" I can't wait to climb properly" , you said it man

@JJsQuest

4 жыл бұрын

As an outsider looking in, and big fan of Adam, the climbing community's biggest negative is their pervasive compulsive elitism. "Speed climbing is not real climbing." "Gym climbing is not real climbing." "Sport climbing is not real climbing." "Redpointing is not what climbing is about." "Greenpointing is the only true climbing." "Climbing man-made structures is not real climbing." "Studying the route before trying it is cheating." etc. etc. Many seem so ready to tell you that you're doing it wrong and their way is the only 'real climbing'. Not a good look, folks. Even Adam seemed to admit in this video there is more nuance to this side of the sport than he gave it credit for. Why is this a thing in this community?

@Y.unalesca

4 жыл бұрын

@@JJsQuest I wonder if it is because our standards are so high.

@UnicycleSoul

4 жыл бұрын

@@Y.unalesca Peoples insecurities and egos being bruised are the root cause of this elitism. It has nothing to do with "high standards". It has very much to do with people being petty, insecure about themselves and their climbing and the inability to understand that people have different preferences when it comes to climbing. It has become especially evident now with the influx of new climbers.

@spydolin1

4 жыл бұрын

@JJsQuest I think speed climbing is so different from lead/Boulder that it should be a sport for itself. Also fom a viewers standpoint it is really quite boring because I a it is basically the same all the time b I can not relate to it because I never do speed. Even the fact that he has to train for it like a different sport should be a sign, that maybe speed does not fit too good with lead and Boulder.

@UnicycleSoul

4 жыл бұрын

@@spydolin1 It's not like IFSC had a choice, they were only given 1 set of medals for the olympics for 3 competitive disciplines so the only way to include them all is to mash them together into a combined format.

"I plan to break the world record in the Olympics" That's pretty badass

@banjo4smash862

4 жыл бұрын

hes waiting to bust out his secret technique

@ironhead1177

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah that didnt age well.

I like how you say can't wait to start climbing properly again...lol

@akinaridate9233

4 жыл бұрын

Haha i think he didt mean to say climbing speed is not climbing properly,,i also climbing boulder and lead but i train speed sometime and in speed training its like you more focus make explosive power and other physical training even in the wall you still focus to improve tecnique,, so when training its feels like you not climbing because its feels like sprinter training,not climbing haha.. but when you focus to make best time its feel like climbing again.. correct me if iam wrong

@Theninjaonthemountains

4 жыл бұрын

@@akinaridate9233 is just a diferrent sport to him thats why he makes that remark. speed climbing is completely opposite from what he focused on steady perfect tiny moves

LMAO never knew Adam can't run. That was funny to watch. But Adams gonna be a total Beast at the Olympics

@Mike-oz4cv

4 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 I’m actually surprised that climbers don’t train for leg strength. I’m an amateur climber (~6c-ish) and even I feel my legs after a climbing session despite regular bicycling and leg strength (squats, deadlifts) training.

@Amatsuichi

4 жыл бұрын

well, this is to be seen... speed training can actually cause Adam to get worse in lead and bouldering... its simply a different kind of sport and if Adam adds some muscles to his lower body, this may lead to issues with climbing at his level of difficulty... thats why speed should have been kept separated from lead and bouldering in the 1st place... training for speed can actually harm our best climbers...

@neonneom

4 жыл бұрын

@@Amatsuichi you hit the point, man!

@Spotofgardening

3 жыл бұрын

@@Mike-oz4cv I thought the same! I've just started bouldering this year and biggest thing for me (other than technique 😅) is power in legs, specifically if you are in a deep squat position on one leg. His legs are strong he just isn't training like a body builder so its actually useful functional strength

@feelinghealingfrequences7179

3 жыл бұрын

hilarious sprinter face

Congrats to the production team for a fantastic series so far. It's not so simple creating such clean episodes. Also, I find it interesting how I can understand certain phrases/words they say at times (my second language happens to be Polish).

@jamescanjuggle

4 жыл бұрын

Same here, even though I understand very little polish I can hear the similarities

@SonsOfDeForest

4 жыл бұрын

based poland

@emilyb9251

4 жыл бұрын

same! my second language is russian but a few words here sound familiar

@KeepAmericaChristian

2 жыл бұрын

@@emilyb9251 yesss it’s so weird

It's amazing that Adam was so unsuited for this event and still competed on a world class level.

Can't wait to watch my favorite climber get that golden Olympic medal! Hopefully in 2024, we'll have 3 separate medals for all 3 disciplines

@polkawillneverdie2159

4 жыл бұрын

i have read somewhere that speed will be sepperate, but boulder and lead still together

@trezapoioiuy

4 жыл бұрын

@@polkawillneverdie2159 That's something already. Speed is so much different and specialized

@idadolciotti6601

4 жыл бұрын

@@polkawillneverdie2159 I read the same. Two medal ceremonies for climbing in 2024

@polkawillneverdie2159

4 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 those ones are better together, true. But all seperate would still be the most logical ofcourse. same as with 100m sprint and marathon runners

@polkawillneverdie2159

4 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 yeah, thats true. but the point still holds i think.

Adam's running form is a force of nature

So nice to see two competitors training with each other. Very inspiring!

Finally! All the time I was anticipating a video on how you train for speed. This is in my opinion the most challenging part of any challenge: to get started with the things you suck and dislike. Love how you take on this kind of challenge!

Getting the best competitors around you is the sign of a true champion (Alberto Gines Lopez, now Rishad)!

2:54 Tomoa Narasaki Skip is a difficult difficulty that even world-class pros often make mistakes of, but in today's Olympics, if you don't do this, you won't win a medal. It has become an essential skill, like the back jump of the high jump. crazy

You „learn from him“ speed, will you „give something back“? Are you going to train lead or bouldering with Rishat?

One of the best sport climbers in the world teaming up to cross-train with one of the best speed climbers in the world. Excellent pairing!

Hello Adam! I was the boy with long hair at your book signing (which I have enjoy quite a bit) and even though I had a million things to say, seeing you always trying to climb harder gives me enough strength to continue in my own climbing. Thank you. -an aspiring sport climber

Really love when a star like this is humble enough to try something new and show us his journey. Mad respect.

Good luck Adam, I am sure all of the hard work will pay off :) Will be cheering you on!

Can't wait to see Adam get insanely muscular for the Olympics lol

Actually the think that surprise me the most is.... Adam Running!!! feels si strange to see it

As someone who spends a lot of time working on sprint technique, it's funny to see how un-coordinated Adam runs. So smooth and controlled on the wall but all over the place on flat ground!

nice to see you trying something new, you are so talented

you got this. as amazing as it is to watch you do big climbing challenges like 'silence', this is almost more inspiring. you are going completely out of your normal expectations and learning from those who others might see as lower than you. that's the mark of a real champion.

Úžasné video! Opravdu moc děkuji! ;-) Držím palce! :-)

Very well rounded, extremely inspiring!

Way to go Adam!! Keep inspiring and good luck to you bro!!!

Thanks Adam - these videos are really interesting and well done.

OMG watching Adam do hill sprints!

That's great video on speed climbing i have watched on youtube, loved it

Nice! Rishat is a pretty decent climber and it's just nice to see him herre all of a sudden

Včera jsem byl lézt poprvé venku v zimě a bylo to nejúžasnější lezení za celou moji krátkou lezeckou kariéru. :-D Ten pocit držet ten zmrzlej šutr je naprosto jedinečnej. Užij si to!

I've really come round in the combined format. It's kinda cool to see climbers pushing every aspect of their climbing and training to make it happen. Olympics is ganna be a really exciting event.

Love how you appreciate Catalunya, here we wait for you

Good luck Adam on your Trainings for Speed Climbing !!

He's really good at speaking different languages

Adam je nejlepší lezec na světě !

Adam training like Rocky Balboa... Legend!! Go get it Adam!!!!

Going to be interesting if Adam will feel a difference in his bouldering/lead after power and raw strength work. Maybe he gets even better in those?

Good lucj for your training Adam and Rishad!

I wish nothing but the best for you and Rishat Khaibullin.

Hi Adam! Have you ever think to use electro stimulation like Compex Mi-Sport to improve your power training? You would be able to recruit much more fibers within the same effort during your exercises. Enjoy your training time!!! Thanks for the good weekly videos and for pushing higher the limits of all the climbing disciplines!!

I never thought I'd see Adam Ondra run

Keep it up Adam! It will pay off when you’re holding the gold!

So glad to see that this series isn't called Road to Tokyo anymore!! That means the series won't end anytime soon!!

Sprinting is so tiring on the entire body it actually improves almost the entire body once you do it regulary. Amazing content Bro :)

Learn something from Adam, as always!!

nice video Adam goodluck in Tokyo

I wonder if any of this training will impact Adams Lead/Bouldering streanghts?

@wildwilie

4 жыл бұрын

T0BBi94 A positive impact could be more explosiveness for the dynamic dyno’s. But also a negative could potentially gaining some extra muscle that could be bad for bodyweight to strength ratio. But that just simplified theres a lot more complexity to it.

@radimm5936

4 жыл бұрын

I think it can actually help in bouldering for certain problems, but might make him a bit weaker in lead, just as you could've seen with Janja at lead world cups after winning all the boulders. She did seem a bit bulkier, still on the top, but her technique went down a bit which made her do petty mistakes sometimes. You need to be as aerobic as possible for lead too, which is the complete opposite to what you train for in speed and lead. But another possibility is, that it's just going to improve his boulder game and he keeps his lead dominance, since you just can't deny his lifelong lead experience and history.

competitive speed climbing is scary as hell for me. I remember doing it and ended up getting a 15s time on a 15m wall. I was nervous as hell

The mind blowing thing is: because speed is so different from real climbing, Adam has to go from beginner to olympian in under a year

@jamesbuckley6875

4 жыл бұрын

As do most of the climbers competing this year I reckon. Speed climbing is fairly niche.

@Murdog83

3 жыл бұрын

Speed climbing involves moving vertically upwards on holds using your arms and legs, etc. Doesn't that count as real climbing? Was Tomoa Narasaki not climbing when he found new beta on the route?

@catatoblob8598

3 жыл бұрын

@@Murdog83 I think it's like getting marathon athletes to do the hurdles. Sure, it's still technically running, and the athletes can probably rise to the challenge, and even bring crossdisciplinary insights to the table, but you would be depriving the audience of watching more exciting competitions between people that actually specialise in hurdles.

tank you adam for your training insights! one question.. what´s that app that you use for the videoanalyse?

You will smash it man...Im sure you will!

@adamondra if you want to gain a lot of explosiveness, work on plyometrics and power transfer. For sprinting a little more on the balls of your feet. Isometric workouts to increase Achilles tensile strength and power. Very cool I'm excited to see you compete

@MDClimbing

4 жыл бұрын

Plus hamstring and glute developer machine.

Nice, enjoy Spain ;)

Adam is just so dang flexible he doesn't have the elasticity for speed. While others get the benefit of the stretch-reflex, he's never stretched so he can't take advantage of that.

Allez Adam!

is the course for speed climbing always the same so that we can compare world record times with this situation?

More power to ya. Grats on staying motivated bro. Fk that speed climbing shit though...

When you’re so good on the wall your run looks unnatural

I wish I could help you finding the right exercices to develop power, the right technique and software to analyze your speed climbs. But I'm sure you're in good hands with Rishat as well. I'm a former pro-athlete on world cup level in speedskating. Feel free to reach out.

@MDClimbing

4 жыл бұрын

Most of Adam's training, which was not mentioned, is with 2x speed climbing World Record holder Libor Hroza (Czech).

Hády!

Rishat is good at speed.

Damn where are you going in Cataluña? Cool place with lots of natural and tricky climbing spots

Relax your face when you run, Adam! Your cheeks, forehead, lips, nose, all the skin, and bring all that focus to your legs and pumping your arms. You got this! *strong arm/leg emoji*

So much looking forward to see you perform at the Olympics! One question though: What's the difference between having the rope I front of you or taking it under the arm the back like some do?

@zulazfar

4 жыл бұрын

Last I recall, it's more of a preference thing. Some people find it annoying to move around if the rope is in front.

You should train locomotion moves on floor and quadriped animal run drills, "ido portal " is very good on motion, search as "locomotion ido portal" and "quadriped run", hope this helps can't risk you not qualifying 💪😎

Train deadlift for explosiveness of the legs. Deadlift also correlates well with sprinting speed.

@SonsOfDeForest

4 жыл бұрын

yea, i had to cringe from seeing him on leg press, and his bench form too! >_

@earlgrey2130

4 жыл бұрын

@@SonsOfDeForest thats bullshit.. deadlifts train hamstrings and lower back. Speed needs strong quads. Leg press is the correct exercise.

Adam Ondra is same character like Napoline Dynamite...🤔😉👌

Adam running is like trying to watch a turkey run 😅😅😅

@Adam, have you already talked about how speed climbing trainings affect YOUR climbing? 🤔 Specifically as the speed climbing training is more and more involved in your training? Thanks

What's the video app y’all use?

Adam might try to use superglue as a preventative to protect the nails.

The weirdest part of this video is to see Adam lift weights. just so funny;)

damn these dudes would be insane to train with

Cross training forces you to be aware of and recognize weaknesses you might not even knew you had.

Is someone able to recognize what wooly jacket he's wearing? For example at 00:13

I wonder how you balance gaining the necessary muscle for the explosive power and keeping your weight low enough for the disciplines, especially lead?

im aiming to get just as stong as you some day

#1

Plyometric training would be great for speed climbing. It's a great way to build power without adding to much excess muscle mass.

👌🇨🇿💪

All Libor Hroza gets is mentioned in the credits? Should have given him screen time demonstrating the real speed climbing training!

Hezký video. Jinak přijde mi, že ty běžecké rovinky jsou moc dlouhé na trénink rychlosti a výbušnosti. A ani v tréninku bych nestartoval 3,2,1, start, ale jen na tlesknutí nebo povel jako jako je na závodech.

I’ve never seen Adam run haha

Speed climbing seems like climbing but with everything that's good about climbing removed

damn. my way for training is doing max weight pull-ups and my friend's way of training is doing pull-ups with me on his back. you should try that with Rishat.

6:54 song?

Do you even bench, bro?

Dude that run looks like rocky balboa training

Give me a heart please mi a climber and you inspire me

Watching Adam run just looks so... wrong... like a fish trying to swim

Do you ever train at higher altitude to simulate less oxygen to the body vs. lower to sea level where there is more oxygen? Something something science?

Dear editor- you need a rocky 4 style montage

Can you imagine Adam walking into a gym and buff dudes thinking do you even lift brah And Adam does a 1 finger pull up haha

More like Rishat Khai BALLIN amirite

Really freaky watching such a long armed and slim man bench lmao.

Trening na rychlost je důležitá.

He acts like he's new to this, but Adam's been speed climbing 5.14s for years.

@bastouflette2552

4 жыл бұрын

What do you mean? His personal record was in Toulouse (2019) with 7.464 sec

@dummielp

4 жыл бұрын

@@bastouflette2552 I think he is referring to a climbing grading system used to grade sport climbing routes. 5.14 would be something like 8b+ to 9a

@bastouflette2552

4 жыл бұрын

@@dummielp oh thanks, i'm very not used to this grading system. It confuses me so much ;-)

@zzzzz2582

4 жыл бұрын

@@bastouflette2552 yeah what he means is that Adam is just naturally a very fast climber in "non-speed" but rather high difficulty climbs, compared to other elite climbers. Having said that: Whoooosh!

Watch the world record for speed climbing to see how to break the record. Just a thought *

it might actually help to get him a sprinting(running) coach to get higher efficiency as he is waisting a lot of power and movement because of low efficiency that could work to help his climbing legs

1:04 Toulouse or Hachioji?

@lionelbauduin3922

4 жыл бұрын

Owen Huang it’s Hachioji