын

You are correct in assuming a larger size needle/nozzle combination should outperform, or at least perform at the same level of a brush with a smaller needle/nozzle set. However, that is rarely true when comparing any other airbrush to a Micron. A Micron is truly a precision airbrush. They are engineered to operate far more efficiently compared to less expensive alternatives. The tolerances are tighter. The head cap and nozzle are machined as one assembly. The extra attention to detail in the design and manufacturing process creates a brush that performs exceptionally under various conditions. This is one of those instances where you get what you pay for rings true. Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

If using 20% of 4030 mixed with the paint first, then would you recommend 40% of 4011 on top of the 4030/paint mix or would it be less, maybe around 30%? Great video by the way!

@wickedartstudio

9 ай бұрын

Ideally, you want to use the least amount of reducer possible. The percentage of reduction will vary depending on the airbrush you're using and what you're trying to achieve (fine detail versus simple coverage). I would start by adding around 20 to 30 percent reducer to your 4030/paint mix. Allow that to sit for 10 to 15 minutes once stirred and test how it sprays. You can increase the air pressure setting some if atomization is not ideal for simple coverage. If you're working on finer details, you can add additional reducer if needed as opposed to increasing pressure.

@JohnnyCombat

9 ай бұрын

Thanks!!

I use to use 4012 for my auto air or wicked paints now I use 4011 tell me something is 4012 no good for mixing i find it gums up my airbrush

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

I've had issues with 4012 reducer as well and stopped using it as a reducer some time ago because of those issues. I now use 4012 as a cleaner only.

@JohnPol

3 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio ok good to know I had the same problem it would spray great than gummed up my gun

cuantas onzas de pintura es 10 por coento

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

Depende del volumen de pintura con el que empieces antes de añadir el diluyente. Una reducción del 10 por ciento es 9 a 1, o 1 parte de reductor por 9 partes de pintura (9 gotas de pintura por 1 gota de reductor).

If I wanted just a capful of paint how will I reduce that

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

You can count drops of paint and reducer and mix them directly in the airbrush cup or whatever cap you are using. Personally, I don't like to count drops because I'll get distracted and lose count. It's excruciating in my opinion to sit there and count paint drops. It's not so bad if you're mixing up a very small amount, but sometimes two or three drops come out of the bottle instead of one. It's not an inherently accurate method. Alternatively, you can add a little bit of paint and a little bit of reducer, mix that up and see how it sprays. If it needs to be reduced a bit more, you can add another drop or two. If it needs to be thickened up a bit, you can add another drop or two of paint. Make sense?

@sll-tt6bj

2 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio yes that makes sense thanks a lot

Ok 4011 1.1 what about 4030 to this mix

@wickedartstudio

3 жыл бұрын

When I add 4030 I'm usually in the 10 to 20 percent range per volume. I also prefer to add 4030 to the paint prior to reducing the mix with 4011 because 4030 is thicker,

how many ounces is 5 percent

@wickedartstudio

Жыл бұрын

It depends on the volume of paint you start with before adding reducer. A 5 percent reduction is 19-to-1, or 1 part reducer to 19 parts paint (9 drops of paint to 1 drop of reducer).

I'm confused as to how a smaller needle (0.18) sprays the same ratio paint better than the larger (0.35) needle. If it's not thinned enough for the 0.35 I would think it would barely pass through a smaller tip and clog it.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

The airbrush with the smaller needle (an Iwata Micron) is a precision airbrush. Manufacturing tolerances are tighter and the fluid head system parts are machined and/or lapped together from the factory. The attention to detail during the manufacturing process yields a brush that simply outperforms the less expensive brushes. Whether the cost for that extra precision is worth it or not is obviously up to the buyer, but there is a difference. The airbrush with a larger needle (an Iwata Eclipse) doesn't get the same attention to detail during the manufacturing process because it's more of an entry level product. The Eclipse is still a great brush in my opinion. I highly recommend it! I use one for about ninety percent of what I do. It does have limitations though.

@seismojones

2 жыл бұрын

@@wickedartstudio Thanks for the explanation. I have the Eclipse HP-CS as well. I don't have a precision brush *yet*.

@wickedartstudio

2 жыл бұрын

@@seismojones One of the questions I get frequently as an instructor is whether one should buy an expensive, detail oriented airbrush or not. I don't necessarily attempt to talk artists out of that purchase, but I do suggest they don't rush into it. It makes better sense in my opinion to spend your hard earned money on other more important tools in the beginning (a good air compressor for example). As I mentioned before, there is a difference between the expensive airbrushes compared to the less expensive brushes. Having said that, an artist won't likely notice any difference between the two until they've put in the practice time to really develop their fundamental skills. Once those skills have been developed, you'll probably be surprised by the amount of detail that can be achieved from a less expensive airbrush with a larger needle/nozzle.