Regardless of age, this channel and your sister channel have been invaluable in filling the knowledge gaps when transitioning from the wussy bix box compressors to a serious shop unit and all the working parts. 👍👍

Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome. Grade: A++💥

Hello I have a question what type of oil should I use for the motor and what type for the pump on a emglo

You have such a cool powerful radio voice :D

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

We appreciate that Mark! We will tell Eric, I'm sure he'll be glad to hear that.

Have a Jenny 30 gallon with gx390 Honda engine. Won’t idle up when I flip the unloader valve, replaced it but didn’t fix it . It’s building pressure when it’s in the unload position. Bad throttle control valve ?

Hey how you doing.. I have a emglo compressor.. on one of the pump head is blowing air back out through the intake filter.. I replaced all the valves.. intake and exhaust.. also unloader valves.. gaskets, and still blowing air out through the filter.. don't know what else it could be.. if you or anyone else can help would be great.. thank you.

I've got a hulk brand. it will build up. pressure but want let air out of the hose. I'm not crazy, got everything hooked up, power and all. would it be the pressure switch?

Hi , I need help with my Craftsman Industrial 33 gal air compressor. Its supposted to run on a 15 amp plug but I had an electrician wire a dedicated 20amp plug in my garage. The compressor will start up just fine and run for a few refills and will then blow the house 20 amp breaker. I can here the hiss when it makes it to 150 psi stop . I always drain the tank after use. As for age its maybe 7-10 years old. when it does run it's super quiet and no squeaks.

@MasterToolRepair

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Ed, your problem is most likely the tank check valve. Here is a link to a great video to hopefully assist you with your issue mastertoolrepair.com/how-to-test-check-valve-p-22524.html Please let us know if this helps!

Great video! I have a problem with a central pneumatic (Harbor Freight) 29 gal oil lubed unit that will build pressure fine until it reaches ~100 psi then it starts to "strain"/"lugs" and motor( single phase induction 120v) begins making some "ticking/clicking" noises and unless i turn it off at this point it will trip the breaker in the panel( never the motor reset). I've replaced the run cap-(did not fix). Tank check valve is a simple spring pushing a rubber disc aided by tank back pressure to seal and seems ok( no visible signs to indicate faulty and no air leaks from anywhere when tank pressurized).Unit is supposed to cut out at 150 and back in at 120. What do you suspect the problem could be?

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the question and for watching! It could be an issue with the on/off pressure switch contacts, I would take the cover off of the switch and clean the contacts as they may be corroded. Otherwise, the motor may simply be drawing too many amps so you may want to have the motor checked out by an electrician. It seems you did right by testing/replacing the capacitor and if the tank check valve is working, no issue there. The only other problem that could cause this is if the valves in the pump are obstructed with debris, making the pump labor. But, you would think it would trip the reset switch on the motor first if this was the case.

Could you show how dual control works? I have a quincy compressor on another style tank and controls most likely from the 80's its a constant run unit. The manual valve is missing on my unloader, so im going to replace that. Can i just plumb in a line and a shut off to a pressure switch to the motor. Flip the switch one way and have constant run. Flip the switch the other and have it shut off when it reaches pressure. (Start, stop)?

@MasterToolRepair

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Lucas. Essentially yes, this is how you would go about setting the unit up for dual control operation. You can actually check out a diagram of a dual control setup by clicking on the below link: www.mastertoolrepair.com/images/Dual%20Control.pdf Hopefully this gives you some good information to go on. Let me know if you have any additional questions!

I have the older gas type of the emglo but I want to changed it to electric power howcan I do that

The Check valve going into tank has a black pipe coming out going into the power box do you know what that is for my compressor will full up but when it shuts off air comes out the end in power box and won't stop

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

The problem you're experiencing certainly sounds like a defective check valve. If any air leaks out of the tank after the unit shuts off, the check valve is stuck open (or the valve itself as fallen into the tank). It sounds like you're referring to the on/off pressure switch, which may be installed into a manifold which is on top of the check valve.

Hi, great video my atlas copco ga5 air compressor is having a problem. Element exit temperature is above normal, please how can i fix that?

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the post! I'm not too knowledgeable about the rotary screw units so I can only guess, I'm afraid. Does the unit have a refrigerated dryer or air cooler? It could be that there is a blockage in the outlet, increasing outlet air temperature. However, I'd recommend downloading a trouble-shooting guide for this air compressor on the manufacturer's website, which you can visit by clicking on the below link: www.atlascopco.com/en-us/compressors/resources

I have the same emglo wheelbarrow type gas air compressor with the 4 cylinder v pump. Do u know what that air line is that goes from the top of the head to the oil tank? I just can’t understand why downloader would go through the head and then into the oil

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the question! The line you're referring to is the Unloader Line. The end that connects to the front of the pump's crankcase is the centrifugal unloader assembly. When the unit reaches max pressure and kicks down to idle speed, this unloader valve is activated and air travels through it to the pump head to open the brass unloader valves, which causes the air to bypass the pump's valve system while idling (the air that is compressed while it idles unloads into the atmosphere). When the units kicks back into the loaded position, the unloader valves close so that the exhaust valves activate to continue compression to fill the air tank. Hopefully this gives you a helpful explanation!

Hey guys my compressor is tripping the house 15amp breaker. 2hp 120v 15a doerr (1995)... will not start with anymore than 5-10psi in tank, anymore and it cant get going and pops. I've replaced the start and run caps, check valve seems operational with a full tank, unloaded seems to do the normal hiss, with belt removed motor works perfectly, and pump spins with, minimal resistance and pressure switch cuts off at 125 and kicks on at 90 as it should. I'm lost. Please help guys! What do I need to buy? Thanks in advance!!

@MasterToolRepair

6 жыл бұрын

A couple of questions: 1. What is the make and model number of your unit? 2. Did this unit run on this house circuit before and now it is just starting to do this? 3. Are you using an extension cord? If so, and the motor pulls 15A, I would recommend plugging it directly in the outlet without an extension cord to see if it is doing the same. 4. Have you checked the starter switch in the end of the motor bell? There are weights attached to two weights. If one of the springs is missing or slipped off, it will not engage your start capacitor. 5. Draining all of the air from the tank and removing the check valve, is there a screen in the top of the check valve that is supposed to filter the air? If so, remove it. 6. With the check valve removed, is there debris in the bottom of the check valve clogging the exhaust holes.

I ordered a sight glass kit for my husky pro compressor. It came in 2 parts. No instructions. How do the parts go together?

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

If you have a model number for the compressor or part number we can assist you better, but typically you would just press the sight glass into the metal (or brass, or steel) threaded portion. I can also give you the manufacturer's contact info (depending on who made this particular unit for Husky/Home Depot) if you can give me the model number, as one of their service reps can certainly give you more detail. Thanks!

Oil is leaking through the air breather of our air compressor. I have sealed it with wax. Would you please advise?

@MasterToolRepair

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the question, Ehsan. You do NOT want to plug the oil breather or cover it, it needs to vent into the atmosphere. That being said, if you're getting oil from the top of the breather, it's probably due to one of three reasons: 1) Too much oil in the crankcase 2) Valves in the pump are sticking 3) Air is back-feeding from the tank due to a faulty Check Valve Most likely, you have a Valve or Valves sticking in the pump. If this is happening, you'll have too much pressure built up in the crankcase, which will cause oil to leak out of the breather. Are you getting strong suction when you put your finger or hand in front on the intake filter? If you don't get strong suction, you certainly have a Valve issue and probably need to replace the Valves and related Gaskets in the pump.

Hi my Dewalt gas air compresor Honda motor 5.5 HP won't start what should i check ....Any ideas ?

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the question! There are a few things you can check. First, try disconnecting the low oil shutoff switch on the Honda engine itself, as sometimes this can short. Also, check the idle speed screw on the engine carburetor to make sure it's not set too low....if the RPMs are too low then it won't stay running. Other than the engine, make sure you have the pilot/unloader valve (the large brass valve on the tank) in the "unloaded" position, which means the toggle on the end of it should be in the vertical position. Make sure the drive belt is not too loose or too tight...you should have 1/2" deflection when you press down at the centerpoint of the belt. This should help get you started.

I have an old sears two cylinder compressor. I tired a few times to repair the check valve then I replaced it. Now it starts up and does not blow the breaker. The only issue is I've had the compressor head to the check valve copper pipe off so many times while it's running the fittings leak because the brass compression fittings don't seal . Plus the new check valves now have a 1/8" port that has to be plugged which I did. The main issue is getting a new copper pipe bent to a 90 degree and fitting the pipe proper. The new check valve is taller so I was able to push back the brass ring and cut off 5/16" yet I should have cut off 1/4" because now I need to tighten the heads fitting first then the check valve and can tell it has added tension . It only has a slight leak while filling the tank yet I don't like the bit of added tension . It seems the copper pipe needs to seat down in the head and check valve in order for the brass sealing ring to find it's stop just the way they seem to work. I guess I can get a new copper pipe and compression fittings and have the 90 degree bend done . The issue is making it the proper length. How would you do this?

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment! You can buy 1/4" stock pipe at a hardware store and have them cut it and bend it to the proper shape for you, or you can bend the tubing yourself. For a small size like 1/4", it will actually bend pretty easily by hand without kinking (not the case for larger OD tubing). A cheap pipe bender will help. I would certainly recommend new compression ferrules on each end (your compression nuts should be reusable). Another option is to go with 1/4" OD nylon tubing, which we have available on our site but that you can obtain locally as well. This has obvious advantages...it's easier to work with, doesn't kink easily and you don't need to bend it. I hope this helps and feel free to reply if you have additional questions.

@williamjahn7514

4 жыл бұрын

@@MasterToolRepair What I need is 1/2" OD copper pipe from the compressor head to the new check valve . Both ends use 1/2" compression fittings. Can't seem find it local at hard wares stores. I can find the 1/2" compression fittings on amazon

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

@@williamjahn7514 We have standard 1/2" ferrules and compression nuts. You can find them at the below link: mastertoolrepair.com/compression-nut-sleeve-60-861-p-1577.html For the tube, I'd just get 1/2" OD copper cut and bent locally, that's the best option if you can't find the OEM part# for the tube online.

The gas-powered one looks like a pain in the butt. Thanks for this, though--it's a phenomenal video.

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

Wow, we really appreciate the positive comments and thank you for watching! It all depends on the application, really, but gas-powered units can be more difficult to maintain as they have more components than an electric-driven unit.

Hey why there is ambient air intake in second stage of compressor

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. The unit in the video has a v-twin pump and each cylinder requires an air intake filter...this is common on v-twin compressors as both banks have completely separate head and valves systems.

that was super helpful. It was funny to think that someone as good looking as John Stamos is an air compressor compressor mechanic. Ditto on the radio voice.

@MasterToolRepair

4 жыл бұрын

That's a great compliment, and flattering. I will pass it along to Eric. I'm glad we could help. Your comments will be a nice early Christmas gift! Cheers, Johnny.

What happens if pressure reach on red line on pressure gauge

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the question! It all depends on what your maximum PSI rating of your air compressor is. But generally, if the needle on the gauge is reaching the upper limits denoted by the red line, the pressure switch is failing to shut the unit off at the max PSI setting, so there's a good chance you'll need to replace your pressure switch (as long as you confirmed the gauge is reading accurately, first).

@NAVNEET011

3 жыл бұрын

@@MasterToolRepair thanks for your reply..

In future videos, give some thought to what your hands are doing since they are on screen so much. Try to coordinate them with the subject matter dialog instead of waving them aimlessly.

@MasterToolRepair

5 жыл бұрын

We're not professional actors here, we're just small business owners. But, you make a good point.

How to change from a gas to electric

How trustable are this compressors???

@raulmarin8704

3 жыл бұрын

Emglo compressors

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

@@raulmarin8704 The Emglo name was purchased by the DeWalt group in the 2000's so if you see a blue and yellow Emglo unit in the wild, that means it's a great, great compressor. Emglo is still operating in Johnstown, PA but they go by "Jenny" now. The compressors are exactly the same as the old Emglo units and they're made in the same factory, so a "Jenny" unit is equivalent to the old Emglo air compressors. These are excellent air compressors. However the black and yellow DeWalt-made Emglo air compressors they're making today are NOT the same as the old Emglo units. They are decent air compressors but are not of the quality the old Emglo or current Jenny units are. I hope this helps and thank you for the question!

Busco las válvulas de un Emglo

@MasterToolRepair

3 жыл бұрын

We have parts for Emglo compressors, you can find them by clicking on the below link: mastertoolrepair.com/air-compressor-parts-by-brand-emglo-air-compressor-parts-c-32.html I hope this helps!

Another dumb compressor video that never discusses how head pressure is bled off so there isn't a strain on the electric motor when it restarts

You are bumbling through your vocabulary. You are obviously nervous enough to be giving erroneous information