The best kind of pops wave

I rode one from way outside Castles all the way to Kapahulu break wall on a big south ,, even the lifeguard chased me down shook my hand told me was longest wave he'd ever seen anyone ride since he's worked that tower ,, for sure the longest wave I've surfed in Waikiki and I'm in my 60s now it just kept going and going was only maybe waist high when Pau ,, but i guess back in the day when still had the rivers in Waikiki was kind of normal for Duke guys to have long waves like that ,, all i can say is open the Ala Wai