Before you start the alignment, center the steering gear and drop a small screw driver in the little hole in the steering gear until it drops through. If the steering wheel is not centered, remove the plastic cap on the steering wheel, loosen the nut and then stick a thick screw driver on the hole to center. Now adjust the steering wheel to make sure its dead center and then you can go about adjusting the toe-in of the front wheels and linkage.

I know this is an old thread but to update everyone who may read this, I have two JD and one Husqvarna mowers that had excessive toe-OUT. I ordered 923-0448a link parts, (there are others), plus two 3/8 in-24 x 2in bolts (verify threads with the link parts). Using the new link parts with the bolt screwed half way in, mark and cut the existing drag link at that point and toss it into the garbage bin. WELD new bolt to the drag link, somewhat a pain in the butt. COOL weld. Screw on the new link parts at least half way. Temporarily insert the new parts into the steering link, tighten nuts, etc. Check for toe-in and adjust link parts until wheels have slightly toe-in. Do this on pavement! Tighten all nuts/bolts to spec or where you feel comfortable. Once installed - these can be re-adjusted in and out as required. I figure this has saved me numerous amounts of money and time on replacing worn out tires, plus steering is better!

Thanks for the help...really informative.

Good video but I couldn't hang with the "Sub Video Noise".

What do you call this type of steering arrangement with no tie rod between the wheels?

Thanks for the help

Is the wheel mounting bracket bent? Or the bar

You need to do the toe in adjustment, without axle stands, on level concrete, with the steering quadrant dead centre, so that you have an equal turning circle in both directions.

@boots7859

Жыл бұрын

Thats what the manual says, correct. However, if you already have measured or eyeballed it you should be able to do it on the stands. I think they say not to simply because many people may try to eyeball or measure it after it is up on the stands.

Same problem, not being able to adjust enough.

Run a thread chaser over the drag link then cut off or grind off an 1/8 or quarter inch.. Run the die or thread chaser out to give you clean threads to work with and that should do it. I prefer a cutting die because I can run it down the drag link to add threads if needed

@SmallEngineDIY

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, that would work. Good advice!

@FrankRuiz66

5 жыл бұрын

@@SmallEngineDIY no problem. Thanks for the video..

theres no adjustment on mine . one tire is toed WAY out . Can I buy an after market one with an adjustment ? its an ariens 46"

@zachariahheiss2294

3 жыл бұрын

Same here

If you figure out how to adjust the camber let me know.

@baldeagle242

2 жыл бұрын

If your camber is out of adjustment the bushings or shaft itself is probably bent or worn. I'm not aware of any mowers that have an adjustment for this. You are best to replace the worn or bent parts.

@tommak6516

2 жыл бұрын

12 pound sledge hammer?

@mechanicallycreative9788

2 жыл бұрын

@@tommak6516 Yeah that's it.

I have a Cub Cadet tractor 1550. I got new rods the ball joints all the way screwed on and I got one wheel straight and the other one point Spa left or if I put the left wheel straight the right one is pointing far-right what the hell do I do. It's like the rods are too freaking long. I feel like I'm missing something

Maybe order a new part or try cutting the screw shorter

Too much noise from that compressor, or what ever it is. Hard to hear.

There is no alignment on a garden tractor. If the wheel are not in proper alignment, there is wear/damage of one or more of the parts. Inspect and replace the faulty parts...job done. Don't waste time and effort on hillbilly repairs.

@boots7859

Жыл бұрын

You are a retard. JD definately has a Toe alignment but no camber.

@RSole9999

Ай бұрын

Nonsense, my Kubota G1800 has adjustable tie rods, just like on a car.