I really like your air cooled design. As with many KZreads, comments from followers give additional insight. When working in the steel industry I had to dry process air. I took that experience into my garage the same as you have done. It is no surprise that you haven't gotten moisture at all those downstream traps. Here are some key points to have dry, home garage air. 1. Cool the compressed air immediately out of the head before it enters the tank. (You did that.) 2. Run a moisture separator immediately downstream the aftercooler. (You did that.) 3. Use a tank to allow any moisture droplets the ability to drop out with a reduction of air velocity (You did that.) Your discussion about running the tanks in parallel or series is also a major design consideration. Air, holds moisture based on strictly volume at a temperature. Air typically can hold half as much water per cubic foot as the temperature drops 20 deg. F. If you double the volume of saturated air (based on absolute pressure ), it will then have a relative humidity of 50%. All of those properties can give you really dry air. Here's how, 1. Run your compressor as high pressure (125 psi) out of the head and use the aftercooler to bring it to room temperature (70 deg F). 2. Separate all that moisture out. 3. Out of the main storage tank (at 150 psi) regulate the air to a second tank at a lower pressure (125 psi). 4. Regulate out of the second tank to your garage or hose reel at 100 psi if able. With this method you will utilize pressure and the aftercooler to remove the bulk of the moisture and the subsequent expansion will allow the air to absorb microscopic misting to be absorbed into the air. If painting at say 25 psi you will not have any moisture issues at all. In the past I use a water cooled aftercooler. It is a 1/2" OD copper tube inside a 3/4" OD tube. Water moves counterflowed through the annular opening between the tube. I feed it through a garden hose when I paint. My compressor has a 12 gallon tank. From there I feed a 24 gallon old hot water heating system expansion tank at a 20 psi reduced pressure. The water system is a pain compared to your system. I think I will do an upgrade now that I am retired and will be painting again.

@PaulThomas-qo9vy

Жыл бұрын

James H. & MrFireman, Excellently described & built. The proof is in the evidence that No condensed water is in the tank or downstream water traps. The Motorguard & desiccant absorber further elevate the air quality & dryness where it's needed for painting or sandblasting. As a young man I didn't understand the thermodynamics of moisture removal & cursed that "cheap sandblaster" when it was the ignorant operators cheap 2 hp portable compressor that cooled the wet air in the tank & hose, plugging the blaster in less than 5 min. At least I learned by studying. Great job! Paul from S. Central (humid) Tx.

@PaulThomas-qo9vy

Жыл бұрын

@sourand jaded After-heating, I've heard of it in high-end refrigerated drirers that warm the dried cooled air with incoming hot wet air thru a heat exchanger. I have not tried it myself because I haven't figured out a way to do that for cheap! 😎 Maybe pipe the cool dry air outside into the sun in sunny south Texas?

Great system my friend!! Thank you for the update!!

I have a similar setup. Mine is two smaller condensers and after the tank, but has a similar redundancy with the multiple filters. Like you, I never get water at the last leg. I plan on putting mine before the tank at some point . Good to see yours works so well.

I'm going to be getting into painting cars with my grandson so learning what I need to do. You are my teacher on this part... Thanks and thumbs up

I can’t believe it’s been four years too. Thanks for the update...was wondering about this.

Can’t believe it’s been that long! Still a great setup.

For a smaller portable compressor I had, I used a condenser from a very old refrigerator that would attach to the handle. I just connected it to the outlet of the tank, then ran it to a regulator/water separator. Running the air through the cooler and a separator before it goes into the tank is much better. For one thing, it will help the tank last longer. I would drain water from the tank each time I used it, and some from the separator. It worked well enough that I was able to do a good job painting used appliances that I had for sale.

Thanks for walking us through that. I didn't understand where the condenser coils fit into the line. It makes complete sense now.

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

Greg's Garage anymore questions let me know

Good to know the condenser last years. I just build very similar contraption on my compressor and was a little worried if aluminium condenser will corrode in few months. I’ve added little reservoir and a tap right after the condenser to capture and release water before it reaches the tank.

That is a sweet setup. Your results speak for themselves. I remember when you were going through all that because of the bubbles you were getting in the SPI.

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

rindress yes

This is a testament as to what works, great idea!

I really like your set up

I did mine after seeing the first video you posted on yours , best thing I have ever done for my shop air .

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

Craig Voisin awesome

visited a shop where they put 3/4" clear hose onto the inlet pipes to the air filters. and they are fed into a cone filter the kids have on their ricers. It really quietens the noise down of the sucking

That will also keep the tank from getting rusted out.

@Chez8922-kf6cy

Ай бұрын

THAT means a lot IMHO.

nice setup thanks for the 4yr update

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks !

Cool video nice shop

Nice setup! A lot of people will claim you can't get dry air without a refrigerated moisture trap and a desiccant filter right before the gun. That hasn't been my experience, and my setup isn't nearly as thorough as yours.

That was a great job of by-passing the painting end for shop tools. Also, as some may not know, on GM’s in model year 2000 and newer (Could be older), but the A/C condensers are designed with extruded aluminum tubing. If you see the “Flat” type tubing, it has like 14 little square holes that are about 1.2 mm wide. This make the condenser very efficient in removing heat. The more humidity in the air, once heated as compressed, causes water to condense. So depending on your cash, you can get one from a bone yard, if the tube is flat like an old match book from Perry Mason. Those are gold. Another guy used a 12Vdc fan and run it an inverter wired into the compressor. There is very little load on the electrical. Just make damn sure the 120 Vac is wired to one half of the circuit if your compressor is 220 volts. If your not comfortable with wiring, please get a buddy or hire someone. Just do your research, use flexible conduit and clamp fitting. The more you have ready to go, the cheaper it will be. Just a thought. I used compression fittings and that 5 gallon bucket with a copper coil in it, your right. That has thermal mass at 8 Lbs. per gallon will cool a lot, condensing it further. It may warm a little durning an all day spray cession, but just great and not too hard, except moving the compressor. I think 90% would leave it on the pallet wood base, allowing room for a cheater bar to help move. Sweet job and thinking it thru. Well done MrFireman164! Retired auto tech. PS; We know you got 10 foot ceilings, but plastic will help as static will draw paint dust and dust in general. We used heavy folded cardboard in 8 foot lengths and pre-drilled long drywall screws. Just a suggestion as it reduced our dust nibs to one on an 86 Monte Carlo.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

Dean Kay awesome comment, thanks for watching!

@deankay4434

2 жыл бұрын

@@HauntedBranch I will have to write it down & part number, then go look at it. If the photos allow a close look, they should be real thin. Almost like paper match book or the handle of two forks placed together. I have never figured out Amazon or how to contact the seller. The tubes are super thin because they are extruded, pushed thru a die while molten alloy aluminum. Like a hot radiator, the condenser expands like a ballon. They are rubber mounted to allow for this. Did you click on the sellers name? Sometimes that takes you to their store, perhaps they have a contact. The common thing today on Amazon or eBay is they sell but don’t have the product to look at. Maybe in a warehouse in an other state. Sad kinda! But it tells me one thing, you are paying attention and looking for the latest good stuff. I had one returned to a warehouse and cut open with a hacksaw. I made several so I could hand them out during seminars. I did A/C controls seminar I put together as everyone did compressors & refrigerant but no one did sensors, signals, software operation. Cadillacs had a grill sensor that detected high levels of HC, Co2 and shut off outside air coming into the cabin. But even imports copy US parts in China or Japan. It depends on patent date, then they copy and sell. Who knows, maybe we copied one from Nissan. I will find time and let you know, but the thinner, the better heat transfer! Hope you Easter was good. Great catch! (I will save to comment back)

@deankay4434

2 жыл бұрын

@@HauntedBranch This looks right but unlike eBay, I can’t figure out how to contact the seller. Today, compression fitting have changed completely as the use an inner and out piece on each side. No more ferrule or olive as the British call it. I have used two, one for trans cooler under the truck bed with a shield that scoops air in and has a fan on it. It is new from an import so small enough to fit next to the trans only, frame & exhaust. The other is full sized. I made brackets to secure it on the fan side of wall. The brackets include a place for a furnace filter. The compressor is 240 Vac and wired window box fan next to condenser. It attaches thru the on/off box w/pressure switch. I used the motor side and just 120 Vac half. So, compressor comes on, fan sw set to medium and draws air thru furnace filter $1. I have 3.5” to the wall. Rubber hose goes into dissocant water absorber, then to copper pipe. I have drip legs and PSI gauge at the outlet. I have 7 air hose that are fifty foot long, so I can connect and go around the house well into back yard. The condenser for auto trans w/fan is controlled by a $5 temp controller that has a thermistor that plug into the fins between the tubes. I let it heat to 185 degrees F, switches on a 10am relay but controls 30 amp relay in under hood relay/fuse center. Most don’t know but many Buicks have a rectangular fuse/relay box on passengers side behind glove box. It is perfect because it holds 12 fuses and 12 relays, some are anti-thief and fuel pump. They are side by side on drivers front fender with a painted metal cover and sealing tape around lid. I have a 67 C10 with 03 Tahoe LS engine and 700R4. I used the PCM, TAC module for cruise, BCM for keyless entry, power windows, content theft, light control, horn, and warning module that plays tone thru LF speaker if lights on, key in dash ignition and I lock door, close it, it chirps horn & unlocks door. I took the buckets, cut & welded seat belt post and removed air bag. Center console is 1/2” CPVC board heated, bent flare and center top cover is held with magnets. Both driver and passengers door control module are underneath with PCM, TAC & BCM pointing up inside slots for easy service. I am far from done but getting their. Best off luck!

@HauntedBranch

2 жыл бұрын

@@deankay4434 I'll go see if I can find seller contact information. I just asked about it on amazon waiting for reply .

@HauntedBranch

2 жыл бұрын

I think the Universal Air Conditioner CN 70017C A/C Condenser is to restrictive

Got myself a Quincy qt-54 based your and Russ's video's. Next on rhe list is to add a condenser .

@AmericanPatriot1778

3 жыл бұрын

Did you get your condenser on? Which condenser did you use?

You got drying redundancies out the wahzoo! Amazing build!

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks I wish everyone was kind like you

@MichaelJeffers75

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 how much PSI have you put through that condenser so far? Does using it hurt your CFM?

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

@@MichaelJeffers75 Not sure how much psi comes out of the motor i think its rated to push 175 psi, it is rated for 15.4 cfm@90 psi, no loss of cfm that I am aware of as I have sand blasted, painted whole cars, run air tools ect with no issues at all.

I've got everything done for mine except the new hydraulic line. I need to get that done.

@deankay4434

3 жыл бұрын

Hydraulic hoses are capable of 10K PSI. The clear reinforced hose sold at home improvement stores can handle 200+ PSI. When placed on brass barbed fitting and a worm clamp will work fine for decades. Many plastics have come along way and published pressures can be doing online with the store selling it. Just look for product information or a “PFD” file for use. We have one company the will produce or crimp hydraulic hoses. This can be very expensive. Use two hose clamps faced opposite directions to ensure connection. Retire ASE Master Tech

You wanted to know where the water stopped? It was somewhere, back there, in Cleveland.

nice set up

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

The88katana600 thanks

Where does the moisture go after it leaves the condenser? It flows downhill into your cooling coil bucket, but the water cannot flow back upstream.. There is no drip leg drain lower than the bucket on the floor, that coil of pipe has to be bubbling with water.. disconnect and drain and you'll see what I mean. @ (2:50) you said it. I understand youre dry way down the line, but the system could be more efficient.. also, upsize that tiny hydraulic pipe and get some proper ridgid tubing with a nice large i.d. preferably 1/2" or larger. Just my 2¢..

What is the hose coming of the motor. I did some similar and yes it works great. I haven't done any painting yet. my compressor is pretty quite but I got an ideal off youtube, you run a tube off your air intake filter and run it thru a muffler and supposedly it takes some of the thump sound out making it quieter. I'm not sure I'm going to ant thing like that but it's an ideal.

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

Robert White hose off the crank case is to keep oil from going airborne. That’s the crank case vent

It was well worth the time and money . And proven to work :)

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

huck01955 sure has

I have the same compressor with a cooler on it similar to yours and it works great. Is the purpose of the clear tubing on the black vent to prevent oil mist in the shop?

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

Gomer Pyle yes, it was a thought after I saw exhaust coming out into the air I thought could cause fisheyes in paint so I sealed it up

@Gomer8759

4 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 Good precaution, I think i will install one.

Would a larger condenser cool even more? Also when buying a condenser how do you know how much pressure can safely go through it?

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

Not sure on all those questions

What is the line size in the condenser. Looks like around 3/8”. Does it still have the cfm through that condenser? I have a large AC condenser I was thinking about using. Great video.👍🇺🇸🤙😃

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

Ken Switzer not sure the line size, does everything I need it to do and it keeps up fine. Just painted that Jeep no problem

@kenswitzer4133

4 жыл бұрын

MrFireman164 Thanks Man. I am going to try the one I have. 👍🇺🇸🤙😃

How do you determine if the condenser will hold the pressure? I want to run my compressor at its max of 175 lbs. I use pneumatic cylinders and the more presure the better (within limits). So will a car AC condenser do it? What pressure do they normally run in the car?

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

Backlash my compressor is 175 max and it has worked for years no problems, it’s a universal condenser Not sure what they are rated for

@jasonsprouse2803

2 жыл бұрын

High side on an A/C system can easily hit 250 psi. The hotter it is outside, the higher the high side pressure will be.

Can you give measurements of your A/C condenser, looks like they quit selling the one you are using or what would you suggest now if you were to do it again?

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

22” wide 14” tall and 2” deep

@AmericanPatriot1778

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 Thank you sir! Have QT-54 shipping in today, getting everything ready. what size fitting needed coming off the head and going into tank? Thanks great videos....

That’s the setup!

like the condenser idea, i was gonna use a trans cooler

Daaaaaaaammmmmnnnn!!!! It's nice.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks

Where can I get a kit like this? It would be fine mounted on the wall too I assume. I don’t have that big open cage around my belt.

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

ENZ PRINT CO. I bought mine on eBay because they give you the dimensions, I’m sure you could get one at your local auto parts store but they are going to put you through the ringer over what car it’s for Lol. So the wall question I would not recommend that unless you space it away for airflow to get thru it as that’s what’s cooking the hot air, I have also seen people wire electric fans on then to pull air through. Spacing it off the wall shouldn’t be too big a deal tho .

You're right the automotive condenser on the pump outlet won't cut pressure but it will cut volume. If you have 3/4" diameter line coming out of the pump going to the tank then you can't neck it down anywhere or the ability of the pump to keep up with high volume demand such as a sandblaster or 2 DA sanders running together will be reduced. It will also put back pressure on the pump and may make it work harder. Larger diameter tubing in the cooling device helps by slowing the air down and increasing contact time, smaller tubing hurts the cooling action. The automotive condenser works for car AC with small tubing because the refrigerant pump is small and doesn't have as much volume to flow. I would not reduce the tubing diameter between my air compressor pump and tank, I don't think it's a good idea. Cooling and drying the air before the tank is a good way to keep water out of the tank, but it's hard to cool the air enough to get the water condensed to liquid before the tank because at the pump outlet is where all the heat is. When it comes to water in the line after the tank I bought a 20 cfm refrigerated dryer for about $750, not a harbor freight china cheapo, this unit is made in Italy by a company called Shultz, and it works great. The refer unit chills the air and it has a water trap right after the chiller with a timed electric valve to blow the water out. No water at all in the line after the dryer even in humid summer and no need for water traps on the air line all over the place. You can also put a refrigerated dryer between the pump and tank, but it would have to be a lot bigger one because of all the heat it would need to handle, and it would be expensive, which is why they are usually after the tank. The tank acts as a buffer where the air sits still for a while, the downside is the tank gets most of the water. My tank has a short pipe out the low end with a 1/2" ball valve I can reach easy and I just have to blast it open a few seconds every couple hours to keep it drained. If you can't reach your tank drain valve easy then you need an automatic valve or you will get lazy and not drain it enough.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

So it’s been 5 years know since the condenser installation, still no water or need to change filters however you are saying that because of the piss pour design the compressor will probably take a shit any day now ?

@onemoremisfit

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 No. Re-read. I said the compressor pump may have to work harder, and I said it will not be able to deliver as much volume thru the constricted line of the automotive condenser that was never designed for that purpose. Where did I say the compressor will suffer damage or take a shit any day? Were did I call your ideas piss poor? Where did I say your condenser won't remove water? Some people and their reading comprehension ... jeez.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

@@onemoremisfit compressor has to work harder=limits the life expectancy #takeashit Automotive condenser never designed for that = piss poor design You didn’t say it wouldn’t remove water. Some people and their reading comprehension = uneducated or stupid.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

@@onemoremisfit maybe I did misread, however I get so many keyboard warriors criticizing me, I have I’ve 700 videos on here so it gets easy to get defensive after years of doing KZread videos and having put yourself out there to help others only to have them criticize you.

@onemoremisfit

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 I'm not criticizing you. I've repurposed old AC condensers myself, I used one for a trans cooler on an old 1-ton truck where looks didn't matter because it was mounted outside the grille. I have a Quincy 310 on a 60 gal tank, and I have grinders, air files, needle scaler, and other tools that will make that pump run long and hard to keep up. I thought of the AC condenser idea myself and decided no because it's easy to see the pump would have an even harder time keeping up when pushing thru a smaller diameter line. And gee whiz, pointing out that the AC condenser was never designed for that purpose is just objective fact. Don't be so sensitive. Here's another bright idea that I had that won't work: geothermal. Bore a well hole straight down say 20' and bury a vertical loop of 1" tubing in it. It would do a great job of cooling the air, but there's no way to drain water at the bottom of the loop. Eventually the pump would be pushing a 20' head of water, so that idea fails on the drawing board. I don't feel inadequate for having ideas like that. There are fan cooled aftercoolers built for air compressors on the market, and yes they cost a few bucks more than a repurposed AC condenser. I've been looking at one rated 50 scfm with 1" npt fittings. I was thinking about putting it between my pump and my refrigerated dryer, then routing that to the tank, then I'd have dry air in the tank. Maybe it would work, maybe not. All depends on if it can cool the air to within the operating range of the reefer unit and if the trap on the unit can blow out the additional water that will accumulate in it. Might be worth a try. Another big idea of mine: I have a 2nd good quality 2 stage compressor that I acquired free years ago sitting apart in my shed, it's not broken but it needs a little work to assemble it. I was thinking I could run the 2 units in tandem with the 2nd unit set for a lower cut in pressure so it only runs during high volume demand when the pressure drops below say 80 psi, and the main unit cuts in at 95 so it covers all normal demand. The 2nd unit would cut out at say 110 and let the main unit continue the rest of the way to full pressure of 125. That way I'd have a setup that puts 2 pumps online during high demand.

Your RapidAir K93217 is 175 max psi in and 150 max psi out? are you still getting 175 psi out of tank? Have same kind of air compressor, setting mine up like yours but don't want to blow up air filter. Let me know, thanks. GREAT VIDEO!!!

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

I have set the regulator after tank before it goes up the wall at 100 psi, that way if there is 10psi drop thru the system I will still have 90 psi at my tools. Yeah 175psi would be too much for most tools

@AmericanPatriot1778

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 Thank you!

A refrigerated cooler is the best 800 bucks elimination of all the stuff you have you cant beat the system

It is normal for the pump to get hot! In fact, it needs to get hot to work properly. At the same time, it needs ventilation and you are restricting it by having the condenser right behind the pump’s pulley which is design to blow air towards the pump and cool it down enough to avoid premature wear. Moreover, the compressor too close to the wall and in a corner, houses heat on the complete unit. The pump and motor should be kept well ventilated. The dryer/regulator goes on the output of the tank and not on the input. The only thing that you’ve done right is installing numerous dryers and filters on the output. No hard feelings my friend. Stay Cool.

what's the big clear hose coming off the crankcase for?

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

I paint cars and thought I was getting fisheyes from that oil vent so I put that tube on it. It wasn’t the issue but I haven’t ever taken it off

lol this video popped up after i commented on the '16 video.

You remember where you purchased the condenser?

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

eBay, it was just a universal condenser

Does anyone know if reducing the compressor head pump discharge line to accommodate the cooler causes extra wear on the compressor pump ?

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

Been 6 years I think, run it almost everyday all day still pumping out clean air 🤷🏻‍♂️

@ejb9545

Жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 Thanks for your time and the info

can i use air hose instead of tubing for the lines? i only see people using tubing in their videos.. idk why

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

Air hose is rubber and as it’s gets hot and wears it will breakdown inside and send all that crap Thru your system or tools

@prawnstar502

Жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 what about ptfe lines?

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

@@prawnstar502 never messed with those but if you can get them to seal I don’t know why they wouldn’t

thinking about doing the could that system paint a whole car anyone knows of this compressor hoteche and is it any good

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

Don’t know anything about that compressor but the aftercooler is amazing

hi what is the max psi u run ?

@MrFireman164

4 жыл бұрын

madman2666 I think it’s 175 psi

I dont believe that filter can keep 100% of the water from entering the tank js

@MrFireman164

Күн бұрын

It doesn’t keep 100% out of the tank but it does keep 100% out of the black filter and other filter on the wall. Js

It works better

@MrFireman164

Жыл бұрын

Yes it does

If I had never seen this video I would of litterly put a role of toilet paper in a filter like that. I didnt realize that was just a term for the type of filter lol.😄. I thought tp was just a cheap way to make a home made filter to save money...I'm new to air compressors obviously..

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

Lol, toilet paper will break down and come apart into your system or at Least I’m told, never tried it.

@motov8-garage832

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 lol. I have done weeks of reading on air compressor systems and happend to hear the term tp filter..and...well now I know. Thanks👍😁! After all this research I've realized there is no cheap way to make a air system to paint a car..I might just prep my transam and rent a booth from someone or pay them to paint it.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

@@motov8-garage832 that works too

Should take the water from the separator and shoot it in the water bucket.

@MrFireman164

11 ай бұрын

Agreed

I would think that you probably could have bought a proper air dryer for what you have invested here? Not as satisfying though.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

I thought this was the proper system lol

@larrythompson2967

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrFireman164 HA, well If it works for you, then I guess that it is, but you can buy a single unit that has a refrigerated system in it. They work very well and don't take up much space. But if yours is doing the job, Perfect!

Wait....am I missing something? When the water "condenses", its the filter that removes it from the air before going into the tank? There isnt a place to drain the condensate before the filter? If thats the case, couldnt you have skipped the condenser and just filtered the air? Any good filter should remove the same amount of water/moisture entrained in the air. I am not trying to be a dick...just confused

@MrFireman164

2 жыл бұрын

Without the condenser the hot air will stay hot air, the filter will only catch what condensates which isn’t much. The condenser allows the hot air to cool longer therefore turning more of it into solid water, where it then lands in the filter and drains before it goes into the tank. Hope that answers your question.

@javaman2883

Жыл бұрын

As the air cools in the condenser, it loses the ability to hold moisture, so the water condenses into liquid. The airflow through the condenser/pipes keeps pushing the water along. The water separator between the condenser and the tank allows the water a place to stop and pool, where it can then be drained periodically. Inside the separator, the airflow spreads out and slows, preventing the airflow from being able to push the water out (that's how those work). Without that separator, the water would just be pushed along the pipe into the tank. Without the condenser, the air would flow into the tank hot, where it would cool, then water would condense inside the tank. That is the reason for the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, to release water that pooled in the tank. If the compressor is running a lot, like in a paint shop, the whole tank heats up, which allows warm humid air to exit the tank. That is where the desiccant-type water separators become important. The purpose of the intercooler is to allow the air to cool and condense the water out before it gets to the tank. Eliminating humid air prior to the tank decreases the resource usage of desiccants after the tank.

He fact that you’re actually getting water into your Rapid Air water separator means your system is not effective. That should be the last resort and hardly ever get water into it. The rest of your lines just happen to catch your initial flaw....but good to know it works for you.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

So I will humbly ask how would you change it ? Hot air/condensation from the pump would normally go straight into the tank. The way it is now it goes through a condenser and lines that turns the hot air to room temperature which liquifies it to water wherefore it dumps the water into a water separator where it then automatically drains into the floor. The air by the time it goes into the tank has moisture largely removed before going into the tank. Then from there it goes into another separator before climbing ten foot straight up and over 20’ in 3/4 copper tubing before dropping into another drop leg. No moisture ever reaches any of the dryer systems that I mentioned in the vid.

@jasonsprouse2803

2 жыл бұрын

The condensers just turn the water vapor into water, before the air gets into the lines. If the air gets into the lines hot, then the water condenses THERE as it cools. Intercoolers are standard on (true) commercial compressors. If you can get the air to drop out into the tank, then it doesn't go through the lines.

Compressed air ends up condensing inside the tank, it’s inevitable! It is recommended to drain the tank completely from the drain valve (located at the bottom of the tank) on a daily basis. As you already know, an automotive AC “Condenser” will convert vapor to liquid and in this case it will cool down the water because it is not refrigerant! Moreover, the reason the “RapidAir” dryer/regulator fills up with water is because of the condenser. You are actually producing water, collecting it and wasting it. Jesus, Marry and Joseph: You never saw it until now, ah!

@nefgarza6419

2 жыл бұрын

@ricardo, I think he did, and what he is doing is just making sure there is not too much water going into the tank to prevent rust, that's the reason of the rapid air filter before the air goes into the tank, that is not the final solutions, that's why he uses another filter right at the tank outlet, and along the piping,

The output of the pump should go straight to the tank and you have a dryer/regulator, condenser, hydraulic hose, cooper lines, bucket of water and God knows what else you have in between the two. IT’S WRONG! The reason you haven’t blown a gasket on the pump is because you are losing efficiency with all those modifications you made. However, the regulator can serve as a restriction to the pump’s output, should it get clogged with debris, you will blow a gasket on the pump which happens to be the heart of the compressor.

@MrFireman164

3 жыл бұрын

Guess I’m just lucky 🍀 for 4 years , with no water at all coming out of my hoses, so sounds like you are a compressor expert help me make it better... what would Ricardo do ?

@jasonsprouse2803

2 жыл бұрын

You clearly don't understand what a condenser does. As far as "blowing head gaskets", the pressure is the same at the compressor head outlet whether running through intercoolers, or plumbed straight into the tank. The only way pressure could drop, is if there is a restriction that will not flow the output CFM. I've made my living for years having 2 - 3 air compressors. No air = no work.